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Old 11-28-2017, 11:03 AM   #1
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Unhappy Moving a camper in your yard

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Originally Posted by Sunline Fan View Post
... when I move my '97 around the yard with the lawn tractor, ...
Wait. What?

I'mma need some deets, here unless there's a thread you can link me to.

How big/what kind of 'lawn tractor' do you use to move that camper.
How flat is the yard?
Can it pull up a grade?

I need answers, dang it!
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Old 11-28-2017, 11:32 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digmenow View Post
Wait. What?

I'mma need some deets, here unless there's a thread you can link me to.

How big/what kind of 'lawn tractor' do you use to move that camper.
How flat is the yard?
Can it pull up a grade?

I need answers, dang it!
Dig,

I have used my Ford 3600 diesel (~ 42hp) to my my prior T2499 around the yard. Moving it was not a problem. Seeing around the sides... well I needed some serious mirrors with extensions. An 8 foot wide camper with a tractor close coupled all one sees is the big Sunline decal on the front....

This link will take you to an old thread on the size of the tractor. Tractor Swap

SunLine Fan's I think was a little smaller.

That said, years ago I did move a mobile home from one farm to the next with our Leland tractor (70 hp diesel). The tires were about 5 1/2 ft tall on the back and you were for sure up higher. Still seeing to make turns on a 55 foot long mobile home was the same issue. Only had to move it about 1,000 feet down the road and then up the mega hill at our farm to settle it in where it was setup for migrant worker housing.

Happy yard towing!

John
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Old 11-28-2017, 01:19 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digmenow View Post
Wait. What?

I'mma need some deets, here unless there's a thread you can link me to.

How big/what kind of 'lawn tractor' do you use to move that camper.
How flat is the yard?
Can it pull up a grade?

I need answers, dang it!
Nothing special, just an old John Deere with a 14 hp Kawasaki and hydrostatic trans. Pump up the rear tires beforehand, good to go. I do move it on pretty level ground, but I do have a slight incline to climb, plus the incline onto the parking pad for the trailer itself. My old 2251 and 2363 handled them with ease, the 2653 is much more of a struggle and about at the max I'd consider for it.

The tractor moves it pretty well, and seems to stop it pretty well for the slow speeds I go at. Unless I sink the forward pedal to the floor quickly, the front tires never really lift off the ground, but that's because the hitch point is nearly over the axle. To climb the incline, I do that when backing the trailer in, I have to have the engine revved up fully, and even then it can be a struggle. Best to get a little running start.

Since the turn onto my parking pad is kinda tight, the tractor won't move it if I'm trying to back up and tweak the tandems too much while going up the incline. It just bogs down. I take it gently and we're good.

I have another parking pad next to my house, for cars to pull into, that's about 30' wide. I like to wiggle the trailer in there at times so I can enjoy it in the yard, and work on it. There's literally no way for a truck or car to put it there, the tractor is it. Wiggle the front tires in the neighbor's flower bed a little and I can get it in there.

As John said, the biggest problem is seeing around it. I don't have extension mirrors, a lot of it is just moving it from experience and hoping for the best. I do stop and get off to check VERY often, especially when putting it by the house. I have a light post and my well head behind where I'm backing in, and I certainly don't want to hit either of those.

My biggest problem with moving it this way is the tongue jack. I'm replacing the rear tires soon, but the old ones would leak a bit. Even with filling them up, the trailer still sinks them down a lot, and then the jack, fully retracted, sometimes digs into the grass as I go. I'll get the trailer off the grass, only to look back and see a 10' strip of grass torn up.
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Old 11-28-2017, 01:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Dig,

I have used my Ford 3600 diesel (~ 42hp) ...

Happy yard towing!

John




Whoa! If I need something like THAT, I'm gonna need a bigger parking pad!



Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan View Post
Nothing special, just an old John Deere with a 14 hp Kawasaki and hydrostatic trans. Pump up the rear tires beforehand, good to go. I do move it on pretty level ground, but I do have a slight incline to climb, plus the incline onto the parking pad for the trailer itself. My old 2251 and 2363 handled them with ease, the 2653 is much more of a struggle and about at the max I'd consider for it.

The tractor moves it pretty well, and seems to stop it pretty well for the slow speeds I go at. Unless I sink the forward pedal to the floor quickly, the front tires never really lift off the ground, but that's because the hitch point is nearly over the axle. To climb the incline, I do that when backing the trailer in, I have to have the engine revved up fully, and even then it can be a struggle. Best to get a little running start.

Since the turn onto my parking pad is kinda tight, the tractor won't move it if I'm trying to back up and tweak the tandems too much while going up the incline. It just bogs down. I take it gently and we're good.

I have another parking pad next to my house, for cars to pull into, that's about 30' wide. I like to wiggle the trailer in there at times so I can enjoy it in the yard, and work on it. There's literally no way for a truck or car to put it there, the tractor is it. Wiggle the front tires in the neighbor's flower bed a little and I can get it in there.

As John said, the biggest problem is seeing around it. I don't have extension mirrors, a lot of it is just moving it from experience and hoping for the best. I do stop and get off to check VERY often, especially when putting it by the house. I have a light post and my well head behind where I'm backing in, and I certainly don't want to hit either of those.

My biggest problem with moving it this way is the tongue jack. I'm replacing the rear tires soon, but the old ones would leak a bit. Even with filling them up, the trailer still sinks them down a lot, and then the jack, fully retracted, sometimes digs into the grass as I go. I'll get the trailer off the grass, only to look back and see a 10' strip of grass torn up.
"running start"...I LOLed.

I'd be interested in a picture of how you hook it up to tow. I have a quarter acre yard and I used a Sears riding mower years ago but it was old when I got it and when it died, I went back to pushing a mower. Takes about an hour on an easy day, longer if the grass is tall and wet.

Given that I am a mid sexagenarian, I had recently given some thought to getting another rider.

Something like this would move my 1950? Can't beat the price at a C-note and if it cuts the grass, then bonus!

Powr Kraft lawn mower 18 horsepower - 42" cut - 2 cylinder engine ~ automatic transmission ~ hydrostatic drive ~ powered by Briggs & Stratton Industrial/Commercial ~ terrific running condition







BTW, Hundredth post. I'm officially a senior member. That was quick.
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Old 11-28-2017, 02:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digmenow View Post
I'd be interested in a picture of how you hook it up to tow. I have a quarter acre yard and I used a Sears riding mower years ago but it was old when I got it and when it died, I went back to pushing a mower. Takes about an hour on an easy day, longer if the grass is tall and wet.
I don't have any pics of the hitch itself, but it's nothing special. It's just the steel plate that came on the back of the tractor from the factory, with a hitch ball mounted in it. In fact, it's just a 2" one that I pull my yard trailer around with, but it doesn't bounce enough to pop off with the weight. I can use the tongue jack with manual crank handle, or sometimes I use a floor jack to get it off the tractor, because I'll adjust the trailer forward/back a little with that. You can see the white floor jack handle in the attached picture.

The other difficult part with moving with a tractor is the propane tanks. The tire likes to rub with the cover, so you can't turn very tight. It takes patience lol.

Sorry for the trailer looking so dirty (and lacking a propane tank cover) in the picture, it was from right after I bought it last year. It sure has come a long way in appearance since!
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File Type: jpg IMG_6020.jpg (126.1 KB, 8 views)
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Old 11-28-2017, 03:57 PM   #6
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We might have to move some of these off topic posts to the Tow Vehicle section.
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Old 11-28-2017, 04:44 PM   #7
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Hmmm.....I’ve got a little John Deere, rear engine riding mower with a 13 hp Briggs and Stratton. Would love to bring my camper into the driveway like a pull through. I’ll have to test it out.

Sorry for the hijack.
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digmenow View Post

I'd be interested in a picture of how you hook it up to tow.

Something like this would move my 1950? Can't beat the price at a C-note and if it cuts the grass, then bonus!

Hi Dig,

On the hitch question, there are a few obstacles to over come.

1. Your 2003 T-1950 when loaded could have a 500# maybe a 550# tongue weight. The lawn tractor you linked appears to have the thinner sheet metal frames. I would estimate 1/8" thick at the rear trailer hitch area but that is something to check. That frame most likely would not be up to the task of holding the loaded TW with any kind of a bounce along the way. The rear axle in that particular tractor may not like it either.

2. Height off the ground. The camper has a tongue jack that hangs down. When raised that is the lowest drag point. When hitched to the lawn tractor the ball needs to be high enough so the jack does not drag. This detail needs to get worked through on how to over come it.

3. Can the lawn tractor handle the weight. This is an unknown from the one your looking at. You would need to do some research on this, the tires may be able to handle it with enough pressure and rating.

If you find a garden tractor they are often built heavier then a declared lawn mower. Again it needs to be specific and up to the task but many are made to handle rear mounted roto tillers, small front end loaders and other heavy attachments.

I have a John Deere 445 garden tractor I use for lawn mowing. This one has small front end loader that is made for it. And it weighs 580# by itself and can lift 500# so the tractor can handle the combined weight at least up to that. (I do not have the loader, but the tractor is setup for it) The frame on the back where the tow hitch is 1/4" steel plate. The cost of this little tractor reflects what it is made from. While I have not moved a camper with it, I have loaded and moved my large field mower with it. The hitch load is in the 500# area. The hitch on the front of the mower allowed me to tilt it up so I did not bottom out. It is all I would want to move with it and your not going to go anywhere quick. Here is a pic loading the mower in the transport position on my tilt bed trailer. My larger tractor was at our other property waiting to unload it.



I don't know how far you are wanting to move your camper an across solid or soft ground, but they do make trailer dolly's. I made one of these on a 2.5 ton rated pallet jack but this is only a hard surface setup

I have never used one of these, just seem them.

https://www.trailervalet.com/

Sold here https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=Trailer+Valet

Another one Power Caster Inc | The Original Trailer Mover | Temple City 800-773-3833

Another one https://parkit360.ca/

The last one seems better for softer surfaces. And I'm sure there are more brands out there. I would say go for a heavier rated unit if you can if your considering these.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digmenow View Post
We might have to move some of these off topic posts to the Tow Vehicle section.
Good suggestion! Done
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Old 11-29-2017, 04:28 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Hi Dig,

On the hitch question, there are a few obstacles to over come.

1. Your 2003 T-1950 when loaded could have a 500# maybe a 550# tongue weight. The lawn tractor you linked appears to have the thinner sheet metal frames. I would estimate 1/8" thick at the rear trailer hitch area but that is something to check. That frame most likely would not be up to the task of holding the loaded TW with any kind of a bounce along the way. The rear axle in that particular tractor may not like it either.

2. Height off the ground. The camper has a tongue jack that hangs down. When raised that is the lowest drag point. When hitched to the lawn tractor the ball needs to be high enough so the jack does not drag. This detail needs to get worked through on how to over come it.

3. Can the lawn tractor handle the weight. This is an unknown from the one your looking at. You would need to do some research on this, the tires may be able to handle it with enough pressure and rating.

If you find a garden tractor they are often built heavier then a declared lawn mower. Again it needs to be specific and up to the task but many are made to handle rear mounted roto tillers, small front end loaders and other heavy attachments.

I have a John Deere 425 garden tractor I use for lawn mowing. This one has small front end loader that is made for it. And it weighs 580# by itself and can lift 500# so the tractor can handle the combined weight at least up to that. (I do not have the loader, but the tractor is setup for it) The frame on the back where the tow hitch is 1/4" steel plate. The cost of this little tractor reflects what it is made from. While I have not moved a camper with it, I have loaded and moved my large field move with it. The hitch load is in the 500# area. The hitch on the front of the mower allowed me to tilt it up so I did not bottom out. It is all I would want to move with it and your not going to go anywhere quick. Here is a pic loading the mower in the transport position on my tilt bed trailer. My larger tractor was at our other property waiting to unload it.



I don't know how far you are wanting to move your camper an across solid or soft ground, but they do make trailer dolly's. I made one of these on a 2.5 ton rated pallet jack but this is only a hard surface setup

I have never used one of these, just seem them.

https://www.trailervalet.com/

Sold here https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=Trailer+Valet

Another one Power Caster Inc | The Original Trailer Mover | Temple City 800-773-3833

Another one https://parkit360.ca/

The last one seems better for softer surfaces. And I'm sure there are more brands out there. I would say go for a heavier rated unit if you can if your considering these.

Hope this helps

John
The attachment point on Jon's JD was what I was hoping to see so that I could make a better decision as to what I would need, etc.

The distance from where the camper is parked on its concrete pad to where I would like it to be to hook to the TV is a bit over 100 feet and uphill, over grass.



The Ranger is long gone as are all of the bushes beside it, the convertible is now parked in the Ranger's spot and the Sunline is in the convertible's spot. You can see the double gate and the driveway at the top of the yard.

I looked into those tow dollies but anything that has a comma in the price tag is a bit too extravagant.

That first one, however, looked really interesting (albeit kind of slow and a workout without using the power drill attachment) at under $600! I could tow the 1950 to the edge of the driveway, unhook it and use the dolly to maneuver around the steps, greatly decreasing the damage caused by moving it in and out. My greatest fear is that I will come home one day to find a newly erected fence along the edge of the driveway, forever trapping the camper in the back yard.

https://youtu.be/zzW6J8CLYEw

Again, much like Jon's dilemma with the flower bed, I have a 10 foot wide driveway that is the borderline to the house next door but there's a metal staircase that takes up 3 feet, requiring me to cheat over into the neighbor's yard to swing around it. The TV makes it quite the mess on damp days.



The white blob in front of the wagon is actually the convertible, under a car cover, down at the bottom of the yard.
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Old 11-29-2017, 06:28 AM   #11
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Quote:
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1. Your 2003 T-1950 when loaded could have a 500# maybe a 550# tongue weight. The lawn tractor you linked appears to have the thinner sheet metal frames. I would estimate 1/8" thick at the rear trailer hitch area but that is something to check. That frame most likely would not be up to the task of holding the loaded TW with any kind of a bounce along the way. The rear axle in that particular tractor may not like it either.
Agreed, that one appears to have a thinner frame. I think mine is around 1/8" thick, but I will check and try to take a picture tonight. It does appear to have bent down a little bit now after moving the 2653 around, but not bad.

Quote:
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2. Height off the ground. The camper has a tongue jack that hangs down. When raised that is the lowest drag point. When hitched to the lawn tractor the ball needs to be high enough so the jack does not drag. This detail needs to get worked through on how to over come it.
Yeah, and making sure the tires are filled up enough is what does it for me. But other brand tractors may have lower hitch points. I suspect mine were losing pressure when I put the trailer on it, which is what caused the jack to dig in. That said, this tire pressure is a little too much for mowing, but they always let enough out on their own afterwards lol. My rear tires are still original and have developed quite a few dry rot cracks in them over the last couple years. It wasn't bad until I went to get on it to mow a couple days ago and one tire was just about flat, so I ordered two rear tires for it from TSC. I could have gotten a 2 ply in store, but they had a 4 ply option available to order, so I went ahead and ordered that since I do put so much weight on them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
If you find a garden tractor they are often built heavier then a declared lawn mower. Again it needs to be specific and up to the task but many are made to handle rear mounted roto tillers, small front end loaders and other heavy attachments.

I have a John Deere 425 garden tractor I use for lawn mowing. This one has small front end loader that is made for it. And it weighs 580# by itself and can lift 500# so the tractor can handle the combined weight at least up to that. (I do not have the loader, but the tractor is setup for it) The frame on the back where the tow hitch is 1/4" steel plate. The cost of this little tractor reflects what it is made from. While I have not moved a camper with it, I have loaded and moved my large field move with it. The hitch load is in the 500# area. The hitch on the front of the mower allowed me to tilt it up so I did not bottom out. It is all I would want to move with it and your not going to go anywhere quick. Here is a pic loading the mower in the transport position on my tilt bed trailer. My larger tractor was at our other property waiting to unload it.
I've seen those garden tractors come up used, and they do carry a small price premium, but you certainly get what you pay for. Mine is definitely not, it's just a regular ole lawn tractor that certainly is overloaded. They make the mower, bagger, front plow, and front snowblower for mine, but the snowblower is single stage and manual/belt driven, so it doesn't use hydraulics.

I will probably look for a larger tractor eventually when this one quits, but when I can find parts tractors of these on CL for $100-200, it won't make sense to buy a new one when it would be really cheap to keep this one going. Most parts are available new still, which I try to do, but I fear larger things like the hydrostatic unit may be harder to find. Plus, at that point, buying new of something that large is hard to justify not just getting a new tractor.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 11-29-2017, 09:04 AM   #12
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If you are moving a camper with a lawn tractor you are lucky. No soft ground no grass and definitely no hills! One big thing to think about with a lawn tractor is going down hill! Even a small camper out weights the lawn tractor by a factor of 10. One more thing to think about with a lawn tractor is the hydrostatic transmission they were not built to haul a great deal of weight. A farm tractor is a much better choice.
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Old 11-29-2017, 09:43 AM   #13
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One more thing to think about with a lawn tractor is the hydrostatic transmission they were not built to haul a great deal of weight. A farm tractor is a much better choice.
This is a good point. Hydrostatic itself isn't bad, just the capacity of this specific one. This is a perfect case of just because you can, you shouldn't. It would be like towing your 17' trailer with a compact SUV on the highway. Just because it could get it up to speed doesn't mean you should tow it.

in this case, there's a lot less risk of injury than underpowered towing on the highway. I can just jump off the tractor and exit stage right, as soon as the trailer were to hit any kind of grass or uneven pavement, the jack will stop it. It's literally 1" or less from the ground most of the time.
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1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
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Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 11-29-2017, 03:06 PM   #14
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I'm too old to take chances, takes me too long to heal! My tractor out weights my camper by a good thousand pounds I'm OK with that.
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