water heater problems

[harbortj]

first, the pilot won't stay lit. I can relight it but it then dies hours later.
2nd, the knob is mushy. I bought this in the spring and found that if you put is right on "pilot" it will not light. you have to turn it a little to the left. When I turned it to "on" I could feel a definite click besides seeing it at the on position. Now, it seems that there is no click, just mush.

is it me, was there a definite catch at the on position or is it by eyesight only.

I ask because of the pilot issue and don't know whether to buy a whole control valve, or if I just need to adjust or replace the pilot electrode thingy.

thanks.

Tim

[awellis3]

I, too, am new to all this and have found that there are folks on this forum who are very knowledgeable and helpful. However, it really helps to get responses from the experts if you supply make, model and year when asking tech questions.

Teach

[Poppy & Nana]

Wright & Penny.....I'm sure some of the "experts" will be posting soon BUT a bunch of us where at the Western NY M&G and having too much fun to get on line......Wright & Penny are right "the gurus" will need a make and model of your water heater......

Help will be on its way soon! Weekends are not the greatest time to post as a lot of us our out enjoying are Sunlines.

[Gene]

Originally Posted by harbortj

.... don't know whether to buy a whole control valve, or if I just need to adjust or replace the pilot electrode thingy.
...

Tim,
I can't give you a real good answer as I have a DSI water heater, no pilot light but maybe I can get you started untill better minds prevail.

First, since it is a Sunline it may be safe to assume (dangerous word!) that it is an Atwood and most of them are similar. Before replacing anything you could try cleaning the gas jet(s) and make sure the pilot you get has a good flame. Next make sure the electrode thingy is over the flame and is getting heated, that tells the control board that there is a flame. I have heard that sometimes if there are bug nests in the main heat path the delay in igniting the main jet causes a "puff" (or worse) that can blow out the pilot light. Cleaning and blowing everything out with an air blast from a compressor, if you have one, may help.

Gene

[clueless campers]

Spiders apparently like propane and their fine web can block the gas line openings (as we found out last year). When winterizing last year, I put a dryer sheet in every storage compartment. I opened the outside access to water heater and fridge and tucked a sheet in those areas too. I used a cheap store brand and in the spring, there weren't any spiders or bugs! Just make sure to remove the sheets before lighting the water heater and turning the fridge on.

[harbortj]

thanks all.

it is a 95, 1700. and yes, atwood. checked for spiders and webs. I didn't give the details as most information is about spiders and webs and electrodes so I wasn't thinking about brands. But my mistake, I should have tho't.

My problem may well be the electrode and or other issues. I think I can overcome those with little work or expense. It has lit and stayed lit for over 24 hours then die within 1 the next. This went on randomly for days.

the real bugger here is the dial. I have never had it light when turned to "pilot". finally found that about 5-10 degrees left made the pilot element light. But I "think' I used to feel a catch when turned back to on. Almost like you could turn it from pilot to "on" in the dark and feel it click into place. that is gone now. I have looked all over to see if someone has repaired or rebuilt the controller. I don't mind spending the money if it is the best/cheapest solution but didn't want to spend 80 bucks if an hour or 2 would fix it just as well.

Thanks again, I will go look at the electrode and go from there.