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Old 07-14-2009, 10:36 AM   #1
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Atwood Hot Water Heater questions...

Well, I'm a little confused and hope someone can add a little clarity to my situation.

My hot water heater is an Atwood G6A6....


I could've sworn that it operated off of AC when I plugged into shore power last year but I'm not positive. I know this year I didn't take the precaution of filling the tank before plugging in the camper so I was confident I'd burned up the element. Today I went to perform the repair and I'm a little stumped as to whether or not my water heater operates on AC or if it's just a LP water heater exclusively.

I can find no wiring that goes to the heater at all(none from the inside of the camper or to the access panel on the outside) and per the picture, there is no board that operates the system.

Is this a propane operated only water heater? (I could be confusing it with one of the many campers I've had roll through here)

I also want to replace the relief valve. What's the easiest way to remove the existing valve? Can I get a 1/2" valve from Lowes or is this a specialty item?

Any insight is appreciated.
Thanks!
Take care,
Lode
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Old 07-14-2009, 11:16 AM   #2
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After poking around a little I guess I was mistaken... I found the code ID for the explanation to the model numbers. If it was a AC/LP combo it's appear as 'GC6A6'


I'll look for the pressure relief valve at the camper store today when I visit.

Take care,
Lode
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Old 07-14-2009, 11:37 AM   #3
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Make it AC

We have basically the same Hot Water heater and made it electric.

The transition consists of removing the drain blug and replacing it with a electric heating element. The heating lement and thermostats are available from most RV sources and probably EBAY. We have put one in our motorhome and our SUnline and they work well.

The only potential problem is turning them on with no water in the tank.

Most of the time I think it's worth the silence.

Norm
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Old 07-15-2009, 07:55 AM   #4
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Re: Make it AC

Quote:
Originally Posted by Honda03842
The transition consists of removing the drain blug and replacing it with a electric heating element.
How do you drain the tank to winterize after you've put an element in the tank drain?


I understand the upgrade but as little as we use hot water I'm probably going to keep it the way it is and perhaps put in a whole new 10 gallon LP/AC water heater unit down the road.


Take care,
Lode
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Old 07-15-2009, 08:24 AM   #5
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Draining

It's possible to remove the heating element; the fitting is brass, to drain. However I've never done this. What I do is open the hot water and cold water drains and let it drain as much as possible.

Once drained I close the valves and add RV anti freeze via my water tank, pumping it thru the system. My goal is not to get all the water out, but rather most and to get some antifreeze everywhere. I then fill the traps with anti-freeze and it's good to go.

On my rig because of the way I have arranged tank filling, it is also necessary to remove the filter and drain the connecting input hose.

In my RVing experience I have found that the limited freezing of UNpressurized water lines is surprisingly safe.

If we're in a cold weather situation I always disconnect the outside hose and relieve the system's pressure. Though a line has occasionally frozen, once for four days, we have never had a rupture.

I assume that a pressurized system expands the pipes and leaves no margin for freezing.

Of course I am not recommending freezing the system but I admit to be surprised by the water system's ability.

As to the worth of electric hot water, we're on the road 7-10 months a year and it's a nice convenience when we're hooked up. We hope that our new solar system provides the ability to have electric hot water when dry camping.

Safe and memorable travels,

Norm
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:53 PM   #6
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is the hot water outlet on top or bottom of the atwood water heater?
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigmomma717 View Post
is the hot water outlet on top or bottom of the atwood water heater?
Hi Big

Welcome to Sunline Owners Club.

To your direct question the hot water outlet is on top. The cold inlet on the bottom. The hot water rises up.

Are you hooking up one or having problems with yours? A camper model number and year helps tell us what you have. And ideally if you have a number of tech questions the make, model and serial number of the heater

Here is the back of a 2004 vintage Atwood. The red tube on top is the hot water outlet


Hope this helps

John
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:18 AM   #8
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Thanks John B, its a 82 sunline with no color coding. The orginal ownwers had the lines backwards. take care ,happy rving! This is our first trailer!
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Old 10-18-2014, 07:34 PM   #9
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I have a question. What is the purpose of the short blue hose that runs between the cold inlet hose and the hot outlet hose? Are there valves on those t-connections? I have a similar set up, although my t-connections/y-valves are frozen and won't turn. Is the purpose so that if you can't make hot water, you turn the valves and the cold water runs through the hot water lines too?
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Old 10-18-2014, 09:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triton318 View Post
I have a question. What is the purpose of the short blue hose that runs between the cold inlet hose and the hot outlet hose? Are there valves on those t-connections? I have a similar set up, although my t-connections/y-valves are frozen and won't turn. Is the purpose so that if you can't make hot water, you turn the valves and the cold water runs through the hot water lines too?
Hi,

I'm assuming you are referring to this pic? That was off my 2004, T-2499



The blue hose that runs vertical between the bottom white valve and the top Tee that has a red hose leaving the HW heater, is what we call a "Hot water bypass".

When you winterize the camper, you drain the water out of the heater and leave the plastic plug out (the plug is outside behind the metal door flap). Then you rotate lower white valve handle and the pump RV antifreeze through the water lines by using the on board fresh water pump. They make a winterizing kit with a hose at the pump so you do not fill the fresh tank with antifreeze. By switching the lower valve, anti freeze does not fill the heater ( and take up to 6 gallons to fill it,) and goes up the blue vertical pipe, goes to the Tee. There is a check valve between the tank and the Tee so no anti freeze goes in the top. After the Tee the anti freeze then goes to the red "hot" lines and to all the hot water faucets.

If the lower valve is frozen solid and will not rotate, unscrewing the white end caps unhooks it from the piping. Once it is out in the open you may be able to get it to start working OR put a new one in.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-19-2014, 06:38 AM   #11
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The electric heaters usually have a switch some where. I doubt you'll find a 1/2 valve at any of the big box stores and many plumbing supply outfits will not sell to a non licensed person maybe an RV dealer?
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Old 10-20-2014, 03:39 PM   #12
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Thanks; appreciate it.
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