2001 Advancer 21A Floor Framing question..

I have yet to see if the frame is MIG or TIG welded but some parts I find are bolted. The floor panels are bolted through the panel with a large flat headed bolt in various places either under the carpet or in the storage compartments or under cabinets.

The carbon steel main camper trailer frame, odds are high it was MIG welded. All the ones I have seen have been MIG'ed. On mine, I have the wire hanging out of the weld when it stuck on the welder to prove it...

The aluminium, I do not know. I have not yet seen a Sunline aluminium wall or floor unit up close and personal to tell.

On the wood floor/structure campers, yes they used carriage bolts to bolt the floor down to the metal trailer frame. That works well on day one. After many years of rusting on the bolt heads under the camper, they get rusted up badly and the square under the crowned head just strips and spins in the wood trying to get the rusted nuts off. Granted this is not a common replacement item.... The only time they come out normally is on a rebuild. On these campers when this happens, you end up cutting the bolts off under the nut and pounding the bolt up out of the floor. 4 1/2" grinder with a cut off wheel works wonders...

Sunline was one of the better camper builders. They took the time to make them better in most cases. Granted these things are still an RV... but craftsmanship goes a long way in making them last longer. The owners need to understand the needs of an RV as well to make them last.
 
John B. said: "The owners need to understand the needs of an RV as well to make them last."
...ain't that the truth!
That is another reason I love the forums other owners experiences compliment each other and the compiled knowledge helps everyone long term!
I am agreeing that Sunline was a good builder in many ways. The rubber roof edges seem to be part of the era more than incompetence or penny pinching. I have seen enough cheapskate builds to know this isn't one of them!
Overall I am impressed. Unfortunately the P.O.'s of this trailer didn't do their homework on sealing the seams..oh well helped me get a long run bargain! For what I paid I am WAY ahead!

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Underlayment and front window are well on their way to being completed.
Thanks to a fair bit of cast off aluminum strips I have the floor reinforced and nearly sheeted. Now I have to finish repairing the front side walls so we can lay the flooring.
Still have to frame in the front knee wall under the window. I have square edge finger groove primed 1x 2 to use there as there isn't much so the premium cost was minimal for three or four 8' sticks to use for that.
Hopefully ready to pull it out of the driveway by end of week. That's my goal will see if my back and my decreasing stamina can keep up!
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Floor is pretty well done now we stopped at the bathroom door to use something different still haven't decided exactly what!
My new problem is trying to smooth a section of wall that doesn't need replacing but did delam to a point.
We have some thicker vinyl wallpaper covering but the layers are a bit too much for the variance to not be quite noticeable.
What we need is something like spackle but I am afraid it is not durable enough for this application.
Bondo might work but is a pain to use, although it may be the best idea I have had yet. Durham Rock Hard Water Putty is another alternative I suppose.
Has anyone done this and if so with what material did you have success?
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Just another shot of the flooring towards the front..it's coming along even if it is slow!
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The floor came out well. Nice! Thanks for sharing.

The wall issue, have not had to do that yet. In my case when the wall board is totally gone, I was able to special order 1/8" nominal Luan plywood to replace the whole thing then will use commercial grade vinyl wall paper over it. I just need to sort out the glue to use.

In your case, yes water proof car repair bondo will for sure work. The kind that sticks to anything just about. Getting it smooth and sanding is the bear. I have used it on car repairs years ago and it will work, just it take time to learn the skills of how to make it smooth the first time to limit the sanding.

The camper is an extreme application for home type stuff. It need to be able to go below zero in the winter, over 100F in the summer, take wiggle and flex going down the road and not fall apart with high humidity. Oh and not cost a fortune....
 
The floor came out well. Nice! Thanks for sharing.

The wall issue, have not had to do that yet. In my case when the wall board is totally gone, I was able to special order 1/8" nominal Luan plywood to replace the whole thing then will use commercial grade vinyl wall paper over it. I just need to sort out the glue to use.

In your case, yes water proof car repair bondo will for sure work. The kind that sticks to anything just about. Getting it smooth and sanding is the bear. I have used it on car repairs years ago and it will work, just it take time to learn the skills of how to make it smooth the first time to limit the sanding.

The camper is an extreme application for home type stuff. It need to be able to go below zero in the winter, over 100F in the summer, take wiggle and flex going down the road and not fall apart with high humidity. Oh and not cost a fortune....
Yeah that's the challenge for sure!
We are trying a poly spackle compound that claims water resistance and is indoor outdoor..up here that means +40C to -40C (roughly 100° to -40° F) so I am hopeful and it was pretty easy to use and smooth out.
Time will tell and I should know how well it lasts by next summer but it was easy to work with.. according to my wife who did the work on that and will be doing the wallpaper as well. We got a decent deal at Menards when we were passing through Michigan on that and got a couple late rolls so we can do more than we have prepped now...

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After replacing the entire floor with a vinyl wood look laminate we knew we didn't want the same on the bathroom floor.
Took some thought but finally came up with what is a fairly cheap and easily replaced solution.
That is checker plate look moisture proof anti-fatigue mat from which we cut a piece. Was about $20 for a 36 x 60 piece so we have enough to replace it several times over if we decide to do that!!
Bonus is it is soft warm and not too slippery on wet feet.
I think we will be happy with this and if not? Hey it's cheap and easy to replace!
Used double sided tape and will add a transition strip soon so my tricky ankles don't trip on the edge..
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That looks good!!! I see you are testing your cut and fit skills... You done good!

Thanks for sharing.

John
 

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