Shore power receptacle conversion

[Roger66]

Hi All.
Just wondering if anyone has converted their tt from the pullout power cord to the receptacle with the removable power cord. If so what do you see as the pros and cons?

Roger

 

[Tinstaafl]

I've been close to pulling the trigger on that conversion for a while now. I don't really see any cons; the pro being that there's one less access point for critters.

If/when I do it, I'll mount the receptacle below the existing hatch instead of eliminating it. That way, I'll still have access to storage space for the cord and a couple of other odds & ends.

 

[Roger66]

That's a good idea! As long as you have the room and something solid to attach the wall plate to. Not sure how it's framed out there. Plus you can seal the flapper for a better lack of terms shut with silicone or some type of tape to ensure critters can't squeeze in.

 

[mainah-SUN]

Seems like a lot of effort for little gain. The cord is pretty hefty to deal with voltage drop for it's length seems a shame to hack up a perfectly good cord you still have to store it somewhere. If you do something like that it should have a twist lock female on the cable end and a male twist lock on the camper. You don't want a male on the cord because plugged into the 30 amp you will end up with a hot set of ends to light up your life. So with the proper fittings you probably are looking at a good $60+ Sure would be easier to stuff the cord back in the little box!

 

[Tinstaafl]

If you do something like that it should have a twist lock female on the cable end and a male twist lock on the camper.

Doesn't look to be twist lock, but the weatherproof cover on this kit should obviate the need for that:

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Ma...000NUYZQC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

As for whether it's actually worthwhile to do the conversion, adding an extra connection/voltage drop point isn't ideal, but if you happen to camp in areas where RV-invading critters abound, it could be well worth it to help keep them out.

 

[mainah-SUN]

Yes that is a twist lock but it is female if that is the camper side the cord end will have to be male not a good thing because if it is plugged into the world the male end of the cord will have exposed ends that will be at 120 volts to ground you being the ground. Now I have no clue what's inside of the closed cover if it's a male twist lock then you are smiling. The door on mine has a notch for the coard to pass through not a whole lot is going to be able to get past that once the door is closed.

 

[Tinstaafl]

That female end gets installed on the cord; inside the receptacle cover is a male. Electrically safe, and how many new campers are being made these days.

The notch on my door is much larger than really necessary for the cord alone. Plenty of room for a small mouse, let alone a multitude of creepy-crawlies to enter. I actually caught a small blacksnake nosing around at it one day, and he could have fit through. I would have had to give my wife CPR.

 

[Sunline Fan]

The notch on my door is much larger than really necessary for the cord alone. Plenty of room for a small mouse, let alone a multitude of creepy-crawlies to enter.

The official SunlineClub approved modification for this is a piece of pipe insulation about, 10" long, around your power cord, with zip ties on either end. Slide it to the point on your cord that goes through the door, and then slide that insulation up into the slot on the door. Pretty much fills the whole opening and lets nothing in that way.

Yes, something could chew the foam I suppose, but I imagine not for short term camping.

 

[Tinstaafl]

Practical! I've been using a split pipe escutcheon, but that tends to move if the cord gets bumped.

 

[Roger66]

Thanks everyone. I believe I will leave it as designed and go with the zip ties and pipe insulation as Sunline Fan suggested. Also as an fyi the conversion is male receptacle on the TT and female on the power cord.

 

[mainah-SUN]

I get this all the time with generator installs etc I have seen some very scary home done wiring that is why I'm very specific when it comes to home made installs I'm glad the kit has the proper ends. Follow the colors of the screws silver white, gold/brass, black and green ground (bare or green. Me I still would not modify a working system for those with issues the pipe insulation sounds good. I'm in the middle of 80 acres in rural ME and I (knock on wood) have had zero issues with critters invading the camper.

 

[Roger66]

I know what you mean about very scary. I was in OIF and the electricians there do some really sketchy stuff like bare wire ends plugged in to outlets and no plugs on power tools just twisting wires together like bread ties.

 

[JohnGB]

The detachable cord is for sure a current new camper thing. Both 30 amp and 50 amp campers. For a 50 amp setup, it is about all that is offered as the cord is so heavy, you can't stuff it in the hole. And that said, lifting a 25 foot, 50 amp, 4 wire, 220 Volt cord is "heavy". They split the 220 volt into 2, 110 circuits inside the camper.

I understand the critter issue. My neighbor does not use the foam insulation and the mice walk right in over the winter as he has the shore line cord plugged in all the time.

This detachable cord done with the proper setup, will work but one needs to weigh all the pros/cons. I toyed with the idea but gave up on it for me. I do use the pipe insulation foam with a Velcro wrap at each end, I can slide it to where it needs to be. A downside of the detachable cord, you always have to contend with all 25 feet, all the time even if you are 4 feet from the power post. It is not a show stopper, but you do have to store all 25 ft somewhere else.

Since we winter camper, I upgraded my original # 10 AWG, 25 ft plastic/vinyl shore line cord with a no. 8 Awg SOOW rubber cord. It was a drop off a roll at Home Depot and I could not pass up the price. Right guy, at the right place, at the right time. And I made it as long as I could easily roll up in the hole. I have about 32 ft in the hole. The T310SR may have a bigger then average cord hole. The longer cord has less need for an additional extension cord and I can wind it up in the winter.

For insect critters, I spray ant spray on the cord and the ground a good 2 feet, on the cord above the ground hanging, all the way around and on the cord on the ground. That has halted the insects. I had ant issues once and that was enough to train me!

The 4 legged crawlers, I have not had that issue at camp or at home luckily. Seems the foam helps or they do not like the ant spray either. Not exactly sure why. While at home and when stored outside between camping trips at our old place, I use a battery minder plugged into the battery so the shore line cord stays stowed until we are ready to camp. Then I plug in if I need to cool the fridge down before we head out camping. This lessens the exposure of eating through the foam as the cord is not out there as much.

Each of us has to make our own call on this to what fits your area and your likes and dislikes.

John

 

[ggrvguy]

Hi All.
Just wondering if anyone has converted their tt from the pullout power cord to the receptacle with the removable power cord. If so what do you see as the pros and cons?

Roger

Mine was converted to the marine style twist locks by the previous owner. I think the only pro is to keep the critters out, which is a big pro. The cons are dealing with the cable and storing it. I always throw mine in the back of the truck, because its always dirty when I coil it and I don't want to throw it inside the camper. I don't have any outside storage left. Plus the plastic threaded ring that secures to cable to the camper broke right away, so now the cable doesn't seem very secure when it's attached.
Gary G

 

[Roger66]

Thanks John and Gary. I think I will just stick with what the OEM put on it. Lots of great input/advice from everyone.

 

[Roger66]

The detachable cord is for sure a current new camper thing. Both 30 amp and 50 amp campers. For a 50 amp setup, it is about all that is offered as the cord is so heavy, you can't stuff it in the hole. And that said, lifting a 25 foot, 50 amp, 4 wire, 220 Volt cord is "heavy". They split the 220 volt into 2, 110 circuits inside the camper.

I understand the critter issue. My neighbor does not use the foam insulation and the mice walk right in over the winter as he has the shore line cord plugged in all the time.

This detachable cord done with the proper setup, will work but one needs to weigh all the pros/cons. I toyed with the idea but gave up on it for me. I do use the pipe insulation foam with a Velcro wrap at each end, I can slide it to where it needs to be. A downside of the detachable cord, you always have to contend with all 25 feet, all the time even if you are 4 feet from the power post. It is not a show stopper, but you do have to store all 25 ft somewhere else.

Since we winter camper, I upgraded my original # 10 AWG, 25 ft plastic/vinyl shore line cord with a no. 8 Awg SOOW rubber cord. It was a drop off a roll at Home Depot and I could not pass up the price. Right guy, at the right place, at the right time. And I made it as long as I could easily roll up in the hole. I have about 32 ft in the hole. The T310SR may have a bigger then average cord hole. The longer cord has less need for an additional extension cord and I can wind it up in the winter.

For insect critters, I spray ant spray on the cord and the ground a good 2 feet, on the cord above the ground hanging, all the way around and on the cord on the ground. That has halted the insects. I had ant issues once and that was enough to train me!

The 4 legged crawlers, I have not had that issue at camp or at home luckily. Seems the foam helps or they do not like the ant spray either. Not exactly sure why. While at home and when stored outside between camping trips at our old place, I use a battery minder plugged into the battery so the shore line cord stays stowed until we are ready to camp. Then I plug in if I need to cool the fridge down before we head out camping. This lessens the exposure of eating through the foam as the cord is not out there as much.

Each of us has to make our own call on this to what fits your area and your likes and dislikes.

John

John what type of battery maintainer do you use?

 

[henryj-SUN]

Took some digging, but finally found EMD_Driver's post from years ago because I was planning on this mod too. Never did get around to it though. There is a downside. Friends with a big Cedar Creek fiver had the twist lock break from the weight of the 50 amp cord. Brand new trailer still on warranty--they left camping and towed back to dealer for a fix. My brother also had twist lock on a Road Trek. That broke a long way from home and it took him awhile and mega bucks to find a cord while travelling. I've since lost my enthusiasm for these connectors and subscribe to the KISS principle.

 

[Roger66]

Thanks henryj. All the more reason to stick with the OEM.

 

[Sunline Fan]

I usually have a towel or rag with me to wipe down things as I put them away, so it's a handy thing to keep around to wipe down the power cord as you stuff it into the compartment. I wipe my water hose off with it too.

 

[lynnmor-SUN]

I had loose factory wire connections for the twist lock in the trailer wall, nothing like a fire hazard within the foam and tinder dry thin plywood. I got rid of the troublesome disconnect with no way to; inspect damage, contacts, flimsy lock ring and storage issues. My current system is pretty much critter proof with a locking hatch and a split rubber gasket around the cable. The hatch is large enough to allow a hand to reach inside if the cable knots up, but that doesn’t happen since I attach a tether right behind the plug. Good riddance to a bad idea. Now I can pull out only what I need, wipe down the cable with one hand as I feed it in with the other and no dirt or critters in the truck or trailer.