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Old 10-08-2016, 08:36 AM   #1
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Problems with propane auto switch over regulator

Ok so it isn't a Sunline - but you all are still my go to people!

Started having a problem with the regulator not providing gas to the stove after no use (overnight) .

If Leo goes out & switches the switch & then back to the tank we are drawing from - you hear a pop & it works!!!

Any suggestions on what may be wrong - easy fix? If not & the suggestion is to replace it -?with what brand & model???

Thanks for your upcoming answers!!!
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Old 10-08-2016, 06:30 PM   #2
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Hi Kathy and Leo,

Sorry to hear that the Rubicon gremlins still seem to be vexing you...

Certainly sounds like the regulator is faulty. You should not experience a drop in flow if there's still enough gas in the designated on-demand cylinder that the auto-changeover feature does not kick in. And, the part about Leo having to, essentially, manually reset the regulator also indicates that the part is bad.

We replaced our factory regulator about two years ago with a Marshall Excelsior; I do believe it was this particular model:

https://www.amazon.com/Marshall-Exce...pane+regulator

It's worked great for us. The replacement was easy, but, heads up: the new regulator was wider across the body than the stock one. This resulted in me having to bend the propane gas pigtails to more of an acute angle, which in turn made the acme nuts a bit harder to line up properly on their fittings without cross-threading. Don't know what your pigtail setup is like, but it's just something to be aware of.

Hope all will work out for you.
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Old 10-17-2016, 05:47 AM   #3
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Kathy,

Have you made it past your problem?

You stated the stove was noticed to not work, went and flipped the regulator and then all starts working again, Does it do this on any other gas appliance or just the stove? Meaning the HW heater and the furnace does this also?

The stove itself has an extra regulator in it which could be an actor in this where the HW heater and the furnace does not.

That said, I did have to replace the change over regulator on the T2499 after about 3 years, it would not hold constant pressure. These RV regulators are cheap.

John
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Old 10-17-2016, 09:07 PM   #4
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The malfunctioning regulator is a invitation to double check the entire LP system for leaks. Soapy water solution is your friend to look for bubbles at joints, values and hoses.
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Old 10-18-2016, 06:20 AM   #5
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We were dry camping & the problem did not affect frig or hot water - did not try furnace!

I'll order a new regulator and install in the spring but the question now is which one!

Jim when we switch to the street side tank everything works fine.....
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Old 10-18-2016, 03:31 PM   #6
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If your fridge and hot water still werked but the stove stopped then front swap over regulator was still allowing gas to them. Maybe the pop you heard was the reset of the stove regulator. Unless your hot water and fridge run on electric. Sounds like more detective werk is in order.
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Old 10-18-2016, 10:35 PM   #7
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Well the detective work will have to wait until spring.....we are finally winterized and ready for storage, which was scheduled for Wednesday but now postponed till Thursday.

When we take it out in May we will do more investigating!!!!

Thanks everyone!
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:50 PM   #8
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Kathy,

Before too much time goes by to better help your detective work next spring, fill in this missing pieces of your LP saga.

You stated you where boon-docking, and the fridge on gas and the hot water heater on gas seemed to work but the stove would not. Then you flipped the gas regulator to the other tank, flipped the regulator back to the original tank, heard a pop and the stove started to work. Did we get that correct?

Please confirm,

Was the hot water heater running "burning on LP" heating water and the fridge burning gas when the stove would not work? Or were they just turned on ready to start as needed?

Reason for the questions is to help sort out a supply issue.

If Leo flipped the main tank regulator over and back and the stove worked as it was supposed to, a question is, was the hot water heater burning when all this happened?

This "might" be a gas restriction issue if the HW heater was burning but the stove did not work. The fridge uses very little gas, but the HW heater uses a fair amount. The furnace is a gas hog and uses a lot. The stove burners, 1 burner is not a lot.

If the main tank regulator OR the green ACME nut on the pig tail to the main tank are having issues, then the volume of gas passing through the main tank regulator might be a problem. The gas system is sized to allow all LP appliances to be running at the same time and not run out of gas supply. If the regulator or the green pig tail nut is acting up, they can have low pressure and or restrict the volume of gas.

Question: Where did Leo hear the "pop", at the main tanks or inside the camper at the stove?

Hope this helps

John

PS This test will sort out if the regulator has issues or not. If you have a LP gas person in town, even who works on home systems, they should be able to do this standard test. Annual Propane System Checks
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Old 10-20-2016, 09:06 AM   #9
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Here is another thought the tanks will shut down with a gas pressure loss (escaping gas or a line with no pressure) try turning off the tank and slowly turning it back on.
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Old 10-20-2016, 06:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Kathy,

Before too much time goes by to better help your detective work next spring, fill in this missing pieces of your LP saga.

You stated you where boon-docking, and the fridge on gas and the hot water heater on gas seemed to work but the stove would not. Then you flipped the gas regulator to the other tank, flipped the regulator back to the original tank, heard a pop and the stove started to work. Did we get that correct?

Please confirm, yes that is correct

Was the hot water heater running "burning on LP" heating water and the fridge burning gas when the stove would not work? Or were they just turned on ready to start as needed? Can't tell you honestly - they were both on but may have been in the stand by mode

Reason for the questions is to help sort out a supply issue.

If Leo flipped the main tank regulator over and back and the stove worked as it was supposed to, a question is, was the hot water heater burning when all this happened? See above for answer BUT if time went by (a few hours) the stove would not work! Leo reminded me that the stove problem continued to have problems while we had full hook ups.

What we did end up doing is turning off the primary tank & just use the secondary tank & all worked well for the rest of our trip

This "might" be a gas restriction issue if the HW heater was burning but the stove did not work. The fridge uses very little gas, but the HW heater uses a fair amount. The furnace is a gas hog and uses a lot. The stove burners, 1 burner is not a lot.

If the main tank regulator OR the green ACME nut on the pig tail to the main tank are having issues, then the volume of gas passing through the main tank regulator might be a problem. The gas system is sized to allow all LP appliances to be running at the same time and not run out of gas supply. If the regulator or the green pig tail nut is acting up, they can have low pressure and or restrict the volume of gas.

Question: Where did Leo hear the "pop", at the main tanks or inside the camper at the stove?outside by the tank

Hope this helps

John

PS This test will sort out if the regulator has issues or not. If you have a LP gas person in town, even who works on home systems, they should be able to do this standard test. Annual Propane System Checks
I know just the guy to do that!!!

[B]indid forget to tell you that we had a new line installed to run from before the regulator tab out 15' to where we can connect to our Coleman road trip grill![b]
I'll attach photos under a separate post
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Old 10-20-2016, 07:05 PM   #11
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Photo of new propane line

Here is a photo! Leo tapes off the lines & puts a plastic bag over them.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0753.jpg (67.6 KB, 20 views)
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Old 10-20-2016, 07:07 PM   #12
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Ok here is another question - when Leo disconnects the quick connect from the stove......he says he gets a watery oil mixture does that mean anything?
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Old 10-21-2016, 04:47 PM   #13
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Hi Kathy,

OK with the added info, the problem now points potentially to the main tank change over regulator or the green nut tank connection.

The part about being on full hookups and the stove not working, that may be more of a coincidence at the time. The camper should not know if it was in full hook up or just battery in regards to the LP system. But we will keep this in mind in case it triggers another thought the way you use the camper and this Road trip grill.

"IF" the same tank side has this issue and the other tank does not, then it may be the green nut at the tank. OR that the tank was turned on too fast OR the Road Trip grill port is interacting with this. The green nut has a safety device inside which will extremely restrict the gas flow to very little if a large slug of low pressure flows through the green nut. This safety re-stricter is added in case a hose or device blows off you do not have a large gas line blowing. Once the safety is tripped in restrict mode, you have to drop the pressure back to zero and it will reset. Turn tank off and bleed gas out of system or tank green nut off tank and put back on. Then "slowly" open the tank valve to not slug the system with a rush of gas. By flipping the change over regulator, that may have reset the safety and the pop was the valve resetting. I have never tried to reset one by doing this, but by switching tanks, the pressure could of equalized on the bad side and, pop, it reset.

The Coleman grill hose may play a role in this issue. The tap in point is down stream of the green nut but upstream of the regulator. If you turn the gas valve in the pic off and the issue never comes up, then this is the issue.


The thought is, the road trip grill tap in point is on full tank pressure, up to 100 to 150psi in that black rubber hose. If the coleman grill is plugged in or first turned on, that may be a large slug of gas and it trips the safety in the green nut. If this is the issue, then even the road trip grill will not work. If this is the case, let us know. You have to create a way to slowly fill that long gas line, first is to slowly open the tank valve and wait a while until you hear the hissing stop and then open the tank valve all the way. This is what Mainah was talking about.

If the problem is not the road trip grill tap, then the regulator itself may have internal issues. If the regulator does not open up fully to let the volume of gas flow or has a real low setpoint, then this can create problems. The gas check I told you about should prove this out. You said you had a local guy who could do this.

The oily stuff coming out of the road trip grill hose, is from the hose itself. There is a reaction that occurs with rubber hoses and LP gas. The gas extracts oil from the rubber and it accumulates in the hose. The longer the hose, the more the oil. If that hose is many feet long, like 8 plus feet, the oil can build up fairly quickly. Enough you can see it when you unhook the hoses. The factory limits rubber hoses on the camper to only the short piece up by the tanks to the hard pipe gas line. Then flexible copper tube to all appliances. Since this rubber hose is so short, the problem is not so bad. I have this same oil issue on my Weber Q or outdoor stove using a 6 foot hose from a 5# LP tank to the device. About every month or so of good use, I have to stand the hose up and drain the oil out. The amount is about
4 to 8 droplets for a 6 foot hose in a 1 month of my camping use. Since I use the stove all the time outside, the use is about 5# of LP per month or one of my tanks.

Here is the stove with the hose
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Old 10-21-2016, 05:05 PM   #14
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To help, this is the green nut on the tank connection I am talking about. The green color indicates the amount of LP gas volume it can pass. They have other colors for other volumes. The standard grill tank nut is black as there is only 1 device on that safety valve. The camper has many devices all drawing gas through the same safety valve and it needs to be a larger capacity.

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Old 10-22-2016, 06:24 AM   #15
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Ok I'll have to remember all this come spring!
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Old 10-24-2016, 11:20 AM   #16
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try bookmarking the page
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