Sunline 13.5 to 17.5

jrsmith47 · 02-09-2010, 10:15 AM

Hi, My name is James Smith and I just saw a little Sunline 13.5 the other day. Don't no the year, but must be 1980's ( Like New ). I would like to know how I could get one up to a 17.5'. It is just right for my wife and I. (retired) and can pull with my little S-10 4/5 pickup.

A real nice site you have here.

Thanks, and God Bless.

henryj · 02-09-2010, 10:49 AM

Hi James, and welcome to the Sunline Club. I hope you can find something that meets your needs.

When you say you have an S10 4/5 are you saying 4 cyl., 5 sp.? ...or 4 door/5 passenger? It makes a big difference. For example the 2001 S10 has a tow rating ranging from 1800 lb. to 6000 lb. depending on body style and engine/tranny combination.

Henry

Honda03842 · 02-09-2010, 12:57 PM

James,

I know nothing about the S10 but we tow a 1982 Sunline 15.5 SB with our 4 cylinder Honda Civic, crossing the rockies twice as well as Labrador without a problem.

jrsmith47 · 02-09-2010, 01:21 PM

Norm,

Thanks, I's sure my little truck will pull one - my problem is where to come by one in some what good shape? You guys have grabbed up all the good ones. I had a guy try and sell me a scamp the other day till I went on line then checked it out. Nowhere like that little sunline I've looked at.

Thanks for the feed back. James

Honda03842 · 02-09-2010, 02:33 PM

James,

I rebuilt a 1977 Scamp for my son one fall. The good thing about them is they are fairly tight, the roof never leaks though you can get leaks around the windows.

Unfortunately they do not have the storage of the Sunline due to their shape and generally smaller size. I painfully added a lot of storage capacity but everything is a pain to fit because of all the curved surfaces.

When we bought our Sunline it had a few problems, a soft spot under the water heater and a soft spot near the door. I replaced the wood in the soft spots and stiffened the remainder of the floor by squirting foam into small holes drilled in the floor on a one foot pattern.

The leaks occured because of a leak at the window over the water heater and similarly over the door frame.

The other problem was the refridge stop working after we got it home. We replaced it with an inexpensive electric that is actually larger than the original in terms of capacity.

If you go to the "Other Files" section you can see some of what we've done. It's titled Preparing a 1982 Sunline....

Of course it's a 1982, the outside has numerous stone dings, the majority picked up in our Labrador trip. The decals are far from perfect, not unlike my 67 year old face, but it proves it's been around for some 28 years, not an unsignificant accomplishment. I will say our frame looks as good as most two year old trailers.

Additionally, fixing up your trailer forces you to learn a lot about it, and that is as much fun as camping, or nearly so.

Every year people just stop and ask us if we want to sell; typically retired couples who still want to travel and do it economically without the hassle of a big rig.

By the way our rig weighs 2200-2300 pounds loaded.

Good luck with your quest,

jrsmith47 · 02-09-2010, 05:03 PM

Thanks for the info. I do have a question for you or any one that can help. What do you think would be a fair price for a mid 80's T1550?

Thanks, James

jrsmith47 · 02-09-2010, 05:14 PM

To: Henryj

It's 4cyl/ 5 speed?

**Sunline Fan** · 02-09-2010, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrsmith47

What do you think would be a fair price for a mid 80's T1550?

Hi James,

I believe $500-$1200 for one in good condition. $1500 tops. Good condition means in my book as a coach with no leaks (or no visible, past leaks) and that hasn't been weirdly modified. Also, the exterior should show signs of age and while the decals are probably somewhat faded, the aluminum should not have much if any damage. Dents larger than a quarter aren't good. Stone dents on the front lower section are inevitable, but the less the better. Some that covered a lot of dirt roads will have many dings here. There should also be no holes cut in exterior siding or repairs to such events.

Should a consumable item need replacement, such as tires or propane/tanks, or a battery, consider toward the middle of that range or a little below unless the coach is in almost showroom condition otherwise.

All in all though, spend what you are comfortable with. $2500 this day in age would be OK for a mint trailer with newer tires, good LP tanks, etc., and ready to hit the road camping. Not many fit in this category though.

Jon

Honda03842 · 02-09-2010, 07:25 PM

James,

I paid $900 for mine though I was prepared to spend $2000 for a 16 footer recently. Condition determines a lot.

I think the previous email gives an appropriate range.

I would say I've spent $2000 over the last 3 years to make it whole - tires, converter, refridgerator, satellite dish, 600 stainless screws, ..... Much of what I did was not necessary to make it into a camper but just to make it better for the two of us. My experience is that if you're patient you'll find what you want.

I found mine on Craigs List.

jrsmith47 · 02-10-2010, 07:12 AM

Thanks, Guys - You have been very helpful. My wife an I just sold our big C-class motor home because of gas and to hard to get around. A 16 footer is just the thing for us, and I have the time to work on one.

I love this site! Everyone has been so helpful.

God Bless! James

Honda03842 · 02-10-2010, 12:24 PM

James,

With cost being a concern, we average about 20 MPG towing our Sunline. If we could import a Honda CRV diesel, hoping they come to America soon, we could be pushing 30 MPG.

As well on our trip to Labrador our rather short length compared to our motorhome/car combo we saved quite a bit on ferry charges.

Ted-Thompson · 02-10-2010, 09:56 PM

I am looking forward to seeing how things work out for me.

A 17.5' Sunline and an S10 (4.3L V6 + 5 Speed Manual) - I think I'll be fine (Though I'd hesitate if I had an Automatic and/or a 4 cyl.)

henryj · 02-11-2010, 09:36 AM

Actually, in the lighter trucks, the automatic is always rated for much higher weights. Those trucks don't have a granny low and I think the factory is cautious about the clutch. There's no question the chassis can handle more weight as there is nothing inherently different in construction of a manual or auto model.

I have the 2001 GM trailer brochure. The 4.3L/5sp is rated from 3800 lb. to 4400 lb. depending on model and axle ratio. The auto is 4900 to 6000 lb. So the difference is huge.

Similarly the 2.2L/5sp is 1700 to 2200 lb. and the 2.2L/auto is 3000 to 3200 lb.

Henry

264SRinPA · 02-11-2010, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by henryj

Actually, in the lighter trucks, the automatic is always rated for much higher weights. Those trucks don't have a granny low and I think the factory is cautious about the clutch. There's no question the chassis can handle more weight as there is nothing inherently different in construction of a manual or auto model.

I have the 2001 GM trailer brochure. The 4.3L/5sp is rated from 3800 lb. to 4400 lb. depending on model and axle ratio. The auto is 4900 to 6000 lb. So the difference is huge.

Similarly the 2.2L/5sp is 1700 to 2200 lb. and the 2.2L/auto is 3000 to 3200 lb.

Henry

That's true. We have a Ford Explorer 4.0L/ 5sp auto rated to tow 5000lbs and we had a Ford Ranger 4.0L/ 5sp manual rated to tow 3100lbs. Our mechanic said the biggest difference is the clutch isn't heavy enough to handle more weight.