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Old 07-25-2013, 04:33 PM   #1
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Caulk for corner moulding?

What is the product used under the corner roof and siding trim. I'm talking about the channel with all the screws and the rubber insert that covers them. It has the consistency of plumber putty, but it's dirty and I can't tell what it is.

I had to pull off the lower rear siding to investigate some damage, but that's a WHOLE other story.


Thanks!!
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Old 07-25-2013, 04:36 PM   #2
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Probably butyl rubber. Dicor non leveling caulk will also work
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:22 PM   #3
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As Jim said, butyl rubber putty tape. It comes in grey, white, and black and various widths. It is also used to seal under window, door, and compartment door frames. Tighten the screws until it oozes out a bit and use a plastic putty knife to scrape off any excess.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:42 PM   #4
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Okay, so it comes as a tape, as opposed to a caulking tube? That will make things easier.


Looks like my recently purchased Sunline has turned into a project. I am trying to take the high road and take this in stride when I really should be furious. I have a lot of work to do.

Do you know what the metal molding is called, and is the roof and back wall the same type of molding. I unscrewed it all the way to the top and it bends up onto the roof, but I wasn't sure if it's transitions to another style or shape on the roof?

Thanks. I'm sure some more questions are coming.
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:21 PM   #5
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Okay, so it comes as a tape, as opposed to a caulking tube? That will make things easier.
Yes, that's how they originally installed it. You can get a roll of butyl tape at an RV dealer. It's cheap too- like $6 for a 25' roll. This would be much better than caulking the outside edge and leaving old tape behind.


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Looks like my recently purchased Sunline has turned into a project. I am trying to take the high road and take this in stride when I really should be furious. I have a lot of work to do.
Details please!!

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Do you know what the metal molding is called, and is the roof and back wall the same type of molding. I unscrewed it all the way to the top and it bends up onto the roof, but I wasn't sure if it's transitions to another style or shape on the roof?
I think it's just referred to as corner molding. I believe the stuff on the corners is different than the roof stuff. The corner stuff has an edge that wraps around the non-screw side. The molding along the front of the coach doesn't have that- it's flat. I believe the side moldings have the gutter attached to them and it doesn't wrap around the top edge like the sides wrap. I do believe the rear roof molding is the same as the corner molding.

I need to redo a couple of my corner moldings soon too- I noticed the tape seal has broken free from the aluminum siding when I was hand scrubbing all those lovely bugs off...

When your corner moldings curve up onto the top of the roof, the seam of the three pieces there is just covered in gobs of Dicor 501 (the trade name for the Dicor self-leveling sealant). Remove all the screws as you have been and eventually that piece will end under the sealant. Side roof moldings will require you to remove screws along the side- pull the screw cover off and pull them out horizontally. Front and rear roof molding screws are vertical and again have gobs of Dicor 501 over them.

I just touched up a couple of my roof seams last weekend that I noticed had started to split. Aside from the split, I was happy to see that none of the original Dicor had actually started cracking anywhere from age, and I was able to pull out a lot of the split seam stuff very easily- the original was still pliable! I did maybe 10' of roof seam total and probably used just under half a tube. I was a bit more generous on the seam than Sunline was too.

That is messy stuff though, so I'd recommend wearing disposable gloves and have paper towel handy. Speaking from experience last weekend, it will come off your hands, but not without some persuasion. Be careful not to drop it onto the ground if you care about it, because it's a pain to get up. Since I was doing the job inside, some did drip onto the concrete floor. I wiped up what I could with the paper towel, then sprayed the area with 3M Adhesive and Wax Remover, then used a screwdriver to scrape up the excess, then used another application of the adhesive remover and clean paper towel to remove the remaining residue.
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:14 AM   #6
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Details please!!

I have to be careful what I say as this may go legal. I am going to do the labor myself in my barn, but I will lose the use of this trailers for weeks, maybe months. I have asked the seller to pay for the materials, which I think is generous, as the trailer was misrepresented. If I had a shop do this is would be thousands, The materials are a fraction of that. So far I have not gotten a response.

I haven't gotten into the roof yet to see where it came from.

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Old 07-26-2013, 08:01 AM   #7
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I have to be careful what I say as this may go legal. I am going to do the labor myself in my barn, but I will lose the use of this trailers for weeks, maybe months. I have asked the seller to pay for the materials, which I think is generous, as the trailer was misrepresented. If I had a shop do this is would be thousands, The materials are a fraction of that. So far I have not gotten a response.

I haven't gotten into the roof yet to see where it came from.

I doubt you'd have any legal chance with it because as with most used vehicle sales, it's an as-is, where-is/no warranty expressed/implied deal. I've put that on all my bills of sale too. Unfortunately these days water damage in a used Sunline is nearly guaranteed and 9 times out of 10, the seller has no idea that it's that way.

That pic does look nasty, but at least it looks fairly confined. Does it go far back into the floor?

While it could be roof related, I also wouldn't rule out the water heater. IIRC the 2499 had it under the couch there. If a fitting, or the tank, split from lack of/poor winterizing one year, that's bad news for the floor below it.
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:00 AM   #8
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I just had the plastic bypass valve crack, tank side of bypass. Was winterized,Lines blew and antifreeze put in and used several times this year. One morning I steped out of bed to a wet carpet. I repaired with new bypass kit dried out the carpet and thought the problem was solved. Shortly after I looked under TT and seen underbelly plastic saging and cut a slit in it. Several gallans of water came running out. Insulation was soaked. I've opened the whole area and pulled all insulation out. It's been a week and a half and ares of wood are still wet. I won't reinstall insulation till my moisture meter tells me it's all dry.
Water can stray traped a long time down there.
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:13 AM   #9
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I didn't want this thread to turn into a legal discussion.
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:19 AM   #10
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I just had the plastic bypass valve crack, tank side of bypass. Was winterized,Lines blew and antifreeze put in and used several times this year. One morning I steped out of bed to a wet carpet. I repaired with new bypass kit dried out the carpet and thought the problem was solved. Shortly after I looked under TT and seen underbelly plastic saging and cut a slit in it. Several gallans of water came running out. Insulation was soaked. I've opened the whole area and pulled all insulation out. It's been a week and a half and ares of wood are still wet. I won't reinstall insulation till my moisture meter tells me it's all dry.
Water can stray traped a long time down there.

They told me the back window got taken out by a tree, but no water got inside. I know now that's not true. It looks like the black tarp trapped a bunch of water and allowed the wood to wick it up. The damage stops about a foot up the studs and it appears fine. Looks like it came from the bottom up. The same tree made a small whole in the roof (couple inch tear), but I doubt that much water made it's way through a small cut, some yes, but not this much. There is no staining anywhere in the ceiling and I went through the vent and speaker holes and it looks fine up there. It looks like I can easily get to all the bad wood and that the damage didn't travel too much.
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:22 AM   #11
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Unfortunately these days water damage in a used Sunline is nearly guaranteed and 9 times out of 10, .
This should be a sticky at the top of all forums if it's true.
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:45 AM   #12
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This should be a sticky at the top of all forums if it's true.
That's a good point, but water damage is such a broad subject, it can come from so many different sources. It's hard to generalize.
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