Norcold N811 Frig

[poppyandnana]

On our last camping trip I noticed something "different" while using our Norcold N811 frig.


At times you could hear a "clicking or ticking" noise from the frig and at the same time the green light on the panel would dim/pulse along with the clicking/ticking.


I monitor the temperature at all times in the frig and it never seemed to not work - keeping the interior temp around 40-42F (it was extremely hot outside)....however it continued to click/dim during our trip.


My question is what could cause this and why?



We are planning a 3 week trip in October and certainly do not want to have a situation where the frig will stop working!

OK EVERYONE - I know Sunline uses Dometic refrigerators but I am having a problem with my Norcold N811 unit! - Does anyone have any idea if this is something that needs to be addressed or is it normal????

No one over on Dutchmen forum seems to know - so I am coming to my good friends over here on the Sunline forum!

Thanks all!
Kathy

 

[krazedave]

Long distance troubling shooting is not easy, but the only clicking noise is usually from the fridge trying to light the burner. That said, I would remove the burner tube cover and clean the end of the burner tube. It could be partially blocked and not fire until a enough gas build up. Without seeing unit it is hard to figure what is wrong.

 

[poppyandnana]

Long distance troubling shooting is not easy, but the only clicking noise is usually from the fridge trying to light the burner. That said, I would remove the burner tube cover and clean the end of the burner tube. It could be partially blocked and not fire until a enough gas build up. Without seeing unit it is hard to figure what is wrong.

Dave my bad - I was running on electric.....would a low voltage make it happen? DH reminded me that the fairground had "low power" then no power when a transformer blew up.....we do have a surge protector unit and always use it and did that week as well.....

 

[Gene-SUN]

I did some looking for Norcold N811 info and didn't find any real suspect for the clicking while running on AC so I will throw out some info I did find and see if anything "fits".

The control panel lights work from the 12 volts DC.

Should work within these voltage ranges:
AC volts 108 to 132
DC volts 10.5 to 15.4 for control panel

Assuming the gas light was not on or did not flash the fridge will give some fault codes: (if gas light was on or flashed there are more codes)

ON light is on but flashes off 1 time about every 3 seconds
--- The temperature sensor failed. The fridge is operating on the "Back-up Operating System"

ON light is on but flashes off 4 times about every 3 seconds
--- This is a fault within the fridge operating controls

(maybe if it was sending fault codes the light was controled by a clicking relay )

There is an optional external fan controled by a little thermostatic disk. I have no idea just where they are located. Maybe the fan starting would cause a sound and dim the lights.

I don't know if any of this helps but it may be a start in eliminating things.

 

[Tweety]

Foxy has a Norcold, which I like so much better than the Dometic, mostly because of the door latch mechanism being superior we've never heard a noise from it, and we're both sensitive to any noise like that at night. Have you tried plugging it in at home where you know the electricity is good? It seems suspicious that there were power problems when you noticed the clicking. Maybe it has some sophisticated safety feature and was trying to switch over to gas, even though you had it on electric.

 

[poppyandnana]

Thanks guys! I told Leo we need to plug into our home power.....we just have not gotten that far yet!

 

[JohnGB]

Hi Kathy,

Is 42F all it gets down too, ever? That is not very cold.

The clicking, is it a pattern? like 1 tick every second? or is it random?

Is the clicking going on non stop or does it come and go?

Did you try it on gas and does it work and the clicking stop?

I do agree, short of pulling out a meter and digging in troubleshooting, plug into a good source of electricity. If at the campground, do you have a generator? You then know you have good clean power. If it stops clicking on the genny when still on electric and starts up again on CG power, well the voltage may be low and like what was said, trying to flip back and forth to gas.

Hope this helps

John

 

[poppyandnana]

Hi Kathy,

Is 42F all it gets down too, ever? That is not very cold.
No that is the warmest it got.....and it was a HOT day (high 80F and sitting in the direct sun~no shade at all !)

The clicking, is it a pattern? like 1 tick every second? or is it random?
It will run fine for a long time and then it will start the clicking and it is a pattern every second or so.....will have to check to see when/if it stops....

Is the clicking going on non stop or does it come and go?
It comes and goes (if I remember correctly)

Did you try it on gas and does it work and the cilicking stop?
No

I do agree, short of pulling out a meter and digging in troubleshooting, plug into a good source of electricity. If at the campground, do you have a generator? You then know you have good clean power. If it stops clicking on the genny when still on electric and starts up again on CG power, well the voltage may be low and like what was said, trying to flip back and forth to gas.

Hope this helps

John

I wrote Norcold and their response was to take it to an authorized dealer.....no help at all!

I have a feeling it is related to the low power - I'm off today from work - so I may go out and plug in the TH and see what happens.....

Thanks EVERYONE! I'll keep yo posted!

 

[JohnGB]

The igniter fires off at about 1 second intervals. Snap, snap, snap once a second. And if the LP gas is not turned on, it will not light off or if the lines are not purdged out. They snap at 1 second intervals for up to approx. 45 seconds. Then stop, let the gas purge out and start over.

That said, I'm "assuming" Norcold has a similar try 3 sets of firing sequences and shut down and throw a fault code. On the Dometic this can take several minutes to work through to throw the code.

If the voltage goes up and down during this long sequence, it will reset itself and you may never get a fault code.

Good luck and report back. We all learn on these things.

 

[poppyandnana]

OK here is an update!

Started frig on propane today - have be in and out of the TT many times and have NOT hear the "clicky" noise! That is a good thing - at least I know I can keep food in the frig for our October trip! Oh and John B temp is town to 36F after it being on for about 8 hours - no food in frig.

Tomorrow I will have Leo plug into house electric and check it out.....if push comes to shove I guess I'll buy a new board......but we will see!

 

[poppyandnana]

OK here is an update!

Started frig on propane today - have be in and out of the TT many times and have NOT hear the "clicky" noise! That is a good thing - at least I know I can keep food in the frig for our October trip! Oh and John B temp is town to 36F after it being on for about 8 hours - no food in frig.

OK so the last time I checked (around 8pm last night) everything was fine - at 8am this morning - went out - no blinking "code lights" BUT the frig was 60F - no propane running - first thought out of propane but NO - once I shut the door after checking the temp the propane kicked in......this is so frustrating.

Gonna have to find an authorized dealer in the area!!!!

 

[poppyandnana]

OK so the last time I checked (around 8pm last night) everything was fine - at 8am this morning - went out - no blinking "code lights" BUT the frig was 60F - no propane running - first thought out of propane but NO - once I shut the door after checking the temp the propane kicked in......this is so frustrating.

Gonna have to find an authorized dealer in the area!!!!

It has been running with no problems on electric since noonish - go figure!!!

 

[MACK C-85]

Intermittent issues are the worst! Obviously, opening and closing the door jarred something, now the bear is figuring out what that something is.

 

[poppyandnana]

Well after 24 hours on electric - the clicking returned......calling someone today!!!

 

[poppyandnana]

QUESTION! Leo shuts off the battery when we are connected to house current - does the refrigerator need 12v to work while connected to house current????

 

[Gene-SUN]

The Norcold fridge does need 12 volts but the converter should supply it with the battery turned off. If the 12 volt lights work then the fridge should work too. Some converters can be "noisy" (electrical noise) and with the battery connected, the battery effectively filters that electrical noise.

 

[poppyandnana]

Thanks Gene - I was not sure if the battery had to be on!!!! Guess it is time to buy a new control panel.....

 

[JohnGB]

Something not adding up unless you ahve corroded connections.

Started hunting on your fridge

From the user manual.
AC Operation 120 volts AC voltage
(132 volts max. - 108 volts min.)
12 volts DC control voltage
(15.4 volts max. - 10.5 volts min.)

Power should not be the issue here. unless it is not getting it at the infeed to the system or has a bad ground.

And found this

What is covered by this warranty?
- Defects in material and workmanship.
- Parts and labor for two (2) years
- Parts only for the third year if the required maintenance is performed.
- Freight (ground service only) for shipment of a replacement part
and for return of the defective part.

Your unit is not 2 years old yet. It should be under warranty. This may help on the money side of things.