Wiring pics

[Tommie328]

Thanks Tommie

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[JohnGB]

This bundle of wires at the battery "could be" for. Need a closer pic of the bundle, it is sort of all jumbled around the 2 fuses to tell.

One fuse is for the truck charging fuse. One wire off the fuse holder would go into the 7 wire cable. This is often a 30 amp fuse and they both looks green which is commonly a 30 amp in those style fuses.

The other fuse which I am "assuming" will go to the large heavy red wire that heads into the camper and ends up at the fuse panel. This is the main 30 amp fuse to protect the battery, converter and the wire itself.

This pic is your 12 volt circuit fuse strip.

The 4 glass fuses that have black wires on the bottom are for qty 4, 12 volt circuits in the camper. Have no idea which device is on what circuit fuse as they are not marked. They call that fuse group A on their little diagram.

This is going to be a search and destroy mission. Pull out each glass fuse one at a time and see what stops working. (shut power off before pulling then turn back on is best on these old glass fuses. Write it down what is on what fuse and go to the next one. When your done, everything should end up on one of those 4 glass fuses.

They have a 5th fuse open slot the call B in their little diagram. That is an unused circuit as there is no wire leaving the fuse block on the bottom.

One of those 4 glass fuses runs the power to your new USB charger and other devices yet to be determined.

Great pics by the way.

Hope this helps

John

 

[Tommie328]

See if this one is better.

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[Tommie328]

See if this one is better.

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The black wire at the bottom with the red cap was for the Breakaway switch that one of the previous owners cut. The other two fused wires I am assuming are positive wires coming from inside the camper

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[JohnGB]

The black wire at the bottom with the red cap was for the Breakaway switch that one of the previous owners cut. The other two fused wires I am assuming are positive wires coming from inside the camper

See this pic as to my "thoughts" on what "might" be what you have. You will have to trace this out to be sure.

The black wire off the 30 amp fuse holder, that is most likely truck charge line and the wire should end up going into the 7 wire cable to the truck.

The red wire off the other 30 amp fuse holder most likely goes to the fuse panel inside the camper.

Then there is a mystery wire, it is black and in front of your battery case. This "might" have been the power feed to the emergency break away switch OR may a prior electric tongue jack? You said they cut the small wire with the red wire nut on it as the old break away switch but I do not know which end that is. The power feed end of the switch or the wire that goes to the brake wires.

This pic in your album shows a mystery wire with a ring eye terminal on the end hanging out of the battery case. See it on the right side? What is that for?

See here for my thoughts on the wires. Let us know how this goes. Before you start towing we need to help you get that breakaway switch working again. If the switch is bad, we can link you a Bargmen replacement easy.

Hope this helps

John

 

[Tommie328]

The black wire off the 30 amp fuse holder, that is most likely truck charge line and the wire should end up going into the 7 wire cable to the truck.

The red wire off the other 30 amp fuse holder most likely goes to the fuse panel inside the camper.
I believe you are correct here.

This pic in your album shows a mystery wire with a ring eye terminal on the end hanging out of the battery case. See it on the right side? What is that for?
This one is the positive connector that connects to the battery. The battery was not installed when that picture was taken. I take the battery out at night to prevent theft.

See here for my thoughts on the wires. Let us know how this goes. Before you start towing we need to help you get that breakaway switch working again. If the switch is bad, we can link you a Bargmen replacement easy.
I was told by the guy that I bought it from that the break lines have been cut/disconnected. I will have to take the trailer to a trailer shop to get the brakes done.

Here is what I found with the fuses.
1. Front lights, utility light, USB Socket charger, bathroom light, receptacles.
2. Back lights, kitchen light, stove light and stove vent.
3. ???
4. Door handle light and pump
5. ???

The furnace fan could not be tested. I do not have any propane right now. Not sure about the AC either.

Thank you so much for your time and help.

Tommie

 

[JohnGB]

Hi Tommie,

You mentioned, 1. Front lights, utility light, USB Socket charger, bathroom light, receptacles.

What are the "receptacles" on the 12 volt DC? We need to figure out what that is as it might be a larger load.

Is your fridge a combo of both electric and gas? And does it have electronic gas ignition or do you have to go light a pilot light? Point being, I did not see the fridge shown on a fuse.

The furnace, it is OK to turn the furnace on to test it even with no LP gas. The furnace blower runs for maybe a minute to purge any fumes before it try's to ignite the gas burner. Just let it run a few seconds to know it's on that circuit and then turn it off. Odds are high, the furnace may be on it's own fuse as the power draw of the fan motor is one of the biggest DC loads in the camper.

Your hot water heater, is it an all gas unit? Means you go outside and light the pilot and turn on the gas valve by hand?

The roof AC unit, well this one you need shore power plugged in to test the fan motor. You will not have enough power in your small extension cord to run the entire compressor and all. However if you leave the 120 VAC unplugged and just use the battery, if you turn on the AC unit and lower the temp on the T stat, you may be able to hear a click of the power relay turning on the fan motor. Naturally the motor will not run but you can hear the click. The AC unit uses both 120 VAC to run the big power stuff, the fan motor and the compressor but all the controls are 12 V DC. So the click can tell you if that fuse is for the AC unit if it works with the fuse in and not click with the fuse out. It is a faint click and only happens once per turn on. If your T stat has a fan only mode, then turn it to fan and give it a try. Hopefully you will hear the click.

Hope this helps

John

 

[JohnGB]

5. ???

No. 5 is not doing anything. It is a spare. There is no wire attached to the downstream side of the fuse. You can check that one off the list.

 

[Tommie328]

You mentioned, 1. Front lights, utility light, USB Socket charger, bathroom light, receptacles.

What are the "receptacles" on the 12 volt DC? We need to figure out what that is as it might be a larger load.
These are the wall outlets. The GFI in the back, the outlet in the kitchenette, and the outlet at the dinette. And probably the one outside and the frig. I forgot to check the frig. I don't remember if it has a light inside for me to tell if it has power. I will need to check this weekend when I have more time.

Is your fridge a combo of both electric and gas? And does it have electronic gas ignition or do you have to go light a pilot light? Point being, I did not see the fridge shown on a fuse.
It is a combo but I do not know if it has an electronic gas ignition. I do remember testing it when I got the camper home and it did cool but I don't remember if it was on electric or gas. It is a Dometic RM2300.


The furnace, it is OK to turn the furnace on to test it even with no LP gas.
I will check the furnace this weekend too.

Your hot water heater, is it an all gas unit? Means you go outside and light the pilot and turn on the gas valve by hand?
I believe the hot water heater is gas only.


I will check out the AC this weekend too.

It looks like I am going to have a busy weekend. :neutral: Being safe is time consuming.

Thanks again for all of your help.

Tommie

 

[Tommie328]

Wiring update

Here is what I found with the fuses.
1. Front lights, utility light, USB Socket charger, bathroom light.
2. Back lights, kitchen light, stove light and stove vent.
3. Furnace blower.
4. Door handle light and water pump.

The wall outlets (including the one for the frig) and the AC unit (blower) will not work at all without being plugged into shore power, regardless of which fuse is taken out. These are controlled by the circuit breaker box:
- 15 amp breaker = wall outlets
- 20 amp breaker = AC unit

The refrigerator is 2-way: propane gas and 120 electric. I haven't figured out the AC fuse yet. I did not hear a click from the AC unit for any of the fuses. Still working on that one.

At least for now, I know which fuse the USB socket charger is on and this is probably where the LP detector will end up.

Thanks,
Tommie