help please to repair this damage in picture

[kenkim10]

Hey John to be more specific lights at the slide out work, also at the sink cabinets, however none in the bedroom, bathroom or dining table area works, have ceiling board out, checked fuses, trying to trace wires, the power comes from the main panel in the kitchen area correct ?

[JohnB]

Hi Ken,

H'mm, something seems unhooked, a hot wire or the ground.

Here is the 2007 T257SR locator sheet. If you have the 3 ring binder manual, a copy should be in there. If not we have it here in the FILES sub section under Manuals. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/d...o=file&id=5602

Item 10 on that locator sheet is the power converter which looks like it is under the stove. All 12 volt power for lighting or other 12 volt items inside the camper originate/are distributed from that 12 VDC fuse panel other then high power to run the slide drive motor to move the slide in and out. That heavy slide DC power to run the motor comes out of the DC junction box on the frame header behind the battery.

So yes, the lighting power starts on one of the fused lighting DC circuits in the power converter. Check with a meter if every black wire leaving the fuse panel has 12 volt hot coming out of it. The issue may also be a white DC ground (-12 DC) wire is loose even if you have the 12 volt hot wire.

I'm not totally sure on yours, but all the other newer Sunline has an aluminum large terminal DC buss bar "behind" the power converter to connect all the 12 volt DC common's (gnd, -12 VDC). If something is loose or messed up on the 12 volt common buss bar, then it can shut down a large area.

Also, do not confuse the 120 VAC AC neutral buss bar with white solid romex wires on it with the 12 VDC common white stranded wire buss bar. Those two buss bars should never cross. While the DC common buss bar is connected to chassis gnd and earth ground, the 120 VAC neutral is "not" common to earth ground in the camper on purpose. Sunline uses Romex sold wire cable for 120 VAC and stranded single wires for 12 VDC.

See this pic, the 12 VDC aluminum bus bar is behind the power converter with a bunch of single stranded white wire hanging out of it. It's buried in the back. This is a 2007 T286SR, but yours should look similar.


You can see here, the 120 VAC neutral buss bar is on top and the earth ground buss bar on the left out in the breaker area.


This power converter went bad and they replace the power converter PC board and left the breakers and the DC fuses. That is why yours will look a little different in the power converter board area on the bottom.

Good hunting, let us know how you make out or more questions, ask away.

John

[kenkim10]

Good Evening John, i opened up my ceiling and found that, critters had previously chewed away the ducting for the roof AC , where can I get a replacement

[kenkim10]

looking for the ducting for my camper

[JohnB]

Hi Ken,


I have an AC duct out of a 2004 Sunline out in the barn I can look at closer tomorrow to refresh my memory better. I have made repairs to the attic AC ducts before, mainly with the thicker aluminum HVAC tape, but I have not bought all new duct, yet anyway.

How big of a piece do you need? There are some ways to create a sound patch using thin duct board, but it all depends on what yours looks like if it will fit in the space you have to work with. Some times the rectangular duct is routed in the more center area of the roof, so the rafters are taller allowing the duct to fit better through them.

Any pics of the area you are trying to repair?

For those following along in case you have seen this foam board ducting before what they call it, here is what it looks like. This is out of a 2007 T286SR but the 2004 campers use the same ductwork and many other years as well that have ducted AC.

The ceiling registers, they just stick up into the rectangular attic duct work


The AC air box in the ceiling


The air box grill off


The attic side with the roof off looking at the air box and the ducts caulked into the air box




The duct as it passes through the rafters


It just fits through the rafter


I tired to search for the actual duct, so far I am coming up not finding it, or more like, not calling it the correct thing to find in a search.

Tomorrow I look at the duct I have in the barn out of the camper and maybe it has a brand label it to give us some more to go on.

Hope this helps

John

[kenkim10]

I pulled it all out because it was chewed up at different places, i am experimenting with fabricating one out of sheet aluminum

[JohnB]

Hi Ken,

Not sure how far you made it with the aluminum sheet. I'm not sure the aluminum sheet is the right way to go thinking outload. I'm not saying don't, but consider this. Here is my thinking based on what I know about the attic space in these campers.

In a house, metal ducting for HVAC is very common. It is in the basement and in the insulated walls. In a camper, AC ducting does not use metal ducting, I believe it is for these reasons possible. First is weight, but I think weight is a small thing, the higher cost of material may be a driver, but there is what I think is a bigger reason, see below.

The attic of the "normal" summer season campers is not vented. The sun heats the roof and even with the white reflective roof, that attic can get a good 20 plus degrees hotter then the outside temperature as it is all closed up with no venting. Sort of like your car in the parking lot on a hot summer day, it cooks inside that car. The entire camper cooks also if left all closed up in storage. I know some of this from adding attic vents to Sunline campers that greatly helped the camper stay cooler by just venting that trapped heat attic space. See here for more on the attic vents, consider these on your restore. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...-do-19983.html

I started going after attic vents to deal with trapped moisture and the effects of it fall/spring and winter when the heat runs in the camper and where all that moisture goes. A side benefit was the cooler temps in the camper in the summer.

Point in this, my thoughts are the metal ducting in the attic will soak up a lot of heat before the AC is turned on. The AC efficiency may drop big time at startup trying to cool the camper as the heated ducts create a new heat load to overcome before the cold air makes it into the living space.

And once the metal duct high heat starts getting tamed down, convection starts with the cold air going into attic space also starts, loosing some more level of efficiency into the living space.

The RV duct may only have an R value of 1 due the approx. 1/4" thickness, but at least it is a lot less conductive of heat and cold then the metal. They seem to use the silver lining on the outside of the RV duct to possibly reflect the high heat of the attic, while the inside of the duct is plan foam board.

I was looking for something to make ducts out of, I found these 2 options, the first thought was using house 1/4" siding backer board, like this Owens Corning product at HD. But you have to buy 50ft of it at a high cost for what we are trying to make. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...21UM/100320301

But I found this which has more hope, but I cannot find how thick it is, Thremopan https://thermopan.com/collections/th...19575343874144

If that Thermopan can withstand not flexing down on a 16" on center floor joist, then it may be stiff enough for the smaller RV duct. And they sell it here at an lot better cost, at SupplyHouse.com. I
never bought from them, just found them on a web hit. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Thermopa...-Panning-Sheet

If that is thick enough, it could work for making ducts and using the thick aluminum tape in the corners. Thermopan also make tapes for that duct board. You might be able to fold it at a 90 degree corner, have to play with it so there is less taping. We are sort of boxed into the outside dimensions to fit in the roof trusses. The lumber yards sell 1/2" duct board in 4 x 8 sheets, but that restricts the ID for air flow. Ideally 1/4" or closer to it, if we can find it, may work better.

Hope this helps

John

[kenkim10]

Good Evening JohnB,
It has been a while since I have been to the Forum, we have been working on our 2007 Sunline T257SR trailer Camper for some time now, but not continuously due to the cold weather we have been having, we temporarily sealed up the roof, and have fixed the wiring for the lights and replaced the duct work which were damaged by squirrels and have replaced the panel boards for the ceiling, we are now working on replacing all the flooring, which was very compromised by water seepage due to roof damage. i have to replace the Water Heater and repair the Furnace which is not operating, would appreciate any help available, is there a manual with schematics available.

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by kenkim10

i have to replace the Water Heater and repair the Furnace which is not operating, would appreciate any help available, is there a manual with schematics available.

Hi Ken,

Sounds like you have been busy and making progress.

To your 2 areas in question,

1. The water heater, you mentioned "replace" the heater, do you know what is wrong with it or what it is not doing? It may be able to be repaired. Parts for the original in your campers are still available, but they have discontinued making them as complete units. It may be cheaper to repair than the new replacement pending what is wrong.

This post can help show you some of the heater apart being serviced. It is really not a trouble shooting post, we have them too once we know what is not working out yours. But, the pics may be helpful. If you let us know what you are up against, we can help better. This link will drop you in the middle of a long post, but is of servicing the water heater. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post154839

If you feel you want a totally new one, this post shows the next generation Dometic water heater that will fit in the same size opening and what needs to be reworked. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...avy-20522.html

2. Now to the furnace. Parts are still available for your furnace. What does not seem to work on the furnace? Does the blower run at least? We can help, we have done this many times with other members. This link is further in the restoration thread with the water heater above. It was when I serviced the furnace. Again it is not a trouble shooting thread, but the pic's may help. Scroll a little and the furnace pics will show up. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post154909


For schematics and part numbers, see this Atwood service manual. It has both the water heater and the furnace. It is stored in our files section. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/d...do=file&id=461

You have to know the exact model number of each appliance when looking in that manual. The manual has all models. If the tags are worn off, like on the water heater, take a pic of the outside and post, we can back into the model. The furnace has a tag outside behind the grill cover on the blower housing.

Some of the Atwood parts have been superseded with newer part numbers. The parts numbers listed in the service manual may come up discontinued, but there are replacements for most. We can help on the parts hunt if and when the time comes.

Hope this helps.

John

[kenkim10]

Hello John B, I haven't contacted you in a while, however I Have accomplished quite a lot in between my job, working on my house and working on the camper, and of course winter. Updates, the ceiling is completely redone, flooring replaced, cabinets repainted, installed new water heater, have to complete repairing the outside damage at the back which was temporarily repaired before winter came. i will send some updated Photos