Hi,
We have not done a total remodel, yet anyway. However, the wife has made many mods to the two Sunline campers we have camped in. I am the wood-and-steel mod guy, more outside the camper, while the wife uses fabric, yarn, and thread.
See this older post on her camping handy work from the 2008 timeframe.
Dear Wife Mods - T2499 and T310SR- Lot's of pic's
Since then, more mods have been made. I never made a post about it, but there are pics of them, along with ones from that post, on my Flickr photo hosting site.
DW Camper Upgrades
Can you share the brand and type of paint you used on the yellow bath sink and shower? And if you can, please update us over time on how it lasts.
I have started (not yet finished) testing how to treat the plastic and then paint it so the paint will not crack and let loose over time. Especially the shower basin that flexes when you are standing on it. Restoring campers, yellow plastic is for sure there, and makes the bathroom look really bad. Having completely replaced the shower surround and basin, with a great outcome, the cost is high, and the process is tedious. So I am trying to find a long-term restoration that is lower cost (at least compared to replacement), so that I can treat the plastic and then paint it. This is still a work in progress; I have not yet mastered it, so I am always interested in what others have done and how long it lasts.
I have a shower surround removed from a 2004 T1950 camper I restored as my test piece. The surround and basin are heavily yellowed. The plastic is ABS plastic. I went to the automotive paint and treatments, as the auto industry did years ago, to learn how to get paint to stick to plastic. GM had issues with S10 Blazers' front bumpers years ago, which would peel over time. I do not know what type of plastic it was, but from my work background, getting things to stick to certain plastics can be challenging. You have to treat the plastic surface to increase its surface energy, so adhesives and paint will bond strongly to it.
I started down the adhesion promoter route. You can add it to primer or apply it directly. The brand I tried is KleanStrip Bull Dog adhesion promoter.
KleanStrip Automotive. There are tech sheets to download, and it also talks about the prep work at the end, where you spritz water on the surface. If it beads up, the surface energy is too low; you have to raise it so a water spritz sheens across. They sell the cleaner and also to clean it so it will sheen water. This quart of Bull Dog I bought, and the auto primer was costly, but not in the same league as a whole new shower surround and basin. The goal, as it was explained to me by the paint body pain guys, is to get your base coat of primer to bond correctly to the plastic, then you can paint over the bonded primer with most any automotive paint.
One of these days, I will get back to completing the testing, as I have two campers yet to restore the showers and sinks in. That said, I do have a good method that has been field-tested for the past 3 years in the sun, treating the outside fiberglass front rock guard and entrance doors that turn yellow. Fiberglass and ABS plastic are different and have different needs. If that interests you, let me know.
Thanks,
John