Exterior Paint
- Thread starter Meowyjo
- Start date
Hi Meowyjo,
Welcome!
Are you trying to touch up certain spots or repaint the camper?
Here are a few tips I have learned along the way.
1. The camper has to be clean, as clean as you can get it. Be picky, as any dirt, mold, or grime in the putty tape around windows, doors, corner molding, etc., will prevent the paint from adhering. If needed, ask for more on this and how to deal with the exposed putty tape at the doors, windows, etc.
2. If you are outside, try not to paint with much wind. Dirt, etc., can fly around and get into the paint.
3. Temperature: Make sure the metal is not too cold. Check the can for its temperature range. Many metal paints have a 50 degrees F lower range; the metal can be colder than the air temperature. Ideally, don't go down that low; stay up in the 55-60 F as a bottom temp or higher on the metal temp. The results will be better. Painting in the spring or a building, too cool a temperature often yields less than good results. Use a thermometer on the metal if you have one. The ambient temp 68F to 75F I have found is perfect.
4. I only use oil-based paint on metal siding or fiberglass panels. I have not had much luck with water-based paint or even rust converters on metal. Others may add what brand and temp they applied theirs at that worked for them. This also depends on how much of a show quality you want it to look.
5. On fiberglass panels, if you have cargo doors, entry doors, and rock guards off the camper, they can then be placed on a table lying flat, which helps a lot. Use very fine sandpaper in stages, 320 and final to 600 grit on the fiberglass panels. The metal trim does not need this standing. You need to get the glaze off and layers of oxidation. Then, use denatured alcohol or a lacquer thinner to clean off any last dust, etc, before painting. I have found this paint to work very well on those fiberglass panels and the metal trim of the fiberglass panel.
I used Rust-OLeum Top-Side paint, primer, and top coat on fiberglass. The white blends perfectly with the white siding Sunlines.
Marine Coatings Topside Paint Product Page
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/marine-coatings/wood-and-fiberglass-primer
I have done this on one of my project campers and a friend's camper who full times in their Sunline for over 3 years in TX & AZ with full sun, and it is still holding up very well.
You can lightly sand between the primer and top coats; use 600 or higher grit.
On these panels lying flat, I have used a superfine bristle brush; it may be a $20 brush, but the finish you get is worth it. On the top coat, I have to thin the paint slightly so it will flow out. Pour out of the quart can the amount you need, and thin that, not in the quart. Do not over-thin; just enough so that the brush bristles fade away when. Try a small spot, brush it on, and let it sit for a few minutes; if you see rough ridges from the brush, as this top coat paint will set up up quickly, then you have to thin it very slightly. Feather in the blend, the brush strokes all go in the same direction for the final brush stroke.
6. A paint sprayer system helps paint the main camper in these significant areas. The newer HVLP (high volume, low pressure) sprayers are the more modern-day sprayers. I have my old air-type spray gun, but I have not used it on a camper yet, anyway. Machery and trucks, yes.
7. Let me know if you are doing touch-ups or small areas and if you have a white Sunline. I found a white spray can that worked. The cans are in the barn, and I have to look up the name; let me know if you need it.
I hope this helps.
John
Welcome!
Are you trying to touch up certain spots or repaint the camper?
Here are a few tips I have learned along the way.
1. The camper has to be clean, as clean as you can get it. Be picky, as any dirt, mold, or grime in the putty tape around windows, doors, corner molding, etc., will prevent the paint from adhering. If needed, ask for more on this and how to deal with the exposed putty tape at the doors, windows, etc.
2. If you are outside, try not to paint with much wind. Dirt, etc., can fly around and get into the paint.
3. Temperature: Make sure the metal is not too cold. Check the can for its temperature range. Many metal paints have a 50 degrees F lower range; the metal can be colder than the air temperature. Ideally, don't go down that low; stay up in the 55-60 F as a bottom temp or higher on the metal temp. The results will be better. Painting in the spring or a building, too cool a temperature often yields less than good results. Use a thermometer on the metal if you have one. The ambient temp 68F to 75F I have found is perfect.
4. I only use oil-based paint on metal siding or fiberglass panels. I have not had much luck with water-based paint or even rust converters on metal. Others may add what brand and temp they applied theirs at that worked for them. This also depends on how much of a show quality you want it to look.
5. On fiberglass panels, if you have cargo doors, entry doors, and rock guards off the camper, they can then be placed on a table lying flat, which helps a lot. Use very fine sandpaper in stages, 320 and final to 600 grit on the fiberglass panels. The metal trim does not need this standing. You need to get the glaze off and layers of oxidation. Then, use denatured alcohol or a lacquer thinner to clean off any last dust, etc, before painting. I have found this paint to work very well on those fiberglass panels and the metal trim of the fiberglass panel.
I used Rust-OLeum Top-Side paint, primer, and top coat on fiberglass. The white blends perfectly with the white siding Sunlines.
Marine Coatings Topside Paint Product Page
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/marine-coatings/wood-and-fiberglass-primer
I have done this on one of my project campers and a friend's camper who full times in their Sunline for over 3 years in TX & AZ with full sun, and it is still holding up very well.
You can lightly sand between the primer and top coats; use 600 or higher grit.
On these panels lying flat, I have used a superfine bristle brush; it may be a $20 brush, but the finish you get is worth it. On the top coat, I have to thin the paint slightly so it will flow out. Pour out of the quart can the amount you need, and thin that, not in the quart. Do not over-thin; just enough so that the brush bristles fade away when. Try a small spot, brush it on, and let it sit for a few minutes; if you see rough ridges from the brush, as this top coat paint will set up up quickly, then you have to thin it very slightly. Feather in the blend, the brush strokes all go in the same direction for the final brush stroke.
6. A paint sprayer system helps paint the main camper in these significant areas. The newer HVLP (high volume, low pressure) sprayers are the more modern-day sprayers. I have my old air-type spray gun, but I have not used it on a camper yet, anyway. Machery and trucks, yes.
7. Let me know if you are doing touch-ups or small areas and if you have a white Sunline. I found a white spray can that worked. The cans are in the barn, and I have to look up the name; let me know if you need it.
I hope this helps.
John
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