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Old 06-08-2014, 03:17 PM   #1
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MitchandEllen
Fridge on 12v

Hello All, we are planning to take the Que out for a spin after 2 years in the garage. All systems seem to be go except we can't get the fridge to run on 12v. We have tried all the suggestions in the manual (connected to car, key on, etc.) but luck. Any wisdom?
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Old 06-08-2014, 03:53 PM   #2
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They are real slow cooling off how long was it on?
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Old 06-08-2014, 04:16 PM   #3
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Thanks for your reply. The problem is that it won't turn on at all on the 12v. It runs and cools on propane and house current.
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Old 06-08-2014, 04:33 PM   #4
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Does anything else run on 12 Volt? Is the battery turned on? The Que should have a battery disconnect switch somewhere?
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Old 06-08-2014, 08:15 PM   #5
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Everything else is working. Battery disconnect is off. It's a mystery;-(
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Old 06-09-2014, 05:18 AM   #6
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They are pretty big energy hogs on 12 volts some where there is a fuse for the 12 volt side of the fridge. What module is the fridge?
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Old 06-09-2014, 05:32 AM   #7
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Do you have a full charge on the battery???? Ours would not always work if the battery was low.
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Old 06-09-2014, 06:30 AM   #8
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We do have a brand new fully-charged battery. That's what makes this such a puzzle. Everything else is working on battery but when we switch the fridge to 12v the indicator light does not come on and the fridge doesn't run. We have checked the connections and everything seems okay there. Maybe it is the switch? Not sure how to check that.
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Old 06-09-2014, 10:27 AM   #9
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If the indicator light does not come on then I would ask the same question as mainah, where is the 12 volt fuse? If the fridge has a 12 volt element, I suspect it would be a different and much higher current fuse than the 12 volts for the control board. A 12 volt fridge really gulps a lot of curent and just barely cools.

A model number would help.
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Old 06-09-2014, 02:12 PM   #10
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Thanks for the responses. Dometic model # 7401, part # 00921086520. We have reached the 12 volt lines to the back of the fridge and have 12 volts to that point. 15 amp fuse to the fridge is OK. We have hooked up the running car to the trailer and have 12 volts from the car to the trailer in addition to the fully charged 12 volt on board trailer battery. Cutoff switch I installed is in the on position. Very difficult to reach the control switches without removing the fridge. Wiggling wires and looking for loose connections has produced no changes. Is there a way to check the function switch on the front without removing the unit? Any suggestions helpful. Thanks
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:01 PM   #11
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This has been an interesting search. Dometic doesn't want to associate RM7401 with 921086520. (drop the leading zeros) I can find 7400 with 921086520 and 7401 with several other sub models.

Some things common to all are that the DC element draws 11 amps / 130 watts. The only reason to have the vehicle hooked up and running is because the current drain would deplete the battery quickly but if you have shore power and a converter that should handle it while parked. There is a terminal strip on the back of the fridge, A and B are the 12 volt connections for the heater element and should be protected by a 16 amp fuse and have #4 or #6 wire from the battery. Terminals C and D are 12 volts to the electronics and protected by a smaller fuse. It seems that terminals A and B go up to the selector switch directly but another place hints that the selector switch operates a relay to provide the current to the 12 volt element. I can't seem to find how to get to that selector switch on the top left of that fridge.

I will keep looking. .....
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Old 06-10-2014, 07:45 AM   #12
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This can get pretty complex there is a terminal block for the 12 volt wiring with a red wire and next to it a white and brown landed on the same terminals with the 12 volt switch on they should be 12 volt between the red and the brown/white how ever that does not mean it will work because the red wire goes to the control module most likely controlled by a temp sensor that is part of the module. the only real way to check would be to see if there was 12 volts at the heating element. At the element both wires should be brown if there is power there the element is toes up. If there is not my guess is going to be the control module it most likely would explain why the light in not on.
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:25 AM   #13
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Fridge on 12v

Thanks to Gene and Mainah,
Gene, I was working on the numbers from the manual. The plate inside the fridge has model 7401L ??? I think the 7400 is a series number with commonalities to several models. Last night I left 120 plugged in and tried to run fridge on battery with the on board charger keeping the battery full. No luck. I started calling local repair shops and one suggested I not worry about it and just use 120 or propane. One place was 1 1/2 months out for this type of repair! The major problem is not being able to see or work on the back of the unit in its cramped space under a counter at the back if the trailer. I know I have 12 volts from the battery and since all other indicator lights work, I suspect a bad switch or possibly a burned out element. The relay mentioned, I believe, is the one in the tow vehicle which is controlled by the ignition so that power is not drained from the tow vehicle without the ignition being on. Our vehicle does this. We'll keep working on the problem, but we can live without the 12 volt system until we can find a repair shop that can look at it.
Thanks again for all replies.
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:43 AM   #14
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I'd live without it. Most newer units come with 120/propane. I travel with propane on but you do have to shut propane off if going through tunnels. refrigerators will stay cold a long time.
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