New trailer jack needed

photokit

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Posts
260
Hello all, my trailer jack on my T 1850 doesn't work anymore, and I attached one of those side mount jacks. I don't like it, in fact, I had to move the location of my double propane bottles back a little to crank it. And that puts those bottles up against my battery boxes. I prefer finding a replacement for the original jack. Here's the issue, the two holes that allow me to replace that jack are 2 1/4" at the top hole and 1.75 at the bottom hole. I'm having a bit of a hard time finding jacks that are that narrow, most are 2" at the smallest. Has anyone here replaced the original jack? I'm looking at the A frame trailer Jack -sidewind- 1000lbs. The T 1850 when loaded is probably about 3500 at most, so 350 tongue weight. I think the etrailer A frame jack might fit, but the top tube seems a bit longer than the one I'm replacing.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Jack/Dutton-Lainson/DL22530.html
 
I ordered this one from Home Depot. Top tube is 2", lower tube is 1 3/4. I'll try it or return it.

Ultra-Fab Products Ultra Sidewind Manual Tongue Jack, 2 in. Tube, 1000 lbs.
Capacity: 1,000 lbs.
Heavy duty steel construction
Universal mounting flange
Uses 3/8 in. bolt
1-3/4 in. Dia. Inner Tube
 
Last edited:
Here's the issue, the two holes that allow me to replace that jack are 2 1/4" at the top hole and 1.75 at the bottom hole. I'm having a bit of a hard time finding jacks that are that narrow, most are 2" at the smallest.

Hi Kit,

A few things, I totally agree do not use the side frame mounted style jack. In the case of a camper, the A frames (the side rails of the trailer hitch) are not made to hold the camper up by only one side. Over time, using the side jack and twist the frame. Using the center jack location in the ball coupler lifts equally on the sides of the A frame.

Now to your center jack issue.


A 2 1/4" top hole and a 1 3/4" bottom hole, that sounds odd, but it maybe if someone welded on a lot smaller bottom plate to support the jack.

H'mm, I dig some more but I have not been able to find a 1 3/4" A frame bottom support plate. This may be a "vintage" issue. The bottom support plate looks like this before they welded it on the trailer so you know what I am talking about.

They look like these from the Etrailer site https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Accessories_and_Parts-pt-Support_Plates.aspx

Your camper though is older and I know some of the older bottom support plates use to be in the 1 7/8" range as it was a little smaller then the top hole at 2". It seems as time went on, those smaller hole sizes have since changed.

Let me ask this, are you sure the bottom hole is 1 3/4"? On your older camper is may be, but I am just double checking.

Bal RV products does make a 1,000# ball coupler jack, the jack tube is 1 7/8". See this product cut sheet https://balrvproducts.com/products/consumer/tongue_jacks/tongue_jacks.shtml

The Bal 29015 up to the 29024 are the 1,000# jacks, just the tube lengths are different.

"Normally" the A frame bottom support plate fits the jack "outer" tube, not the "inner" tube. The Ultra Fab you picked has a 2" outer tube. I sense that is not going to work on the your bottom support plate.

I am out of time at the moment, but I will hunt some later to see if I can find an older 1,000# jack with a smaller then the Bal outer tube. It seems common now that the jack start with a 2" outer tube and that is too big.

Do you have the old jack still? What brand was it and any pics?

Worst case if we cannot hunt down a smaller outer jack, the hole in the bottom support plate can be enlarged. A welding place has the tools that can grind out the lower plate to fit. It does not want to be lots bigger, just to fit the outer tube. Way too big does not help give enough side support.

Hope this helps

John
 
Yes, I have old jack

I did the best I could to record the measurement but it probably was closer to 1 7/8 at the bottom hole on the A-frame. I have the old jack. the gear was stripped I tried to repair the gear and fabricate a new gear but it kept slipping. I think the jack you sent a link to could work, it’s tough to get down and grind that bottom hole as it’s in such an awkward spot. I’m going to post a photo of the old jack.
 
Hi Kit,

This pic shows the rusted wear witness line (rub line) of where the A frame bottom support plate touches the jack "outer" tube. The rust line is about ~ 1 1/2' to 2" above the bottom of the outer tube.

4081-albums865-picture7153.jpg


Point being, the hole in the A frame support plate has to be equal to or slightly larger then the outside diameter of the outer tube, not the inner tube.

Your jack foot by this pick, comes out to be 1 7/8" OD if your tape measure tip if not out of calibration.

4081-albums865-picture7151.jpg


Not sure where you are at on this right now, but this might help to sort out what the A frame support plate hole really is.

Since you have a tape measure, there is a more accurate way to measure then to use the silver angle tip to declare your starting zero point. The sliver tip slides back and forth to be able to do inside and outside measurements with the silver clip. The sliding action compensates for the thickness of the silver clip. Sometimes that sliding tip gets made wrong, worn/bent wrong or used wrong. I can explain more on the silver tip etc. on why it can more more inaccurate for close measurements if you want, just ask, but try this instead.

If you want to get a more accurate measurement, you do not use the silver tip. We use a method what we call, set your zero mark on a whole number in place of the silver tip. It can be any whole number, but in many cases you just pick the 1" line mark.

Using 2 hands helps to steady the tape measure blade, line up by eye the side you want as a starting point as exact as you can with the number 1" line. Try and get the 1" mark dead on the edge you are starting on.

Then position the tape measure blade "edge" you used as the 0" mark as exact as you can, right across the center of the item you want to measure. In this case the A frame lower jack tube hole right down the center of the hole. Then look at the dimension on how long it is, and read the number. Double check your 0" mark is still right on the 1" line. Then subtract 1" from the total distance. This method still has some small error in it as you are eye balling the measure points, but it is more accurate then using the sliver tip if you do not know the tape is still in calibration.

You may have to get on the ground and look up at the hole in the lower A frame support plate to measure it as getting in on the top is too tight and the ball coupler is in the way.

Another way to check what the old jack outer tube is, is to measure the outside circumference. You know that old jack tube fit in the hole and that is what you want the new jack to be. I did the math for you, but circumference uses a formula: Pi(D) = Circumference. Pi = 3.1416, D = the OD of the part you are measuring.

For a OD of 1 7/8" we use 3.1416(1.875") = 5.890" and that decimal number is 1/64th larger then 5 7/8" on the tape measure.

For a OD of 1 3/4" we use 3.1416(1.75") = 5.497" and that decimal number is very tiny bit (0.003") less then 5 1/2" on the tape measure.

You can see that there is good size difference between a 1 7/8" OD and a 1 3/4" OD to the tune of a little more then 3/8" and that is really easy to find on a tape measure.

Take a tape measure, (a smaller width blade works better then a wide one) and wrap the tape around the tube OD. Use or 1" or 2" as your zero mark and read the circumference distance less the 1" or 2" offset for zero.

Here is a basic show and tell on doing OD measuring. https://www.wikihow.com/Measure-Pipe-Size

You can also use a piece of paper to wrap around the OD of the outer jack tube. Mark a starting line on the sheet of paper, wrap it tight around the OD back to the the starting line. Mark the paper where the starting line aligns with the full wrap. (You can use the edge of the paper as your starting line if wanted) Lay the paper flat, then use the tape measure and start on 1" mark and measure the length between the 2 marks and that distance laying flat is the circumference of the old jack outer tube.

The Bal jack had a 1 7/8" OD outer tube, if your old Atwood also had a 1 7/8" OD tube, then all is good with the new Bal jack, just get the one with the right jack post travel.

If the hole is still too small, the I can explain hole to grind or file it out larger to fit.

Let us know how it goes or you need more help.

John
 
I had the same problem. I took a 4.5 inch grinder and opened the 1.75" hole to 2" Between the grinder and a dremel, no issue.

Meanwhile I don't even use the jack anymore. I bought a 2 ton floor jack, 6 squares of 2x10 pine,1 2x10x2' that I carry with me now and its 10x faster and easier. I also carry a bottle jack just in case.
 
The Home Depot jack arrived quickly (I ordered it for pickup at local HD). When I tried to install it on the frame, the lower plate hole was just a tad too small, so I used a flap grinding wheel on my cordless. It worked like a charm. I just need to add thin washers to the bolts on the triangular plate. More photos in my album.
4081-albums865-picture7176.jpg
 
The Home Depot jack arrived quickly (I ordered it for pickup at local HD). When I tried to install it on the frame, the lower plate hole was just a tad too small, so I used a flap grinding wheel on my cordless. It worked like a charm. I just need to add thin washers to the bolts on the triangular plate. More photos in my album.

Nice job! I found that when i did a similar thing, I didn't like that when the jack was all the way up how low the jack was too the ground. So I got some Longer Bolts to attach the jack to the frame, and then got some of the next size up bolts to use as spacers between the jack and the frame to space the jack up an inch.
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom