refrigerator drain line

[j52wf]

Do any of the outside lines in back of the fridge get hot, other than the stack? My drain hose was cracked and broken off. Not willing to spend $200 labor to replace a $5 hose, so I slipped a 3/4" polyvinyl hose over the 1/2" hose and ran it up all the way to the drain port in back of fridge. I reduced it back to 1/2" and ran it out the vent. It was suggested to leave a small bend in the hose (like a p-trap) for water collection to prevent warm air infiltration into the back of the fridge (never did this before, but it makes sense). Because of this bend, the vinyl hose is touching the refrigerant lines. If they get warm/hot, I will eliminate the bend and just run the drain straight out the vent as before. Not using the rv for another week, so plenty of time to redo this.

 

[JohnGB]

The pipes on the back of the fridge do get warm/hot. Not as hot as the burner area, but hot.

Not sure of the exact temp. or if it will melt vinyl.

The standard Dometic hard hose cracking is fairly common. You can change it out yourself, but it will require you to pull the fridge about 3 to 6" out of the compartment hole. No need to take it totally out, just enough to be able to get your hand up behind the fridge.

The condensation loop, yes I have heard and seen that before. Just remember to blow it out (you can get to the hole inside the fridge with the drip tray removed) or let the loop go slack and drain it out when you winterize the camper.

 

[j52wf]

Thanks John. I'll guess I'll check out the lines when I start the fridge next week. For the amount of camping I do, that trap line will probably evaporate before winter. I will check regardless. I knew about pulling the fridge out a little, but I am not comfortable doing it considering what is at stake if I screw it up.

 

[j52wf]

Thanks John. I'll guess I'll check out the lines when I start the fridge next week. For the amount of camping I do, that trap line will probably evaporate before winter. I will check regardless. I knew about pulling the fridge out a little, but I am not comfortable doing it considering what is at stake if I screw it up.

The smaller refrigerant lines get pretty hot, but the accumulating tank only seems to get very warm. Finally found a YouTube video of a DIYer taking out his fridge after saying he was reluctant to tackle it. Great step-by-step instruction. Only 6 screws and the power/gas lines. Didn't take very long and really didn't seem that difficult, and he took his all the way out. I only have to move mine a little. I'll probably give it a shot AFTER I get back from my VA trip. The cabinet hinges/door catches I put on my access doors for the pump, water heater, and shower drain made dewinterizing and inspection much less if a PIA this year.

 

[JohnGB]

Jim, once unhooked, moving it 4 inches in or all the way out, the move is not a lot of difference. Just taking it all the way out, having a buddy to help grab it does help. To change you drain line, 4 to 6" will create lots of room to reach up from the back. You can move it more if needed.

 

[j52wf]

Here is the YouTube link:

 

[JohnGB]

Thanks for posting the link Jim.

A few things different on yours then his. He has a newer Dometic fridge so it looks and is a little different.

Inside the camper, at the top control panel area, yours has 2 screws also to come out. The plastic front top piece pops off and exposes them. They would not be sealed by the aluminum HVAC tape

Inside at the bottom of the fridge, the video showed he had to deal with a sealing material between the camper cabinet and the fridge. Sunline did not do any of that.

The rest is right on.

This guy must do video work for a living or a real hobby guy. He really made a good video with zoom in and out shots and word descriptions on top of it. Also good to see what the inside of a newer Airstream looks like. Nice, but I like my Sunline better.