Wiring for 96 Solaris T-1550

[thewriterswa]

I'm looking for a wiring diagram for the 7 pin trailer side connector for my 96 Solaris T-1550. I tried wiring it according to the new connector's instructions, and the diagram provided by my truck-side connector (both of which were different), but I can't get the taillights/turn signals to work. Does Sunline provide instructions on this? None came with the camper when I bought it used. Thanks!

 

[SteveC7010]

I'm looking for a wiring diagram for the 7 pin trailer side connector for my 96 Solaris T-1550. I tried wiring it according to the new connector's instructions, and the diagram provided by my truck-side connector (both of which were different), but I can't get the taillights/turn signals to work. Does Sunline provide instructions on this? None came with the camper when I bought it used. Thanks!

Trailer Wiring Diagrams | etrailer.com

This link pretty much describes the entire 7 pin wiring. There really isn't a diagram needed for this trailer wiring. The stop, turn, and running light wires all go to their respective fixtures. There are three wires going to each stop/turn/tail fixture and the clearance lights are chained together.

The stop/turn/tail wires go from the 7 wire pigtail to the rear of the vehicle usually fastened to the frame underneath the trailer. You should be able to easily locate and trace them to the back of the trailer. At that point, they route up into the body of the trailer to the light fixtures. The trailer brake wires go directly to the axles and then the brakes.

If you have a multimeter or even just an automotive test light, you should be able to verify presence or absence of voltage at the 7 pin connector and at the light fixtures.

*IF* your tow vehicle has separate brake and turn signals, it either needs a aftermarket adapter to convert 4 wire (left, right, stop, tail) to 3 wire (left, right, tail) which is how the trailer is wired. Some of the newer vehicles have this adapter as part of their towing package.

Just so you know, Sunline never really documented this in their literature that comes with the trailer. It is industry standard wiring and hasn't changed in at least 50 years.

 

[thewriterswa]

Steve--Thanks so much, that was very helpful. I've been out at the trailer with my multimeter. Every time I plug in the pigtail, the power output from my truck stops, so I think I've got crossed wires somewhere on the trailer. Does this sound right? When I set the multimeter to signal, and touch the ground wire with the left turn or right turn wires, I get a tone, indicating that the wires are crossed somewhere, so I'll have to inspect the wires.
One other question: Does this trailer have a fuse box anywhere?
Thanks again for your insight and help. Best, Shawn.

 

[JohnGB]

I've been out at the trailer with my multimeter. Every time I plug in the pigtail, the power output from my truck stops, so I think I've got crossed wires somewhere on the trailer. Does this sound right?

Hi Shawn, h'mm what do you mean the power output from my truck stops? Are you refering to the battery charge pin? Do you mean you blow the fuse in the truck? If your blowing the fuse as soon as you plug in, somehow you have a dead short.

Comfirm you are talking about the battery charge pin and what stopped when you pluged in?

When I set the multimeter to signal, and touch the ground wire with the left turn or right turn wires, I get a tone, indicating that the wires are crossed somewhere, so I'll have to inspect the wires.

Well not necessarily. Pending what meter you have the “tone” can go off because of the resistance in the light bulb. The light bulb is a connection although it is also a load. If you pull out the light bulbs and then have a path to ground on the hot wire, well something is mixed up as the left and right turn power wires are tied to ground somewhere. If you set your meter to ohms, measure the resistance across a light bulb (and make sure it is not blown) to get a value of the ohms thru a light bulb and 2 light bulbs in parallel will be different then one. If you have a short to ground, then the resistance may be less then 5 ohms meaning a direct path to ground.

One other question: Does this trailer have a fuse box anywhere?
Thanks again for your insight and help. Best, Shawn.

Not knowing your exact setup, many campers do have 1 fuse in the battery charge line on the camper. This fuse is between the 7 wire plug and the connection to the battery some where. The purpose is if a short occurs in the TT on the truck battery charging line it trips the fuse in the camper so you do not mess up the truck or burn up the wire.

In 2004 Sunline started putting a junction box on the front of the camper and in that box was the charge line fuse. See here for mine.

The older campers had that fuse somewhere inside the camper close to the front. I do not know your model where it might be. I know Steve has a pic of his which is inside.

Good luck and hope this helps

John

 

[SteveC7010]

The older campers had that fuse somewhere inside the camper close to the front. I do not know your model where it might be. I know Steve has a pic of his which is inside.

On my trailer, the aforementioned 30 amp battery charge fuse is located in the street side front of the coach on the floor in the compartment under the couch. Obviously, it will vary from model to model, but typically, the fuse is located directly between the end of the 7-pin pigtail and the converter. On mine, the charge line of the 7-pin pigtail comes up through the floor right into the little wooden box pictured above and connects directly to the fuses. There is then a heavy red wire that goes back to the converter.

The stop/turn/tail wires and the blue brake wire never come up into the coach. From the end of the pigtail, they are spliced to matching color wires and run back to the tail lights and to the brakes.

Trace the end of your pigtail underneath the coach. Where ever the red charge wire goes up through the black mesh into the body of the trailer, you'll likely find the box. Your '96 and my '99, while different floor plans, share many common aspects. Sunline made very few changes in the second half of the '90's and wiring systems were virtually identical for the entire decade.

 

[Wjh1175]

Shawn,

Anytime i work on 12 volt systems (trailer wiring) i find it much easier to use a 12 volt test light. Attach the ground clamp to a known ground and when you touch the point to a 12V + the light will illuminate. It is much easier to see the light then look at a meter. They can be purchased at any local auto parts stores very cheap.