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Old 08-10-2013, 09:51 PM   #1
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Sunline Solaris T-225l Brakes?

Hello Everyone, I am new to this forum And new to owning a travel trailer. I just bought a 1995 Sunline Solaris t-225l on Friday. Its a 22 foot TT with tandem axels. My main concern is the drum breaks on the trailer. I do not have an electric break controller yet, as I did'nt realize I should have one never owning a trailer. I will be buying one tomorrow and most likely installing it myself since I know exactly where it is supposed to plug in at under the dash board. but my trailer is a 1995 and I have a huge growing concern about the drum breaks on the trailer. No i have not confirmed they work or do not work. But what I do know is that Sinline is out of business and at the same time realize most f the parts are widely available from other manufactures or ebay for some of the OEM stuff. But what about the breaks? I have seen from reading on this website that at least one guy could not get the break parts he needed and had to resort to changing the entire axels on his trailer so that he could have working breaks again... Could someone please lead me in the right direction? I have'nt the slightest idea on how to figure out what break shoes (part #)

I would'nt even need to purchase in the event that I would need to do any break work on the trailer. I do think that getting the electronic break controller installed will be my first step as it will be the only way to even check the breaks. but what if the breaks need replacement parts? or what about if the trailer will need them in the future? Surely everyone is not changing their axels when their breaks are finally shot. Is their anything that anyone cal tell me about the breaks and parts availability for a 1995 that could make me feel better about my trailer purchase? Its really a very nice 1995. it's seriously like new with exception on the decals on the outside, and the fact that it needs a good exterior scrubbing. Am I worried for no reason? or should I be really worried? I think that tommorow I will remove each wheel and look at the breaks to see what is left. And hope to see a reply soon as well. Thanks in advance for all the great info that will most likely be sent my way as I can see this website has alot of helpful people. Yeah, I'm a trailer noob for sure, and scared about the breaks not checking out. OH, also I noticed that my break drums are bright red and not all rusty like most break drums that I see on vehicles. Fingers crossed and hoping that maybe they had been serviced in the past.
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:10 AM   #2
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Mine's a 1990 the brake shoes are original there are many sellers of brake parts you probably have Dexter axles. If the camper battery is hooked up and charged you can pull the small cable that attaches to the little switch box on the tong and it should lock up the trailer brakes even without being connected to the TV. I recently replaced all of my brake magnets (two were bad) and other then having a midyear design change I had no problem finding parts. If you are new to the camper I would be a real good ideal to repack the wheel bearings any way and that would be a good time to have a look at the brakes. The lining on the brake shoes are thin brand new so don't panic if they look worn out they most likely are not.
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:19 AM   #3
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I wouldn't panic yet. Brakes are usually not big deal to replace on a TT. You can buy kits that replace everything new from the backing plate out. There is usually a tag on the center of the axle indicating the manufacture and axle type (weight). Good chance it's a Dexter. Then just measure up the drum diameter and buy a kit. Of course you may get under there and find the drums and shoes all look good and you need nothing.

I needed brakes on my cargo trailer and bought two kits on ebay and now everything is new. There are many sources.

2 Trailer 3500 lb Axle 10" x 2 25" Electric Brakes Dexter Free Shipping | eBay
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:41 PM   #4
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Ok Guys! I had a chance to pull off the wheels on the drivers side of the Trailer today and I have the 10 X 2 1/4 Drum and pad set up. And I could'nt be happier! honestly it made my day. I also installed a Prodigy P2 Electronic brake controller with digital read out. And connected up the trailer and went for a couple test drives. I can feel the brakes activating and pulling the trailer back. Its like a different sensatin of force than when just driving the truck with no brakes. subtle as it is, I can feel the difference. especially after pulling it 3 hours to my house with out electronic brakes hooked up. Honestly like I said, I didnt realize I should had used them, I was urged by a few people to do it asap. So its all done. But i have noticed that fron time to time, The brake controller seems to lose connection/Communication with the Brake system and the read out says .Nc. which means not connected. Could the brake controller be cycling the info and refreshing it back out? Or Could it be a brake magnet is not fully making contact and sending out a error? because even if it says .Nc. on the read out, I can still feel the brakes enganing and pulling the trailer back. and it seems to really kick in if i'm going downhill or have some speed. The directions did say to mount it flat. do they have mercury switches in it to engage the brakes or something? Maybe its just a magnet. Anyhow I am now very happy with my purchase. and calmed down, It was just the horror of seeing some of the people have to change their axels. wow! Oh... Is their supposed to be some kind of emergency brake on my trailer that quick releases incase the trailer disconnects during an accident? a Barman? I do think I need one of those yet. I am also considering a Weight distribution hitch and stabalizer bars. Any opinions? I tow with a 2004 Yukon 4X4 Slt. It pulls fine. But I suppose I could use it for my Enclosed work trailer 6 X 14 as well. And again, Thanks so much for the replys guys. I was worried all night and it was the first thing i thought about when I woke up this morning.
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Old 08-12-2013, 06:23 PM   #5
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I would jack up one side at a time pull the emergency break away pin turn each wheel it should move a bit and then lock up. jack up the other side and try the same thing make sure they all lock up. A bad magnet can throw a NC code. The magnets make no electrical contact with the brake drums until they are worn out. Most of the better controllers have an deceleration sensor I don't think any thing uses mercury any more. You are lucky you can buy the entire brake assembly as a unit it unbolts from the axle my T1700 is welded to the axle I have to replace individual parts.
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:38 AM   #6
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thanks.

Thanks. I will try pulling the emergency pin. I'll just need to figure out where it is located. I asked about it in a previous message. I don't thunk I have one, or it is missing. It's supposed to be on the tongue of the trailer right? And the. Your supposed to hook it to the hitch in case of an accident right? I think at least the emergency cord is missing. I am very new to travel trailers. So please excuse my ignorance.
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:07 AM   #7
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The entire new switch is about $20 cable and all. Yep should be on the tong and have a thin cable that yanks the plastic plunger out and two wires hanging out the back.
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Old 08-13-2013, 01:48 PM   #8
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Pictures of your hitch area would be helpful. You may not have a breakaway system installed.
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:52 PM   #9
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As near as I can tell the law has been around at least since 1988 that a trailer must have a brake away system that of course does not mean there is one installed any more. Just look for a small plastic box about 2" long and maybe an 1" wide it will have 2 wires one going to the battery the other one to the trailer wiring. It should have a small thin cable connected to it lots of times the owner let it drag on the ground and it maybe missing. If there isn't one the wiring should still be in place at least to the trailer it would be a real good ideal to check it out and make sure it's there and still works.
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:45 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by mainah View Post
As near as I can tell the law has been around at least since 1988 that a trailer must have a brake away system that of course does not mean there is one installed any more. Just look for a small plastic box about 2" long and maybe an 1" wide it will have 2 wires one going to the battery the other one to the trailer wiring. It should have a small thin cable connected to it lots of times the owner let it drag on the ground and it maybe missing. If there isn't one the wiring should still be in place at least to the trailer it would be a real good ideal to check it out and make sure it's there and still works.
I understand. I'm doing my best not to make any assumptions. Did that with a electrical thread and even with pictures, the views were such that I may have made assumptions not facts.

Shouda, coulda, woulda.....oops, who put that banana peel there!

Oh. When I took my trailer to DMV here in CT for VIN verification , it hasn't a breakaway system, but then too it is under 3500 pounds and under 3500 pounds it doesn't need electric brakes I believe. Never come up with DMV personnel
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Old 08-15-2013, 12:05 AM   #11
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Ok,Now hitch pctures.

Ok, I have some hitch pictures. I think this is the Emergency Break Away box. I also noticed on my hitch a small nylon string and a cotter pin. If this string is not what I am looking for can I buy just the line?

I also noticed that my lines coming from the propane tank where running under the tongue. I have lightly and temporarily zip tied it. I dont have any tanks installed till this weekend anyhow .
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Old 08-15-2013, 04:30 AM   #12
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That's the switch for the break-a-way system. Those wires are pigtailed into the brake system and run through a battery mounted on the trailer. The white plastic part with the hole in it is missing the small cable that attaches to the tow vehicle. When that part pulls out during a break-a-way, a connection inside that switch is made which activates the brakes via the battery mounted on the runaway trailer.

Here's a link that shows all the parts:

Breakaway System 20015 | 20015 | Nuera Trailer Parts

and here's how it's wired:





The nylon string with a small cotter is probably the keeper for the safety cam on the chain hangers of the equalizer hitch.
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:44 AM   #13
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break away switch

I was thinking about buying this one from amazon since I can have it to my house by Friday
Hopkins 20119 Engager SM Break-Away System with Battery Meter and 44" Switch:Amazon:Automotive do you think that one will be fine? It appears to have everything. And positive reviews. Thanks
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Old 08-15-2013, 12:00 PM   #14
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Yep. I have one like that on my cargo trailer.
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Old 08-15-2013, 12:12 PM   #15
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Yes, the picture is the breakaway switch. It looks like all you need is the cable that goes from the pin in the switch to the tow vehicle. The wiring from the existing trailer battery, through the breakaway switch, to the brakes should already be in place so that kit from Amazon would not be needed.

The breakaway cable is usually a thin stranded flexable wire type. You can get the whole switch and pull wire assembly for about $15 as I recall.
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:02 PM   #16
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breakaway system

I just got and need to install the Tekonsha Breakaway system with intergrated multi-stage charger and push to test (battery)

What you're looking at is similar and I would think is fine.

I'm new at this myself, so you may want to hear from some others opinions before you act with your setup.
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Old 08-16-2013, 04:02 PM   #17
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Doesn't your camper all ready have a battery and charger? I'm a really am K.I.S.S. based person and would personally use a simple switch.
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Old 08-17-2013, 07:00 AM   #18
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Doesn't your camper all ready have a battery and charger? I'm a really am K.I.S.S. based person and would personally use a simple switch.
Mainah is correct. You don't need all that extra stuff or expense if your trailer has a house battery. A $20.00 breakaway switch is all that's needed
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