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Old 04-29-2016, 02:48 PM   #1
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2003 Solaris floor repair

I'm, at least, the third owner of a T1950. A leak in the toilet and/or shower apparently has weakened the flooring material in that area and now the frame to which the rear bumper on the left side is attached has come free and and is hanging loose.

Has anyone had this happen and, if so, what's the best way to repair it? Replacing the flooring in that area in order to reattach the frame member appears to be a really big undertaking.

All responses will be appreciated. Thanks.

Jim McDonald
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Old 04-30-2016, 10:23 PM   #2
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Hi Jim,

I have not had this happen to me, however I know the T1950 floor plan and have been in a few of them. A very popular model.

Any chance of some pics of the area? I'm not following the frame attachment part. Do you mean an outrigger that hangs off the main frame or main floor bolting to the steel main frame rails? The bumper attaches to the main frame rail.

Do you mean the floor support wood it totally gone where the lags hold the upper camper to the steel frame?

John
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Old 05-03-2016, 12:36 PM   #3
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Hi John,
On the left side, the bumper is bolted to a short (about 4 foot) frame piece that runs forward to just ahead of the holding tank valves. I can't see how it attaches to the main frame or floor. The front end of that piece seems attached to something but along its length from there to the bumper there are no signs of it attaching to anything. With the spare tire on its bumper mount the weight causes the left side of the bumper to sag about 4 inches and vibrate on rough roads. I've tried to attach pictures to this but can't figure out how to do that.

Thanks,
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:15 PM   #4
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Hi Jim,

First off, posting pics. Here are 2 posts that may help. If you have your pics on a photo server, then they can link into our site pretty easy. If you do not have a photo site, you can upload them to our forum site.

See these 2 posts
Forums 101 - posting, accounts, basics

How to post a picture on SunlineClub

Now to the bumper. Yes the spare tire can and has bent the bumpers backwards. The prior owners may have overloaded the rear bumper and bent the very light weight mounting tabs. Sunline on purpose made the bumper mounts to only hold 100#. This was to not allow a lot of weight on the back of the camper and accidentally upset the towing stability.

They used a few methods over the years and "I think" your 2003 is or was made like this. The 4" bumper has a very thin 1/16" thick pad welded on the back side. That pad holds the bumper to the trailer frame. If you go over the weight rating, the thin metal gives way. Looks like this





However... what you are describing does not sound like original. Someone may have had an issue and redid something. The few versions that I know of that Sunline used, attached to the ends of the main frame rails. How they did the break away plates differed over the years but your 2003 should be close to or like this pics of the 2004 T2499 I use to have posted above. They bolted to a plate with slots welded to the end of the main frame rails.

Hopefully you can get some pic's to post so we can see what you are up against.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 05-04-2016, 05:31 AM   #5
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Hi John,
I may or may not have attached photos to this...I know very little about computers.

Thanks for your help. Let me know if you get the images of the problem area.
Thanks,

Jim
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File Type: jpg DSC_7750.jpg (104.6 KB, 12 views)
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Old 05-04-2016, 07:59 PM   #6
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Jim, your pictures are there. Looks like you did it just right.

I see the bumper has pulled away from what should be a weld to the frame rail. What puzzles me is the vertical space between the back of the camper and the frame rail. I believe the frame rails should be one continous piece from the rear bumper to the front of the camper and the floor rests on that pair of rails and the rails that go side to side.
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Old 05-04-2016, 09:45 PM   #7
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Jim,

You did the pic's right. Good job! They are coming through. A few things I see,

The spare tire, what can be done to help the heavy flexing, loosen up the U bolts that go over the square bumper and slide the entire spare tire assembly right to the plate that is welded to the frame rail. And try to get one U bolt over the welded on plate to the frame rail. Then a lot of the tire load goes into the plate and not twisting the bumper. Move to the side away from the dump pipe. Would be your door side. Then it is not in the way of the frame rail we need to talk about.

Make sure the tire does not cover up the tail light. The light should be just about above it and the license plate is on the other side.

The bumper from that one pic, sure does look just like the pics I posted. The thin plate on the bumper has been overloaded some where in it's life.

Need some more pics. For sure the camper has separated from the frame in that corner. As you said, if the bolts rusted out, there is no connection.

What looks odd is, is the camper going up hill at the back or the frame rail going down? May be a picture optical illusion. If you put a long straight edge under the frame or pull a string tight from the spring mount area all the way to the bumper, you can see if the frame has issues or not.

Can you take some pics of the frame by the dump pipe area? There is what looks like a piece of 3" Channel iron pointing outwards by the dump pipe. Also if possible under the camper pointing towards that outboard channel iron. Need to see the main frame rail through that area.

Normally, like Gene said, the main frame rail starts at the front A frame header, goes through the axle area and stops at the back bumper. All one piece. It may well still be like that and the channel iron is an outrigger welded to it to support the wall up.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:37 AM   #8
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Hi John and Gene,
On the left (driver) side of the trailer the frame rail runs from the front of the body and ends at the "L" in the photo. From there a separate frame rail runs from the "L" and is bolted to there bumper (a distance of about 4 feet. That short piece is welded to the "L" piece and from there has no (visible) attachment to the trailer body...it floats and therefore allows that side of the bumper to sag especially when the spare is mounted on that side.
My assumption is that somewhere along that 4 foot section there is a bolt (near the bumper) that goes up through the flooring as a second point of attachment to hold the bumper up. My further assumption is that the water leak softened the flooring material allowing that bolt to pull through the flooring and allowing that portion of the short rail to sag. (that's why I titled my post "floor repair). The short piece is so close to the belly wrap material that I can't see or touch the top surface of the short rail to see if there is (or should be) such a mounting bolt.

Jim
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Old 05-05-2016, 07:29 PM   #9
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Something there is not right. Does the rail on the other side look the same?

In places where the floor is bolted to the frame the bolt extends downward. If the bolt was missing you would at least see a hole in the rail where the bolt should be.
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim McDonald View Post
Hi John and Gene,
On the left (driver) side of the trailer the frame rail runs from the front of the body and ends at the "L" in the photo. From there a separate frame rail runs from the "L" and is bolted to there bumper (a distance of about 4 feet. That short piece is welded to the "L" piece and from there has no (visible) attachment to the trailer body...it floats and therefore allows that side of the bumper to sag especially when the spare is mounted on that side.
Jim
Hi Jim,

Boy... what you are describing sounds, well not right. BUT maybe they did something strange.

I zoomed in on the one pic. The L you are describing sure looks like a piece of channel iron and not a piece of angle iron. The upper leg of the channel sort of blended into all the black in the pic but it would be to hold the outer wall of the camper, "maybe". I can see the web and the leg and the leg on channel is formed different then angle iron.

It really does not make a lot of sense Sunline would add a 4 foot piece off like that. But again, while they were a great company, every now and then something strong happened.

Are you sure, the main frame rail is not continuous and the channel iron welded to it? It is even faster to make a continuous rail and weld on a side out rigger then to butt joint them.

There also should be some kind of left to right support under the camper. It would span left to right and attached to both main frame rails. This might be a thinner piece of formed metal, but something to create a tie between the 2 frame rails.

Have a look and take some pics.

I agree with Gene, the frame rail should have a hole where a rusted out screw stud would go up into the wood structure. It would of had threads on it and a nut to hold it to the frame. Look on the door side, one should be over there. The back side (dump valve side) may have rusted off and or rotted out like you said and the stud is gone. But the hole should be there.

The frame rail normally holds up the bumper. The camper attaches to the frame. I see the gap you have and that should not be there. Did you try the string or long straight edge to see if the main frame rail is straight and the camper lifted up off the frame? verses the frame being lower then the camper flooring hanging down.

I was under a T1950 about 2 years ago helping a member with a leak. I'll have to see if by odd chance I have any pics of the under side.

You have my curiosity up big time now and the frame situation.

Please report back what you find. This is an odd one.

John
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