Electric & gas line layout for T2260

[songsailor]

Hi,

We are brand new to Sunline Campers, and actually any campers at all. We just bought a 1983 Sunline T2260. It completely fits the needs of our family but also needs much TLC. At the moment we are just working on getting the plumbing, electric & gas line in order along with a little of the rotting floor/wall so that we can visit older relatives without needing to go into their homes for any reason.

My husband already asked about a toilet part that we need & have since found. Now we are trying to find the battery or where the battery should be if it has one.......& also what is shorting the GFCI in the bathroom. A power diagram would be so helpful, but I am having trouble finding one for our model. Any ideas?? Thank you & happy camping.

Jill & Miles

 

[ggrvguy]

The battery should be on the front A frame on a rack or in a plastic box. Should be a couple heavy wires going to it. As far as an electrical diagram, I don't think you'll have any luck, unless someone here has drawn one up. Your GFCI is usually connected to other outlets "downstream". Make sure nothing is plugged into any of your other outlets to start. Also , the refrigerator maybe plugged into the same circuit. I've had faulty Refrig heating elements trip a ground fault before. Or you could just have a faulty GFCI outlet. It does happen.
Gary G

 

[songsailor]

Thank so much. The A frame seemed like the likely candidate, especially as there are terminals there with nothing to attach to currently.

I replaced the GFCI yesterday and the new unit tripped as well. That is good advice on the refrigerator. I haven't had the refrigerator unplugged at any time that the camper has been attached to power. I'll give that a go this morning. There was a lot of rodent activity in the camper prior to our owning it and I'm afraid there may have been some chewing on the lines. This has happened to me in houses before. In my house I've always been able to repair and replace the damaged wires. So far in the camper I'm still having trouble finding them .

We'll let you know how the refrigerator test goes.

 

[songsailor]

Thanks so much Gary! I unplugged the refrigerator and re-attached the camper to house power and now the GFCI is content to stay un-popped. Such a huge relief that I don't have to go tearing into walls looking for chewed wires.

Now I just need to determine if the refrigerator is a repair or a replace. Given the age, probably a replace.

Thanks again. I'm glad my wife found this club.

Miles

 

[ggrvguy]

Miles, It sounds to me like the electric heating element in the fridge is at fault. They are easy to replace and check. You shouldn't have to replace the fridge unless you have other problems. Do you know if the fridge cools on gas or if it's worked recently? The heating element could be still working, just leaking enough current to ground to trip the GFCI.
Gary G

 

[mainah-SUN]

With the GFI operating plug the fridge back in and see what happens. Resistive heating tends to trip GFI's. I wouldn't blame the fridge just yet does it trip with the fridge off?

 

[Torskdoc]

Miles; THE GFCI's in the trailer may be tripping as Gary and mainah stated.



As for the Fridge;

Get the model # off the refridgerator, and take a picture of the area inside the door, pay particular attention to the wire connections on the fridge frame. POst them. There should be 12V lines coming in to the left bottom along with the 120V lines (which means the fridge won't work in GAS MODE with out a battery hooked up to power the board in gas mode.) You need a battery anyway. A 24 or 27 series Deep Cycle Marine/RV will do the job. Get the battery and 12v working, then run the fridge on Gas. It should (if working and most times do) start cooling the freezer in 2-3 hours and the chill box in about 8-10. The fridge does not have a compressor, running on a heat/cool closed cycle.

https://lifeonroute.com/rv-fridge-works/





Give it 24-36 hours to cool down completely. Temps with a manual thermostat set to max should be about 15*F in the freezer and 37-41*F in the chill box. Keep a charger maintainer on the battery while not hooked up to landline while you're working on the 120V.



Replacing the whole refrigerator is prohibitively expensive. A new coil unit is about $550-800, depending on who you get it from. A new electronics control board runs from $100-200, again depending on who/where you get one from. If you need a new control board, DINOSAUR ELECTRONICS make one of if not the best lines of control boards, and cheaper than a Dometic/norcold board. If the physical unit is intact, fairly clean in current condition, and intact, keep it.



Troubleshoot the electrical problem, ensure the fridge works on gas (once you get a new battery(and a marine box to keep it in), then troubleshoot the electrical system on the fridge. It's fairly simple.