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Old 06-20-2007, 06:06 PM   #1
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joncassino
Hitch for T-2475

Hi -

We have a 97 T-2475 that we are towing with a 97 F150. The DrawTite hitch that came with it has 750# bars which are flexing when I tighten the chains. While the truck isn't squatting we can tell that we could use a little stiffer ride. Our mechanic suggested airbags but I'm wondering if 1000# bars might do the trick. The tongue weight is probably 750# if not more. Anyone have any idea if I'm right?

Here is a link to a bigger photo you can download:

http://images23.fotki.com/v877/file4...6/DSCF0052.jpg

Thanks! Jon & Val

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Old 06-20-2007, 08:21 PM   #2
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I think your bars are undersized. I think I read (maybe on this forum ) that in certain turning situation much more force is exerted on the bars. Therefore oversizing your bar is not bad idea. I will see if I can find the post.
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Old 06-20-2007, 09:21 PM   #3
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Jon

A friendly heads up, do not use air bags to correct your problem. That is not a good application for them to fix a WD issue. Getting the right bars for the loaded tongue weight and extra weight in the truck bed behind the TV axle is best and will work all by itself. Air bags help people with Fiverís but are really not good to use with TTís. I can expand on this more if you want to or need to.

To do this so you know for sure, take the camper and truck loaded to go camping to a truck scale. Do 3 weighings all axle by axle. Truck stops have a semi scale that has 3 scales on it. Can put front TV axle on one, rear TV axle on the 2nd and both TT axles on the 3rd.

Get

1. TV and TT hitched with WD bars on and engaged.

2. TV and TT hitched and no WD bars. Go slow she will be pointing at the stars.

3. Unhitch the camper and get just the truck axles.

From this data you can figure out your tongue weight and if the WD is set up correctly or not returning the TV front axle to unhitched weight.

The spring bars sizing needs to be at or greater than the tongue weight of the camper and add to them if you have a lot of load aft of the TV axle in the truck bed. Running a tongue heavier than the bar is rated for can create issues and pending how far over, can break one as I was told directly by Reese tech service.

All bars do flex some, so flexing is not a problem as long as they are not over there rating.

Can help more if you need and gald to.

John
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Old 06-20-2007, 09:56 PM   #4
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Jon,

I've always used the 750 bars and have had no problems. I even used them on the 2653, so I'm surprised you're having problems with a shorter TT. I'll admit, the 2475 seems to have a longer tongue-to-axle distance than the 2653, hence the heavier tongue weight.

According to the '97 Brochure, your model has a dry tongue weight of 670 lbs. But, since you have a front bed, that gives you huge storage capabilities, and extra weight. Also, you don't have the option of counter-weighing the extra weight in the front because of the bathroom in the rear. Sure, you could put stuff in the dinette, but not enough to counteract all the heavy stuff you'd put under the bed. Due to all these issues, I'd highly recommend upgrading to the 1000 lb. bars. General RV will most likely take a trade on your old bars too. BTW, you should just have to replace the bars. Don't let anyone tell you you have to replace the whole hitch. Even though there are different styles of hitches, the replacement bars for your style (round bar style) are still available.

I would also highly recommend weighing the unit fully loaded, just to see. Remember, fresh water, waste water, LP gas, and other camping items all affect the weight. To the best of my knowledge, the closest truck stop with a weigh station to you would be along 94 in Dexter. It's at Baker Road (Exit 167). There are two Pilot's there, with one on either side of the highway. They both have scales.

Jon
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Old 06-21-2007, 03:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan

According to the '97 Brochure, your model has a dry tongue weight of 670 lbs. But, since you have a front bed, that gives you huge storage capabilities, and extra weight. Also, you don't have the option of counter-weighing the extra weight in the front because of the bathroom in the rear.

Don't let anyone tell you you have to replace the whole hitch. Even though there are different styles of hitches, the replacement bars for your style (round bar style) are still available.

Jon
Thanks Mark, John & Jon -

I'm sure I'm over that 670# rating. With just our cloths and a small tub of reading material would put us over 750# easy. I'm going to weigh the rig at my local truck stop. I knew the scales were actually three but never realized why until I read John's email.

Sounds like you've "been there and done that" Jon - I've already been told I need an entire new hitch by the local hitch store. But Marshall RV, who I have an appointment already scheduled for my frig recall gave me the straight dope.

One thing - they are quoting $180 which really is not that much less than a n entirely new hitch - what's the skinny on the "solid" or "chainless" hitches?
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Old 06-21-2007, 07:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joncassino
Sounds like you've "been there and done that" Jon - I've already been told I need an entire new hitch by the local hitch store.
Fortunately, I haven't been there. But, I could imagine that that story could be used by a dealer. When my dad got his new toy hauler, they told us that we needed really heavy bars (1200#, and I agreed, we needed heavy duty), but I said I have a trunnion head and could we just get new bars. They said we could, but my head, which came with one of my trailers and I hadn't used before, didn't look like the best design, so we decided just to get a whole new setup. That way, I was able to pass the hitch along to the new owner of my trailer. By having the head already, I was able to uncover a hidden secret of the hitch industry which they make a lot of money off of.

Quote:
Originally Posted by joncassino
One thing - they are quoting $180 which really is not that much less than an entirely new hitch
That price doesn't sound too unreasonable. General RV's website has replacement 1000 lb. Round Bar style bars for $149.95, which includes new chains and hardware to mount the chains to the bars. You'd use that $30 just in gas to and from General. But, when they have the whole new hitch for $299.95, why pay for parts you already have!

Jon
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
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Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 07-17-2007, 10:47 AM   #7
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Follow up

I didn't get to the scales but I did weigh the items we we pack in the trailer's front bedroom. Between those items and the Goup27 battery we are in excess of 350 pounds. So even if 50% goes to the rear wheels we are still over the 750lbs our bars are rated for. Based on this I picked up 1000# bars ($145 @ Hitches & More) and towed the trailer to its storage yard.

BIG DIFFERENCE - truck rides better and the trailer handles better. Best $145 I could have spent!.
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Old 07-17-2007, 01:30 PM   #8
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Jon was that $145 each for for the pair? We are in a very similar situation, however a friend down the street has 1000 lb bars he no longer uses - got himself a Hensley....anyway - we are trying to figure out what to offer him for the used bars!

Kathy
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Old 07-17-2007, 02:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poppy & Nana
Jon was that $145 each for for the pair?
Hi Kathy -

That was for the pair - I called around and was quoted $185 at two different rv stores and the $145 at our local hitch store. I'm betting the $185 is "MSRP".

You will be very happy with the upgrade - I think the 750# bars are too small for our trailers from the get go. The extra bounce we felt after going over a bump is gone and the rig just feels much more stable.
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Old 07-17-2007, 03:36 PM   #10
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Thanks!

Just told DH he MUST try the heavier bars ----- he is not a happy camper!

We won't be heading out for a few more weeks, so he'll have some time to calm down and get them ready!
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