Rebuilding Entry Door - 1989 T-2000

[wesleyfurr]

I have been having issues for a few years now with the door on our 1989 T-2000, doesn't want to close right, like it's sagging and hitting at the bottom corner and top side. Had it to the local RV place early this year and they did some repair work to fix a few rotted spots, mainly around the awning mounts, and installed a new awning. They also noted that the door was rotted and needed to be replaced. Rather than replace it with a new one that doesn't match, I am planning to try re-build it, doesn't seem like it should be but so hard to do. Worst-case, I'll have them put a new one on anyway.

Just wondering if anyone has any experience with such a thing? Any info or tips or tricks or things I should know first? The local RV shop cautioned at the inner and outer fiberglass panels are very fragile, so I'll definitely be careful with those. Guessing all the wood is likely not a standard size?

I just noticed the forum suggested a post for me, and found this thread - T2262 Door rebuild - definitely some handy photos there, assuming mine is built the same, and looks like it probably is. Still open to hear any other thoughts, but guessing those photos probably cover it better than anyone else could at this point...

Thanks in advance!

 

[Sunline Fan]

Yeah that looks like roughly what the job is. The doors changed to metal internal frames instead of all wood at some point in 1996. If you're going to sacrifice a panel, sacrifice the inner one so that the outer will still match when reassembled and done. But there's likely not much glue still holding it on anymore, so I don't think it'll break. Just be careful to not bend it back too far or else it will snap. Like no more than 30-45 degree angles of bend.

If you do damage the panel, you can buy new from Home Depot in a 4x8 sheet. It's called FRP panel, Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic. However that stuff is slightly thicker than the original, so you will need to use a router to shave off material around the edge so that the outer trim will fit back on.

If you want to improve on the construction of the door, once you have the new frame constructed, cut out the Styrofoam in the middle and screw in a wood brace horizontally just below the door latch box. That will significantly add strength to the door right where it has the most force, on the latch.

One important step is, particularly along the bottom, you will need to seal the outer trim when it goes back on, as well as the window and door latch too. The reason the original door rotted out is because water ran down the textured outside and went down inside the door where the molding goes over it. That molding is a channel that holds water, so the wood absorbed it and rotted. You would be best using something like butyl tape along the molding, maybe even doubled up, and really squeeze it into the textured surface. You could also try something flexible like Dicor roof sealant (don't use silicone as it's not flexible enough) as a liquid alternative, but you will want to lay masking tape down just above where the molding would stop to help get a clean line when you're done.

Note these doors were made by an external company (Phillips Industries, I believe), not Sunline. They bought the assemblies in frames with the screen doors and everything and simply stuck the striping on the outside.

 

[wesleyfurr]

Thanks so much, that all is a big help! I like the idea of adding more support to it. Seems like something diagonal would be a big help too, but if the middle is a big piece of styrofoam, that could be a little harder to do, but maybe not...

Interesting that the RV place that did some other work recommended sealing it all up with silicone. I've heard before that silicone is not recommended as it doesn't necessarily work perfectly, and then you can never clean it off well enough to seal over it again. Of course I asked them to seal everything all over good as I couldn't seem to get it done well enough...and they used silicone. Everywhere. Oh well... I'll see about butyl tape or dicor for the door. Thankfully I do have it parked under a carport type cover the last dozen years or so, though it does get some rain that blows in occasionally, but at least it's not totally exposed unless we're out camping.

Do you happen to know approximate dimensions on the lumber used in the door? I'm assuming whatever I get will need to be trimmed down to work properly, but not sure where to start without having it apart already. I'd like to go ahead and pick up some so I hopefully have on hand what is needed. Hoping to get this done the coming weekend.

 

[JohnGB]

Hi Wesley,

I'll second, our third, etc, do not use the silicone on the door. The bond will not last in the long term. The silicone caulk might, but not the bond to the metal, wood, or fiberglass. The glob of silicon will remain intact, but not the bond to the metal, etc.

Non-leveling Dirco or Proflex RV on the door will work. I also agree, commercial-grade building butyl tape is also good. Avoid using the putty tape from the RV dealer; they use it on the doors or windows, etc, to secure it to the siding. Yes, the putty tape does work and the RV industry uses a lot of it, but it does not last much past 3 years in the full sun, where it starts shrinking and separating from the two parts it was applied to. Visit a building supply store or lumber yard and inquire about high commercial-grade butyl tape designed for sealing steel buildings, pole barns, and similar structures. Yes, it is super sticky, but it works and lasts. Cap seal any exposed butyl with Dicro non-leveling or Propfelx RV to prevent dirt from sticking, and apply a second layer of sealing.

Good luck with your rebuild, and let us know how you make out.

John