Does the T-2363 have Ducted AC??

[apackof2]

Any T-2363 owners? Ducted AC or not? AC size?

Thanks!

 

[JohnGB]

Hi Joan,

I can confirm that the 2005 T-2363 does "not" have ducted air. That year the T-2363 had an 11,000 BTU AC unit. I did some work on one for a friend and this is how I can confirm that model.

SunlineFan may know the exact reason what drove the difference between ducted and no ducted models, but here are my thoughts.

Floor plan and camper overall length seemed to be factors into which campers have ducted air and which did not. For example:

The T-1950 being an approx. 20 1/2 ft camper and the bedroom open to the main camper floor plan did not have a ducted AC system. This also holds true for the models T-2057, T-2075, T-2199 and the T2363 which is 24ft 4in. long. The central mounted AC unit can blow air to the front and rear wall with no obstructions down the center of the camper on these floor plans.

Starting with the T-2475, the floor plan has grown in length to 25ft. 5in. long and the bedroom now has a wall with a door on it, and in this case of T-2475, a rear full camper width bath with a door. This seems to be the shift to when a "non ducted" system when at least the bedroom with a enclosed wall space, will not allow air into the bedroom without the addition of the duct work. At this length and the addition of a walled off bedroom, campers greater in length all seemed to have enclosed bedrooms and had ducted air.

Hope this helps

John

 

[apackof2]

Hi John,

Thanks! The reason I ask is that unless its ducted the AC does NOT turn off by itself when the desired temp is reached ( fan keeps running) without doing an expensive modification. I thought about doing this with my 1950 but finding the right part and then paying for someone to mod it was cost prohibitive unless you know of any recent methods??

Hi Joan,

I can confirm that the 2005 T-2363 does "not" have ducted air. That year the T-2363 had an 11,000 BTU AC unit. I did some work on one for a friend and this is how I can confirm that model.

SunlineFan may know the exact reason what drove the difference between ducted and no ducted models, but here are my thoughts.

Floor plan and camper overall length seemed to be factors into which campers have ducted air and which did not. For example:

The T-1950 being an approx. 20 1/2 ft camper and the bedroom open to the main camper floor plan did not have a ducted AC system. This also holds true for the models T-2057, T-2075, T-2199 and the T2363 which is 24ft 4in. long. The central mounted AC unit can blow air to the front and rear wall with no obstructions down the center of the camper on these floor plans.

Starting with the T-2475, the floor plan has grown in length to 25ft. 5in. long and the bedroom now has a wall with a door on it, and in this case of T-2475, a rear full camper width bath with a door. This seems to be the shift to when a "non ducted" system when at least the bedroom with a enclosed wall space, will not allow air into the bedroom without the addition of the duct work. At this length and the addition of a walled off bedroom, campers greater in length all seemed to have enclosed bedrooms and had ducted air.

Hope this helps

John

 

[mainah-SUN]

Seems a bit hard to have ducted AC when the AC is on the ceiling.

 

[j52wf]

Mine is ducted (257sr) and unit is on the ceiling. I think all the a/c units are on the ceiling, ducted or not.

 

[apackof2]

What I was interested in was the ability of the AC to shut itself off when it reach the desired level of cooling. Only ducted ACs do that and I would love to have that feature

Seems a bit hard to have ducted AC when the AC is on the ceiling.

 

[apackof2]

Wasn’t sure but thanks for confirming

Mine is ducted (257sr) and unit is on the ceiling. I think all the a/c units are on the ceiling, ducted or not.

 

[JohnGB]

Hi John,

Thanks! The reason I ask is that unless its ducted the AC does NOT turn off by itself when the desired temp is reached ( fan keeps running) without doing an expensive modification. I thought about doing this with my 1950 but finding the right part and then paying for someone to mod it was cost prohibitive unless you know of any recent methods??

I am working on what you want to do.

I have already done part of the upgrade on a T2363 to use a digital remote thermostat that is accurate within +/- 1 deg F. This also also control the furnace. In this case, my friend wanted the fan to run all the time as they need the white noise to sleep. Cycling the fan would wake them up all night long. So I only cycle the compressor with the new control upgrade but the fan runs all the time.

As part of my T1950 restoration project that has non ducted AC just like yours, I will be doing the T stat upgrade over the original capillary tube mechanical T stat. I am also going to shut the fan down on mine. But I have to work out the defrost control scheme. Since the non ducted AC units do not cycle the fan off when the room reaches temperature, the fan blowing defrosts the coils as soon as the compressor stops. We have to sort that part out when I do the new control scheme. This is all in the planning stage right now.

The Stay at Home order in Ohio (like everywhere else) due to the virus has put a damper on the T1950 progress. But I am still trying to get the camper done sometime this summer.

So there will be a upgrade coming. That said, the install is not a simple plug and play. It will need someone who is electrically friendly with 120 VAC and 12 VDC to install it.

More on this as it develops.

John

 

[JohnGB]

Seems a bit hard to have ducted AC when the AC is on the ceiling.

They actually do have a ducted AC unit in the larger Sunlines. Here are the basics of non ducted and ducted.

Non Ducted
Up on the roof sets the upper roof unit. This is the self contained unit with the compressor, fans and evaporator and condenser. The roof unit is the same for a ducted to non ducted AC system.

The difference is in the attic of the camper. There is a 14 x 14 nominal hole framed out in the roof. Generally in the central area of the camper. Inside this framed out area of the attic is what Dometic calls the "air box".

A non ducted air box has ducting totally contained in the 14 x 14 opening to take the blowing cold air from the roof unit and blow it out inside the living space out of the ends of the ceiling shroud inside the camper. There are no auxiliary ducts with this system. The air box also has an intake duct to draw in warm air from the camper living space.

Here are some pics from my T1950 with the non ducted air box.

Roof unit

Nominal 14 x 14 opening in the attic to the roof

Inside the camper looking at the air box that is up in the 14 x 14 opening. This has an air intake duct, an exhaust duct and the simple controls box to run the roof unit.

Screwed to the bottom of the air box is the inside air shroud that directs the air out both ends.

The non ducted are a simple setup and they do work. The controls are not the most repeatable for maintaining a set point though.

Ducted AC systems
The ducted systems have the same roof unit, but the air box is very different. The roof unit is still mounted on the central part of the roof.

The air box inside the 14 x 14 roof opening. The air intake, the control system and two exhaust cold air ports are part of the air box up in that 14 x 14 opening.

Here you can see the two rectangular foil covered ~ 1/4 - 3/8" wall thickness foam insulation HAVC ducts leaving the air box. One heads to the front of the camper, the other to the rear.

Here is one of the ducts heading to the front of the camper. The duct passes through the rafter trusses.

Inside the camper, their is an air intake at the ceiling line of the air box. Looks like this. The square metal box is the control box that houses a PC control board. Has relays for the fan motor, compressor and has a defrost control

A white plastic grill goes on the air box inside. There is a white grate that goes over the open hole in the pic that is the air intake grate, just I do not have a pic handy of the grate installed.

Down the front and rear of the camper ceiling are ceiling registers. Three round ones are shown in the center to left area of the pic. (3 front, 3 back of the camper) They unscrew to allow more or less air per location to help even out the air flow. These round ceiling registers tie into the HVAC duct up in the attic.

The ceiling registers can then go into closed off rooms of the camper anywhere the HVAC duct runs. In this floor plan, the bedroom in the back with a sliding door on it. And it has a pass through bath with closeable doors.

That is sort of ducted versus non ducted AC systems, Sunline style. Other brands due this very similarly. Dometic makes all the air box parts etc. The ducts and ceiling registers by other RV parts places.

Hope this helps

John

 

[apackof2]

I know we spoke of this before John and its NOT an easy mod. I am very interested in your process to achieve the mod and looking forward to your updates!!

I am working on what you want to do.

I have already done part of the upgrade on a T2363 to use a digital remote thermostat that is accurate within +/- 1 deg F. This also also control the furnace. In this case, my friend wanted the fan to run all the time as they need the white noise to sleep. Cycling the fan would wake them up all night long. So I only cycle the compressor with the new control upgrade but the fan runs all the time.

As part of my T1950 restoration project that has non ducted AC just like yours, I will be doing the T stat upgrade over the original capillary tube mechanical T stat. I am also going to shut the fan down on mine. But I have to work out the defrost control scheme. Since the non ducted AC units do not cycle the fan off when the room reaches temperature, the fan blowing defrosts the coils as soon as the compressor stops. We have to sort that part out when I do the new control scheme. This is all in the planning stage right now.

The Stay at Home order in Ohio (like everywhere else) due to the virus has put a damper on the T1950 progress. But I am still trying to get the camper done sometime this summer.

So there will be a upgrade coming. That said, the install is not a simple plug and play. It will need someone who is electrically friendly with 120 VAC and 12 VDC to install it.

More on this as it develops.

John