apackof2

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Posts
858
Will light on propane but goes off

Does not appear to work at all on electric

I had a low voltage problem at the camp I am currently at but switched sites to 50amp with 30amp pigtail

Could the low voltage have caused a problem?

Also water heater did not work on battery when I was on the road
I think my battery is gone. Its at least 5 years old

Voltage meter will not arrive until the 12th

Could it be the thermocoupler or the themostate?

Seems odd it will light even for a moment on gas but nothing in electric??

There is NO RV repair here. I am on my own with no hot water:(

HELP!!

There is a hardware store that can order the thermocoupler for my Atwood water heater GC6AA-10E
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007XS06Q/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=A2XZHTUS9WRCHQ&psc=1

This looks like the thermostat
https://www.amazon.com/Thermostat-A...958-4f52-9418-83c32e96639b&pd_rd_i=B07QR85Q1T
 
**UPDATE**

A very nice gentleman who pulled in next to me has been helping me trouble shoot the hot water heater. The water heater does work on electric Yeah!
We took out and cleaned the thermocoupler and grounds

He also checked my battery and my battery is just fine. We cleaned the connections and he installed two new connectors for me just because.

After testing everything out he believes it’s the orifice.

Problem is not sure I have the right part?

I found a very good online diagram of my water heater Atwood water heater GC6AA-10E
https://pantherrvproducts.com/water...rs/parts-breakdown/gc6aa-10e-parts-breakdown/

The part or parts I need are 9 & 10

I found the orifice holder (part#9)
https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/atwood-water-heater-burner-orifice-holder-91563

But I not sure about part#10?? Found this one but no picture

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N1KBOJD/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=AWPBFTW0ZXVPR&psc=1

According to the chart this one REPLACES 92742

I guess I will need to call Atwood ( who has been bought by Dometic)

So that’s where it stands right now at least I have my hot water heater and electric I got a lot of things cleaned and some maintenance done and I have to work on getting it fixed so I can run it on propane too

If anyone has run into this problem or knows that these are the correct parts I would appreciate your input thank you !!



it’s difficult to find cannot be shipped to Canada from Amazon even with prime without paying an exorbitant price won’t get here before I leave.
 
Joan,

If it is the actual gas orifce you are wanting, I bought one of these a month ago. Atwood 92742 Orifice Main Burner. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009UPLKIW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can clean the orifice. Do not poke the hole though as if it scratches it, it may no longer work. You can unscrew the orifice from the holder and soak it in isopropyl alcohol. You can hold it up to a light and look through it maybe. A magnifying glass will help.

The holder for the orifce normally does not go bad, but anything is possible if it is corroded. This is the one I come up with on your model Atwood 91563 https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-91563...wood+91563&qid=1562464471&s=automotive&sr=1-1

I do see the wording on the Panther diagram showing those 2 parts have now been replaced, my book is older and may not be up to date on the latest, but I was still able to buy the older parts by their numbers.

Try and tell us what the heater is doing on gas. Be a specific as possible in tiny steps from the time the gas valve opens until the flame goes out and or ideally a short video if at all possible on a cell phone.

Has your friend taken the burner tube out and looked through it/cleaned it? I'm assuming he may have as it is one of the first things to do.

If it will start to burn, is the flame nice and blue or very yellow?

How long does it burn for before it goes out? Time it with a cell phone stopwatch.

When the flame goes out, tell us what happens? Do you hear a clunk of the gas valve turning off instantly when the flame goes out or does the gas valve take a few seconds to go clunk after the flame when out?

Does the little red DSI light ever go on, on the tank panel in the camper when the flame goes out?

Add more to this. We need more to go on to help better.

Also, tell us when the last time it worked on LP gas, how long ago, did it work OK then? Trying to back into when it worked or and what happened to maybe cause it to stop working on gas
 
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Thanks John! I will do a video as soon as I can ( raining cats and dogs now) and post

But yes we took the burner tube off and found no obstruction
Took off the thermocoupler and cleaned that with emery paper as well
as a few of the connections and grounds

I don’t think the light on the panel ever went off but I will check again when doing the video

BTW I have both those parts in my Amazon “Save for Later” while I checked here for confirmation
 
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You can clean the orifice. Do not poke the hole though as if it scratches it, it may no longer work. You can unscrew the orifice from the holder and soak it in isopropyl alcohol. You can hold it up to a light and look through it maybe. A magnifying glass will help.

You also buy a otoscope (ear scope) about $20.00. Great for looking at orifice or carburater jets. Amazingly you can see small deposits on jet or orifice walls of what you think is clean.
 
I'm working on a similar problem on a 1995 T-1550. Flame is yellow and goes out after a minute or two every time. I suspect low fuel flow. I'm going to check the tube and lines first. Mine has a Jade valve block. I'll update if I find anything helpful.
 
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