myabelle
Member
If I am able to get the aluminum roof off of this camper, is it a good or bad idea to replace it with a different roofing material? Thank you for advice, I'm new here.
Replacing a 1992 Sunline Aluminum Roof: Feasibility, Materials, and Step-by-Step Guidance
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This topic centers on whether to replace the original aluminum roof of a 1992 Sunline camper with a different material, such as plywood decking and a modern membrane (EPDM/TPO), or attempt to repair and reuse the existing metal. Members, including a highly experienced moderator, provide detailed, step-by-step advice on both approaches, emphasizing that the most critical factor is ensuring a watertight seal—most leaks stem from failed sealants, not the membrane itself.<br><br>Consensus...
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JohnGB
Senior Member
Site Team
Welcome myabelle!
Regarding your question about the roofing material, should you go back with aluminium, or change to something else? You can either keep the metal membrane roof or switch to a newer RV-style membrane. There are pros and cons to consider. It is neither a good nor a bad idea to switch to a different roof membrane, but any option must be understood to ensure a fully watertight, lasting seal. Sealant failure is the most common cause of roof leaks, not the membrane itself.
Depending on the condition of your old roof, it may be repairable if it has minimal damage. Post photos of your old roof's condition, and we can help determine whether it is wise to repair it. The front and rear roof seams join the top pieces of aluminum siding. To save those seams, remove the front and rear siding as a single unit, with the entire roof as a single continuous piece. We have had a few members do just that. They repaired all water-damaged wood, then reinstalled the entire roof, treated the metal seam segments, and applied Henry's Triocool high-solids coating to all surfaces. For the Henrys to work, the metal must be bare or have the original paint, if any remains. Proper preparation must be completed for Henry's to work properly.
That said, removing the entire roof and front and rear sides is doable, but if the roof has issues to start with, others have cut the front and rear siding seams and removed the metal roof. Then, they installed 1/4" exterior glue wood roof plywood and glued a one-piece EPDM rubber or TPO membrane on top.
By going with the 1/4" plywood decking, you will lose a little cargo capacity as the wood adds weight to the camper. Depending on the camper model, the weight may not be significant, but it's worth noting. The 1/4" plywood is still not a direct walk on the roof; you still need to use small plywood sheets on top spanning over at least 2 rafters for servicing, just like you have to with your existing metal roof. You cannot walk directly on your existing roof without the support board.
If the decking increases to 3/8", then you do not need the support pieces of plywood for servicing the roof, but it adds more weight, which means you will give up cargo capacity in the camper, not to overload the camper. Again, pending the model, we can help you assess the weight difference to determine how significant an issue it is for you.
Technically, there is an option for an entire one-piece roof with no seam lines. You will still cut and create new seams in the front and rear siding; however, the roof membrane is one continuous piece of metal. However, I have not purchased one of those membranes and am not sure how expensive they are. In 2000, other brands, including Coachmen, used a long, aluminum membrane, but it was soon replaced with an EPDM rubber roof due to the labor and cost of aluminum. It was one really good roof. I worked on one; the metal can last almost a lifetime, but the caulking will fail just as it can on any modern camper roof, and you'll still end up with leaks.
All the above options use lap sealant (caulk) to seal roof joints and openings, and these sealants require annual maintenance to prevent cracking. The Henry's option I mentioned is one way to address the lap sealant failures, but it comes down to cost and how long you plan to use the camper. The Henry's does cost more. The lap sealant, the cheapest option, can work, but you must inspect and maintain it regularly.
That is the big-picture answer; we can provide more detail on how to implement any of these options, with pictures. Please come back with more questions and what you are trying to accomplish. Please also provide the model number for your 1992 camper.
Hope this helps.
John
Regarding your question about the roofing material, should you go back with aluminium, or change to something else? You can either keep the metal membrane roof or switch to a newer RV-style membrane. There are pros and cons to consider. It is neither a good nor a bad idea to switch to a different roof membrane, but any option must be understood to ensure a fully watertight, lasting seal. Sealant failure is the most common cause of roof leaks, not the membrane itself.
Depending on the condition of your old roof, it may be repairable if it has minimal damage. Post photos of your old roof's condition, and we can help determine whether it is wise to repair it. The front and rear roof seams join the top pieces of aluminum siding. To save those seams, remove the front and rear siding as a single unit, with the entire roof as a single continuous piece. We have had a few members do just that. They repaired all water-damaged wood, then reinstalled the entire roof, treated the metal seam segments, and applied Henry's Triocool high-solids coating to all surfaces. For the Henrys to work, the metal must be bare or have the original paint, if any remains. Proper preparation must be completed for Henry's to work properly.
That said, removing the entire roof and front and rear sides is doable, but if the roof has issues to start with, others have cut the front and rear siding seams and removed the metal roof. Then, they installed 1/4" exterior glue wood roof plywood and glued a one-piece EPDM rubber or TPO membrane on top.
By going with the 1/4" plywood decking, you will lose a little cargo capacity as the wood adds weight to the camper. Depending on the camper model, the weight may not be significant, but it's worth noting. The 1/4" plywood is still not a direct walk on the roof; you still need to use small plywood sheets on top spanning over at least 2 rafters for servicing, just like you have to with your existing metal roof. You cannot walk directly on your existing roof without the support board.
If the decking increases to 3/8", then you do not need the support pieces of plywood for servicing the roof, but it adds more weight, which means you will give up cargo capacity in the camper, not to overload the camper. Again, pending the model, we can help you assess the weight difference to determine how significant an issue it is for you.
Technically, there is an option for an entire one-piece roof with no seam lines. You will still cut and create new seams in the front and rear siding; however, the roof membrane is one continuous piece of metal. However, I have not purchased one of those membranes and am not sure how expensive they are. In 2000, other brands, including Coachmen, used a long, aluminum membrane, but it was soon replaced with an EPDM rubber roof due to the labor and cost of aluminum. It was one really good roof. I worked on one; the metal can last almost a lifetime, but the caulking will fail just as it can on any modern camper roof, and you'll still end up with leaks.
All the above options use lap sealant (caulk) to seal roof joints and openings, and these sealants require annual maintenance to prevent cracking. The Henry's option I mentioned is one way to address the lap sealant failures, but it comes down to cost and how long you plan to use the camper. The Henry's does cost more. The lap sealant, the cheapest option, can work, but you must inspect and maintain it regularly.
That is the big-picture answer; we can provide more detail on how to implement any of these options, with pictures. Please come back with more questions and what you are trying to accomplish. Please also provide the model number for your 1992 camper.
Hope this helps.
John
Last edited:
myabelle
Member
myabelle
Member
Hi John, Wow! Thank you so much for your time and thoughtful reply! I will try to post a few photos but fingers crossed on that. The camper is parked in our barn with scaffolding set up on one side and a beam above in case the ac needs to be lifted out. I don't have lights set up yet.
The roof dips in between the supports where it seems as tho water would collect, so I thought replacing it and putting plywood down first would straighten that out. And the wood supporting the vent in the bathroom isn't looking too hot.
This roof seems to be riveted? It looks like it's in sections maybe?
I've done house renovation, but never a camper, so I'm excited to tackle this, and I hope I'm able to do it. I've got the time and im not looking for the cheapest alternatives. My husband isn't quite as excited, lol. But I can probably get something out of him. I'm 70, so I don't need anything to last a lifetime, 10 years would probably do it. Thanks again!!! Rob
The roof dips in between the supports where it seems as tho water would collect, so I thought replacing it and putting plywood down first would straighten that out. And the wood supporting the vent in the bathroom isn't looking too hot.
This roof seems to be riveted? It looks like it's in sections maybe?
I've done house renovation, but never a camper, so I'm excited to tackle this, and I hope I'm able to do it. I've got the time and im not looking for the cheapest alternatives. My husband isn't quite as excited, lol. But I can probably get something out of him. I'm 70, so I don't need anything to last a lifetime, 10 years would probably do it. Thanks again!!! Rob
Attachments
JohnGB
Senior Member
Site Team
Hi Rob,
OK, the pics came through, and they really help. As FYI, in case you have not yet found our "Resources" section, we have the 1992 sales brochure that you can download. There is a lot of good info in those brochures about your camper when it was new. When logged in, look at the top of the forum page for a tab labeled RESOURCES. Click the tab, then see Brochures, then scroll to 1992. 1992 has two brochures; your T-1740 shows up in the main brochure, not the one called Saturn trailers. The Saturn label is for new Saturn models that came out, I think, in 1992. You are still welcome to look, but your floor plan does not appear there.
First, regarding this picture and your questions.
This roof pic shows a lot.
The roof metal is not riveted, but it is seamed (hemmed) together in sections. Each section is approximately 24" wide by the camper's width. I'm not sure about your year; is yours 24", but you will see those seams repeat along the running length of the roof front to back. The seams are full-width (left to right) of the camper. When new, each sheet section was seamed, and sealant was inserted into the seam when the two sections were joined. The seam was folded and ironed (pressure, not heat) to create a watertight joint at each section. The last sections of the roof metal, at each end of the roof, were also seamed to the front and rear siding.
Once all section seams were completed and connected to the front and rear siding, the entire roof metal (membrane) is on big continuous piece. Those metal seams were not intended to separate, allowing the removal of a section for roof wood repair. It is very likely that if you attempt to unfold a section in the middle of the roof to separate it, the metal may be damaged. And then it will be very difficult to recreate a new, leak-proof seam to put it back together. From my background, I do not use the word " impossible", but in this case, the amount of work to lift out one section and then create a brand new section to be seamed in place with the whole thing still on the roof, that will be an undertaking. There are other options.
I can also see that a prior owner coated the roof with "something". I can't determine the brand they used or the preparation they performed before applying the coating. I can see what looks like many small bubbles in the coating, suggesting the coating is not adhering to these bubbles. The bubbles I'm referring to are scattered across the metal roof in no particular pattern and are bigger. I'm guessing the bubbles I'm referring to are 1/4" to 3/8" in diameter, based on the photos. The original roof metal had a pebbled surface 100% across the metal; it was not smooth. Those original pebbled metal had approx. 3/32" to 1/8" dimples stamped into the metal. That textured surface is OK.
It also appears that the roof coating was applied over the caulk at the roof vents and other openings. As long as the caulk is in good condition and not deteriorated, coating over it is appropriate if the coating is designed to bond to the caulk. But if the coating was applied over deteriorated/cracked caulk, that's not a good thing. Close-up photos of the caulking at the roof openings can provide more detail if you want to know.
I agree; you have what appears to be a rotted rafter at a crank-up vent or skylight opening. Not sure what you took out of the hole.
Now, to address this, what do you do to correct this? I'll start with: yes, that rafter is repairable if you or your helper has the tools and the basics of woodworking knowledge, you want to take on a project this size, and you have the time to do it. The best part is that you have a barn with the camper inside; most folks do not have that, and doing the repair outside is just more complex.
We are here to help you, sort out what works best for you, and how you use your camper.
More on this in the next reply, as I may run out of room in this one reply.
OK, the pics came through, and they really help. As FYI, in case you have not yet found our "Resources" section, we have the 1992 sales brochure that you can download. There is a lot of good info in those brochures about your camper when it was new. When logged in, look at the top of the forum page for a tab labeled RESOURCES. Click the tab, then see Brochures, then scroll to 1992. 1992 has two brochures; your T-1740 shows up in the main brochure, not the one called Saturn trailers. The Saturn label is for new Saturn models that came out, I think, in 1992. You are still welcome to look, but your floor plan does not appear there.
First, regarding this picture and your questions.
This roof pic shows a lot.
The roof metal is not riveted, but it is seamed (hemmed) together in sections. Each section is approximately 24" wide by the camper's width. I'm not sure about your year; is yours 24", but you will see those seams repeat along the running length of the roof front to back. The seams are full-width (left to right) of the camper. When new, each sheet section was seamed, and sealant was inserted into the seam when the two sections were joined. The seam was folded and ironed (pressure, not heat) to create a watertight joint at each section. The last sections of the roof metal, at each end of the roof, were also seamed to the front and rear siding.
Once all section seams were completed and connected to the front and rear siding, the entire roof metal (membrane) is on big continuous piece. Those metal seams were not intended to separate, allowing the removal of a section for roof wood repair. It is very likely that if you attempt to unfold a section in the middle of the roof to separate it, the metal may be damaged. And then it will be very difficult to recreate a new, leak-proof seam to put it back together. From my background, I do not use the word " impossible", but in this case, the amount of work to lift out one section and then create a brand new section to be seamed in place with the whole thing still on the roof, that will be an undertaking. There are other options.
I can also see that a prior owner coated the roof with "something". I can't determine the brand they used or the preparation they performed before applying the coating. I can see what looks like many small bubbles in the coating, suggesting the coating is not adhering to these bubbles. The bubbles I'm referring to are scattered across the metal roof in no particular pattern and are bigger. I'm guessing the bubbles I'm referring to are 1/4" to 3/8" in diameter, based on the photos. The original roof metal had a pebbled surface 100% across the metal; it was not smooth. Those original pebbled metal had approx. 3/32" to 1/8" dimples stamped into the metal. That textured surface is OK.
It also appears that the roof coating was applied over the caulk at the roof vents and other openings. As long as the caulk is in good condition and not deteriorated, coating over it is appropriate if the coating is designed to bond to the caulk. But if the coating was applied over deteriorated/cracked caulk, that's not a good thing. Close-up photos of the caulking at the roof openings can provide more detail if you want to know.
I agree; you have what appears to be a rotted rafter at a crank-up vent or skylight opening. Not sure what you took out of the hole.
Now, to address this, what do you do to correct this? I'll start with: yes, that rafter is repairable if you or your helper has the tools and the basics of woodworking knowledge, you want to take on a project this size, and you have the time to do it. The best part is that you have a barn with the camper inside; most folks do not have that, and doing the repair outside is just more complex.
We are here to help you, sort out what works best for you, and how you use your camper.
More on this in the next reply, as I may run out of room in this one reply.
JohnGB
Senior Member
Site Team
Hi Rob,
I will type to you later about more things to think about before you start taking your camper apart. I'm out of time now, but you can see others' repairs for what is involved in taking the roof off, adding new decking, and installing a new membrane. These may give you a sense of what could be involved.
This post is one of mine. This is a complete restoration of a 2004 T1950. The camper is slightly larger than yours and uses the newer Sunline building methods than your 1992 camper, but it shows the roof and what a new roof can entail. In your case, this method would be if you take off the metal roof of your camper, cut it at the front and rear seam, and then install new 1/4" decking and new RV membranes with all new roof moldings. In this case, it was EPDM rubber. This link will drop you into the middle of a very long post, but it starts where the roof decking is going on. Then keep reading until you see the roof membrane. You are welcome to start with the first post. Please note, this was a full restoration.
2004 T1950 Restoration Project - (Ugly Picture Heavy)
This is a 1987 camper; the construction method is similar to yours, but your 1992 is slightly more advanced, as it has a small arched rafter roof.
1987 t1550 restoration
Here is one of my responses to a fellow forum member on his metal roof. In his case, it was more about sealing the roof, but I recommend inspecting the camper with a moisture meter before you start. Note that the moisture meter will not work on frozen wood. If your camper is in an unheated building, the meter will not work until the camper thaws. There are also links to other campers and Sunline Fans campers; he removed the entire metal roof.
See rely # 2 and 4
Sagging Roof - 1981 Sunline
I'll be back with more later. This should keep you busy until then.
I hope this helps.
John
I will type to you later about more things to think about before you start taking your camper apart. I'm out of time now, but you can see others' repairs for what is involved in taking the roof off, adding new decking, and installing a new membrane. These may give you a sense of what could be involved.
This post is one of mine. This is a complete restoration of a 2004 T1950. The camper is slightly larger than yours and uses the newer Sunline building methods than your 1992 camper, but it shows the roof and what a new roof can entail. In your case, this method would be if you take off the metal roof of your camper, cut it at the front and rear seam, and then install new 1/4" decking and new RV membranes with all new roof moldings. In this case, it was EPDM rubber. This link will drop you into the middle of a very long post, but it starts where the roof decking is going on. Then keep reading until you see the roof membrane. You are welcome to start with the first post. Please note, this was a full restoration.
2004 T1950 Restoration Project - (Ugly Picture Heavy)
This is a 1987 camper; the construction method is similar to yours, but your 1992 is slightly more advanced, as it has a small arched rafter roof.
1987 t1550 restoration
Here is one of my responses to a fellow forum member on his metal roof. In his case, it was more about sealing the roof, but I recommend inspecting the camper with a moisture meter before you start. Note that the moisture meter will not work on frozen wood. If your camper is in an unheated building, the meter will not work until the camper thaws. There are also links to other campers and Sunline Fans campers; he removed the entire metal roof.
See rely # 2 and 4
Sagging Roof - 1981 Sunline
I'll be back with more later. This should keep you busy until then.
I hope this helps.
John
myabelle
Member
Hi Rob,
OK, the pics came through, and they really help. As FYI, in case you have not yet found our "Resources" section, we have the 1992 sales brochure that you can download. There is a lot of good info in those brochures about your camper when it was new. When logged in, look at the top of the forum page for a tab labeled RESOURCES. Click the tab, then see Brochures, then scroll to 1992. 1992 has two brochures; your T-1740 shows up in the main brochure, not the one called Saturn trailers. The Saturn label is for new Saturn models that came out, I think, in 1992. You are still welcome to look, but your floor plan does not appear there.
First, regarding this picture and your questions.
This roof pic shows a lot.
The roof metal is not riveted, but it is seamed (hemmed) together in sections. Each section is approximately 24" wide by the camper's width. I'm not sure about your year; is yours 24", but you will see those seams repeat along the running length of the roof front to back. The seams are full-width (left to right) of the camper. When new, each sheet section was seamed, and sealant was inserted into the seam when the two sections were joined. The seam was folded and ironed (pressure, not heat) to create a watertight joint at each section. The last sections of the roof metal, at each end of the roof, were also seamed to the front and rear siding.
Once all section seams were completed and connected to the front and rear siding, the entire roof metal (membrane) is on big continuous piece. Those metal seams were not intended to separate, allowing the removal of a section for roof wood repair. It is very likely that if you attempt to unfold a section in the middle of the roof to separate it, the metal may be damaged. And then it will be very difficult to recreate a new, leak-proof seam to put it back together. From my background, I do not use the word " impossible", but in this case, the amount of work to lift out one section and then create a brand new section to be seamed in place with the whole thing still on the roof, that will be an undertaking. There are other options.
I can also see that a prior owner coated the roof with "something". I can't determine the brand they used or the preparation they performed before applying the coating. I can see what looks like many small bubbles in the coating, suggesting the coating is not adhering to these bubbles. The bubbles I'm referring to are scattered across the metal roof in no particular pattern and are bigger. I'm guessing the bubbles I'm referring to are 1/4" to 3/8" in diameter, based on the photos. The original roof metal had a pebbled surface 100% across the metal; it was not smooth. Those original pebbled metal had approx. 3/32" to 1/8" dimples stamped into the metal. That textured surface is OK.
It also appears that the roof coating was applied over the caulk at the roof vents and other openings. As long as the caulk is in good condition and not deteriorated, coating over it is appropriate if the coating is designed to bond to the caulk. But if the coating was applied over deteriorated/cracked caulk, that's not a good thing. Close-up photos of the caulking at the roof openings can provide more detail if you want to know.
I agree; you have what appears to be a rotted rafter at a crank-up vent or skylight opening. Not sure what you took out of the hole.
Now, to address this, what do you do to correct this? I'll start with: yes, that rafter is repairable if you or your helper has the tools and the basics of woodworking knowledge, you want to take on a project this size, and you have the time to do it. The best part is that you have a barn with the camper inside; most folks do not have that, and doing the repair outside is just more complex.
We are here to help you, sort out what works best for you, and how you use your camper.
More on this in the next reply, as I may run out of room in this one reply.
myabelle
Member
OK, thank you for all of that info. We're leaning toward cutting off the roof and putting down 1/4 inch plywood because it will bend more easily over the rafters. And whatever you recommend on top of that. We have all the tools, it just has to warm up a bit.
This is a small camper and I'm thinking we won't be using it much, if at all, for camping. It is more of a guest house -- a friend stayed in it for a month last summer with a tarp over the roof.
So where does one cut to remove a roof? Cut the seams off in the front and back? The side edges of the roof seem to be bent over the edge of the camper. Are they secured under the awning support? Thanks again!!
This is a small camper and I'm thinking we won't be using it much, if at all, for camping. It is more of a guest house -- a friend stayed in it for a month last summer with a tarp over the roof.
So where does one cut to remove a roof? Cut the seams off in the front and back? The side edges of the roof seem to be bent over the edge of the camper. Are they secured under the awning support? Thanks again!!
JohnGB
Senior Member
Site Team
Hi Rob,
You are welcome. We are glad to help as we can.
To your questions:
Please note that the roof rafter repair I recommend will be performed from the outside in. This means you will remove the roof metal first, leaving the entire ceiling and rafters, etc. intact. Please don't tear apart the inside first; it can create more work to repair it later.
Campers are not built like houses; campers are built from the outside in, using subassemblies. The entire roof, rafters, and ceiling board are a single subassembly made on a bench. Once the subassembly is installed on the walls and fastened, the entire roof metal is pulled over the rafters as a single piece. When you lift off the roof metal, you will see and decide which rafters need to be completely removed and which may only need to be partially removed/repaired. The ceiling board will then need to be assessed to determine whether it can be saved or needs to be replaced. Depending on the extent of the ceiling board's deterioration, a resin treatment can be used to rebuild it in place. This post explains how to repair ceilings and walls from the outside using the resin treatment. Again, that is, if the ceiling or wallboard can be saved by this method, not all of it can be. Repairing ceiling and wallboards using resin treatment. Also, your rafters from 1992 are made different then the truss rafters in those pics. The concepts are the same, but the rafter manufacturing is different.
Now to your roof repair.
In the big picture, to convert the older all-metal roof to a plywood-decked, glue-on membrane, a new sound, waterproof transition seam must be created at the joint between the new flexible membrane and the front and rear siding joints. Also, side wall moldings will need to be added to create a waterproof seam along the sides of the camper, and they will address the awning if you have one. These seams, new to you, have long been used by Sunline and many other RV manufacturers. They are not difficult or expensive to create, and I have many pictures I can show you on how and what needs to be done to create those seams on your 1992 camper.
Before we get into how to do that, please post pictures of the areas I describe below. This will make it much easier, as we can see exactly what you have to work with. If needed, I can add arrows to your pictures to indicate where to make the final cut for the roof metal, rather than you having to sort out a lot of wording to explain it. It is straightforward to cut; the unknown right now is the exact cut, as you will need to add a wood rafter under the roof at that cut to secure the screws for the new front and rear seams. How Sunline built a camper evolved over the years, and there was a prior owner who may have made changes. The picture shows where you are starting. If you cannot add all the photos to one reply, add more photos in as many replies as needed.
1. Pictures at the front right side (the entry door side/passenger side), front wall corner molding at the roof line. The front wall corner molding stops at the roof top. Also, the front wall siding at the top end is attached to the roof metal near the corner molding. The pictures are to show:
1A. A shot across the rooftop, left to right, to show the front wall seam to the roof metal and the corner molding.
1B. A shot of how the awning rail is attached at the right side roof line up front, near the front corner molding.
1C. A shot of the entire right side of the camper showing the awning side rails and roller all rolled up at the roof line.
1D. Picture of the awning side rails where they attach at the bottom of the camper's right side rail.
2. Pictures at the rear right side (the entry door side/passenger side), rear wall corner molding at the roof line. The rear wall corner molding stops at the roof top. Also, the rear wall siding at the top end is attached to the roof metal near the corner molding. The pictures are to show:
2A. A shot across the rooftop, left to right, to show the rear wall seam to the roof metal and the corner molding.
2B. A shot of how the awning rail is attached at the right side roof line up rear, near the rear corner molding.
2C. A shot of the entire right side of the camper showing the awning side rails and roller all rolled up.
3. On the left side of the camper (the driver's side) at the roof line, the metal roof is folded over the left side wall. The pictures to show:
3A. At the front of the left side of the roof line, showing the left front wall corner molding where it stops at the roof line. This will also show the folded-over roof metal against the side wall at the front-left corner.
3B At the rear of the left side of the roof line, showing the left rear wall corner molding where it stops at the roof line. This will also show the folded-over roof metal against the side wall at the rear-left corner.
4. A few pictures showing the entire rooftop from front to back, then from back to front.
5. A picture straight on, looking at the entire back wall.
6. A picture straight on, looking at the entire front wall.
7. A picture straight on, looking at the entire left side wall.
You can take more pics also.
I realize this may be a lot. We are just trying to help you with exactly what you have.
Thanks,
John
PS, yes, the entire awning "might" need to be removed. I suggest it may need to be removed, as Sunline used different awning-mounting rail locations in 1992. Some awning rails are at the roofline; others are just below it. If it has to come off, it's usually straightforward with two people once it is explained. After we see which style awning you have, it may be easier to unbolt the top awning arms, slide the complete awning assembly off the mounting rail, and store the entire assembly until it is time to reinstall.
You are welcome. We are glad to help as we can.
To your questions:
Please note that the roof rafter repair I recommend will be performed from the outside in. This means you will remove the roof metal first, leaving the entire ceiling and rafters, etc. intact. Please don't tear apart the inside first; it can create more work to repair it later.
Campers are not built like houses; campers are built from the outside in, using subassemblies. The entire roof, rafters, and ceiling board are a single subassembly made on a bench. Once the subassembly is installed on the walls and fastened, the entire roof metal is pulled over the rafters as a single piece. When you lift off the roof metal, you will see and decide which rafters need to be completely removed and which may only need to be partially removed/repaired. The ceiling board will then need to be assessed to determine whether it can be saved or needs to be replaced. Depending on the extent of the ceiling board's deterioration, a resin treatment can be used to rebuild it in place. This post explains how to repair ceilings and walls from the outside using the resin treatment. Again, that is, if the ceiling or wallboard can be saved by this method, not all of it can be. Repairing ceiling and wallboards using resin treatment. Also, your rafters from 1992 are made different then the truss rafters in those pics. The concepts are the same, but the rafter manufacturing is different.
Now to your roof repair.
In the big picture, to convert the older all-metal roof to a plywood-decked, glue-on membrane, a new sound, waterproof transition seam must be created at the joint between the new flexible membrane and the front and rear siding joints. Also, side wall moldings will need to be added to create a waterproof seam along the sides of the camper, and they will address the awning if you have one. These seams, new to you, have long been used by Sunline and many other RV manufacturers. They are not difficult or expensive to create, and I have many pictures I can show you on how and what needs to be done to create those seams on your 1992 camper.
Before we get into how to do that, please post pictures of the areas I describe below. This will make it much easier, as we can see exactly what you have to work with. If needed, I can add arrows to your pictures to indicate where to make the final cut for the roof metal, rather than you having to sort out a lot of wording to explain it. It is straightforward to cut; the unknown right now is the exact cut, as you will need to add a wood rafter under the roof at that cut to secure the screws for the new front and rear seams. How Sunline built a camper evolved over the years, and there was a prior owner who may have made changes. The picture shows where you are starting. If you cannot add all the photos to one reply, add more photos in as many replies as needed.
1. Pictures at the front right side (the entry door side/passenger side), front wall corner molding at the roof line. The front wall corner molding stops at the roof top. Also, the front wall siding at the top end is attached to the roof metal near the corner molding. The pictures are to show:
1A. A shot across the rooftop, left to right, to show the front wall seam to the roof metal and the corner molding.
1B. A shot of how the awning rail is attached at the right side roof line up front, near the front corner molding.
1C. A shot of the entire right side of the camper showing the awning side rails and roller all rolled up at the roof line.
1D. Picture of the awning side rails where they attach at the bottom of the camper's right side rail.
2. Pictures at the rear right side (the entry door side/passenger side), rear wall corner molding at the roof line. The rear wall corner molding stops at the roof top. Also, the rear wall siding at the top end is attached to the roof metal near the corner molding. The pictures are to show:
2A. A shot across the rooftop, left to right, to show the rear wall seam to the roof metal and the corner molding.
2B. A shot of how the awning rail is attached at the right side roof line up rear, near the rear corner molding.
2C. A shot of the entire right side of the camper showing the awning side rails and roller all rolled up.
3. On the left side of the camper (the driver's side) at the roof line, the metal roof is folded over the left side wall. The pictures to show:
3A. At the front of the left side of the roof line, showing the left front wall corner molding where it stops at the roof line. This will also show the folded-over roof metal against the side wall at the front-left corner.
3B At the rear of the left side of the roof line, showing the left rear wall corner molding where it stops at the roof line. This will also show the folded-over roof metal against the side wall at the rear-left corner.
4. A few pictures showing the entire rooftop from front to back, then from back to front.
5. A picture straight on, looking at the entire back wall.
6. A picture straight on, looking at the entire front wall.
7. A picture straight on, looking at the entire left side wall.
You can take more pics also.
I realize this may be a lot. We are just trying to help you with exactly what you have.
Thanks,
John
PS, yes, the entire awning "might" need to be removed. I suggest it may need to be removed, as Sunline used different awning-mounting rail locations in 1992. Some awning rails are at the roofline; others are just below it. If it has to come off, it's usually straightforward with two people once it is explained. After we see which style awning you have, it may be easier to unbolt the top awning arms, slide the complete awning assembly off the mounting rail, and store the entire assembly until it is time to reinstall.
myabelle
Member
Happy Valentines Day John!
I better not be seeing anything like what Yellowjacket came across! (I know what youre thinking.)
I'm not doing anything inside this camper, it's ridiculously cute and I hope all's well in there. In fact, I'm not doing anything until you give me the go ahead.
Forward progress stopped when you told me the moisture meter needed to be used above freezing. I'm in the Finger Lakes region of NY, and we've been in a deep freeze for some time.
You hit exactly on my question about where to cut the roof as I wondered about how to cut along a rafter so the front and back panels would end on it and fasten to it when done. Does that work too, or is it easier to make a new rafter as you suggest? Maybe when I cut that seam off, I'd be off the rafter. I'm sorry for these elementary questions, but what's the best tool to cut with to avoid a jagged edge in that "tinfoil"?
I still have to get lighting set up that hangs from the barn beams for working and good pics. And it's still very cold. Bear with me and many thanks for your invaluable advice!!
I better not be seeing anything like what Yellowjacket came across! (I know what youre thinking.)
I'm not doing anything inside this camper, it's ridiculously cute and I hope all's well in there. In fact, I'm not doing anything until you give me the go ahead.
Forward progress stopped when you told me the moisture meter needed to be used above freezing. I'm in the Finger Lakes region of NY, and we've been in a deep freeze for some time.
You hit exactly on my question about where to cut the roof as I wondered about how to cut along a rafter so the front and back panels would end on it and fasten to it when done. Does that work too, or is it easier to make a new rafter as you suggest? Maybe when I cut that seam off, I'd be off the rafter. I'm sorry for these elementary questions, but what's the best tool to cut with to avoid a jagged edge in that "tinfoil"?
I still have to get lighting set up that hangs from the barn beams for working and good pics. And it's still very cold. Bear with me and many thanks for your invaluable advice!!
JohnGB
Senior Member
Site Team
Hi Rob, I ran into a software issue with the images that prevented them from posting, so I had to split this reply. Please read reply #12 first, below this one; then return to reply #11. It will be in the correct order.
See reply 12 first, then start here.
When the rafters are repaired, and you have shimmed the first or second rafter as needed to create a straight line to the 1st rafter, the decking goes on. If you use 1/4" or 3/8", the same amount needs to be shaved by power sanding or power planing to create the plywood taper.
Here is a test fit of the front siding over the top of the first rafter. You can see that the plywood supports the siding, and the first rafter laying flat is where the front seam molding will screw into.
After the new membrane is glued on, apply high-quality butyl sealing tape in a layering sequence from the roof membrane to the siding, then to the front cap molding.
These pics are from a 2004 T1950 with a new roof using 1/4" plywood decking. The combo gutter rail. awning rail goes on first. New butyl tape is on the back of the molding to seal the screw and molding to the membrane.
Then the front siding was folded down and sealed with butyl tape along the bottom of the membrane, and stapled to the first rafter/decking. You can see the butyl tape in this pic as it is under the front siding. The staples are visible in this photo, very close to the edge of the siding metal, and will later be covered by the new flat-top molding at the front seam.
You can see the butyl tape here before the metal is placed over the butyl.
Next, we install the corner molding, which will tie in the front siding corner joint, the awning rail molding, and up onto the rooftop. This creates the end seal, preventing water from entering that corner.
These two pics are from a 2004 T2475. The corner molding is being installed using the existing screw holes with longer screws than the original. Ice picks line up the old holes. Butyl tape is applied to the valleys of the siding and to the back of the molding. We want that corner molding packed tightly with new, fresh butyl to prevent leaks.
Corner molding screws installed, and excess butyl oozes out to be trimmed flush. A heat gun was used during installation to help it flow out.
Next is the new front seam flat molding. It is cut to fit exactly between the left and right gutter rails, with the molding centered at the joint between the front siding and the roof. An additional layer of butyl can be added to level the step between the front siding and the roof.
A test fit before removing the release paper on the butyl on the back side of the flt molding. It has to fit between the left and right gutter rails. Once you remove the release paper and press it down, it is too late to shorten the molding length.
Additional butyl is applied at the joint to level the height, improve the molding-to-roof seal, and ensure a water-tight seal.
The front seam molding was installed, screwed down, and the excess butyl was trimmed. A heat gun warms the butyl to improve flow.
After the butyl stops oozing and is trimmed, the self-leveling lap sealant is applied over all exposed butyl, molding, and screws. More on how to ensure the caulking is applied correctly is provided later.
That is the process of creating the front and rear seams. Regarding how to cut the old roof metal and where, I'll type more tomorrow. I want to get some pics of the tools I would use as an option for what you may have.
If what I showed you above is more than you want to take on, we understand. This roof repair will take time. I also want to point out that, unfortunately, you will likely find more water damage than the one rafter you know about now when you remove the roof. The moisture meter can help determine that before you take the camper apart, once it thaws. We used to live in upstate NY, about 30 minutes south of Albany. Yes, we remember the cold. And this year, Ohio feels like NY does...
I hope this helps.
John
See reply 12 first, then start here.
When the rafters are repaired, and you have shimmed the first or second rafter as needed to create a straight line to the 1st rafter, the decking goes on. If you use 1/4" or 3/8", the same amount needs to be shaved by power sanding or power planing to create the plywood taper.
Here is a test fit of the front siding over the top of the first rafter. You can see that the plywood supports the siding, and the first rafter laying flat is where the front seam molding will screw into.
After the new membrane is glued on, apply high-quality butyl sealing tape in a layering sequence from the roof membrane to the siding, then to the front cap molding.
These pics are from a 2004 T1950 with a new roof using 1/4" plywood decking. The combo gutter rail. awning rail goes on first. New butyl tape is on the back of the molding to seal the screw and molding to the membrane.
Then the front siding was folded down and sealed with butyl tape along the bottom of the membrane, and stapled to the first rafter/decking. You can see the butyl tape in this pic as it is under the front siding. The staples are visible in this photo, very close to the edge of the siding metal, and will later be covered by the new flat-top molding at the front seam.
You can see the butyl tape here before the metal is placed over the butyl.
Next, we install the corner molding, which will tie in the front siding corner joint, the awning rail molding, and up onto the rooftop. This creates the end seal, preventing water from entering that corner.
These two pics are from a 2004 T2475. The corner molding is being installed using the existing screw holes with longer screws than the original. Ice picks line up the old holes. Butyl tape is applied to the valleys of the siding and to the back of the molding. We want that corner molding packed tightly with new, fresh butyl to prevent leaks.
Corner molding screws installed, and excess butyl oozes out to be trimmed flush. A heat gun was used during installation to help it flow out.
Next is the new front seam flat molding. It is cut to fit exactly between the left and right gutter rails, with the molding centered at the joint between the front siding and the roof. An additional layer of butyl can be added to level the step between the front siding and the roof.
A test fit before removing the release paper on the butyl on the back side of the flt molding. It has to fit between the left and right gutter rails. Once you remove the release paper and press it down, it is too late to shorten the molding length.
Additional butyl is applied at the joint to level the height, improve the molding-to-roof seal, and ensure a water-tight seal.
The front seam molding was installed, screwed down, and the excess butyl was trimmed. A heat gun warms the butyl to improve flow.
After the butyl stops oozing and is trimmed, the self-leveling lap sealant is applied over all exposed butyl, molding, and screws. More on how to ensure the caulking is applied correctly is provided later.
That is the process of creating the front and rear seams. Regarding how to cut the old roof metal and where, I'll type more tomorrow. I want to get some pics of the tools I would use as an option for what you may have.
If what I showed you above is more than you want to take on, we understand. This roof repair will take time. I also want to point out that, unfortunately, you will likely find more water damage than the one rafter you know about now when you remove the roof. The moisture meter can help determine that before you take the camper apart, once it thaws. We used to live in upstate NY, about 30 minutes south of Albany. Yes, we remember the cold. And this year, Ohio feels like NY does...
I hope this helps.
John
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JohnGB
Senior Member
Site Team
Hi Rob,
Happy Valentine's Day to you, too.
I will give you more when you can take some pictures, but this should help explain some of how to create a seam between your cut-off front and/or rear siding and the new roof membrane. These concepts are what you will need to create. You may not know how to do all of that until the roof metal is removed, so you can see what you have. You will likely need to install a new rafter at the joint between the siding and the new roof to secure the screws that fasten the molding.
Here is close to what you will end up with. These pics are from different repairs I have done, so I can get the right view to show you.
2004 T2475 roof repair.
Overview of the front right side & corner of the camper
Here is a close-up of the right roof line at the front. It shows where the 3 moldings meet to form the front of the roof membrane. The membrane is dirty in this pic; it's a repair, not a new roof.
A view looking across the roof
Your camper has a right corner molding as shown. This 2004 camper has a gutter/awning rail on the top-right side. Yours most likely does not have a gutter rail, as the roof metal folds down over the side wall, and may have an awning rail. There is also a top flat molding that screws down into a roof rafter to create the seam between the front siding and the roof membrane. Your camper does not have that, and you will be buying two new moldings, one for the front and one for the rear.
This link to AP products is to a supplier that offers them. They do not make them; they buy large quantities from the manufacturer and then package and sell them through other retailers. AP part number #021-54601-8 – Flat Trim Insert, 1-1/4″ X 1/5″ X 8′, Polar White
#021-54601-8 – Flat Trim Insert, 1-1/4″ X 1/5″ X 8′, Polar White – AP Products
After we see your pics, we can decide whether you also need the gutter rails, as they seal the membrane to the side of the camper. I can help suggest some places to buy the supplies when we get to that point. The prices are all over the place since Covid on these.
How do we create the wood structure for the front and rear seams? This will show how it is made; yours will be an adaptation of this.
These pics come from a 2006 T264SR, this will get a all new roof with 3/8" decking. These rafters are truss-style as Sunline converted to all truss rafters along the way. Most likely, yours are solid wood rafters sawn from 2x4s or 2x6s, or even ripped from 2x12s to save wood.
Here is the roof off, with no insulation; only the roof wood rafter setup at the front. There is a 2 x 3 lying flat where the front siding joint will go, and then two rafters of different center height to create the pitch down to the front being flat. These rafters are 4 1/2" tall at the center when there is no taper. So the main roof has 4 1/2" rafters at the center along the straight section of the roof. Your solid rafters, I'm not sure what the center measures. Maybe 3 1/2", but not sure.
After the rot repair,
A view with the right side siding installed
Since we are using plywood, the rafters must taper in height at the center, in a straight line, to the 2 x 3 at the end of the roof. A 2 x 4 lying flat can also be used.
You can see a gap at the 2nd rafter below the level. That gap must be filled to allow the plywood to be screwed to the rafter, creating a smooth transition. In this case, we used a custom top-shim rafter to fill the gap. More on how to create that shim later.
Happy Valentine's Day to you, too.
I will give you more when you can take some pictures, but this should help explain some of how to create a seam between your cut-off front and/or rear siding and the new roof membrane. These concepts are what you will need to create. You may not know how to do all of that until the roof metal is removed, so you can see what you have. You will likely need to install a new rafter at the joint between the siding and the new roof to secure the screws that fasten the molding.
Here is close to what you will end up with. These pics are from different repairs I have done, so I can get the right view to show you.
2004 T2475 roof repair.
Overview of the front right side & corner of the camper
Here is a close-up of the right roof line at the front. It shows where the 3 moldings meet to form the front of the roof membrane. The membrane is dirty in this pic; it's a repair, not a new roof.
A view looking across the roof
Your camper has a right corner molding as shown. This 2004 camper has a gutter/awning rail on the top-right side. Yours most likely does not have a gutter rail, as the roof metal folds down over the side wall, and may have an awning rail. There is also a top flat molding that screws down into a roof rafter to create the seam between the front siding and the roof membrane. Your camper does not have that, and you will be buying two new moldings, one for the front and one for the rear.
This link to AP products is to a supplier that offers them. They do not make them; they buy large quantities from the manufacturer and then package and sell them through other retailers. AP part number #021-54601-8 – Flat Trim Insert, 1-1/4″ X 1/5″ X 8′, Polar White
#021-54601-8 – Flat Trim Insert, 1-1/4″ X 1/5″ X 8′, Polar White – AP Products
After we see your pics, we can decide whether you also need the gutter rails, as they seal the membrane to the side of the camper. I can help suggest some places to buy the supplies when we get to that point. The prices are all over the place since Covid on these.
How do we create the wood structure for the front and rear seams? This will show how it is made; yours will be an adaptation of this.
These pics come from a 2006 T264SR, this will get a all new roof with 3/8" decking. These rafters are truss-style as Sunline converted to all truss rafters along the way. Most likely, yours are solid wood rafters sawn from 2x4s or 2x6s, or even ripped from 2x12s to save wood.
Here is the roof off, with no insulation; only the roof wood rafter setup at the front. There is a 2 x 3 lying flat where the front siding joint will go, and then two rafters of different center height to create the pitch down to the front being flat. These rafters are 4 1/2" tall at the center when there is no taper. So the main roof has 4 1/2" rafters at the center along the straight section of the roof. Your solid rafters, I'm not sure what the center measures. Maybe 3 1/2", but not sure.
After the rot repair,
A view with the right side siding installed
Since we are using plywood, the rafters must taper in height at the center, in a straight line, to the 2 x 3 at the end of the roof. A 2 x 4 lying flat can also be used.
You can see a gap at the 2nd rafter below the level. That gap must be filled to allow the plywood to be screwed to the rafter, creating a smooth transition. In this case, we used a custom top-shim rafter to fill the gap. More on how to create that shim later.
Last edited:
myabelle
Member
OK. I've reviewed a lot of info you have sent and will attempt to send pics.
1a) from left to right, corner molding and front wall seam
Awning side rails where they attach at the bottom front
At rear, wall seam and corner molding. I did some digging here, there was an old, covered-up opening here I think.
Left side front roof seam (I don't see any folded over roof metal)
Roof from above
Ran out of room...
1a) from left to right, corner molding and front wall seam
Awning side rails where they attach at the bottom front
At rear, wall seam and corner molding. I did some digging here, there was an old, covered-up opening here I think.
Left side front roof seam (I don't see any folded over roof metal)
Roof from above
Ran out of room...
Attachments
myabelle
Member
Here's the front
The back
And a couple extras
That's the rear bottom awning attachment.
I think there are little gutters on both sides.
Its a bit cramped on the door side in the barn, but hopefully these are OK.
Thanks John!
The back
And a couple extras
That's the rear bottom awning attachment.
I think there are little gutters on both sides.
Its a bit cramped on the door side in the barn, but hopefully these are OK.
Thanks John!
JohnGB
Senior Member
Site Team
Hi Rob,
You did very good on the pics. This really helps. I need to look into them a bit deeper to give you comments on what I see. It might take me a day or so, but I will get to it.
You asked about how to cut the metal roof. These are some common tools for cutting metal roofs. This is part of my collection of what we call "tins snips," a generic term for tools that can cut your roof metal. There are specialized tin snips that work better in certain situations. These shown here are the more standard ones. They are made specially to cut sheet metal. Think of them as scissors for metal.
Starting on the left are the yellow-, green-, and red-handled ones.
These are called aviation tin snips. They have a compound handle action that creates more cutting power with less hand effort, and they work well for both fine and general cutting. The yellow-handled one is for cutting in a straight line. That one pair can do the job on your roof. The green and red ones are for cutting left- and right-curves in metal, and in some cases, straight cuts if you can't get the yellow ones to align with how the metal will bend during cutting. You can buy the three aviation snips in a set or individually.
The next three are tin snips, but they have different features.
The smaller pair on the right is for thin sheet metal and cutting small shapes. The middle reddish color pair is the same style; they are larger and can cut thicker sheet metal because the longer handle provides more leverage. You will notice that the small and middle pairs of tin snips' cutting blade tips have a duckbill end. The duckbill-shaped cutting blade allows the tin snips to cut more effectively in situations where metal interferes with the cutting handle. Both of these pairs can make gentle curve cuts and do straight cutting well.
The larger blue pair on the left is considered the standard tin snip style. The cutting blades do not have the duckbill feature. These are good for straight long cuts. The longer handles and cutting blade mean more leverage and longer cuts.
The big blue pair would be good for the long run across the roof, as they will cut straight and faster. But because they are so large, they do not perform well on small, fine cuts, where you need a small pair, as the big ones are too bulky. If you owned only one pair of tin snips, the center-longer, handled duckbill ones could be used for all your roof cutting. It may take more cuts than the big blues one, but they will get the job done, and you already have them.
The last big red Milwaukee power tool on the far left is a double-cut metal power shear. They make these in corded and battery-powered versions. They make long cuts faster and easier, but they are bulky; for fine, small work, where small tin snips or aviation tin snips do the job very well. These power shears also cost more. If you have a friend who can lend one, they can be handy, but you do not have to go out and buy one to cut your roof. The hand snips will get the job done.
If you have to buy a pair, suggest the yellow-handle aviation tin snips or the red-handle medium-sized duckbill tin snips. Lumberyards, hardware stores, or even Harbor Freight carries them if you plan to use them only this one time. Tin snips can also cut materials other than metal, such as asphalt shingles and heavy cardboard.
I'll be back later with more on your pics.
John
You did very good on the pics. This really helps. I need to look into them a bit deeper to give you comments on what I see. It might take me a day or so, but I will get to it.
You asked about how to cut the metal roof. These are some common tools for cutting metal roofs. This is part of my collection of what we call "tins snips," a generic term for tools that can cut your roof metal. There are specialized tin snips that work better in certain situations. These shown here are the more standard ones. They are made specially to cut sheet metal. Think of them as scissors for metal.
Starting on the left are the yellow-, green-, and red-handled ones.
These are called aviation tin snips. They have a compound handle action that creates more cutting power with less hand effort, and they work well for both fine and general cutting. The yellow-handled one is for cutting in a straight line. That one pair can do the job on your roof. The green and red ones are for cutting left- and right-curves in metal, and in some cases, straight cuts if you can't get the yellow ones to align with how the metal will bend during cutting. You can buy the three aviation snips in a set or individually.
The next three are tin snips, but they have different features.
The smaller pair on the right is for thin sheet metal and cutting small shapes. The middle reddish color pair is the same style; they are larger and can cut thicker sheet metal because the longer handle provides more leverage. You will notice that the small and middle pairs of tin snips' cutting blade tips have a duckbill end. The duckbill-shaped cutting blade allows the tin snips to cut more effectively in situations where metal interferes with the cutting handle. Both of these pairs can make gentle curve cuts and do straight cutting well.
The larger blue pair on the left is considered the standard tin snip style. The cutting blades do not have the duckbill feature. These are good for straight long cuts. The longer handles and cutting blade mean more leverage and longer cuts.
The big blue pair would be good for the long run across the roof, as they will cut straight and faster. But because they are so large, they do not perform well on small, fine cuts, where you need a small pair, as the big ones are too bulky. If you owned only one pair of tin snips, the center-longer, handled duckbill ones could be used for all your roof cutting. It may take more cuts than the big blues one, but they will get the job done, and you already have them.
The last big red Milwaukee power tool on the far left is a double-cut metal power shear. They make these in corded and battery-powered versions. They make long cuts faster and easier, but they are bulky; for fine, small work, where small tin snips or aviation tin snips do the job very well. These power shears also cost more. If you have a friend who can lend one, they can be handy, but you do not have to go out and buy one to cut your roof. The hand snips will get the job done.
If you have to buy a pair, suggest the yellow-handle aviation tin snips or the red-handle medium-sized duckbill tin snips. Lumberyards, hardware stores, or even Harbor Freight carries them if you plan to use them only this one time. Tin snips can also cut materials other than metal, such as asphalt shingles and heavy cardboard.
I'll be back later with more on your pics.
John
JohnGB
Senior Member
Site Team
Hi Rob,
I looked at your pictures. You have a lot going on under the roof. I’ll explain what I see, then present some options for you to consider before you start opening the roof. This will be a lot to absorb. Take your time, think it all through, and let us know what you decide.
We also do not know how long you have had the camper. The assumption is that you acquired the camper within the last few years. And that you did not perform any roof coating or other maintenance on the roof. You bought or inherited the camper and roof in the condition we see now.
I see that someone removed the bathroom roof vent. I assume it may have been you or your husband after you found a leak in that area. There appears to be ongoing work at the right-rear roof corner, as evidenced by the visible black coating. There is a hammer on the roof with what appears to be a chisel, and a small pile of chipped-off roofing material.
If you can confirm I have the above right, and any history you know of when you acquired the camper.
Now to your pics.
I did not realize it until this pic that the rotted rafter in your bathroom is right at the roof AC unit. This is a problem because the rafter supports half of the AC unit's weight. That rafter needs repair; if left as is, the AC unit's weight may flex down into the ceiling, and worse things might happen.
Next is the right rear corner.
That corner is not good. I can see that the gutter rails’ screw heads on the last 2 screws have total rust on them from years ago. When those screws get like that, and you can unscrew them to confirm. The threads would be completely rusted, and there may be wood-rot goo on them if it is not frozen. The wood they are screwed into is rotted, and the rot accelerates corrosion on the threads and then extends to the head as the corrosion continues. They rust from the inside out.
The top awning bracket was not installed at the correct location. That is an older A&E awning, a reputable brand, but it was not installed by Sunline when the camper was new. A previous owner had it installed, and it may have been many years after the camper was new. It may have been installed after they learned there was wood rot in the area. The top awning arm bracket is supposed to be mounted with the gutter/in rail. There is a wood band board behind the gutter rail, and just below it, a wood top plate over a wall stud.
There are likely rotted rafter ends in this area. There was a leak in that area at one time. Caution to not walk in that area on the roof. It looks like a prior owner may have used tar, etc., to try to stop a leak.
See the front-right corner, where the awning rail is mounted correctly. Verify that the top awning arm bracket is pressing against the top of the gutter rail. The rear awning bracket should have been mounted that way if the wood behind the gutter rail was good wood.
More in the next reply
I looked at your pictures. You have a lot going on under the roof. I’ll explain what I see, then present some options for you to consider before you start opening the roof. This will be a lot to absorb. Take your time, think it all through, and let us know what you decide.
We also do not know how long you have had the camper. The assumption is that you acquired the camper within the last few years. And that you did not perform any roof coating or other maintenance on the roof. You bought or inherited the camper and roof in the condition we see now.
I see that someone removed the bathroom roof vent. I assume it may have been you or your husband after you found a leak in that area. There appears to be ongoing work at the right-rear roof corner, as evidenced by the visible black coating. There is a hammer on the roof with what appears to be a chisel, and a small pile of chipped-off roofing material.
If you can confirm I have the above right, and any history you know of when you acquired the camper.
Now to your pics.
I did not realize it until this pic that the rotted rafter in your bathroom is right at the roof AC unit. This is a problem because the rafter supports half of the AC unit's weight. That rafter needs repair; if left as is, the AC unit's weight may flex down into the ceiling, and worse things might happen.
Next is the right rear corner.
That corner is not good. I can see that the gutter rails’ screw heads on the last 2 screws have total rust on them from years ago. When those screws get like that, and you can unscrew them to confirm. The threads would be completely rusted, and there may be wood-rot goo on them if it is not frozen. The wood they are screwed into is rotted, and the rot accelerates corrosion on the threads and then extends to the head as the corrosion continues. They rust from the inside out.
The top awning bracket was not installed at the correct location. That is an older A&E awning, a reputable brand, but it was not installed by Sunline when the camper was new. A previous owner had it installed, and it may have been many years after the camper was new. It may have been installed after they learned there was wood rot in the area. The top awning arm bracket is supposed to be mounted with the gutter/in rail. There is a wood band board behind the gutter rail, and just below it, a wood top plate over a wall stud.
There are likely rotted rafter ends in this area. There was a leak in that area at one time. Caution to not walk in that area on the roof. It looks like a prior owner may have used tar, etc., to try to stop a leak.
See the front-right corner, where the awning rail is mounted correctly. Verify that the top awning arm bracket is pressing against the top of the gutter rail. The rear awning bracket should have been mounted that way if the wood behind the gutter rail was good wood.
More in the next reply
Last edited:
JohnGB
Senior Member
Site Team
Here is the next photo; it is on the left, right front. It was a good pic that I could talk to. The right side and the rear two corners share the same corner molding and roof-seam relationship. We need to discuss the roof metal cut and whether you will perform it. This roof repair is an involved project. All doable; I want you to realize how large a project this will become. After learning more about the work that needs to be done, you can determine which approach to take.
Here is your existing metal roof setup. Don’t worry about the roof cut just yet.
And see here, on a new rubber(flexible membrane) roof, in the process of caulking the front seam. This caulking seam is not yet complete. I want you to see the relationship between the front seam, the front siding, the gutter rail, and the corner molding. The corner molding extends past the top seam of the front siding. And the gutter rail stops about in the center of the top seam. The corner molding is installed over the top of the gutter rail to create a water-tight joint with the flexible membrane. I just happened to have this picture to show what needs to change on your “if” you go with a new flexible membrane roof.
Here is another view, just a different camper than above.
The issue is the corner joint, where the front siding, roof membrane, and gutter rails interact to create a robust water seal at that top corner. The camper flexes significantly at the corners when towing, so that joint must be robust.
On the metal roof, the corner molding stops before the gutter rail, and the roof-to-siding seam is behind the corner molding. The way the metal roof is made, with the metal edges folded over the side wall, works for the metal roof setup. But that same setup will not work well on a new flexible membrane roof. The flexible membrane folds down the side wall, the gutter rail covers the top of the flexible membrane, and the corner molding covers the top of the gutter rail. The flexible membrane also extends under the front siding and down the side wall under the gutter rail. This picture from a camper leak repair shows the flexible membrane running along the side of the camper. The gutter rail will cover it, and the membrane continues down the front wall, which the front siding and the left-to-right front seam molding will cover.
Here is the flexible membrane folded back over. You can see the first rafter is lying flat as the end of the front siding ends about in the middle of that front rafter, and the top seam molding screws to that first rafter.
Now, to the big-picture aspects of your roof repair. You have two options, maybe more, if you choose to take the camper apart and perform the roof repair.
Option 1: Cut out and remove the roof metal; it will not be reused. Repair all water-damaged wood, install new decking, and then install a new flexible membrane.
Option 2: Remove the existing roof intact for reuse. Repair all water-damaged wood; add new roof sealing tape to the interior seams of the old metal roof; clean the old metal roof; seal all seams on the metal roof; and reinstall the metal roof as originally installed.
Here is where you may not have thought of it yet.
First, the water damage is most likely more than you can see now. Yes, you have at least one rotted rafter near the front roof AC unit. The rafter is mounted on the top plate of the wall studs. Then there is the right-rear roof area damage, where the black, tar-like material is present. The water damage in the attic will affect the top of the wall. There is nothing to prevent roof leaks from reaching the tops of the wall studs if the leaks have been ongoing for an extended period.
To complete either option 1 or 2, the 4 corner moldings, the awning, and both gutter rails must be removed. All roof-mounted items need to be removed, as you know. The corner moldings are a major source of leaking into the corner wall studs. You will remove the old, deteriorated putty tape seal on the corner molding that has leaked, install new high-quality butyl tape, and perform a final caulk to create a double seal. The roof leaks; water flows down the camper’s corners under gravity, making them easier paths for water to flow. When you remove the corner molding, you will likely find some degree of wood damage that needs repair, as the corner molding screws have a lot of screw thread rust or no threads left at all. New screws at the corner molding need to be screwed into good wood to create a tight water seal.
To repair the corner wood, the front and rear wall siding will be removed. The top and rear siding sheets must be unstapled to gain access to the roof. Removing the front and rear siding is not difficult once explained, but it does take time. Again, perform all repairs from the outside to preserve the interior wall paneling. You do not need to remove the interior wallboard or cabinets unless there is major damage, as there is no wallboard left.
What is the difference between the two options? This is all after the water damage is repaired.
Option 1 requires new roof decking and a new membrane glued to it. You will need new front and rear seam moldings to create the seal from the front and rear siding to the roof. You will need either new corner moldings or at least small pieces to extend the existing corner moldings and create the correct corner joints.
You must cut the roof metal. I recommend cutting the roof twice. Do a rough cut 6” down towards the roof center of the front and rear metal seam as a rough cut. Once you lift off the center roof metal and repair all water damage, add a new rafter at the front and rear to create the final front wall siding to the roof seam and the back. Then you cut the metal in its final place to land in the correct location on the first and last rafter. You will not know where to do the final cut until you see what is under the roof. The cost for new materials will be higher on this option. It may not be a high cost in the big picture, but it is a cost.
Option 2 requires removing the entire roof and the front and rear top pieces of siding in one piece. This will most likely require additional people to manage a roof sheet that large. It may not be that heavy, but it is bulky. This is where a son, grandson, nephew, or good neighbor comes to help. When the roof is off, you will use a 4” wide roof sealing tape called Eternabond roof seal tape on all roof metal seams on the inside of the roof. When the roof is back on, you do the same on top of the roof.
Now to the biggest issue, cleaning up the old roof metal. If there is significant metal corrosion from wet wood, it needs to be addressed. Depending on the severity of corrosion, repair tape can be used on the inside and outside to seal the area and prevent leaks for spot treatment. Ideally, the roof can be cleaned back to the original metal as practically possible, especially at the roof seams, before applying the Eternabond sealing tape, as it must bond to a sound, clean surface to be effective. You may not know whether this option is feasible until the roof is removed. If you can clean it up sufficiently, it is a lower-cost option. And maybe a faster option. That tar-looking stuff at the right rear corner did not look good.
Regardless of which option you choose, annual maintenance will include inspecting the caulking seals on the roof and all moldings. If you notice a small crack during an inspection, clean the affected area and apply new caulk. After year 3, this becomes very important. Ideally, store the camper indoors over the winter, or use a camper cover if it is stored outside.
We have had a club member do option 2 and reuse the roof metal. It was on a Sunline truck camper, but your camper is small enough that the large roof sheet “might” not be that much longer than the truck camper. There are videos of it on the forum if you want to see them.
That is a lot to think about. I want to give you a reality check on what this may become once you open the camper up and perform any repairs, if you want it to last 10 years.
I hope this helps. We can provide more details once you have decided on the direction you want to go.
John
Here is your existing metal roof setup. Don’t worry about the roof cut just yet.
And see here, on a new rubber(flexible membrane) roof, in the process of caulking the front seam. This caulking seam is not yet complete. I want you to see the relationship between the front seam, the front siding, the gutter rail, and the corner molding. The corner molding extends past the top seam of the front siding. And the gutter rail stops about in the center of the top seam. The corner molding is installed over the top of the gutter rail to create a water-tight joint with the flexible membrane. I just happened to have this picture to show what needs to change on your “if” you go with a new flexible membrane roof.
Here is another view, just a different camper than above.
The issue is the corner joint, where the front siding, roof membrane, and gutter rails interact to create a robust water seal at that top corner. The camper flexes significantly at the corners when towing, so that joint must be robust.
On the metal roof, the corner molding stops before the gutter rail, and the roof-to-siding seam is behind the corner molding. The way the metal roof is made, with the metal edges folded over the side wall, works for the metal roof setup. But that same setup will not work well on a new flexible membrane roof. The flexible membrane folds down the side wall, the gutter rail covers the top of the flexible membrane, and the corner molding covers the top of the gutter rail. The flexible membrane also extends under the front siding and down the side wall under the gutter rail. This picture from a camper leak repair shows the flexible membrane running along the side of the camper. The gutter rail will cover it, and the membrane continues down the front wall, which the front siding and the left-to-right front seam molding will cover.
Here is the flexible membrane folded back over. You can see the first rafter is lying flat as the end of the front siding ends about in the middle of that front rafter, and the top seam molding screws to that first rafter.
Now, to the big-picture aspects of your roof repair. You have two options, maybe more, if you choose to take the camper apart and perform the roof repair.
Option 1: Cut out and remove the roof metal; it will not be reused. Repair all water-damaged wood, install new decking, and then install a new flexible membrane.
Option 2: Remove the existing roof intact for reuse. Repair all water-damaged wood; add new roof sealing tape to the interior seams of the old metal roof; clean the old metal roof; seal all seams on the metal roof; and reinstall the metal roof as originally installed.
Here is where you may not have thought of it yet.
First, the water damage is most likely more than you can see now. Yes, you have at least one rotted rafter near the front roof AC unit. The rafter is mounted on the top plate of the wall studs. Then there is the right-rear roof area damage, where the black, tar-like material is present. The water damage in the attic will affect the top of the wall. There is nothing to prevent roof leaks from reaching the tops of the wall studs if the leaks have been ongoing for an extended period.
To complete either option 1 or 2, the 4 corner moldings, the awning, and both gutter rails must be removed. All roof-mounted items need to be removed, as you know. The corner moldings are a major source of leaking into the corner wall studs. You will remove the old, deteriorated putty tape seal on the corner molding that has leaked, install new high-quality butyl tape, and perform a final caulk to create a double seal. The roof leaks; water flows down the camper’s corners under gravity, making them easier paths for water to flow. When you remove the corner molding, you will likely find some degree of wood damage that needs repair, as the corner molding screws have a lot of screw thread rust or no threads left at all. New screws at the corner molding need to be screwed into good wood to create a tight water seal.
To repair the corner wood, the front and rear wall siding will be removed. The top and rear siding sheets must be unstapled to gain access to the roof. Removing the front and rear siding is not difficult once explained, but it does take time. Again, perform all repairs from the outside to preserve the interior wall paneling. You do not need to remove the interior wallboard or cabinets unless there is major damage, as there is no wallboard left.
What is the difference between the two options? This is all after the water damage is repaired.
Option 1 requires new roof decking and a new membrane glued to it. You will need new front and rear seam moldings to create the seal from the front and rear siding to the roof. You will need either new corner moldings or at least small pieces to extend the existing corner moldings and create the correct corner joints.
You must cut the roof metal. I recommend cutting the roof twice. Do a rough cut 6” down towards the roof center of the front and rear metal seam as a rough cut. Once you lift off the center roof metal and repair all water damage, add a new rafter at the front and rear to create the final front wall siding to the roof seam and the back. Then you cut the metal in its final place to land in the correct location on the first and last rafter. You will not know where to do the final cut until you see what is under the roof. The cost for new materials will be higher on this option. It may not be a high cost in the big picture, but it is a cost.
Option 2 requires removing the entire roof and the front and rear top pieces of siding in one piece. This will most likely require additional people to manage a roof sheet that large. It may not be that heavy, but it is bulky. This is where a son, grandson, nephew, or good neighbor comes to help. When the roof is off, you will use a 4” wide roof sealing tape called Eternabond roof seal tape on all roof metal seams on the inside of the roof. When the roof is back on, you do the same on top of the roof.
Now to the biggest issue, cleaning up the old roof metal. If there is significant metal corrosion from wet wood, it needs to be addressed. Depending on the severity of corrosion, repair tape can be used on the inside and outside to seal the area and prevent leaks for spot treatment. Ideally, the roof can be cleaned back to the original metal as practically possible, especially at the roof seams, before applying the Eternabond sealing tape, as it must bond to a sound, clean surface to be effective. You may not know whether this option is feasible until the roof is removed. If you can clean it up sufficiently, it is a lower-cost option. And maybe a faster option. That tar-looking stuff at the right rear corner did not look good.
Regardless of which option you choose, annual maintenance will include inspecting the caulking seals on the roof and all moldings. If you notice a small crack during an inspection, clean the affected area and apply new caulk. After year 3, this becomes very important. Ideally, store the camper indoors over the winter, or use a camper cover if it is stored outside.
We have had a club member do option 2 and reuse the roof metal. It was on a Sunline truck camper, but your camper is small enough that the large roof sheet “might” not be that much longer than the truck camper. There are videos of it on the forum if you want to see them.
That is a lot to think about. I want to give you a reality check on what this may become once you open the camper up and perform any repairs, if you want it to last 10 years.
I hope this helps. We can provide more details once you have decided on the direction you want to go.
John
myabelle
Member
John, you are amazing. OK, we bought the camper early summer 2025, brought it home, tarped it and my friend moved into it for a month. All we have done is as you said, removed the vent and pulled out a little rot, and I chipped away at that tar spot at the rear, I believe it is a patch over an old vent or something. I'm still thinking we will be going with the plywood and membrane option. Idk how I'd clean up the metal, it sounds like a nearly impossible and highly unpleasant job. The roof doesn't appear to be supported by any subroof, so it warps down between the rafters and I think water would collect in those areas. Also, I think once we see what's under that tar spot, we're going to say "forget it" on saving the metal roof.
I'm going with this: "the 4 corner moldings, the awning, and both gutter rails must be removed. All roof-mounted items need to be removed" and I'll let you know when that's done. I'm not out to beat any speed records on this project, not to mention it's cold out there. I did find 5 tin snips out in the barn.
I'm going with this: "the 4 corner moldings, the awning, and both gutter rails must be removed. All roof-mounted items need to be removed" and I'll let you know when that's done. I'm not out to beat any speed records on this project, not to mention it's cold out there. I did find 5 tin snips out in the barn.
JohnGB
Senior Member
Site Team
Hi Rob,
Thank you for the good words. Must appreciated.
And yes, there is no wood support structure between the rafters. This was intentional on Sunline's part to reduce weight and allow more cargo for the user. They maintained the same design on the travel trailers through the end of production. They did offer a 3/8" thick partial or full walk-on decked roof if you ordered it. Most campers were sold as standard, which had the non-walk-on roof. They created a system that sheds rainwater, and most of the snow that Mother Nature can throw at it. However, over time, the metal can be stressed by snow loads or by improper precautions during roof work, causing the roof panels to sag between the rafters and allowing water to pool in low spots.
When Sunline stopped using metal roofs, EPDM rubber became the material of choice. They bonded (glued) the rubber membrane to a thick (approx. 3/32") and dense corrugated backer board, then pulled the entire assembly over the rafters and fastened it down, much like the older metal roof. When there is a leak, the corrugated structure deteriorates, and water pools quickly. On the rubber roof, pooling can cause additional water damage more quickly than on the old metal roofs. This all comes back to staying ahead of leaks, understanding how they occur, and how to prevent them. The same issue of flexing and ponding of water between the rafters can occur with this setup if excessive snow loads, or worse, someone working on the roof without proper support in place.
Other RV manufacturers also had non-walk-on roofs, so the concept was not unique to Sunline. Just Sunline may have held on to the concept longer.
With this non-walk-on roof, there are ways to service it; it's not hard once you understand the system and prepare. I'm passing this along in case you need to use this method to remove all items from your roof and to install your new roof. It starts with a sturdy, well-balanced step ladder on the side of the camper. This is a larger slide Sunline camper, ours, and they are higher, but the same thing applies to the smaller ones.
Next, place a trap, a moving blanket, or a thin carpet, as examples, on the roof where you will work to prevent roof membrane abrasion from the plywood sheets you will use. Then, using manageable-sized plywood sheets (3/8 to 1/2" thick), place them on top of the tarp, etc., to cover at least two rafters and distribute your weight. I use 3/8" thick 24" x 48" sheets for most work. Most rafters are on 16" centers or less, so the 24" crosses over 2 rafters as a minimum. You can cross more than two rafters if you need more room. That plywood size is large enough to work and small enough to carry up a ladder and place on the roof. I also have a few 3/8" x 30" x 40" sheets, as I have them lying around. Again, light enough to carry up the ladder, and large enough to span the rafters and spread out your weight.
When moving, keep on your hands and knees rather than standing, as this distributes your body weight more evenly and is safer than standing under the roof. Try not to walk while standing; standing up increases the risk if you step on the end of a board overhanging the rafter. The board can then pop up, and you may fall. Always have your body weight supported between the rafters, with plywood spanning them.
A safety note: take great care when climbing onto and off the ladder onto the roof, as shifting your weight from the ladder to the roof and from the roof to the ladder poses a risk. If you do not feel comfortable doing this, then don't. Keep the ladder as close to the side of the camper as possible, and do not allow it to touch/scratch the camper. When moving from ladder to roof, keep your body weight close to the camper and move only one foot at a time, keeping your weight toward the camper. Use the 3-point contact method when moving: one hand and two feet, or 2 hands and one foot, etc., are in contact with the roof and/or ladder. Only move the 4th body limb one at a time. By keeping your weight over the camper, you are less likely to tip the ladder away from it. The same principle applies when going from the roof back to the ladder.
NOTE: Since you know there are ratted rafters on the roof, test them by pressing down on them to make sure they are solid/sound enough before attempting to work on the roof itself. Do all you can from the side of the roof on a ladder until you know the condition of the rafters.
I'll add tips/methods to help take the camper apart more easily over the next few days.
Good luck with your project, and we are here to ask as needed.
John
Thank you for the good words. Must appreciated.
And yes, there is no wood support structure between the rafters. This was intentional on Sunline's part to reduce weight and allow more cargo for the user. They maintained the same design on the travel trailers through the end of production. They did offer a 3/8" thick partial or full walk-on decked roof if you ordered it. Most campers were sold as standard, which had the non-walk-on roof. They created a system that sheds rainwater, and most of the snow that Mother Nature can throw at it. However, over time, the metal can be stressed by snow loads or by improper precautions during roof work, causing the roof panels to sag between the rafters and allowing water to pool in low spots.
When Sunline stopped using metal roofs, EPDM rubber became the material of choice. They bonded (glued) the rubber membrane to a thick (approx. 3/32") and dense corrugated backer board, then pulled the entire assembly over the rafters and fastened it down, much like the older metal roof. When there is a leak, the corrugated structure deteriorates, and water pools quickly. On the rubber roof, pooling can cause additional water damage more quickly than on the old metal roofs. This all comes back to staying ahead of leaks, understanding how they occur, and how to prevent them. The same issue of flexing and ponding of water between the rafters can occur with this setup if excessive snow loads, or worse, someone working on the roof without proper support in place.
Other RV manufacturers also had non-walk-on roofs, so the concept was not unique to Sunline. Just Sunline may have held on to the concept longer.
With this non-walk-on roof, there are ways to service it; it's not hard once you understand the system and prepare. I'm passing this along in case you need to use this method to remove all items from your roof and to install your new roof. It starts with a sturdy, well-balanced step ladder on the side of the camper. This is a larger slide Sunline camper, ours, and they are higher, but the same thing applies to the smaller ones.
Next, place a trap, a moving blanket, or a thin carpet, as examples, on the roof where you will work to prevent roof membrane abrasion from the plywood sheets you will use. Then, using manageable-sized plywood sheets (3/8 to 1/2" thick), place them on top of the tarp, etc., to cover at least two rafters and distribute your weight. I use 3/8" thick 24" x 48" sheets for most work. Most rafters are on 16" centers or less, so the 24" crosses over 2 rafters as a minimum. You can cross more than two rafters if you need more room. That plywood size is large enough to work and small enough to carry up a ladder and place on the roof. I also have a few 3/8" x 30" x 40" sheets, as I have them lying around. Again, light enough to carry up the ladder, and large enough to span the rafters and spread out your weight.
When moving, keep on your hands and knees rather than standing, as this distributes your body weight more evenly and is safer than standing under the roof. Try not to walk while standing; standing up increases the risk if you step on the end of a board overhanging the rafter. The board can then pop up, and you may fall. Always have your body weight supported between the rafters, with plywood spanning them.
A safety note: take great care when climbing onto and off the ladder onto the roof, as shifting your weight from the ladder to the roof and from the roof to the ladder poses a risk. If you do not feel comfortable doing this, then don't. Keep the ladder as close to the side of the camper as possible, and do not allow it to touch/scratch the camper. When moving from ladder to roof, keep your body weight close to the camper and move only one foot at a time, keeping your weight toward the camper. Use the 3-point contact method when moving: one hand and two feet, or 2 hands and one foot, etc., are in contact with the roof and/or ladder. Only move the 4th body limb one at a time. By keeping your weight over the camper, you are less likely to tip the ladder away from it. The same principle applies when going from the roof back to the ladder.
NOTE: Since you know there are ratted rafters on the roof, test them by pressing down on them to make sure they are solid/sound enough before attempting to work on the roof itself. Do all you can from the side of the roof on a ladder until you know the condition of the rafters.
I'll add tips/methods to help take the camper apart more easily over the next few days.
Good luck with your project, and we are here to ask as needed.
John
myabelle
Member
Hi John,
Things are looking somewhat bleak, but I'm carrying on. I have the 2 side gutters off and the awning, I have removed all the screws from the roof things, except the a/c. And what the heck is this? Its a hole with no openings in the wood leading inside, except for the one made by the mouse who lived in this penthouse. The cover has a piece of styrofoam on top.
Things are looking somewhat bleak, but I'm carrying on. I have the 2 side gutters off and the awning, I have removed all the screws from the roof things, except the a/c. And what the heck is this? Its a hole with no openings in the wood leading inside, except for the one made by the mouse who lived in this penthouse. The cover has a piece of styrofoam on top.
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