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Old 05-02-2011, 02:00 PM   #1
mkm
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Plumbing

Hello all,
It is wonderful to have a forum like this as I have read so many issues that fellow Sunline owners have had and the help that they received.
I have a 1993 Sunline Solaris TT and was wondering if anyone knows how to get a plumbing diagram/schematic of the water lines, drain valve etc.? I did find wet carpet between the bed box and the wall of the shower and cannot imagine piping inder there. So think it is migrating from somewhere.
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Old 05-04-2011, 07:25 PM   #2
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Hi MKM

First of all welcome to the club. do you have storage under the bed and is there an outside access door to that storage area you may want to check to see if it is sealing properly. I have a 264 sr and the storage doors were leaking . I stepped out of bed to a wet floor after a hard rain one night. also if there is a window and if your bed is at the front of the camper check the seal around the window , good luck

Dan
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:23 AM   #3
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Thanks Dan. It is not related to the windows as I had no rain when discovering the wet carpet. So thats what leads me to beleive I have a leak either in a fitting or the pump. Also I was hooked into city water at the time. So I was trying to see a diagram of the plumbing so I could divide and conquer.
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:24 AM   #4
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I have a 1993 Sunline Solaris TT and was wondering if anyone knows how to get a plumbing diagram/schematic of the water lines, drain valve etc.?
So ... is the answer, "No, there's no schematic"?

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Old 05-05-2011, 09:46 AM   #5
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So ... is the answer, "No, there's no schematic"?
That is pretty much the case. Sunline never published model specific drawings of plumbing. Their wiring diagrams were also rudimentary at best and did not show precise location information on much of anything.

That said, RV plumbing systems are all pretty much the same. Fresh water tank has an inlet with a vent connected to the upper part of the tank and a drain connected at the lowest point of the tank. There is also a low connection on the fresh water tank that feeds to a pump which pressurizes water and sends it out to the rest of the system.

There is also a city water inlet which always connects to the cold water side downstream from the 12vdc pump. Normally, if on city water, there is no need to keep the fresh water tank filler as the city water pressure drives the whole system just fine.

Cold water then goes to the individual faucets and to the HW heater. Hot water goes from the heater to the individual faucets.

Sunline placed low point drains on both the hot and cold sides. They are usually together and look like inline valves laying on the floor. But if you look at the underside of the trailer in that location, you'll see a couple of 5' or 6" pipes dangling straight down. They are very valuable in draining the water out of the system when winterizing, but need to be closed back up before pumping in the pink stuff.

The toilets almost invariably sit directly above the black water tanks and are rarely (if ever) plumbed in any manner except a direct drop into the tank.

Gray water usually gets to its tank via 1.5" ABS.

Black and gray tanks are usually connected together by visible piping under the frame. Each should have its own drain valve. Beyond the drain valve the piping usually joins into a single 3" RV sewage drain fitting.

Both holding tanks usually have vents that extend directly from the tank up to the roof. They may be buried in partitions or in closets. There is almost always some kind of access to the bottom of the vent stack where it connects to the tank.

Unfortunately, it has always been up to the RV techs or owners to learn about their individual systems. I have spent a lot of time opening access hatches and looking in all kinds of places in and under the trailer so that I have a pretty good idea of where each and every pipe is located
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Old 05-05-2011, 10:14 AM   #6
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Wow! Thats great information. Ok, i see that I will have to shrink down and get in there as best I can and try to determine where its coming from. Just one more ?. If the drain valves are open then the syetem would not pressurize?
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Old 05-05-2011, 11:02 AM   #7
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If the drain valves are open then the syetem would not pressurize?
If by "not pressurize" you mean the pump would not shut off, then the answer is yes. Having the drain valves open is just like having both faucets (hot and cold) at a sink open. In addition, you will have two streams of water exiting under the trailer, very easy to spot.

If you are winterizing, the streams will be pink!! Please don't ask how I know that one!!!!

FYI: On my trailer the low point drain valves are in the bathroom vanity, right on the floor.

Mack
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Old 05-05-2011, 11:21 AM   #8
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If the drain valves are open then the system would not pressurize?
The system will try to pressurize via the 12vdc pump running constantly (if you have the pump turned on.) What it wants is to get up to pressure and then shut itself off. In proper operation, the pump should only come on when you actually use water through one of the faucets.

If the low point drains are open (or any other faucet), the system can never reach full pressure and the pump runs continuously. The same would be true if there is a break in a line somewhere. Depending on the size of the break, the pump may run constantly or it may cycle on and off.
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Old 05-05-2011, 03:28 PM   #9
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Ok, so instead of city water I should fill the tank and see if the pump cavitates on and off to signify a leak somewhere?
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:04 PM   #10
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Ok, so instead of city water I should fill the tank and see if the pump cavitates on and off to signify a leak somewhere?
The presence or absence of cavitation does not necessarily indicate a leak.

Perhaps you could tell us which model you have so that we could look at the floor plan and maybe help you find ways to check all the piping for a leak.

In one of your first posts, you said you thought you had a leak in either a fitting or the pump. You should be able to locate and look at the pump to locate or rule out a leak.

Same for most of the fittings. In my trailer, by removing drawers or access panels and looking under the bed or couch I can see nearly every fitting and about 85% of the piping in the system.

Sometimes access is not so obvious. For example, by removing the floor of the two compartments below the sink, I can get at a whole bunch of the plumbing.
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Old 05-05-2011, 05:31 PM   #11
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Ok, so instead of city water I should fill the tank and see if the pump cavitates on and off to signify a leak somewhere?
If the pump cycles without any open faucets, that's a good indication of a leak. If the leak seems to only happen when hooked up to city water, the first place I would look would be where the water line connects to the back of the city water fitting on the side of your trailer.
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Hello all,


I have a 1993 Sunline Solaris TT and was wondering if anyone knows how to get a plumbing diagram/schematic of the water lines, drain valve etc.? I did find wet carpet between the bed box and the wall of the shower and cannot imagine piping inder there. So think it is migrating from somewhere.
Hi MKM

Welcome to Sunline Owners Club

Did you find you leak yet?

You mentioned water between the shower and the bed area and I see your on the hunt for a pressure leak.

Question: Did you see/feel the wet after using the shower?

Reason for asking is the drain in the shower can come loose and leak around the drain fitting. I do not exactly know what Sunline used in 1993 as far as pluming fittings but the newer ones have drain basket that works just like a sink basket in your home. On the top in the shower there is a flange, under the flange some putty tape, then under the shower is a threaded downspout. There is a large nut that compresses up against the bottom of the shower or tub bottom to compress the basket tight. If the putty is shot or the nut loose, it can and has been known to leak.

The water pump was mentioned, if the pump is working correctly then yes the pump should build pressure and shut down. If a leak is occurring in the down stream pressure side it will again cycle. However.... if the internal check valves in the pump have some dirt stuck in them and they leak back into the fresh tank it can also cycle.

Do you have access to a small air compressor? If you are still on the hunt for a pressure leak you can pressurize the system with 30 to 40psi, valve off the incoming air and see if the pressure bleeds down. Ideally you have an air gage to see it bleeding down. You can screw in a air fitting to the fresh water inlet to pressurize.

If you still can't find the leak, it may be better to search with air pressure then water pressure as if water is still coming, it is just getting wetter and wetter. You can use the air to blow out the water and then continue the hunt.

Again on the newer campers where ever the pressure plumbing screwed to a fitting, like a faucet, a toliet, and incoming fresh water fitting, there is a rubber washer inside the fitting. If the fitting is loose that is problem one. But over time the rubber can get hard and crack and then you need a new grommet. This has happened before.

Key is you have to track down the source of the leak first then prepare the mode of fix. I know, sometimes easier said then done...

Good luck

John
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Old 05-09-2011, 08:07 AM   #13
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Have not found the leak yet and was not using the shower, camper is out of state and I will not be back to it for a couple of months. I am trying to aquire as much information as I can so when I go back to it I can try and isolate the leak. The air pressure sounds like a great idea.
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