What Can I Really Tow? Interesting Article from Diesel Place

apackof2

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Posts
859
found this VERY interesting article on DieselPlace web site. It does pertain to a 6.5L Silverado Trubo Diesel. (mine is a 1997 3/4 ton with 3.73 axle, ext cab, long box) However, the author gives some great insight into those tow ratings and what I could REALLY tow. Based on this information about the 6.5L I figure I could pull, with some truck mods 10,000 GVWR and still be 3,000 below the 13,000 maximum. Having a GVWR of 10,000 doesn't mean you will load up to a 10,000 GVWR either.

- How much can the 6.5 (my truck) tow? It’s a diesel so it can pull anything, right?

6.5 NEWBIES - **START HERE** - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

That’s a bit of a loaded question. If you look at the “Factory” GM tow figures you may laugh your head off, or think there’s a misprint.(I certainly did) For example, my (the author) 1997 1-Ton Dually 6.5 equipped truck was rated to tow a paltry 6000 pounds.

There are people here (and especially at the RV forums) who would suggest that you never (ever!) exceed these “magical” figures, but we here at the Diesel Place look at it from a more realistic viewpoint - the 6.5 can tow a lot more then it was actually rated for. Don’t be stupid and think that you’re going to pull your friends 20,000# toy hauler fifth wheel, but don’t be afraid by the low numbers in the manual, either - the realistic truth lies somewhere in the middle.

Done right, the 6.5 (Depending on your gear ratios and factory weight of your truck, crewcab LB versus single cab SB, etc) can tow heavy loads, but it’s commonly accepted that for typical use about 13,000 LBS is the maximum, and if you tow heavy with a 6.5 GAUGES ARE ESSENTIAL! Pyrometer, engine oil temperature and transmission temperature gauges! NO EXCEPTIONS!

Unless the previous owner installed these already you’ll have to do so yourself. If you’re going to tow heavy with a 6.5, Budget it as part of your towing preparation.

A more free-flowing exhaust (discussed in the previous section) is also a wise idea to help control EGT’s which are commonly an issue when heavy hauling. Needless to say, your cooling system must also be in tip-top condition otherwise you WILL (!!!) overheat towing with a 6.5.

Part of the reason 6.5 equipped trucks were rated to tow relatively low weights was the fact that heavy loads can easily drive the engine into temperature ranges where it can hurt itself. GM put extremely low rated tow limits on 6.5 equipped trucks because at those figures, even with a clueless driver at the wheel, the truck will typically manage just fine, even without all the gauges mentioned here that the truck isn’t equipped with from the factory.

There are people that routinely pull fifth wheels weighing in the 16,000 Pound range with 6.5 equipped trucks (Equipped with 4.11 gearing, discussed below) and some that report towing equipment trailers weighing 18,000 or more, but gauges are critical as is your driving style - don’t expect to race up grades on cruise control without paying any attention to things - you will have to work within the ability of the engine and “Take your foot out of it” if the gauges indicate you’re working it too hard. Personally, I have hauled my 12,000 pound fifth wheel coast to coast, over many mountain passes, and up (and down) grades as high as 10% with my 6.5 and have been pleased with it’s performance - read about my adventures at the link below if you’re interestedd.

http://gowest.oshawapilot.ca

It’s most important to again step back and realize that the 6.5 is NOT a Cummins nor a Duramax - it will not accelerate like them, it will not pull grades like them, and it probably won't stop as well either - so use your head!

The 6.5 is a much different engine from an architecture standpoint and was not designed (nor is it capable) to handle the heaviest trailers or loads out there, so go accordingly! In other words, don’t buy an equipment float that weighs 25,000 pounds loaded and expect your 6.5 to pull it even if it’s a 1-Ton dually - you’ll have a bad experience and will probably end up breaking something.

There is a point where you have to ask yourself if what your'e trying to do is really safe, or even possible. If in question, ASK HERE - those with heavy hauling experience will be happy to offer our thoughts.

Lastly, your differential gear ratio will also drastically effect your towing ability. 6.5 equipped trucks with 3.42 ratios are very limited in what they can to tow, with the 3.73 ratio being better, (my truck) but the 4.11 ratio being the best for towing. If you are planning to tow a heavy trailer, you want the 4.11 ratio, although for moderate or occasional towing the 3.73 ratio provides a good mix between fuel efficiency (when not towing) versus towing ability but will reduce your capacity by a few thousand pounds.

If you need help identifying your gear ratio, simply make a post here in the Diesel Place 6.5 forum, or search for previous posts on the subject using the “Search” function.

Of course, for towing heavy loads, ensuring your braking system (on both the truck and trailer) are working perfectly is essential. Be smart, be wise, be careful.
 
There are other extremes on the other end also. My 4000 some thing pound Tacoma is rated 6500# that's nuts! I have no doubt I could move 10,000# but I don't think a truck that light would be happy with 6500# and neither would I!
 
Oh I hear ya. I got a little carried away with 10,000 GVWR :rolleyes:

And I think there are some mods an aftermarket 4” exhaust for example I would do first but I am thinking that 8,000 GVWR would be maximum.

I was on this Forum for about 2 1/2 hours last night and Diesel Bombers and there is a lot of information but these guys know their stuff about the 6.5.

Diesel Place did an independent study on lubricity which may not concern owners of newer trucks that were built for low sulfur fuel but if you have an older truck, you need additives. It's an older study, done twice when some questioned the results as the product they were using di not rte as high as expected, but still very informative

Lubricity Additive Study Results - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums








There are other extremes on the other end also. My 4000 some thing pound Tacoma is rated 6500# that's nuts! I have no doubt I could move 10,000# but I don't think a truck that light would be happy with 6500# and neither would I!
 
I put hundreds of thousands of miles on a VW turbo diesel if anyone is concerned about lubricity a bit of bio diesel goes a long way after all the diesels were meant to run on vegetable oil. I often wonder about people hauling huge campers I don’t know their trucks and I wonder if they really do either it’s pretty easy to hook something up that far exceeds the capability.
 
If you look at the study, 2% Biodiesel was the Number Lubricant.
Of course you can't find it everywhere so you may have to buy it via the Internet.
Another option is Marine 2-cycle oil

And I know from talking to people that many don't have a clue what they can really pull. They just listen to the salesperson trying sell them a rig who optimistically saids, "You can pull that with a 1/2 ton! :rolleyes:


[FONT=TimesNewRomanPSMT, serif]From another site, Diesel Bombers

2% biodiesel to B5 fuel is the best option, or add a gallon of whole biodiesel for 20-40 gallons of ULSD.
[/FONT][FONT=TimesNewRomanPSMT, serif]I do not recommend using higher than 5% biodiesel concentration, [/FONT][FONT=TimesNewRomanPSMT, serif]absolute max[/FONT][FONT=TimesNewRomanPSMT, serif] biodiesel concentration I[/FONT]’[FONT=TimesNewRomanPSMT, serif]d consider is B20. [/FONT]

[FONT=TimesNewRomanPSMT, serif]Simple ash-less, TCW3 2-Cycle oil is an effective additive, recommended max ratio of 200:1, 0.5% concentration, about 2oz for every 3 gallons. More than an ounce per gallon could make fuel too dark for OS to function, and 400:1 may work just as well, but 200:1 was tested. [/FONT]

[FONT=TimesNewRomanPSMT, serif]Others use [/FONT][FONT=TimesNewRomanPSMT, serif]Non-Detergent SAE30 motor oil with success, an ounce per gallon.[/FONT][FONT=TimesNewRomanPSMT, serif] Used motor oil is a bad idea with the DS4 IP, too dark for the OS, and ineffective for lubricity, with too much water, acid, and contaminants. [/FONT]


I put hundreds of thousands of miles on a VW turbo diesel if anyone is concerned about lubricity a bit of bio diesel goes a long way after all the diesels were meant to run on vegetable oil. I often wonder about people hauling huge campers I don’t know their trucks and I wonder if they really do either it’s pretty easy to hook something up that far exceeds the capability.
 

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