Exterior Wall Aluminum Replacement/Rehab

[SSF156]

I tried to reseal the window on my 1981 bit failed. There's a leak and some of the wood inside is rotting. In the process I bent some of the exterior aluminum. Any guidance on how to remove the panels and how to replace them? Even if I can get it by the kind of bend them back that would be great. What size aluminum sheeting should I look for?

Please note that I did eternip on tape, the edges and caulked. I know I'll have to go from the inside and tear the wall out as well to redo everything. At least that will be my strategy.

New photo · Sunday, May 25 ð¸

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[JohnGB]

Hi,

If you have wood rot, the leak has likely been ongoing for some time, possibly for many years. The putty tape seal between the window metal frame and the siding is most often the issue. The putty tape dries out, cracks, and then water seeps in over time between the siding and the window frame, which is screwed to the wall wood.

You mentioned tearing out the wallboard, etc, and fixing the problem from the inside out. I would not recommend that approach, as you cannot staple the siding to the repaired wood if you do it that way. You want to repair, from the outside in, the way the camper was built. That means the siding will come off, then you deal with the wood studs, etc, as needed. Then you can staple the siding back to the new wooden studs. While this may sound daunting, removing the siding is not as difficult as it seems. However, the first time you attempt it, without knowing how to do it, can deter most people from using this method.

Please take a look at these two posts, which include numerous pictures, for guidance on how to proceed.

Repairing ceiling and wallboards using resin treatment

2004 T2475 Repair - Project Camper No 2

I have additional posts on this topic if needed, including instructions on how to reassemble and seal it better than new. Just ask if you plan to use the outside-in approach, and I'll find them for you. Yes, more reading and lots more pictures.

I see you used Eternabond. A heat gun is your friend for warming it (do not overheat), and then you can scrape that off. Mineral spirits will clean off the last super-thin goo that will not scrape off and not damage the paint. Then use a high-flash cleaner to remove any residual mineral spirits film before you start reassembling it. I use Naphtha if you can still find it. Denture alcohol also works, but it lacks the cleaning action of Naphtha. However, it will remove the film of leftover mineral spirits. Both of those high-flash cleaners will not take the paint off. Some paint thinners and lacquer thinners can remove the paint. And, for sure, do not use acetone, as it will remove the paint.

I hope this helps, and I'm happy to help you with anything else.

John

 

[SSF156]

Thanks!

Where can I find new aluminum paneling? I bent the crap out of some of the panels and need a replacement.

 

[JohnGB]

Thanks!

Where can I find new aluminum paneling? I bent the crap out of some of the panels and need a replacement.

I have never bought from these folks, but I have saved this link in case I need them. I'm sure I will need to use them someday. We have had a club member buy from them, and they reported a positive outcome.

Hemet Valley RV Siding and Aluminum RV Travel Trailer Siding | Hemet Valley RV

Since your pieces are short, the freight will be easy. Getting 8 1/2" ft length requires truck freight.

Here are other places I bookmarked. I have not yet used any of these vendors.

Interstate Metal and Supply Interstate RV Metal & Supply

This may be for really older campers, but they may be able to get siding. Heintz Designs – Heintz Designs Vintage Trailer Restorations

Here is another one, Mac's Aluminum. RV Aluminum Siding in Bristow, OK - Mac's Aluminum

And these folks, Allrite Manufacturing Custom RV Parts | Specialty Vehicle & Concession Product

I would start with Helmet Valley. I had a close friend call them, trying to get the gold krinkle pattern siding on the newer 2007 Sunlines on the bottom. He had a mishap and hit it. The guy he talked to was very knowledgeable in the siding industry and sadly that gold krinkle pattern is no longer made and they can't get that material but they can make most of all the other siding on the Sunlines.

If you do get some, please post back to help the club. Odds are, you will need to remove the siding to obtain accurate measurements of the overlap joints. And if required, even send them a sample.

I have some of the new Sunlines in my back barn, all apart, waiting for "time" to get to restoring them, but they are from the 2003-2007 vintage. I'm not sure yours is the same pattern, but I can measure what I have if needed.

I hope this helps,

John

 

[SSF156]

I have never bought from these folks, but I have saved this link in case I need them. I'm sure I will need to use them someday. We have had a club member buy from them, and they reported a positive outcome.

Hemet Valley RV Siding and Aluminum RV Travel Trailer Siding | Hemet Valley RV

Since your pieces are short, the freight will be easy. Getting 8 1/2" ft length requires truck freight.

Here are other places I bookmarked. I have not yet used any of these vendors.

Interstate Metal and Supply Interstate RV Metal & Supply

This may be for really older campers, but they may be able to get siding. Heintz Designs – Heintz Designs Vintage Trailer Restorations

Here is another one, Mac's Aluminum. RV Aluminum Siding in Bristow, OK - Mac's Aluminum

And these folks, Allrite Manufacturing Custom RV Parts | Specialty Vehicle & Concession Product

I would start with Helmet Valley. I had a close friend call them, trying to get the gold krinkle pattern siding on the newer 2007 Sunlines on the bottom. He had a mishap and hit it. The guy he talked to was very knowledgeable in the siding industry and sadly that gold krinkle pattern is no longer made and they can't get that material but they can make most of all the other siding on the Sunlines.

If you do get some, please post back to help the club. Odds are, you will need to remove the siding to obtain accurate measurements of the overlap joints. And if required, even send them a sample.

I have some of the new Sunlines in my back barn, all apart, waiting for "time" to get to restoring them, but they are from the 2003-2007 vintage. I'm not sure yours is the same pattern, but I can measure what I have if needed.

I hope this helps,

John

Are you located in Delco?

I will inquire with Hemet Valley RV. After some deeper consideration I will only need the panels directly next to the windows. So, I may be able to escape with one piece? I will measure and confirm. If you look closely I only damaged two pieces.

So, where can I find that plastic trim that goes along the outer edge? It is that white piece that slides between the grooves. I am not sure how else to describe it.

My only issue is that I do not have a garage to work on this trailer. If I did, this would be finished by now. xD I will have to reframe the window. I will look at your guide that you shared.

 

[SSF156]

Also an update, I'll only require two 12" x 12" panels of aluminum. Not sure of the lip and overhang sizes. Any clues where I can source this?

I'm taking it to a local shop. Just wondering about how much it'll be to reframe inside the window.

 

[JohnGB]

Hi,

I'll get back to you, but I've been too busy, sorry.

I'll give you the easy answer first: the vinyl insert trim, or vinyl ball screw cover. Yours should be a 1" wide when it is flat. I use the Camco brand and some others, but on the 1" wide, the Camco has always worked out well.

Here is White on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25212-Vinyl-Insert-Black/dp/B0006JLW5M/ref=sr_1_4

They used to make beige, which might match your camper better. It appears that it may have been discontinued, unless you can find it in stock at a retailer. Ebay has some, but prices are all over the place. Camco 25252-100ft. Beige Vinyl Trim Insert for sale | eBay

You can remove your old one, press it flat, and then measure. It may have shrunk, but there is a 1" and 3/4" insert trim. I have never seen it shrink 1/4", but there may be other places, cargo doors, etc, on the camper that use the 3/4", but the corner molding has been 1" most of the time. Check before ordering.

Now, to the window frame and your siding. Regarding the rotted window frame, I want to be as straightforward as possible, but I also want to prepare you for what you may encounter with this issue. The odds are high that the rot extends beyond just the window frame wood. The water flows down by gravity, and it seeps. Odds are, the wood under the window, all the way down to the bottom of the siding, has sustained damage.

There are ways you can confirm this.

1. Use a moisture meter, as discussed in this thread. Ideally, you can obtain the same brand and model, as I have extensive data on the "wall mode" scale. You can scan the wall for wetness behind the wall panels. Moisture Meters For Inspecting a Camper

2. Additionally, knowing where to look can indicate if the bottom of the front wall has water damage inside the wall cavity, and you do not need to purchase anything to conduct this check. Go to the front of the camper and look at the bottom piece of siding, the piece right above the steel A-frame. There is a series of screws that hold the bottom piece to the front of the camper. Remove those screws and examine the threads.

See here, this is a newer camper, but it has the same issue. In this case the heads of the screws are rusted in this pic

These are mildly rusted, but you can see what I'm talking about

A front wall or corner leak ends up with the board behind the bottom panel getting water-infected from all the water that has accumulated over the years. The wet wood, rusts the screws from the inside out. And when the corrosion has been going on long enough, the rust spreads from the threads to the screw head. You may have good-looking screw heads, but still have rusted or goo in the threads.

If you have those screws rusted, post a few pictures and I can probably tell you what you'll find inside.

This is not all gloom and doom; it is all fixable if you have standard wood tools and basic carpentry skills. The first time you do this, there is the unknown, so it will take you longer to complete. However, after you have done enough of this, all the siding up to the window can be removed and still be usable in about 4 to 8 hours. The wood rebuild will take longer, and the cleanup of the siding before you put it back on.

The corner moldings must be removed first. And they can be reused. Then, the siding is stapled to the wood, and you pull the staples out; the siding comes off from the bottom up. You can also see how the siding joints are formed and how to get your new siding pieces.

On the newer campers, Sunline pumped butyl caulk in the siding joints, so you have to use a heat gun to warm the top joint to get it to release from the sheet about a joint. War, pull, warm some more unto it starts to release. I'm not sure if your older camper has the caulked joints, just mentioning it in case it does. This is only down the front wall to help keep water out while towing in the rain.

The very top piece of siding is seamed to the roof metal, that large piece you will leave on, as you do not want to try to take that roof seam apart. You can remove the staples from the corners and let the sheet hang away from the wood frame as you rebuild the window frame.

And yes, the metal window frame has to come out first as well.

If you don't have a building to do this inside, we have had club members use a large tarp that covers the entire front of the camper. I have done this myself in the back of the camper, on the wall, to rebuild it for a friend in their driveway. It is doable.

The links I posted earlier to some of my camper repair work are a guide. Those newer camper walls are built differently from your older camper, but once the siding is off, you use your old wood as a guide to replace it. You need to perform this repair from the outside of the camper, with the siding removed, to ensure a lasting result.

We have others who have done this as well, on your vintage camper. Here is one by Tommie. She did a good job on this. Water Damage Assessment and Repair

Another one by Yellow Jacket 1987 t1550 restoration

One by Sunline Fan, this can help with what it looks like behind the siding. He is doing a total restore on everything. This is beyond repair. New Project Sunline - 1979 12 1/2' MC

You want to get yourself in the right frame of mind to do this. It is possible, and you can do it again if you are handy with wood tools, but it will require a considerable amount of time.

We can help with what to do and where to get materials, but you are still the one doing it.

I hope this helps so you can sort out what you want to do.

John

 

[SSF156]

John,

I got the aluminum exterior back together. Well, for the most part. The corner trim is a bit bent but it's back on. Now the window won't sit flush on the exterior. I thought I got the window to sit in but it won't go right. Any tips? Any tips how to measure?

I also messed up and used self tapping screws for the corner trim into the wood. Some of them stick but some are stripped. Any tips?

 

[JohnGB]

John,

I got the aluminum exterior back together. Well, for the most part. The corner trim is a bit bent but it's back on. Now the window won't sit flush on the exterior. I thought I got the window to sit in but it won't go right. Any tips? Any tips how to measure?

I also messed up and used self tapping screws for the corner trim into the wood. Some of them stick but some are stripped. Any tips?

Hi, it sounds like you're moving right along, good.

To the window that is not sitting flush? Pictures here go a long way and show the exact problem you are seeing. I can read into too many places that are not flush, and they may not apply to what you have. Please post a few pictures, and I can suggest some possible fixes.

Yes, self-tapping screws in wood are not good. We all learn from doing. The drill point allows the wood to strip as the screws tries to drill a hole. You can use "self-piercing" as there is no drill point on the end, as they self-start into wood. A somewhat regular sheet metal screw has a self-starting point, no drill point, but it self-pierces and works in wood. But too much drill power and strip them too.

Now, what to do with the stripped holes?

Here are some options:

1. Take the stripped screw out and pump caulk into the hole. This seals the hole, preventing water from getting in. You can screw the screw back in with the caulk in the hole, it will not hold anything but does plug the hole.

To create holding power, you drill a new hole in the aluminum just above or below the plugged hole and start a fresh new hole in the wood with the proper screw. Make sure you drill in the center of the channel or the vinyl screw cover is hard to put back in

2. Sunline most times used a number 8 diameter screw. No. 8 is 0.164" or the closest fraction is 5/32" diameter over the threads. You can use the same hole, but you have to drill the clearance hole bigger to 3/16" and then use a number 10 screw which is 0.190 diameter. The bigger screw can bite into the stripped-out number 8 hole in the wood.

There are other methods of gluing wood into the stripped hole, and that method works okay when you are forced to use the same size screw and same location.

When using a drill motor to screw in screws, use one with a clutch and set it to a lower slip range, so it doesn't drive the screw in 100% home. Have the drill stop at about 85 to 90% of the way tight. A hand driver does the last 10 to 15%, which is about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. Too much power on a corded or cordless drill, and you can strip out the wood really fast, even with the correct screw point. Especially going back into a pre-made hole.

Your camper has thinner wall studs, I think 3/4" deep wall cavity, yes/no? On the newer Sunline, they went with 1 1/2" thick wall cavity using 1" long screws on the corners and the windows, doors etc. On a fresh, new hole, the amount of grip was plenty as the molding and the putty tape uses up some thread length also so you were not 1" into the wood, more like 3/4" to 7/8". On the 1 1/2" walls, when I do a restoration, I use new 1 1/2" screws. When going back into the same old hole, I get 1/2" more fresh wood bite going deeper. You may be able to achieve the same result by using a longer screw, but you must ensure it is not too long and does not poke through the inside.

When I get a stripped-out hole in the corner rail, yes, it happens even when using the correct screw sometimes. I know I have used extra new butyl tape on that molding to ensure the stripped screw is sealed. I let it in to plug the hole. Then drill a new clearance hole above or below the stripped screw and create a new, fresh hole.

The caulk I use is Dicor non-sag, nonleveling lap sealant to plug striped screws. I suggest not using silicone-based caulks. Silicone is a good product, but on a camper that flexes while going down the road, it is not a suitable application. I have had to deal with repairing campers where the owner used silicone, and it broke free on one side, not creating a lasting seal. Yes, the glob of silicone is still intact, just water leaks right around it where it lost its seal to the siding.

I hope this helps.

John

 

[SSF156]

I'll try to get you some photos tomorrow. However for the stripped holes. I was told by a tech that I can drill the holes to be ¼" and then insert the dowel and screw into that? This is for corner trim.

For the window, do the screws tie directly into the wood frame? I'm having issues getting the window to sit flush. Would butyl tape help with this? What's a good way to get the window frame in? I see it's stapled to the ⅛" board in the trailer? Any alternatives?

 

[JohnGB]

Hi,

Okay, when you get the photos of the window, also take pictures of what you're talking about, with the window not sitting flush. I sense what you are describing, and to add butyl tape, the process you are using to set the window may need some adjustments. I'm happy to explain the how-to, but I need to see what you've done.

On the corner molding and the use of dowels to deal with stripped screws. That statement is an old, well-known woodworking method for dealing with stripped screws in wood. Drill the hole to accept a larger the the screw press-fit dowel. Insert a dowel with a glue grooves on the outside with exterior wood glue on the dowel. Tap in flush, wipe off excess glue. Let the glue cure. Then pilot drill a small hole and insert a new screw cutting new threads. What I just described works well as a thread repair for items that are exposed. I'll give the tech you talked to the benefit of the doubt, as I'm not sure of the context of what was asked and how that method will practically work out with corner moldings during the insertion of the screws.

Consider this: when reinstalling corner moldings that were previously removed and the camper has been repaired, this is the process I use to create a known, leak-free corner. This is most likely above and beyond what many may do, but when doing a camper restoration, you do not want all that work to leak in a year or more. I also add a second layer of protection with caulking to cover the exposed butyl, ensuring it does not receive sun damage.

Clean off all traces of the old putty tape, returning the molding and siding to clean metal.
Install new high-quality butyl tape on the molding on both sides that touch the camper.
Add extra small strips of butyl in the valleys of the corrugated siding.
Starting at the top, peel back approximately 2 feet of release paper off the butyl. Do not take off all the release paper at once.
Using an ice pick, awl or finishing nail, align the top of the molding by one of the old screw hole in the molding and the camper. Do not yet press the molding to the camper.
Make sure the molding is in the desired position, then slide it down the ice pick, etc., and press it to compress and adhere the butyl. It is now very stuck in its location.
Start at the top and install one screw, do not fully tighten it. Stop 1/8" short.
Go about 3 to 4 holes down the molding and ice pick again to align the molding.
Install screws starting from the top with a drill clutch set to soft
Pull another 2 to 3 feet of release paper off and ice pick align and install more screws
Repeat the process until you have completed the molding.
Hand tighten each screw to make sure it is tight
Trim the excess oozing butyl with a plastic scraper.

If the temperatures are less than approximately 65°F where you are installing the molding, use a heat gun to warm the butyl before pressing it tightly. Temperatures above 70F are not a significant issue, as the butyl will flow due to the warmer temperatures.

The above is the process I use. This link will drop you into the middle of a lengthy restoration post, but it shows the corner molding in progress.
A Winter Project - Roof Repair (Picture heavy)

Here is another one, again in the middle of a long restoration post
A Winter Project - Roof Repair (Picture heavy)

I'm not sure what you have done, or if the tech understood your situation. If you started with quality butyl and 25 to 30 screws are being inserted, with 4 to 8 of them having stripped threads, then it's significant work to remove the molding with all the butyl stuck, drill out the stripped holes, and use the dowel technique to fix the holes and start over.

In the case of stripping threads when the molding is stuck on, the thread repair methods I described in the previous response works only on the screw that stripped, with the molding still on the camper.
Did you happen to strip every hole? Did you use new butyl tape?

If you accidentally stripped a majority of the holes and applied the butyl sealant correctly, I would try using a number 10 screw if you had used number 8 screws with the molding still on. If it works right, then go with that method and leave the molding in place. If the butyl is not done correctly, then it may be best to remove the molding, start over and still try the number 10 screw. It is easier to drill a 3/16" clearance hole a 1/8" depth in the molding, allowing a No. 10 screw to pass through, than to install 25 to 30 dowels that are glued in.

I hope this helps,

John