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Old 09-25-2022, 07:18 AM   #1
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help please to repair this damage in picture

IMG_4467.jpg
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Old 09-25-2022, 09:37 AM   #2
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Hi kenkim10,

Welcome!

Bummer on your camper damage. However, that is all very repairable if you have common wood tools, along with some knowledge on using them, a place to do the work, inside or outside, time to do the work, and a good solid step ladder ideally to get to the area.

We have many pictures on how the camper is built and how to take it apart to then fix it we can share.

But, we need some more info to better help tell you how far you need to take the camper apart for the repair.

Can you post pics looking down from the roof on the damaged area?

And pics of the back wall showing the damage?

Closer pics of the rear left wall damage?

The more pics we have, the better we can see and help better.

Is there any inside damage, ceiling or wall board, and if so pics of that as well. The one pics shows the damage may go below the ceiling line inside. Have a look in the cabinets above the kitchen sink/stove area.

From the one pic, you camper looks like a 2007 T257SR. Is that correct?

Hope this helps,

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Old 09-26-2022, 06:22 AM   #3
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Wow John your expertise is both reassuring and impressive. You are correct about
the model type. We just bought and towed it home last night. I will take some more pictures and post those later today.
Thx and talk soon.
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Old 09-28-2022, 05:49 PM   #4
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help for T257Sr Camper

Was not able to get over to Camper today, will get more photos soon, also need an air vent cover
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Old 09-28-2022, 06:25 PM   #5
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Hi kenkim,

The one pic you just posted tonight shows a lot going on with your roof. When you get to taking pic's, take some of the entire roof.

Areas of particular interest,

The front roof seam from the rubber to the siding.

The rear roof seam from the rubber to the back wall.

The gutter rails along the side of the camper.

The bathroom shower dome

Overall pics of the rear, mid section and front section of the roof.

If you have not covered the camper with a tarp of sorts, please do. The roof vent, the AC missing and the left rear wall/roof damage are big holes for water to get in.

It appears someone along the way attempted a roof coating that has failed. I can also see what looks like waviness across the rafters. I do not want to jump to conclusions until we see more to better help you.

That said, anything on that roof can be repaired. We have pics and posts to show how to do this. Once you get a better handle on the work need, you can create a get well plan.

Thanks

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Old 09-28-2022, 06:34 PM   #6
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Thanks John i will post more pics Tomorrow
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Old 09-29-2022, 11:48 AM   #7
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Talking

I did a little temp patching on Sunday as you can see, there are holes in the areas with the roofing tape, I will temp close up the large hole today.
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Old 09-29-2022, 08:24 PM   #8
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Hi kenkim,

I took your pics and zoomed in on them. I'll post some comments on what I see in this reply, and then in the separate reply more on how to address the damage if you want to repair it. It might be a day or so for the next reply on how to go about fixing all this pending time available tonight.

Consider what I'm going to say, as what I can see from the limited pics and not seeing this up close. The damage may be more or less pending further investigation.

The front shot. This pic shows big picture, not a lot of detail. The actual front seam between the roof and the front wall siding, looking close at it can help better. Also, take a pic of the series of screws at the very bottom of the front wall down by the A frame/battery area. Looking if those 1/4" head head screws have any rust on them.




I see the tape on the roof, are these actual holes in the roof that were patched, or rips in the rubber?

There are some "feel" tests you can do to tell as a gross water infected roof structure check. Feel the rubber surface, the Sunline roof of your camper has a approx. 1/16" thick very tough backerboard made from a corrugate fiber. On a good section of the roof, if you press on it, it will flex, but it will feel stiff to a point. If it feels like soft, and more so, like a rubber tire tube, rubber band feel when pressing down and it bounces back up, the rubber band feels indicates the backer board has water decay damage.

This is how the roof system is made. There are truss type rafters in the ceiling, Over the top of the rafters, a EPDM rubber membrane that is glued to the fiberboard Sunline nicknamed "budboard" which was pre-bonded on the ground, is pulled over the rafters. The budboard created water shed support to the thin 40 mil (0.040") thick rubber membrane. This budboard is "not" strong enough to support a persons weight, but strong enough to shed water off the roof when it is "not" water infected.

Here are 2 pics showing the budboard system. These pics were taken during a camper restoration project. These pics are from a long side wall.




When a leak happens, water wicks into the budboard and starts deteriorating it. How bad the deterioration is, depends on age of the leak and the size of the leak. When the bud board is about 50% plus compromised, it starts getting this soft rubber band feel to it. The rubber is still intact, but the budboard rots out behind it. Here is one corner with about 25% damage. This shows the water infection, but it was early enough it did not yet feel the rubber band feeling.


Feel around all the seams, front and sides and any opening in the roof for this rubber band feel. Heads up, if you find it, you do not know how rotted the rafters might be when you find it.

This pic shows 75% or greater damage. This area the budboard is damaged beyond use. This area needs a local spot repair or a re-roof. It all depends on how good or bad the rest of the roof is.


This corner was real bad, but the damage was localized to this area, so a local spot repair could be done.




Here is check you can do on the screws that are at the bottom of the front wall siding, take each screw out and look at it. They rust from the inside out. Take note which screw is in what hole. You can put the screw back in when you are done to fill up the hole. The rusted screw threads mean there is water in that front wall. Pristine silver threads means that area is dry.


This front wall damage can come from the roof, the front corner moldings or the front cargo door frames.

I also see you are using plywood on the roof, if that is there for walking on, good for you. You can put a tarp or something under the wood to help with abrasion on the rubber. Using small sheets of plywood 3/8" or thicker that are manageable in size to get up on the roof is how your service the roof. The wood needs to be wide enough to span the rafters. I use 2' x 4" or 2 1/2' x 4 ft pieces. Big enough to do the job, yet light enough to hual up the ladder.

Here you can see the attic with the budboard and insulation off. You can see the smaller sheets of wood I use. Again, if you have a rotted rafter, use a big sheet to get over over the bad rafter, or better, work from the side.


More in the next reply
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Old 09-29-2022, 08:54 PM   #9
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Hey John, yes the taped area is the temp repair I did, and the large piece of ply is to lay o, parts of the roof especially where the holes are is indeed like a tire tube.
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Old 09-29-2022, 09:02 PM   #10
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This pic shows a lot going on with the roof. The black triangle jagged shapes, what looks like tears on the left of the pic, are they holes in the roof rubber?



I can see the prior owner attempted a roof coating. They did not prep the roof correctly as a starter, there is way too much mold to coat over. And I'm not sure what coating they where trying to use. The bond is not good as you can see it is peeling up.

I also see a good deal of waviness looking towards the rear wall. That waviness is an indicator the budboard has a level of water infection to it most likely. The back 6 to 8 ft of length of the camper roof could have issues. Carefully if you can, try the rubber band feel test. Maybe do it from the sides on a good solid step ladder.

There appears to be a tear in the roof next to the 14 x 14 roof vent in the kitchen area. Is that a rip through the rubber? Or just the coating lifting up?

The back wall,


In case you did not know, the roof vent over the fridge is missing the cover. For sure wrap it up in plastic or get a cover on it. Rain water going down that vent can create great havoc for the fridge and the camper wood inside. This Camco cover will fit that roof base. It comes with the screws also. Just not the caulk to go over the screws. For now, you can use a patch of gorilla tape over the screw heads until you sort out what the total plan is.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Trailer...Y22/ref=sr_1_1

It is hard to tell from this one pic, but the rear roof molding looks to be lifting up over by the fridge vent on the rear right corner. You can tell by the gray butyl tape exposed that is "may be" lifted.

See these 2 pics. These are worse then yours, but it shows the issue I'm talking to.


Here is another camper that looks more like yours. Have a closer look and pop a pic if needed of yours.


What you are seeing is, the rear wall rafter has rotted from water damage. The screws in the molding between the roof and the rear wall are not holding in the rotted rafter, and the molding starts to lift up as it is under stress from the arched roof exposing the gray putty tape. That molding will go a lot straighter when it is off the camper. The screws hold to the arched shape of the rear wall when the rafter is solid and the screws hold.

And then this real bad area.


And the inside in that area


I can tell by the inside ceiling and rear wall board deterioration, the left rear corner had a roof leak for a long time. I will estimate 4 to 6 years or more. The prior owner may have had no idea the leak was going on until it got real bad and started smelling or seeing it inside. This also adds more evidence to the rear section of the roof has a lot of budboard damage and very possibly rafter damage.

The big dent in the left rear corner, something fell on the camper, or someone backed into something. It happens.

That is what I can see from what you posted so far. As I started saying in my first response, all of this is repairable.

A question I will leave you with, what are your intentions for this camper?

I will say this, I have restored Sunline campers as bad, and worse then what yours show. And these Sunlines once restored, and sealed up better then new, are still light years better then many new campers being sold today. To the right person, restoring one leaves them with a great camper.

If the inside is still in fairly decent shape, you really like the layout, with time, a good deal of time, and the wood working skills I talked about before, this camper can be brought back to great condition to last many years longer then it did the first time. As you will have learned all about this camper, understand what to look for, and what to be on top of all the time to prevent what happened to this one. It will however take time, some funds for materials and the want to do this.

Let me know your answer to your intentions for the camper and I can help better with some what is involved with repairing it.

Hope this helps,

John
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Old 09-29-2022, 09:40 PM   #11
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Hey John, I am all about restoration, we bought a camper for 2 reasons, because we wanted to get some experience with a RV Trailer living, travelling in one also because we are going to be selling our present home to relocate to another state within 2yrs - 3yrs, we intend to move into the camper for about 6 mths, so we can sell the house before we relocate, after that we may sell this one to get some thing new and bigger.
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Old 09-30-2022, 07:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenkim10 View Post
Hey John, I am all about restoration, we bought a camper for 2 reasons, because we wanted to get some experience with a RV Trailer living, travelling in one also because we are going to be selling our present home to relocate to another state within 2yrs - 3yrs, we intend to move into the camper for about 6 mths, so we can sell the house before we relocate, after that we may sell this one to get some thing new and bigger.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenkim10 View Post
Hey John, yes the taped area is the temp repair I did, and the large piece of ply is to lay o, parts of the roof especially where the holes are is indeed like a tire tube.
Hi kenkim,

Thanks for the feedback and that you want to consider restoration. Since you were using that plywood sheet to patch holes that had the tire tube feel, I'm going to make a few assumptions on the over all condition of your camper. As you work through this you will learn more and get a better feel for how far you want to take the restoration.

When I do a camper restoration, I chase the water damage to the very end and create a plan for each area on how to restore it so the camper will be totally sound when done. In my case, this goal is obtainable partly due to my workshop that allows me time to do this, as long as it takes. I started out using the big tarp on my early water damage repairs, then in time the new barn came. And we have others here on the forum who have done a mix of the big tarp and taking over the garage as the work progresses. Everyone cannot obtain total restoration for a variety of reasons, and all are OK. We can try and help you go as far as you want to go, and with what you have to work with.

By seeing what you have shown us and having enough of these Sunlines apart, I'm going to make a big picture statement about what your repair "might" turn into. Also you need to create a plan, on what comes apart first and how far apart, especially if you do not have a building to do this inside. What I am going to show, I hope will allow you to start thinking through your plan.

Also, when I do restoration work, another goal is to try and keep the inside of the camper as "undisturbed" as possible. You create less work and damage to have to rebuild. These campers are built from the inside out in modular sections, totally different then a house that is built from the outside in. Point being, before tearing the inside wall board and ceiling of the camper apart to get to the rotted wood, understand how the camper is built first and then what is your plan for a total fix.

Here is a post on how we try and save the wall and ceiling board as much as possible by starting the repair from the outside.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post155103

Your rear wall has a good amount of water damage, not sure yet if the floor under the kitchen area has damage, you will find that out by further inspection and when the rear wall comes apart. I suggest the rear wall come apart by taking the siding off and starting the repair from the outside. You will be able to access how bad the wall board is and then sort out if a resin treatment can be done or you need sections or the whole rear wall replaced. Since you have a rear kitchen, there is a lot of items mounted on the back wall, the more you can leave in place, the less work to do the total repair. For sure, you will need some level of new wall and ceiling board in the top right rear cabinet where the big hole is in. But that new wall board may be limited to inside the cabinet. Or at least start out that way. You can always tear the whole thing apart...

The roof has some major issues. Again at this point potentially half of the roof membrane will need to be lifted to deal with the water damage. By checking the screws at the bottom of the front wall, you can tell quick if the front wall siding needs to come off. Odds are favorable it will need to. Taking siding off is not hard once understood. Now is where the plan starts, do you to take the whole budboard membrane off at once, or in parts?

If you have a building to do this in, the fastest way to repair is to roll off the whole budboard membrane off the roof and then take the rear and front siding off, assuming you need a total new roof. Then you can sort out if the long walls need some or all the siding off. But, if you do not have that inside building luxury, then doing this outdoors in sections make more sense. You can roll up part of the roof, do rafter ceiling repair etc., roll the roof rubber back over, tarp over the camper and can come back next weekend and start over. Then at the last moment, remove the entire membrane when you are ready to start putting a new membrane down or a partial new membrane. Using a tarp on a roof over rafters is a problem, water ponds between the rafters as the tarp sinks to the ceiling board and that is a leak waiting to happen. You need something support the tarp at the rafter level to shed the water. Rolling the membrane back, shooting a few screws in it to hold it, can support the tarp or drop sheets of plywood under the trap also works. This will take some thought on how to do this with what you have to work with.

This post is a total roof replace, a full walk on roof install, with a repair to the front and rear wall, and a side wall. This will give you the big picture of what to expect. While this is a larger slide camper, yours is built very similar other then the bottom of the rear wall. You may elect to save some cargo capacity and only install 1/4" plywood in place of 3/8". A decision that can come later and it you are doing the whole roof or only part of it with a new membrane.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...avy-16834.html

Your back wall and floor will look like this what is shown in this camper repair. This is a full camper restore which had major water damage in the back and floor damage. Your back wall, floor and ceiling is built just like this. While I never finished that post, yet anyway, I did finish the camper and have all the rest of the pics.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...avy-17684.html

Your front wall, if you need to rebuild the front wall, this post may help. This post sort of stops part way through, but it does show some good things on doing repairs. The front of that camper is complete and in my barn, so I have pics of the rest of it. It is still needing a roof and rear all redo.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...2-a-18706.html

I have more posts, and gigs of lots of pics of other campers apart and being repaired willing to share. And we have other members with theirs apart too and their repairs we can dig up if you have not found them yet.

I will also mention, consider getting a moisture meter. You can scan the inside of the camper, the black plastic bottom membrane, the floor, the ceiling and roof the of camper to tell if there is water damage behind those areas before ever taking them apart. You will use this if you have it. This post talks to the meter I use. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...per-17613.html

This is link to a PDF here in the files section on understanding the meter scale in wall mode. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/d...o=file&id=5638

One thing to add about the meter, it will not scan a frozen wall. The frozen wood comes up 0%. Frozen water is different to the meter then wet water. Do your scanning before the freeze sets in. And before the spring thaw where everything sweats all over from condensation.

Consider this reply a place to start. There is a lot to absorb above, even if you only looks at the pics in those posts. But it will start you thinking about what may be ahead. Ask away at more questions, this is going to be a process.

Consider posting about your restoration. We can help as you go along and it will helps others in the future who come behind you.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-01-2022, 07:31 AM   #13
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Good Morning John,
Thank you so very much, you have given us so much incite, my wife and I are so grate full for your wealth of knowledge, now we are in a more knowledgeable position to move forward with our repairs. I will keep you posted on our progress
Ken & Kim
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Old 10-01-2022, 09:09 PM   #14
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Hi Ken,

You are very welcome. When you get into it, we are here to help as we can, just ask.

Good luck

John
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Old 10-02-2022, 12:03 PM   #15
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Good Evening JohnB
I have a quick question , where can I get the siding to replace the damaged piece in the side
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Old 10-02-2022, 06:18 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenkim10 View Post
Good Evening JohnB
I have a quick question , where can I get the siding to replace the damaged piece in the side
Hi Ken,

Camper siding, that is one item I have not had to buy "just" yet. I have so far, managed to get around it.

But, I do have some leads on where to start. I have been saving these for the day I hoped I never had to use them...

Helmet Valley (west coast) They make siding for campers and have a storage business. https://www.hemetvalleyrv.net/siding-patterns/

Mac's Aluminum (they are in OK) https://macsaluminum.com/

Interstate RV metal (they are in OG) https://interstatervmetalandsupply.com/

Heintz Designs (not sure where they are) And I'm not sure what they sell, but they may have a lead on who they get their siding from when doing restorations. Heintz Designs – Heintz Designs

All-Rite (west coast) https://www.all-rite.com/patterns/ They can make most anything, the cost may be more the issue.

I heard there may be someone more on the east coast who makes RV siding, but I never heard the name.

This much I can tell you about your siding. There is a coating on the outside of the white siding called, Krystal Kote. It is not on the gold siding. That coating helps with scratches and minor dents. It does help for sure. The white siding up at the roof line has that coating on it. And that siding is a different pattern then then the rest of the camper. If you look at the white siding where the blue decal that runs the length of the camper, that piece of siding does not have the Krystal Kote on it. Sunline rolled that pattern with the decal when it was flat. While finding siding with Krystal Kote on it is the ideal thing, you may have to settle for not having it.

Also the top last piece of siding at the roof line was trimmed in place. Meaning you want a flat section about 1/2" to 1 inch or more above the roof line when you measure it. Then install the siding and with a router and the right bit, buzz off all the way down the camper to create a custom perfect fit. I use a carbide router bit, straight flutes with the bearing on the end to trim with. It make small chips, but it works well with the bearing holding it flush. Sunline used a bit that creates curled chips, you will find them all over the place when you rebuild the camper. That longer curling chip was most likely a speed thing, they can cut metal faster then the straight carbide I use.

The worst case if all those leads turn up not panning out, and you are out of options, then maybe, try to straighten it out. You can create a water seal using Etnerabond on the inside of the siding, and Proflex RV caulk on the outside to create a watertight barrier. Then, be creative and add a purchased flat vent plate or something to mount on the outside to make it look presentable. The vent pate is just a false cover to make it look OK, the straightened out still wrinkled look is behind the vent plate. I have a camper buddy in AZ who did this and it came out well. One would never know there was a hole behind the vent plate. Since you will have that wall all apart, you can add reinforcing wood as needed to have something to hold the screws of the vent cover. The siding is really thin and has no real strength to hold much unless there is a backer board behind it.

Let us know how the siding links work. Even if they cannot help you. But ask each one is they know anyone who may be able to make that pattern. Word of mouth goes a long way in the RV parts business.

When you get to the bent up moldings and may need new on them, they are available and I have bought many of them. Let me know which you need.

John
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Old 10-02-2022, 06:28 PM   #17
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There are other options, these are low cost but hit or miss if they have anything that will match.

Surplus RV outlets. These two I have been to several times. The price is always good if they have what you want. It is about a 4 hr drive from my place in central OH, but they will ship something also. It's ideally best if you go see it, but they will help if you send pics and dimensions too. The freight will be more then the siding if they have it, but it may be cheaper then buying custom made.

Bontragers https://bontragers.com/

Johnsons's https://www.johnsonssurplus.com/ They are just down the road from Bontragers.

John
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2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

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Old 10-03-2022, 01:39 PM   #18
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thanks John, I will explore my options
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Old 10-03-2022, 05:59 PM   #19
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Good evening John, a couple of the lights in my camper are not working are there electrical schematics available
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Old 10-03-2022, 06:20 PM   #20
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Hi Ken,

We have one Sunline wiring diagram that is close to your vintage 2007 camper. It is for a 2004 T2499, but it may help. It is here in our FILES section, log in to download a copy. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/d...do=file&id=357

The lights are all 12 VDC. Power comes from the battery out on the camper A frame if the battery disconnect switch is on, or from power converter when you are plugged into 120 VAC shore power.

If your camper has the original power converter still in it, it has a brown drop down cover and is made by WFCO. Inside are 12 VDC fuses and the 120 VAC circuit breakers. If some of the lights are working, then that is a good sign power is in the camper from either the battery or the power converter.

If you have no lights at all working, none of them, then that is different trouble shooting path.

The lighting circuits go like this, the 12 VDC lights are parallel daisy chained together on a fused circuit. They have several lighting circuits. They run a white ground wire (- 12VDC) and a black hot wire (+ 12 VDC) to each light. If either the white or black is lost upstream, then none of them down stream will work in that circuit. They are normally joined with a wire nut setup up in the ceiling above the fixture or at the wall if they are wall lights. All of the lights also have a local switch at the light and at least one is on a wall switch at the main entry door. There "might" be a wall switch in the bedroom and the bath room. Make sure those switches are on for the lights you want to check. The wall switch being on and the local light fixture being off, there is no light and visa versa.

If by chance someone upgraded to LED lights, (the camper came with incandescent 921 bulbs. ) LED's are polarity sensitive and if it is a wedge base bulb, take it out, flip it 180 and plug it back in and it may start working.

I would start with checking the fuses in the power converter, do the simple stuff first. Then the light switches, then see if the lights not working are LED's and flip the blub. If it still does not work break out a 12 VDC test light or voltmeter and start hunting for power or where it is lost.

Hope this helps and good luck. We have several here on the forum who are electrically handy and can help.

John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

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