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10-23-2012, 11:48 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 13
SUN #4451
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Water heater tank
Any suggestions on repairing the 6 gallon aluminum water heater tank? I have what looks to be a very small hole in mine that may or may not be from corrosion or pitting. I'm eventually going to replace either the tank or the whole heater. Just want to patch it for now til I can get some cash together and do it right. It's a 16' 1981 Sunline 16 RD. Not sure what that actually means but it's a great little camper. No leaks, pretty solid, and everything works (except the tank, of course). Planning on trying my luck with JB Waterweld as my first line of attack. Any suggestions? Amy I wasting my time? Any comments welcome.
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10-24-2012, 06:30 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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JB weld is good stuff but usually what happens to them is pin holes in the bottom of the tank from all the crud that's left in there after it's drained why the drain is not on the bottom is beyond me. I believe they are aluminum plated steel so once the holes start it never ends. The tanks are only like $30 or so less then a new heater and a bit more of a pain to replace.
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10-24-2012, 06:36 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 13
SUN #4451
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I'm sure it will probably only be a temporary patch but I'm thinking it will buy me at least a little time.
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10-24-2012, 08:15 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 107
SUN #4353
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IMHO, bypass the leaker for now and replace. how long has it been a leaker?
as mainah stated , the drain is not in the bottom, but the pin holes ARE !
spend the time fixin the floor under the heater, like I had to on our 81 1950.
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Wayne & Sandy
1981 19.5 SB Sunline
1987 C 851 Sunline
1997 E-150 4.2 v6
1976 F-150 4.9 I6
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10-24-2012, 08:53 AM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 13
SUN #4451
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WASA, I know where the hole is and where the drain is. If they were reversed I would be a much happier man. LOL. It hasnt been leaking. It just started. So the floor is fine. Its not been used for a while and was bone dry when I got it. While we are on the subject, any way to bypass the water heater itself and just "rough it" with cold water? At least til I get the tank replaced?
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10-24-2012, 10:06 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 107
SUN #4353
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Good news!
Yes, you can bypass the heater ( just like while winterizing ) I have added the "kit" so all I do is turn valves, But for now remove the swivel nuts from the tank and connect them together with a male nipple, or a line with two males if theres no slack in the lines
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Wayne & Sandy
1981 19.5 SB Sunline
1987 C 851 Sunline
1997 E-150 4.2 v6
1976 F-150 4.9 I6
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10-24-2012, 05:42 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WASA 1500
Good news!
Yes, you can bypass the heater ( just like while winterizing ) I have added the "kit" so all I do is turn valves, But for now remove the swivel nuts from the tank and connect them together with a male nipple, or a line with two males if theres no slack in the lines
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This^ just get a winterizing kit and bypass the entire tank once you get every thing fixed it makes winterizing a lot easier. There is a little device you can hook to your hose to wash the tank out don't know if it works or not leaves a lot of questions seems like all it would do is stir every thing up. Me I would not mind pulling a plug on the bottom of the tank even if I had to lay on the ground.
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10-25-2012, 12:30 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 13
SUN #4451
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Put the JB on yesterday. I don't think it's going to work. Tomorrow I perform a water heaterectomy. I'll just bypass it til I can afford a replacement next month probably. Anyone know about the gas line? Am I going to need to cap it or something in order to use the gas while the heater unit is gone?
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10-25-2012, 05:04 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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They do make a cap for the gas flare fitting a good hardware store should have them.
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10-25-2012, 06:44 PM
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#10
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,658
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon
Anyone know about the gas line? Am I going to need to cap it or something in order to use the gas while the heater unit is gone?
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I'm assuming yours has copper flares.
If so go looking for this flared plug. Lowes had it. If you plug off the line and ever want to use the gas valve in the future as a spare etc. use electrical tape over the gas valve fitting to keep the dirt out. Dirt will kill that valve.
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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10-26-2012, 06:48 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 13
SUN #4451
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Thanks for all the help. I think I'm going to leave the heater in til I decide to replace it. In the meantime tried a different patch that I think may work. I'll know for sure Monday. If not, I have a lead on some cheap tanks that might make it worth my while to replace the tank rather than the whole unit. Just need to figure out the model of the heater. I'll keep you posted.
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10-26-2012, 07:11 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 33
SUN #3623
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Safest bet is to bypass it or replace - but you could try a self tapping screw with some sealant on the threads.
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10-26-2012, 09:18 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 13
SUN #4451
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Thats pretty much what I did. I dont know what model water heater I have, though. The water heater itself seems to work fine and removal/replacement of the tank looks pretty straight forward (for me, anyway). The problem is that there are a gajillion different 6 gallon tank configurations and I dont know the model of the Atwood heater I have. the info inside the compartment is worn away. Its an 81 16 RD if that makes any difference.
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10-26-2012, 09:39 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 33
SUN #3623
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Mine is a 21RB 1982. I am on vacation and won't be home for another two weeks but if someone doesn't help you out with a model number suggestion I will let you know what my model number is when I get home. Your 1981 16 Rear Dinette might sport the same heater... I guess you don't have any owners literature in the camper relating to the water tank.
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10-27-2012, 06:45 AM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 13
SUN #4451
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Thanks. It's a 1981 17 foot. I have an owners manual but it's generic and has several different models in it. I can get a brand new Atwood tank on Amazon for 160 bucks and free shipping. Well worth the repair if its the right one.
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10-27-2012, 05:37 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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Complete heaters are running about $250. The tanks are a bit of a pain to replace and you'll have to barrow or fabricate a tool to install the retainer that holds the tank to the panel.
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10-29-2012, 05:18 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 13
SUN #4451
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Well, I used the JB Weld, let it cure for a few days. Looked at my awesome handiwork, hooked up the water, and sprayed water all over the floor when the patch broke. Oh well. I bit the bullet this evening and bought a new Atwood Mobile Products 96110 Pilot Ignition Water Heater - 6 Gallon from Amazon for 195 bucks after points and using free shipping. If its too big (which I doubt) we'll make it fit. If its too small we'll fill it in. Looks like a pretty straight forward install, though. I'll keep you posted.
And I guess I had it wrong. Mine is actually an RB, not an RD. Im guessing that means Rear Bath?
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10-29-2012, 05:27 PM
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#18
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon
And I guess I had it wrong. Mine is actually an RB, not an RD. Im guessing that means Rear Bath?
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Yep!
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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10-29-2012, 05:29 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 13
SUN #4451
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Yeah. Thats what it is. In the mean time, while waiting on my new water heater, I started cedar lining the closet. Im thinking it looks so good I may do the walls outside in pine or something. Dont want the whole thing smelling like a gerbil cage. But a little does make it smell nice.
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11-06-2012, 01:28 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 13
SUN #4451
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Well, I replaced the whole water heater unit last week. Easier than I thought. Entire job took less than an hour if you dont count the various water and gas leak checks. Got the heater for a song, too. 195 bucks off Amazon with free shipping and a few Amazon points. Picked up a diverter kit, too. That should be in sometime this week. I'll install that along with the new paneling. Still trying to figure out how to put pictures on here. When I do I'll post them.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions and help.
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