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03-23-2011, 08:25 PM
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#21
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 2,040
SUN #897
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Drake,
Here's a picture of the fitting that I used, to connect the pex to the WH..
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03-23-2011, 08:32 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 210
SUN #1340
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EMD I'm thinkin' we're not communicating on the definitions of clamps and fittings. The clamp, I assume is what I will use to attach the hose to the fittings. The fittings are the things that screw together...like that connect the actual heater to the hose that I attached that fitting to the the end of with a clamp????
Lordy, I just proofread this and had to laugh....I'm not sure I know what I mean any more. I'll just wait til the new heater comes and see what I can tell by what's on the back of the heater...So stay tuned!!!!
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'88 T3200
Permanently situated in Charlotte County VA
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03-23-2011, 08:36 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 210
SUN #1340
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EMD ....NOW YER TALKIN' !!! I saw those in Lowes today. How many do I need? Just two? I'll get 3/8ths and 1/2 in just to be sure! And the clamps are silver and look kinda like minature radiator clamps right?
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'88 T3200
Permanently situated in Charlotte County VA
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03-24-2011, 09:57 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 351
SUN #549
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There are two different styles of clamping rings for PEX.
One is a solid copper ring which generally appears black in color.
The other looks very much like a miniature stainless hose clamp. There is a box-shaped protrusion on the ring which is used to tighten the clamp. For the automotive inclined, these look a lot like what is used on many CV joint boots.
The clamp you can use depends on your tool. The one Steve Collins posted uses the copper rings, while the one Gary posted uses the stainless rings. There is also another tool available which looks very much like the one Gary posted (blue, grey & black) that uses the copper rings. So the best thing to do is check the tool you purchased and see which one it requires.
Which style ring is better is a religious debate in plumbing circles
- Frank
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03-24-2011, 11:07 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 210
SUN #1340
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Thanks Frank....sounds like you are either a plumber yourself or have a brother in law who is a plumber that makes you help him from time to time.
Yes...the pinch clamps are used for the tool pictured and the crimp rings will go back on the shelf at Lowes.
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'88 T3200
Permanently situated in Charlotte County VA
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03-24-2011, 07:05 PM
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#26
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 2,040
SUN #897
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Hey Drake,
The rings I used, had a raised spot on them and the crimping tool goes over it, parallel to the ring. When you squeeze the handles of the tool together, it pulls the ring tight around the pipe. In automotive applications, those type of rings are called keystone clamps. The ones that I used in Sunny, look like this:
Also, Every RV I've looked in, used 1/2" pex for the water lines.
As far as the fittings go, I had to replace the swivel fittings because my factory plastic ones were leaking badly. I haven't had much luck, with the original factory "Flair-it" style fittings.
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03-24-2011, 07:07 PM
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#27
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 2,040
SUN #897
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By the way Drake, Are you able to attend the Sunline Buttonwood M&G in June?
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03-24-2011, 07:41 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 210
SUN #1340
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EMD...Again thanks for all the trouble you in particular have gone to, to set me straight on this clamp/pex/crimp/1/2 in/dadblamed thing. I think I have all the info I need now to go back to Lowes and buy the right fittings, and go forth to tackle the job. You are a champ!
Re. Buttonwood...nope June is pretty booked up for me...new and first grandaughter you see.... plus I am pemanantly situated with my 88' Seville. I'd die of a heart attack before I could pull that monster onto the street!!! She's an oldie, but a goodie. I'd be so jealous of you guys and gals sportin' around in your mobile Sunnys, I might blow a gasket.
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'88 T3200
Permanently situated in Charlotte County VA
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03-26-2011, 08:43 AM
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#29
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 2,040
SUN #897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drake
I'd be so jealous of you guys and gals sportin' around in your mobile Sunnys, I might blow a gasket.
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You are still always welcome to come up, for a visit!
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03-29-2011, 10:18 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,515
SUN #768
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Drake,
Here is a picture looking at the back of the water heater to give you an idea of what the water connections look like and in the background is the 110 volt connection if you have the electric heater element.
That "little" split near the top is why I changed the tank!
{edit} DUH! , I reread your PM and you don't have the electric heating element in your new unit.
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Gene & DW Ginny
2002 Sunline T-2363
2008 Toyota 4-runner 4wd 4.7L V-8
Reese Dual Cam straightline - P3 Brake controller
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03-29-2011, 10:32 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,515
SUN #768
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One more picture showing the bypass valve at the bottom and the fitting that screws into the cold water inlet and then you connect the white screw on compression fitting with the PEX line. I had the advantage of having a storage compartment door right next to the water heater.
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Gene & DW Ginny
2002 Sunline T-2363
2008 Toyota 4-runner 4wd 4.7L V-8
Reese Dual Cam straightline - P3 Brake controller
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