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Old 08-11-2016, 07:51 PM   #1
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shore power and Battery charging

should my trailer battery be charging when I am connected to shore power if the breakers are off or does one of the breakers turn on the charger?
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Old 08-12-2016, 03:51 AM   #2
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There will be a breaker since the charger is 110Volt A/C.
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Old 08-12-2016, 04:24 AM   #3
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thanks

I am fairly new at this and I am trying to figure everything out
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Old 08-12-2016, 05:25 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireleu6169 View Post
I am fairly new at this and I am trying to figure everything out
We were all new at one time so questions are welcome.
There should be in your power center that needs to be on. To be sure your battery is charging is to use a multimeter(they're cheap) and check battery at terminals. Battery at rest should be around 12.5 volts. Battery charging should be around 13.5 volts. Also some RVs have a battery disconnect switch, make sure that's on.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:26 AM   #5
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Also, if you have a battery condition indicator with 4 lights, when you push the button to see the condition, the 4th light will be on if the battery's charging. Three when the charge is off and you have full batteries.
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Old 08-12-2016, 08:18 AM   #6
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Many camper chargers are directly connected to the incoming power line and they relay on the down stream breaker not the camper load center. The reason of course is to make sure every thing works when you plug it in with out having to turn on a switch. Breakers all they have an on/off but are not really intended to be a switch for repeated use. Some campers chargers are behind a camper load center breaker so that is some thing you would have to check. If your TV has a factory tow package with a 7 pin connection it most likely has a factory isolator relay that turns off the charge circuit so that you don't kill the TV battery while it 's plugged into the parked camper. So no it will not charge the TV battery with the key off.
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Old 08-12-2016, 08:55 AM   #7
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Your trailer has 4 electric systems: 110vac, 12vdc, trailer brakes, and stop/turn/tail/marker.

Stop/turn/tail/marker are normally not interconnected with the rest of the trailer's electrical systems. They are driven exclusively by the tow vehicle through the 7 pin connector at the rear of the car or truck.

Similarly, the trailer brakes rely on the tow vehicle for normal activation. However, they are also required to be connected to the trailer's 12vdc battery and the break-away switch. In the event that the trailer and tow vehicle become separated, the break-away switch is activated and locks up the trailer brakes preventing the trailer from rolling very far.

The 110vac system is not terribly different from residential wiring. Power comes in via the shore line and goes directly to a small circuit breaker panel. Each circuit breaker feeds a different circuit in the trailer. Typically, one for the air conditioner, one for the microwave, one (or more) for the 110vac outlets in the trailer, one for the 110vac side of the of the water heater, and one for the convertor. The newer convertors can supply 12vdc to the trailer's 12vdc systems without the need for a battery, however older ones require the battery to be in the circuit.

The 12vdc system powers the interior and exterior lights, AM/FM radio, control circuitry for the fridge and water heater, monitor panel, and vent fan.

The convertor changes 110vac to 12vdc and charges the trailer battery. Normally, the 110vac systems require the shore line to be plugged in to an appropriate source.

Some folks install an inverter which converts 12vdc to 110vac. They're not real efficient and can draw a battery down in a real hurry in not carefully used. Generally, Sunlines did not come from the factory with an inverter installed. Therefore, without an inverter, it is not possible to run any of the 110vac outlets or appliances from the trailer battery.

Your fridge and water heater can run on 110vac or propane. In either mode, they both need 12vdc for their control circuitry.

Except for long term storage, I have never turned a convertor off. There really is no need to do so.
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Old 08-12-2016, 06:25 PM   #8
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They are 60 amp 240 volt boxes with a jump to make them 4 circuit 30 amp 120 so with the microwave running and an AC kicking on you are at the limit of 30 amps. When was your camper built? Mid 90's early 2000 things started to change with all of the electrical systems as far as chargers,fridges,water heaters so on. My 1990 camper's charger was direct wired to the power cable as was my older motor home none of my appliances require 12 volts to run so the vintage may determine your answer. All of the ferroresonant (old and heavy) chargers did not require a battery to light the lights some early switching supplies did.
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Old 08-16-2016, 08:07 PM   #9
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Terrific concise summary, Steve. Wish we'd had this to hand when we first brought our Sunline home...

The only thing I might add is that the furnace also utilizes 12VDC for its control circuit and, as needed, for its fan.

GREAT to see you back and posting regularly to the forum!
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Old 08-24-2016, 09:15 PM   #10
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Thanks for all the help, next up is solar pwr and an inverter for my CPAP machine
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Old 01-04-2018, 08:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireleu6169 View Post
next up is solar pwr and an inverter for my CPAP machine
Have you had a chance to add the inverter? How did you set up your solution?
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