Electrical ratings of wall sockets...any difference

[JohnB]

From Drakes post and the discussion that followed afterwords made me question, OK what exactly do I have in my camper? I did not have to deal with any issues so far in this area nor did I have a need "yet" to open up a receptacle. So on our last campout I did some investigating.

Here are pictures of what I have in mine. They are a combination of "self contained devices" aka "SCD's" and ones that use a shallow plastic box and screw terminals and push in wire connections. The SCD means there is no additional devices like a separate electrical box, receptacle and cover it is an all one self contained devices.

The SCD's. I have 5 of them as wall receptacles. Looks like this and the internals.


The cover pops off with a gentle prying on the ends.


Looks like this with the cover off. The 2 screws work 2 swing clamps to clamp this to the luan wall board.


Here is the manufacture and the part number.



Here is the unit out of the wall. You have to pop off the gray rear cover by pushing in the snap dogs on the sides.

You can see the gray lock tabs here



Now the unit it self inside.


This is what I believe mainah was describing. After seeing this, I too am not a fan of this type of connection. This is one step up from a scotch lock connector that I despise with great passion especially when RV manufactures use them on brake wiring. At least Sunline did not use these but my son's Colemean PU did and so does Skyline. Scotch lock

I had to dig but I found the manufacture. PS stands for Pass and Seymor and here is the catalog. And they do show a UL and CSA approval when used in their approved locations. Which appears to be RV's and Pre-manufactured housing. Having to apply and obtained a UL rating on industrial control cabinets all I can say is there must be different level of UL compliance.... How this connection is approved in a setting exposed to vibration is beyond me.
http://tools.passandseymour.com/lite..._Bro_frame.pdf

Legrand the mother company About

And a web hit that finally gave me a clue to find the Pass and Seymor trail.
boxless devices? - Mike Holt Code Forum

At least these are still made here in the US or at least they where. There seems to be a special allowance for them in RV's and manufactured housing. I do not know what drove this need, cost or time as these type of devices are know as speed wiring devices. You would think with the road vibration, lack of shocks on the standard RV that they would not use this type of connection in an RV. But I have them and despite me not liking them personally they have not yet presented me with a problem. However if one does become loose in the wiring, total replacement is your only solid course of correction. I will have to investigate if a standard screw type receptacle is rated to work in a shallow box.

Next is the GFI wall plugs. These are for sure deeper and will not work in a standard 2" wall and not hit the siding with wire connections in the box. There is a plastic box in the wall and an extender plate to create the required room.





The box and the GFI. I really wish they would of used the screw terminals verses the push in's. Again the push in's are rated for the load just I have found them come loose. Last year I replaced 2 outlets in my daughters house from these coming loose.


The inspector sticker.


So for those inquiring minds needing to know (like me... ) this is what Sunline did in at least 2003 and 2004. Mostly likely a little older and all the way to the end in 2006 with the last 2007 models.

Thanks

John

[mainah]

The GFI's are most likely a back feed connection meaning the screws actually clamp down on the wire inside. They are OK. The stab on things leave me cold I know why they do it and there are many things out there that are exempt and that's one of them. I'm going to guess that is the way they are able to use laborers and not an electricians to wire campers. NEMA (national electrical manufactures association) are the ones that set the standards and guess what? they make the stuff!
On the feed through outlets they just strip the outer jacket and use the same wire to go to the next outlet the ideal of course is not to have a deep box because the walls are so thin that's why the GFI's stick out. I have never seen the tool that is used to squish them together but it must be pretty neat it does take a good bit of effort to get the damn things together. The older campers are the same way except they don't have a removable cover the outlet clamp screws are on the outside and the cover and the outlet are one unit at least the newer ones look nicer.

[JohnB]

The clamp tool shows up on page 3 and 5 of this PDF flyer. Most likely a $100 to $125 crimper. http://tools.passandseymour.com/lite..._Bro_frame.pdf

The GFI's, yes if the screws clamp the wire inside then yes that is not a problem. I have seen/used them.

Pass and Seymor claims this about their SCD's

P&S SCDs provide connections that stand up to transport and road vibrations better than standard devices, eliminating expensive callbacks.

The question is what are they declaring standard? Standard in the SCD world or standard in the fastener receptacle world? I will say the wires are jammed down in there and the gray cover acts somewhat as a wire anti lift out device.

[mainah]

That is a pretty neat tool but I don't think I'm going to order one for my bag of tricks. I have only done maybe 3 and I used a "C" clamp and a piece of wood.

[awellis3]

Originally Posted by Drake

What do you folks use to take the chill off if you don't use the A/C reversing system or the furnace (both of which can be expensive to use for long periods of time) on your TT's ? Ceramic? Oil filled, Ben Gay applied liberally to all parts,(mostly) of the body? What.

I also do what JohnB suggested and it works great. I put a 12G, construction extension cord into my e-cord storage and ran it into the trailer. It is coiled up and stored under the sofa along with a ceramic heater. The cord exits through the mouse hole, along with the 30A. Cheap, easy and as close to fool proof as you can get (unless you give up on the cheap and easy).

Stay toasty,
Teach

[mainah]

That works great and a good ideal but you really have to look at the cable every one says heavy duty but it may only be #14 or #16 wire so if you go looking for a cord make sure you look at the jacket it should be clearly marked with the wire gauge if it's not go some where else it should say some thing like SJ 12 AMG be ready to hand over quite a few dollars.