Considering a 1982 Sunline TT, questions/concerns...

[Camper G]

Hello!
This is my first post here! I was referred to your forum by members of RV.net. As the subject heading states, I’m considering purchasing an old 1982 Sunline TT. It’s about 19’ in length, has a front dinette with fold down bunk above, a right side bathroom/left side kitchen and a rear area with a pull out couch on the right, fold down bunk on the rear.
The current owner has had it for 14 yrs and never used it. It was stored under a carport. The first owner had it from new till 1997 or so and used it 6 times for 400 mile round trips and that’s it.
Being a Berks County, PA native, I’ve always liked Sunline since they were built just over the Berks/Lancaster, PA boarder. I have some concerns I was hoping you all could help me with.
First, I could probably get this rig for $600, but it has some issues. As follows:
1) A number of latches on the cabinet doors are broken (kind you pull towards you to unlatch).
2) The grab handle near the entrance door has a built-in light and it’s very deteriorated and ready to brake apart
3) The exterior slide out for to fill the fresh water tank is deteriorated (plastic)
4) The Rock guard in the front is in tact, but seems weak.
5) All 4 tires are flat and need replaced.
6) The metal strip on the bottom of the door is loose and the door appears to be Styrofoam filled so I don’t know how I’d secure that?
7) The water heater is bypassed so that will need to be replaced.
The Refridgerator is original, but does work per the owner.
9) Little things like the 7 way harness is deteriorated and should be replaced, will need a battery, Propane tanks, ETC.
10) Several of the marker lights are broken, so I figured a nice update would be to change them all over to LED’s?
11) The Awning is stated to be good.
12) The windows need to be sealed, I saw some signs of minor water leakage around some of the windows.
All in all, it’s pretty original and all there. I am just concerned about the availability of parts due to it’s age and Sunline being out of business now ( L ). My main concern is that lighted grab handle for the entrance door and the metal strip on the door bottom, and the door latches for the interior doors. The interior is in pretty nice shape for the age and has minimal wear. I didn’t see any major wood rot or anything, but I’d have to get the windows calked ASAP since it’s not under roof anymore.
Is parts an issue based on what I’ve described? Any suggestions? I figure $600 isn’t bad considering the above and you can’t expect much for $600 in a TT.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts, suggestions or help anyone can provide. I am capable of doing the work myself. I just don’t want to buy this rig and then not be able to get any parts for it (like the water heater, again entrance grab handle, ETC.
Thanks again!
Sincerely,
Greg

 

[Gene-SUN]

Hi Greg, welcome to the forum.

That sounds like quite a "project trailer" but since you can do the work and the price is good you could end up with a nice unit.

The water heater is probably a standard Atwood 6 gallon available from most RV suppliers and many online sources. The entrance grab handle with a built in light may not have been a Sunline item and a similar looking replacement should be available from several sources. The water fill should also be a rather standard item.

Sealing the windows would be a priority if it is not stored under cover now and there is evidence of a leak. Removing a few screws, some outside trim and then lots of screws would let you remove the windows and inspect the wood framing around the windows for rot. Butyl tape is then put around the window to seal it all up when putting it back in place.

There are several here that have done major rebuilds on older units and can give better advice than I can.

I don't think parts are a problem as most of the stuff is "off the shelf" at most dealers. Just don't say Sunline or their eyes glaze over and they start mumbling.

Gene

 

[Camper G]

Hi Greg, welcome to the forum.

That sounds like quite a "project trailer" but since you can do the work and the price is good you could end up with a nice unit.

The water heater is probably a standard Atwood 6 gallon available from most RV suppliers and many online sources. The entrance grab handle with a built in light may not have been a Sunline item and a similar looking replacement should be available from several sources. The water fill should also be a rather standard item.

Sealing the windows would be a priority if it is not stored under cover now and there is evidence of a leak. Removing a few screws, some outside trim and then lots of screws would let you remove the windows and inspect the wood framing around the windows for rot. Butyl tape is then put around the window to seal it all up when putting it back in place.

There are several here that have done major rebuilds on older units and can give better advice than I can.

I don't think parts are a problem as most of the stuff is "off the shelf" at most dealers. Just don't say Sunline or their eyes glaze over and they start mumbling.

Gene

Hi Gene,

Thanks for the advise!

Why do dealers start mumbling and their eyes glaze over at the mention of Sunline? What is there issue with them?

THanks.

ANy other suggestions would be much appreciated!

 

[Sunline Fan]

Hi Greg, and welcome,

As the subject heading states, I’m considering purchasing an old 1982 Sunline TT. It’s about 19’ in length, has a front dinette with fold down bunk above, a right side bathroom/left side kitchen and a rear area with a pull out couch on the right, fold down bunk on the rear.

It sounds like a 21' RB with the optional lounge and chair option. If you don't have the chair, don't worry, they often go missing through the years. The original chairs are pretty rare now, actually. I've seen a lot of these chair areas become storage for a spare tire, bins of stuff, etc.

1) A number of latches on the cabinet doors are broken (kind you pull towards you to unlatch).

I've heard about these latches and saw them once, but I haven't had many opportunities to get to know them. I don't know exactly what they look like, but see page 168 (second item on the left column) of this link:

http://www.coastdistribution.com/PD...rdware & Tools/G01_161-172_Hardware&Tools.pdf

Hopefully that would work as a replacement. Most RV dealers (like Stoltzfus and Shady Maple RV) will have access to order parts from the Coast catalog.

2) The grab handle near the entrance door has a built-in light and it’s very deteriorated and ready to break apart.

These have become a problem. Replacements are available, but they are just a little smaller than the original. If the original isn't broken, then you may be better off just leaving it until it does break. Keep treating it with 303 Aerospace Protectant to hopefully re-moisturize the plastic and maybe buy a couple more years out of it. I know I've seen these smaller ones at my local RV dealer, and they are usually chrome plated instead of plastic. So you may need to get some aluminum, cut it to fit the gap, paint it off white, and then re-assemble.

3) The exterior slide out for to fill the fresh water tank is deteriorated (plastic)

I know exactly the piece you're talking about. I've never physically seen one of these replacements, but see the lower left of page 281 here:

http://www.coastdistribution.com/PD...lumbing/L01_277-289_Plumbing_FreshWtrLine.pdf

I think you'll want part #27302. It may be a little different than the original, but it will be much closer than the alternatives. You probably won't find this in stock at an RV dealer, but they can probably order it for you from Coast.

4) The Rock guard in the front is in tact, but seems weak.

How so? I mean, they are a little flimsy by design. Does it have all four support bars on the inside to give it a frame? Is all of the rubber cord present that makes the fiberglass piece snug in the metal frame?

5) All 4 tires are flat and need replaced.

Yeah, if they are near or over 5 years old, it's a really good idea to replace them. Especially on the older trailers...when a tire blows, it can do some damage and hurt more than it's worth to just keep fresh tires on it.

6) The metal strip on the bottom of the door is loose and the door appears to be Styrofoam filled so I don’t know how I’d secure that?

This means the bottom of the door is rotted out. The hinge side typically has a steel channel with wood, but the top, bottom, and latch side have just a wood frame and then the entire door is filled with styrofoam. What happens is rainwater runs down the outside door skin and it goes down into the inside of the door between the little textured bubbles on the skin since the aluminum only touches the little bubbles. This should be siliconed in here, but they never did. So it rots the wood all out. It's fairly easy to repair with some handyman skills, and you should be able to save the outside skin if not both. If you get the trailer, we can go into this more later.

7) The water heater is bypassed so that will need to be replaced.

Tank split at the bottom? Probably the case, due to improper winterizing. I would go ahead and replace the entire water heater, because even though you can just get a replacement tank, I understand it's difficult to do the job and then you're still left with old hardware that may also fail. Your trailer should have come with a simple Atwood 6 gallon gas only water heater, which are very much still available today and still look/fit the same.

8 ) The Refrigerator is original, but does work per the owner.

Outstanding. These do quit working A LOT, so don't be too surprised if it quits at some point later on. I do have some suggestions that may help prolong the life a little, but we can get into that more later too.

9) Little things like the 7 way harness is deteriorated and should be replaced, will need a battery, Propane tanks, ETC.

They do add up, but it's good that you have a good grasp of this stuff now so you aren't surprised later on. If you don't want to settle for a wire-in universal 7 way plug, you can get entire molded pigtails from an RV dealer that have enough cord to wire it directly into the junction box under the trailer at the front.

10) Several of the marker lights are broken, so I figured a nice update would be to change them all over to LED’s?

You could, but you could also replace with the original style lights. They are still available last I knew, the RV dealers should have them. You will probably have to get an entire light, not just a lens, but all of your light bases are probably due for replacement anyway. Make sure to put a small bead of silicone on the tops of all of them so water doesn't seep in when you get them mounted. There's a lot of people that have discussed LED upgrades here, but I'm just too stuck on the OEM style still...

11) The Awning is stated to be good.

That's good. And if the fabric isn't so good after all, you can still use your same hardware and just get a new fabric.

12) The windows need to be sealed, I saw some signs of minor water leakage around some of the windows.

While I'm sure the putty tape around the frame/sidewall joint needs replacement, the leakage is probably more due to the actual window seals on the panes. The company that made your windows, Hehr, is still around today and should be able to help you will seals (as long as you have the window sizes). The good folks at all-rite.com can probably help you with seals if Hehr can't, plus you can pick up some other window parts there if any of them aren't working. They are a good source for the window (and entry door and storage door) plastic screw cover trim if any of yours is broken/cracked/missing.

Is parts an issue based on what I’ve described? Any suggestions? I figure $600 isn’t bad considering the above and you can’t expect much for $600 in a TT.

Hopefully I was able to make it seem a little less overwhelming. $600 isn't too bad, but given what you have to do to it, your costs will add up quickly. If you can make yourself feel better by getting it for $500 or less, I would. You didn't make it sound like it has anything somewhat new included with the deal, since you have to get new of just about everything consumable (tires, battery, LP tanks, appliances...)

Do you have any pictures of it?

Jon

 

[Camper G]

Hi Jon,

WOW, tons of great information here. In short, the camper I'm considering still has that original small chair in it, and many of the parts you gave my links to are very similar to what I have/need. I think what I am going to do is send the owner and his Dad an email and offer them $400 and outline everything I found that is wrong with it. Really for all the issues it has, I think that is fair. If they scoff at that, then they can keep it and I'll keep looking.

Thanks so much again for all the responses, I really appreciate them! PS, the entry grab handle is REAL weak, I wouldnt even trust using it AT ALL in it's present condition.

Really, considering that it's nearly 30 yrs old, with all the issues it has, they should be very happy I want to move it out of their yard for $400.

Again, many thanks, I really apprecaite your time.

Sincerely,
Greg

Hi Greg, and welcome,



It sounds like a 21' RB with the optional lounge and chair option. If you don't have the chair, don't worry, they often go missing through the years. The original chairs are pretty rare now, actually. I've seen a lot of these chair areas become storage for a spare tire, bins of stuff, etc.



I've heard about these latches and saw them once, but I haven't had many opportunities to get to know them. I don't know exactly what they look like, but see page 168 (second item on the left column) of this link:

http://www.coastdistribution.com/PD...rdware & Tools/G01_161-172_Hardware&Tools.pdf

Hopefully that would work as a replacement. Most RV dealers (like Stoltzfus and Shady Maple RV) will have access to order parts from the Coast catalog.



These have become a problem. Replacements are available, but they are just a little smaller than the original. If the original isn't broken, then you may be better off just leaving it until it does break. Keep treating it with 303 Aerospace Protectant to hopefully re-moisturize the plastic and maybe buy a couple more years out of it. I know I've seen these smaller ones at my local RV dealer, and they are usually chrome plated instead of plastic. So you may need to get some aluminum, cut it to fit the gap, paint it off white, and then re-assemble.



I know exactly the piece you're talking about. I've never physically seen one of these replacements, but see the lower left of page 281 here:

http://www.coastdistribution.com/PD...lumbing/L01_277-289_Plumbing_FreshWtrLine.pdf

I think you'll want part #27302. It may be a little different than the original, but it will be much closer than the alternatives. You probably won't find this in stock at an RV dealer, but they can probably order it for you from Coast.



How so? I mean, they are a little flimsy by design. Does it have all four support bars on the inside to give it a frame? Is all of the rubber cord present that makes the fiberglass piece snug in the metal frame?



Yeah, if they are near or over 5 years old, it's a really good idea to replace them. Especially on the older trailers...when a tire blows, it can do some damage and hurt more than it's worth to just keep fresh tires on it.



This means the bottom of the door is rotted out. The hinge side typically has a steel channel with wood, but the top, bottom, and latch side have just a wood frame and then the entire door is filled with styrofoam. What happens is rainwater runs down the outside door skin and it goes down into the inside of the door between the little textured bubbles on the skin since the aluminum only touches the little bubbles. This should be siliconed in here, but they never did. So it rots the wood all out. It's fairly easy to repair with some handyman skills, and you should be able to save the outside skin if not both. If you get the trailer, we can go into this more later.



Tank split at the bottom? Probably the case, due to improper winterizing. I would go ahead and replace the entire water heater, because even though you can just get a replacement tank, I understand it's difficult to do the job and then you're still left with old hardware that may also fail. Your trailer should have come with a simple Atwood 6 gallon gas only water heater, which are very much still available today and still look/fit the same.



Outstanding. These do quit working A LOT, so don't be too surprised if it quits at some point later on. I do have some suggestions that may help prolong the life a little, but we can get into that more later too.

They do add up, but it's good that you have a good grasp of this stuff now so you aren't surprised later on. If you don't want to settle for a wire-in universal 7 way plug, you can get entire molded pigtails from an RV dealer that have enough cord to wire it directly into the junction box under the trailer at the front.



You could, but you could also replace with the original style lights. They are still available last I knew, the RV dealers should have them. You will probably have to get an entire light, not just a lens, but all of your light bases are probably due for replacement anyway. Make sure to put a small bead of silicone on the tops of all of them so water doesn't seep in when you get them mounted. There's a lot of people that have discussed LED upgrades here, but I'm just too stuck on the OEM style still...



That's good. And if the fabric isn't so good after all, you can still use your same hardware and just get a new fabric.



While I'm sure the putty tape around the frame/sidewall joint needs replacement, the leakage is probably more due to the actual window seals on the panes. The company that made your windows, Hehr, is still around today and should be able to help you will seals (as long as you have the window sizes). The good folks at all-rite.com can probably help you with seals if Hehr can't, plus you can pick up some other window parts there if any of them aren't working. They are a good source for the window (and entry door and storage door) plastic screw cover trim if any of yours is broken/cracked/missing.



Hopefully I was able to make it seem a little less overwhelming. $600 isn't too bad, but given what you have to do to it, your costs will add up quickly. If you can make yourself feel better by getting it for $500 or less, I would. You didn't make it sound like it has anything somewhat new included with the deal, since you have to get new of just about everything consumable (tires, battery, LP tanks, appliances...)

Do you have any pictures of it?

Jon

 

[Gene-SUN]

....Why do dealers start mumbling and their eyes glaze over at the mention of Sunline? What is there issue with them?
...

The big issue is that they are out of business and dealers can't just open their "Sunline Parts" book to figure out what you may need that is already sitting on their shelves.

 

[Sunline Fan]

The big issue is that they are out of business and dealers can't just open their "Sunline Parts" book to figure out what you may need that is already sitting on their shelves.

No, they just can't call (717/800) 336-6406 so easy anymore! Oh the things I have in my memory...

 

[Sunline Fan]

Most of the similar handyman special type Sunlines I see are listed for about $500, so I agree, you are very much on target.

Hi Jon,

WOW, tons of great information here. In short, the camper I'm considering still has that original small chair in it, and many of the parts you gave my links to are very similar to what I have/need. I think what I am going to do is send the owner and his Dad an email and offer them $400 and outline everything I found that is wrong with it. Really for all the issues it has, I think that is fair. If they scoff at that, then they can keep it and I'll keep looking.

Thanks so much again for all the responses, I really appreciate them! PS, the entry grab handle is REAL weak, I wouldnt even trust using it AT ALL in it's present condition.

Really, considering that it's nearly 30 yrs old, with all the issues it has, they should be very happy I want to move it out of their yard for $400.

Again, many thanks, I really apprecaite your time.

Sincerely,
Greg

 

[Camper G]

Most of the similar handyman special type Sunlines I see are listed for about $500, so I agree, you are very much on target.

Thanks for this support and the other thoughts. I agree, I figured I'd go up to $500 if necessary and any more than that, pass on it.

As I said, I would like to buy this rig, but only if the price is right. I have a feeling the sellers think they are going to put 4 new tires on it and get 1,000 for it and I just don't see it. The knife valves for the waste tanks are also siezed so that may need to be addressed as well. A lot of little things.

I like how Sunline was very innovative in that they made a "lightweight" trailer before a "lite" even existed. Even for 1982 standards, I can tell the trailer is very light weight. The owner told me its like 2800 and change dry and I can certinly see that!

I would like to "rescue" this old Sunline, repair it and bring it back to life. I feel like it's begging me to (LOL haha) I've always liked spinning wrenches on cars, trucks, motorcycles, campers, you name it. Cleaning them up when you first get them is fun for me too.

I am wondering something though, can you walk on the roofs of these trailers? I want to go over all roof seams carefully and calk where necessary if I get it. I had a 1994 Boomer (by Skyline) as my last rig and the roof on that was all, one sheet aluminum (which i liked) but it was VERY flimsy (weak). I am right around 200 lbs and I dont want to break roof rafters or anything like that. Any suggestions in that regard specifically?

Thanks again, you all have been very welcoming and helpful.

-Greg

 

[Sunline Fan]

I am wondering something though, can you walk on the roofs of these trailers? I want to go over all roof seams carefully and calk where necessary if I get it. I had a 1994 Boomer (by Skyline) as my last rig and the roof on that was all, one sheet aluminum (which i liked) but it was VERY flimsy (weak). I am right around 200 lbs and I dont want to break roof rafters or anything like that. Any suggestions in that regard specifically

You can walk on them, but you have to put something between the rafters on top in order to do so. Many of us have a piece of plywood covered in a piece of carpet that helps prevent any damage to the roof. While those of us with rubber roofs have more to worry about, the aluminum roof on this one isn't so delicate. Still a good idea though, and it would make it easier to kneel on. That way you won't stretch the aluminum and possibly break a seam open if you were to step in between rafters. Certainly you could walk up there without plywood, but you'd have to know where all the rafters are to step on them all.

 

[Camper G]

You can walk on them, but you have to put something between the rafters on top in order to do so. Many of us have a piece of plywood covered in a piece of carpet that helps prevent any damage to the roof. While those of us with rubber roofs have more to worry about, the aluminum roof on this one isn't so delicate. Still a good idea though, and it would make it easier to kneel on. That way you won't stretch the aluminum and possibly break a seam open if you were to step in between rafters. Certainly you could walk up there without plywood, but you'd have to know where all the rafters are to step on them all.

Ok, thanks!

 

[Gene-SUN]

No, they just can't call (717/800) 336-6406 so easy anymore! Oh the things I have in my memory...

Jon, With your knowledge and recall of Sunine information and history I think you must have a large memory chip embedded in your head. :-D

 

[Camper G]

Update - I don't think this is going to happen guys. I sent the seller a long, detialed email regarding all the issues I found and what I wanted to pay for it and asking him to let me know either way and NOTHING.

I guess I should't be suprised because the JERK gave me an attitude during our first few email exchanges and didn't like it when I called him out on it. I don't understand some people, when you are trying to SELL something, especially in the condition that thing is in, you would think he would be bending over backwards to be kind to people who are considering buying it.

What a Moron.

You guys are top shelf and thanks again for all the help and thoughts.

-Greg

 

[poppyandnana]

Update - I don't think this is going to happen guys. I sent the seller a long, detialed email regarding all the issues I found and what I wanted to pay for it and asking him to let me know either way and NOTHING.

I guess I should't be suprised because the JERK gave me an attitude during our first few email exchanges and didn't like it when I called him out on it. I don't understand some people, when you are trying to SELL something, especially in the condition that thing is in, you would think he would be bending over backwards to be kind to people who are considering buying it.

What a Moron.

You guys are top shelf and thanks again for all the help and thoughts.

-Greg

Well here is hoping you find another Sunline that sparks your interest!

 

[Sunline Fan]

What a shame. Sometimes these people are easier to deal with in person than over e-mail, especially when it comes down to the final bargaining.