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Old 05-09-2008, 04:12 PM   #1
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reysaint
Bearing Buddy (or similar) dust caps

Hi,

I have a 2007 T-1950 Sunline Travel Trailer. Prior to travelling north for the summer, I had a local Florida RV dealer repack the bearings. All went well until I got home and noticed that both axle dust covers were missing on the door side of the trailer.

I returned to the RV dealership on my way back north and showed the technician the missing caps. He did not know why the dust caps had come off.

He replaced the dust caps with two new ones. I left the dealership and stopped for gas about 50 miles north of the dealership and noticed that the two NEW dust caps had come off AGAIN.

Where can I get replacement dust caps and does anyone have any idea why the same side caps keep coming off.

This was the first time that the bearings were repacked since this is a new 2007 trailer.

Ray
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Old 05-09-2008, 11:58 PM   #2
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Hi Ray

Before I try to list potential problems on how you lost your cap and what causes it, I need to make sure which one you are refering too. You said "dust" cap and then you also use "Bearing buddy" Which are technically 2 differnt things wihit 2 different reassons they all off from.

Which one are you missing?

The black plastic dust cover that looks like this in the middle of these wheels?


OR the actual grease cap covering over the bearing that looks like this shinny silver cap in the middle of these brake drums?


And do you have Dexter or Alko alxes?

Thanks

John
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Old 05-10-2008, 05:40 AM   #3
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Hi John,

I am not sure wether the axle is an Al-Ko or Dexter. Where would I get this information?

The trailer is a 2007 T-1950 Solaris.

The caps I am referring to is the same as the top picture and has the rubber cap when removed shows the zerk fitting.

I checked the Sunline binder that came with the trailer, but could not find any information on the axle.

Ray
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Old 05-10-2008, 05:47 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Hi Ray

Before I try to list potential problems on how you lost your cap and what causes it, I need to make sure which one you are refering too. You said "dust" cap and then you also use "Bearing buddy" Which are technically 2 differnt things wihit 2 different reassons they all off from.

Which one are you missing?

The black plastic dust cover that looks like this in the middle of these wheels?


OR the actual grease cap covering over the bearing that looks like this shinny silver cap in the middle of these brake drums?


And do you have Dexter or Alko alxes?

Thanks

John
Hi John,

I just looked under my 2007 T-1950 Sunline and saw a vinyl sticker attached to the bottom of the axle. The same sticker was under both axles.

The axle manufacturer is Lippert Components, Inc. And their web site www.lci1.com.

The sticker states that it is Model#LCI35 (3500 lbs) and it was manufactured May 26, 2006.

Their web site has all sorts of information. If anyone out there has a 2007 Sunline, it probably has the Lippert Components axle.

I always thought Sunline used only Dexter or Al-Ko axels.

Has anyone else heard of this company. Three months after I picked up my trailer from the factory they closed. So much for warrantees!

Ray
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Old 05-10-2008, 09:20 PM   #5
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Ray we had Lippert on the 06 T1950 and if I'm not mistaken we have them on the 07 T2499.

As far as you picking up your TT and them closing 3 months later - there are MANY of us on the forum who purchased ours knowing they where closed and wanted to upgrade before it was too late.

Just remember, Sunline basically warrantied the "box or shell" everything else is warrantied by the manufacturer.

Take for instance the Dometic refrigerator recall - Dometic is doing the fix at an authorized service center, we had a problem with our Atwood stove and a "authorized Atwood service center" did the warranty work on that sooo.....I would not worry too much about "warranty work".

And "technical support" - well we have some of the most knowledgeable people right on this forum....trust me I've asked and gotten answers faster than you can shack a stick at!!!!!
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Old 05-11-2008, 12:38 AM   #6
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Ray

Thanks for the Lipert info as they make a number of the Sunline frames also. I did look up the Lipert axle and it is very similar to the Dexter or Alko alxe setup. The basic electric brake setup/alxe hub.

However I did not catch in your note if you are having issues with the actual grease end cap over the bearings or the plastic hub dust cover that covers over the actual bearing hub to make it look pretty and keep dirt off this area. Trying to help best I can but do not know which you are refering to.

Thanks

John
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Old 05-11-2008, 06:23 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Ray

Thanks for the Lipert info as they make a number of the Sunline frames also. I did look up the Lipert axle and it is very similar to the Dexter or Alko alxe setup. The basic electric brake setup/alxe hub.

However I did not catch in your note if you are having issues with the actual grease end cap over the bearings or the plastic hub dust cover that covers over the actual bearing hub to make it look pretty and keep dirt off this area. Trying to help best I can but do not know which you are refering to.

Thanks

John
John,

May dust cap is not plastic. It is metal with a rubber insert that allows you to remove to get access to the zerk fitting it is the cap that keeps water and dirt out of the bearing.

In my earlier post I noted how on two different occasions to caps came off on the road.

Not sure why this happened. I will call Lippert tomorrow and order the new caps.

I went to an RV/boat dealer yesterday and noted most of the axles in the yard had the same dust caps as on my axle.

Ray
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Old 05-12-2008, 12:11 AM   #8
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Ray

OH.... you have Eaz Lube type axles. Now I know what you have. The black rubber plug is what you are loosing.

One man's dust cap is another man's rubber plug....

OK now what. H'mm good question. Do not know on that one. They usually have a groove in the rubber that snaps in around the inner edge of the steel grease cap.

And yes a large number of boat trailers use this type of grease-able setup to keep water out of the bearing when submerging the trailer. Dexter actually made these initially just for boar trailers but they have now found there way to cargo trailers and TT,'s PU's etc.

Let us know how you make out.

John
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Old 05-12-2008, 09:26 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Ray

OH.... you have Eaz Lube type axles. Now I know what you have. The black rubber plug is what you are loosing.

One man's dust cap is another man's rubber plug....

OK now what. H'mm good question. Do not know on that one. They usually have a groove in the rubber that snaps in around the inner edge of the steel grease cap.

And yes a large number of boat trailers use this type of grease-able setup to keep water out of the bearing when submerging the trailer. Dexter actually made these initially just for boar trailers but they have now found there way to cargo trailers and TT,'s PU's etc.

Let us know how you make out.

John
Hi John,

It is not only the rubber plug but the housing (metal retainer) that keeps coming off.

Ray
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Old 05-12-2008, 11:56 AM   #10
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Ray,

From reading through your posts and replys it seems to me you're losing the whole 'bearing protector' or as I like to call them, 'bearing buddies'. I'm assuming what you're seeing is the castle nut and cotter pin (greasy and dirty looking end to the axle) when your protectors come off during travel.

Sounds to me like a heat problem that could be caused by a number of things. The hub(s) is heating up to the point where the whole unit is expanding and allowing the contact point where the protectors meet the hub to be loosened(there's probably a little pressure built up as well from heated grease)... and the protectors fly off!

Probable Causes...
Damaged drive frame... misalignment(doubtful)
Improperly adjusted brake tension
Improper tire inflation
Bearing failure or axle damage

Not sure what you'd like to do yourself and what you'd like to pursue as far as your warantee. I just did a complete bearing and seal replacement on my newly acquired 92' 2053 Sunline last week as well as a brake/drum/magnet inspection during the process, my 1st project for piece of mind in starting to use my 'new to me' trailer.

You can buy the protectors at a number of places... my local walmart sells them near the hitches and generic trailer items, tractor supply co, any trailer specialty store will also have them, you may even find them at a Lowes or Home Depot, just make sure you get the right size as they do come in a variety of diameters. Take the dust cover(the rubbery cup that covers the bearing protector) off the driver's side along with you to the store. That should give you a good reference.

Everything you need to know and more about your trailer I found here...
http://www.lci1.com/Service%20Owners...20Axle-Web.pdf

Again I'm just not sure how much 'do it yourself' work you'd like to embark upon... it can be a chore removing and getting new bearing cups(races) into your hub. In order to inspect the inside bearing fully, you have to remove the seal and in which case it's best to replace everything while it's unsealed.

I'd be happy to help as much as I can with any other questions you might have regarding your axles/hubs.

Regards,
Jason
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Old 05-12-2008, 07:03 PM   #11
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Ray,

Do you have the "white" wagon wheel style rims or the Aluminum sport wheels ? The reason I'm asking is the white rims have the plastic center cap and the aluminum rims have the metal center cap with a removable cap for access to the rubber seal to access the zerk fitting. Here is a not so good pic of my aluminum wheels:


Here is a better shot of my rims & center caps, but notice I have glued Sunline emblems on the removable black plastic cap.


I had to replace one of my center caps, so IF mine are like yours, I think I have the order info out in the trailer, and I can look for it.

Kitty


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Old 05-12-2008, 07:16 PM   #12
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reysaint
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lode
Ray,

From reading through your posts and replys it seems to me you're losing the whole 'bearing protector' or as I like to call them, 'bearing buddies'. I'm assuming what you're seeing is the castle nut and cotter pin (greasy and dirty looking end to the axle) when your protectors come off during travel.

Sounds to me like a heat problem that could be caused by a number of things. The hub(s) is heating up to the point where the whole unit is expanding and allowing the contact point where the protectors meet the hub to be loosened(there's probably a little pressure built up as well from heated grease)... and the protectors fly off!

Probable Causes...
Damaged drive frame... misalignment(doubtful)
Improperly adjusted brake tension
Improper tire inflation
Bearing failure or axle damage

Not sure what you'd like to do yourself and what you'd like to pursue as far as your warantee. I just did a complete bearing and seal replacement on my newly acquired 92' 2053 Sunline last week as well as a brake/drum/magnet inspection during the process, my 1st project for piece of mind in starting to use my 'new to me' trailer.

You can buy the protectors at a number of places... my local walmart sells them near the hitches and generic trailer items, tractor supply co, any trailer specialty store will also have them, you may even find them at a Lowes or Home Depot, just make sure you get the right size as they do come in a variety of diameters. Take the dust cover(the rubbery cup that covers the bearing protector) off the driver's side along with you to the store. That should give you a good reference.

Everything you need to know and more about your trailer I found here...
http://www.lci1.com/Service%20Owners...20Axle-Web.pdf

Again I'm just not sure how much 'do it yourself' work you'd like to embark upon... it can be a chore removing and getting new bearing cups(races) into your hub. In order to inspect the inside bearing fully, you have to remove the seal and in which case it's best to replace everything while it's unsealed.

I'd be happy to help as much as I can with any other questions you might have regarding your axles/hubs.

Regards,
Jason
Hi Jason,

Thank you very much for the information.

I called Lippert Components today and explained my problem. They said that the hup protectors are hard to install and to make sure they are properly attached with a rubber mallet.

They receive many e-mails with the same problem. They are sending me new covers.

I checked Walmart and Lowes for the caps and what they have is not the same as what is on the trailer.

Heat on the axle is not the problem as I physically check them often when stopping for gas. Also, I am a stickler with regard to tire pressure and check them frequently.

Bottom line is that they were not attached properly in the first place.

:P Ray
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:06 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reysaint

Bottom line is that they were not attached properly in the first place.

:P Ray
The thought crossed my mind, just surprised that a technician would not do the job right twice. What a shame. I wonder about is why it'd happen two times and on the same two tires. Which leads me to be suspect to exactly what they did when they 'repacked' your bearings in the first place. Hopefully not something that voids the manufacturer's warranty.

At any rate, I hope your replacement buddies reinstalled properly solves your current dilema... I've never had any luck with a rubber mallet and use a cut of 2x4 and a hand held sledge hammer to seat the protector to the recess point. If you see it wobble when you spin the wheel... something's not right.

Any other questions, I'm happy to share my experience.

Best of luck,
Jason
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:34 PM   #14
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reysaint
Quote:
Originally Posted by kanyonkitty
Ray,

Do you have the "white" wagon wheel style rims or the Aluminum sport wheels ? The reason I'm asking is the white rims have the plastic center cap and the aluminum rims have the metal center cap with a removable cap for access to the rubber seal to access the zerk fitting. Here is a not so good pic of my aluminum wheels:


Here is a better shot of my rims & center caps, but notice I have glued Sunline emblems on the removable black plastic cap.


I had to replace one of my center caps, so IF mine are like yours, I think I have the order info out in the trailer, and I can look for it.

Kitty

Hi Kitty,

I have the standard white steel wheels. The center of the dust cap is rubber and not plastic. Once the rubber center is removed, it exposes the zerk grease fitting.

I was able to replace the covers from Lippert Components the OEM supplier for my Sunline T-1950 axle.

Thank you for your help.

Ray




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Old 05-13-2008, 12:20 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reysaint

Hi John,

It is not only the rubber plug but the housing (metal retainer) that keeps coming off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by reysaint
I called Lippert Components today and explained my problem. They said that the hup protectors are hard to install and to make sure they are properly attached with a rubber mallet.

They receive many e-mails with the same problem. They are sending me new covers.

I checked Walmart and Lowes for the caps and what they have is not the same as what is on the trailer.

Heat on the axle is not the problem as I physically check them often when stopping for gas. Also, I am a stickler with regard to tire pressure and check them frequently.

Bottom line is that they were not attached properly in the first place.

:P Ray
Ray, Ok now we know what you are referring to. Reading thru the posts here, the metal end grease caps are normally about a 0.003 to 0.005” press fit. You do have to drive it on. If the prior tech installed it wrong, and that is what Lipert is saying, well the only thing I can think of is they drove it on crooked and egg shaped it on the way on. Which will not be a 360 degree press fit, may even be less then 180 degree pending how messed up they did it. Since these geaseable ones have an open center for the rubber insert the metal ring can distort more as there is no center support where the hole is I would think.

Since the tapered bearing races uses the same bore as the grease cap and the outer race way bore fit is machined to 4 decimal places I would estimate the bore cannot be that messed up or you will have bearing issues.

When you remove the old one, look real close at the OD of it in the press fit area. If it was installed wrong you should be able to see it not being a 360 degree scrape when it was pressed in.

I would also caution a really good look at the grease if you have been driving around with no bearing cap on. If you picked up some dirt, the bearing can go in accelerated record time. If you find dirt, a flush out and grease repacking will be needed.

I agree with Lode about the wood block. I use a 2 x 4 and then tap it. The force goes all around the outside ring even if you do not hit the block exactly perfect

Here is a pic doing this..


If you want more on brake/axle relube help, see this post of mine. It might help. I was going to update this and post over here on Sunline Club, but have not made it to it yet. Axle Relube

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

John
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Old 05-13-2008, 05:22 AM   #16
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reysaint
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Quote:
Originally Posted by reysaint

Hi John,

It is not only the rubber plug but the housing (metal retainer) that keeps coming off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by reysaint
I called Lippert Components today and explained my problem. They said that the hup protectors are hard to install and to make sure they are properly attached with a rubber mallet.

They receive many e-mails with the same problem. They are sending me new covers.

I checked Walmart and Lowes for the caps and what they have is not the same as what is on the trailer.

Heat on the axle is not the problem as I physically check them often when stopping for gas. Also, I am a stickler with regard to tire pressure and check them frequently.

Bottom line is that they were not attached properly in the first place.

:P Ray
Ray, Ok now we know what you are referring to. Reading thru the posts here, the metal end grease caps are normally about a 0.003 to 0.005” press fit. You do have to drive it on. If the prior tech installed it wrong, and that is what Lipert is saying, well the only thing I can think of is they drove it on crooked and egg shaped it on the way on. Which will not be a 360 degree press fit, may even be less then 180 degree pending how messed up they did it. Since these geaseable ones have an open center for the rubber insert the metal ring can distort more as there is no center support where the hole is I would think.

Since the tapered bearing races uses the same bore as the grease cap and the outer race way bore fit is machined to 4 decimal places I would estimate the bore cannot be that messed up or you will have bearing issues.

When you remove the old one, look real close at the OD of it in the press fit area. If it was installed wrong you should be able to see it not being a 360 degree scrape when it was pressed in.

I would also caution a really good look at the grease if you have been driving around with no bearing cap on. If you picked up some dirt, the bearing can go in accelerated record time. If you find dirt, a flush out and grease repacking will be needed.

I agree with Lode about the wood block. I use a 2 x 4 and then tap it. The force goes all around the outside ring even if you do not hit the block exactly perfect

Here is a pic doing this..


If you want more on brake/axle relube help, see this post of mine. It might help. I was going to update this and post over here on Sunline Club, but have not made it to it yet. Axle Relube

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

John
John,

Great idea using a 2x4 block. I will let you know when they come in.

Ray
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