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Old 09-18-2017, 09:24 PM   #21
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Hi Bob,

Wow, that Ford looks great!!! And the Sunline too!!

As long as the inside is in great shape, it makes the water damage repair a whole lot easier. Amazing what vinyl wall covered wall board and vinyl pelting can do to stop water from getting inside.

On the roof, the before pic's look, unfortunately, predicable of the prior owner not knowing they needed to clean and service the roof often. 4 times a year if it lives outside.

We just finished up this past Sunday helping a friend with her new to her 2005 Sunline T-264SR slide room camper repairing water damage. It had the same issue, the prior owner did not know how to care for the roof and the inside was dry and clear. But the damage was done a few years before. Had to take the entire back wall off, part of the left side and part of the right side to get all the wet wood and ants out of it. The front corner leak was not that bad. It will take me some time to get all the pics of this bud board repair up for viewing but I can do a few as needed.

Now to the roof cleaning, when you said pressure wash the roof, oh boy... But, it's done now so onto next steps.

You are talking about a coating already, not trying to talk you out of it but want to ask what the roof looks like first and about the timing of this if when you are going to repair the back wall. This camper we just did, it took me 4 full hours of cleaning on the roof to bring it back into where it needed to be. I was beat.... and then did 3.5 more hours cleaning the sides...

Here are some pics of the process.

There are pics before the repair started, during the repair, the start of the wash process and then the final finished roof. Note before we started the wash, there where clean areas where we had to chemical clean\ to put the new butyl tape and Eternabond repairs down.

I do not have my new web server up and going yet since we can no longer use Photobucket.com but here are some up on the SOC forum server.

The front leak before starting the repair.


The rear right corner before the repair.


The front during repair but before main roof wash


The rear during the repair before the main roof wash


Close up on the roof before wash. Yuk


The front at the start of the first dirt wash. I had to do 2 dirt washes...


The rear after the 1st dirt wash


The rear after the 2nd bleach treatment


Inside the barn after washing but before final repair and caulking


The rear after final caulking and 303 UV protectent.


The front after final caulking and 303 UV protectent.


I was shocked I could bring it back this good. The first wash was tough. Man pushing the brush was like shoveling into a pile of crushed stone... the car brush would barely move....

Point being, before you coat the roof, need to make sure there are no other water infection areas, (moisture meter check) and you have to kill the mold. Really do not want to apply a new coating over the mold as it will get trapped in there.

Yes open up a new thread in the repairs and maintenance forum and lets talk. You will have your new camper all fixed up and it will last a good long time. You can repair everything in these campers the way they are built. Not so easy on the new style camper being built today.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 09-19-2017, 10:54 PM   #22
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John, what did you use to clean the roof and get it that white? I just washed the one on my '97 last week, using a Dawn/water/little bit of bleach mixture and the results weren't nearly that nice. Granted it has the typical midwest black spot disease, but the white parts still don't look that white.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 09-20-2017, 07:13 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan View Post
John, what did you use to clean the roof and get it that white? I just washed the one on my '97 last week, using a Dawn/water/little bit of bleach mixture and the results weren't nearly that nice. Granted it has the typical midwest black spot disease, but the white parts still don't look that white.
This was a 4 part wash to get to the bottom of the yuk that had not been touched in a long time. May have been 2005 even...

Step 1. Wash the roof with Tide and rinse. This was a very hard wash, the long pole car brush had a hard time pushing through the grim.

Step 2. Wash with LA's Totally Awesome. Wet roof, use full strength in a squirt bottle, rinse. While the car brush slid easier after the tide wash, the roof still had a lot of black/gray all over it. The dirt though was gone.

Step 3. Bleach solution first pass. This was 2 gallons of water and about 1/2 cup of older (1 year old bleach). This started to take out the mold. Used car brush again to spread the bleach solution. Needed 10 minutes to sit and let it soak. I had a good cloudy day so it was not drying fast. After the 10 minutes I scrubbed a little more. This really did not touch a lot. The bleach being old was weak. I spiked it with 1/2 cup of fresh and went over it. Now it started to cut the mold. Rinsed well when done.

Step 4. Bleach solution second pass. This was 2 to 2.5 gallons of water with 1/2 cup fresh new bleach. Used the car brush again. Spread it on, let is sit for 10 minutes and then rinse or bleach water scrub locations that needed it. Do in sections as 10 minutes is not enough to do the whole roof. Rinse well. This second pass did the trick and you could see it cutting the mold.

I do the bleaching separate from the soap. On these really bad mold build up's it takes time (at least 10 minutes to work) . Learning from this, use only fresh bleach. If the build up is bad, need to 2 bleach solution applications. Keep it wet, do not allow the bleach solution to dry. Rinse well when done.

I used 303 Aerospace UV protectent over everything on the roof when I was done. Including all Dicor caulk, plastic anything, the rubber and any Eternabond used. This I found this to be key to a lasting roof, UV protection. I will do a post on this in the near future. I now have aged samples of using 303 and non 303 over 13 years and the results are astonishing. I never knew just how good it really is until the past 2 years dealing with camper roofs that had no care to them.

Thanks

John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

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Old 09-20-2017, 10:28 PM   #24
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Great info to bookmark!!
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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