Sunline RV Forum
Sunline User Photos

Go Back   Sunline Coach Owner's Club > Sunline Club Community Forums > Sunline Community
Click Here to Login

Join Sunline Club Forums Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-03-2010, 10:24 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Drake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 210
SUN #1340
Drake is an unknown quantity at this point
Battery vs no battery

So, since my T3200 is on a permanent site with access to 120 volts, do I even need a coach battery ?

Sorry group if this is a dumb question...I'm a newbie!
__________________

__________________
'88 T3200
Permanently situated in Charlotte County VA
Drake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2010, 05:20 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Steve Collins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 1,846
SUN #264
Steve Collins is an unknown quantity at this point
Unless your trailer has been modified, you still have a bunch of 12vdc fixtures like the interior lighting, stove vent fan, am/fm radio, exterior scare light. Unless it is a really old model, the fridge needs 12vdc for its control circuits.

Some of the older converters don't work well unless they are connected to a battery which means over time that if you don't have a battery in the system, you may cook the converter. And you may not be delivering a decent 12vdc to the fixtures.

If it were my unit, I'd always have a battery installed and hooked up. That way, there'd still be power if the 120vac is down and you'd be caring for the converter.

Now, because you are permanently sited, IMHO, there is no need for an expensive, top of the line marine/rv deep cycle battery. I am not sure you'd even need a deep cycle battery which would open up a host of inexpensive options.
__________________

__________________

'12 F250 4x4 Super Duty PowerStroke 6.7 diesel
2011 to present: '11 Cougar 326MKS
1999 to 2011: '99 Sunline T-2453
SUN264 * Amateur Radio kd2iat monitoring 146.52
Steve Collins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2010, 08:33 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Drake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 210
SUN #1340
Drake is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks Steve....I can always depend on you!
__________________
'88 T3200
Permanently situated in Charlotte County VA
Drake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2010, 09:11 AM   #4
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 9,908
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Hi Drake

With the age of your system and making an assumption that the converter is an original, like Steve stated, the older converters many of them of that era needed the battery to act as a large capacitor in the system to make the converter create stable 12 VDC. They have worked erratic without the battery to hold it stable.

And making some assumptions that your camper is still wired as original about the only thing that will work direct on 120VAC is the wall outlets, and the microwave if it has one. The fridge and the AC unit still used 12 VDC for the control boards even on a brand new one. The HW heater, well yours may be total gas operation I do not know with out looking up a model # on one that old. The furnace is 12 VDC so if you want heat, you need 12 volts.

So some how you have to create stable 12 VDC to make the rest of the camper to work. By adding a battery to your existing converter it will take care of the problem back to the original setup.

However, caution, the older converters where not always the best battery maintainers. While they will charge they do not maintain well when plugged in 24/7 non stop for months on end. Many have been known to cook a battery to death connected 24/7 for weeks straight as there is no float charge mode in them. They stay stuck at the 13.65 volts area and keep pumping that higher voltage into the battery. If your where using the camper like a normal hook and up go once a week or once a month camper the system is unplugged and odds are better it is not cooking your battery to death.

There are options. First is what in the world converter do you have and what voltage is it putting out once the battery reaches 100% state of charge? Do you have a volt meter?

Normal charge is in 13.65 volts DC area. Just put the volt meter on the battery terminals when the converter is plugged into shore power. It can and will takes a day or 2 to reach 100% full charge. So seeing 13.65 volts for 2 days is not a problem. However on day 3 an 4 it should be dropping down to 13.25 volts. If it does not, odds are yours does not have a trickle mode or float mode. If you have gone a week and the thing still not drop to 13.25 well then your going to cook the battery to death over a long time period as you boil out the battery.

Now if it does drop to 13.25 then well what amperage is it at? This gets a little more tricky to sort out if it is going into float mode. You need an amp meter and need to know what milliamps of current it is sending the battery. If you have an amp meter and want to drill this deep then let talk some more.

OR do this.

Install a new higher end power converter like the Progressive Dynamics brand. They can work stable with no battery. Cost is like $200. bit expensive in your case and a ton of overkill but it will work.

OR Buy a Battery Minder Plus that maintains and conditions the battery and will not kill it.

BatteryMINDer® Plus 12 Volt 1.33 Amp Charger-Maintainer-Conditioner (Desulfator) | All | Battery Chargers by BatteryMINDers.com

These are float chargers complete with a desulfation mode. A quick search on the web for that model and make turns them up for $40. Here is one fast hit, There are more places that sell them. Amazon.com: VDC Electronics BatteryMINDer Charger, Maintainer, Desulphator - 1.3 Amp, 12 Volt, Model# 12117: Automotive

So if you go this route heads up. Before plugging the Battery Minder in attached to the battery you have to unhook the converter from suppling power to the battery. Or else you have 2 charging sources going into the same battery and may toast the Battery minder. There are a few ways to do this.

  • Unhook the battery cable. A pain in the neck but works.
  • Install a disconnect switch on the battery wire near the battery to simply disconnect the battery.
  • Shut off the circuit breaker to the converter if you still want 120 VAC in the camper.
  • Pull the shore line plug and no 120AC to the camper.

The goal is, when you leave the camper to go back home, let the battery minder maintain the battery. It will be in top shape and last many many years. Will not boil out the battery, will desulfate it and it will be at 100% state of charge when you come back a week, month or year later. When you come to camp and start using a lot of 12 DC, unhook the battery minder and run the converter. No worries if you just walk in and turn on a light or 2 but running the furnace and other high usage items it cannot keep up. It is only a 1.3amp charger.

For battery choices, Wal-Mart has a deep cycle battery made by Johnson Controls most times for like $70. Or you can get the higher grade ones if you want. They low end ones have 1 year warranty. While a starter battery will work a deep cycle adds better value over the long haul in a camper situation.

Say you are at the CG and the power goes out. The deep cycle can last all weekend if you not using a lot of high power all the time. It may get drained to 40% state of charge. Then recharge it back and life is good.

The starter battery does not like those deep discharges as much. Both will work in your case but you many find it is only $10 to $20 difference between a Group 24 deep cycle and a starter battery. If you have an older starter battery just laying around, then by all means use it until it dies. Take the old one out of your truck, put a new one in the truck and then the old one on the camper. The Battery Minder Plus will bring it back to life as good as it is going to be.

Oh and the dumb question newbie thing. No worries, there are no dumb questions on Sunline Owners Club and we encourage new members. So the only foolish question is the one no one asks. Ask away.

Good luck

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2010, 11:45 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Drake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 210
SUN #1340
Drake is an unknown quantity at this point
JohnB,

Thanks you so much for the extremely thorough reply. I hang on to the words of you experienced guys and gals.

The converter is the 3240. manufactured by BW Mfg. Inc. According to the literature
(see "Files" section of this forum if/when my posting gets approved) this unit is equipped with "option C" which contains an automatic battery charger which senses the battery charge and regulates the charging of the battery accordingly. Don't know about charging voltage, but I do know it's rated at 40 amps.

We will be using the camper on occasional weekends...and the camper will be unplugged while we are away.

Original fridge is dead and I am replacing it with an all electric (120v) one.
Water heater is all lp gas.
Don't think we'll be using the furnace.
A/C is original...w/ r-12 refrigerant and works.

Thanks so much!!!
__________________
'88 T3200
Permanently situated in Charlotte County VA
Drake is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Battery sparks jonsun Repairs and Maintenance 4 08-11-2010 06:37 PM
Battery precorguy Modifications 4 05-27-2010 08:09 PM
Battery Charger Mr Tweety Sunline Community 22 06-10-2009 10:22 PM
Battery rmstack Sunline Travel Trailers 5 07-31-2008 07:22 PM
Furnace and battery? janetpowell Sunline Travel Trailers 16 03-31-2008 11:56 AM



Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sunline RV or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:39 PM.