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09-27-2020, 10:05 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 6
SUN #12290
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1988 saturn
Today is my first day being inside the 1988 Saturn travel trailer. We had a few issues with the travel since the exterior was a bit worn, so we need to replace the fiber glass of the door and the hood of the ac since they both flew off (cracked a window panels when the door's fiberglass flew off) so any suggestions on how to find the best replacements for those would be greatly appreciated.
I'll be talking to the previous owner tomorrow, but I've come across a few things that I'm not familiar with compared to my previous rv. There's a red light switch directly next to the door that I have no idea what it does. As well a another light switch next to the stove and bathroom area which may be for the water pump.
I'm also having a hard time with the water pump since I'm very new to all this and I know he plugged the hoses with whatever accessories go with them but I'm not sure how to reconnect them to the pump without breaking something.
Also, found out too late that the AC hood flew off and discovered a small bit of possible water damage because the ac was completely exposed to the elements. Hoping to dry it all out and get a new hood, but the bubbling of the wood floors in that area hurts my heart so much.
I'd love as much advice as I can get and I'll find the manual and get more of the information if y'all need it. Thank you!
Let me know if you want some pictures too.
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09-28-2020, 03:17 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Welcome Kaitlyn!
Congrats on your new Sunny!
Sorry to hear about the issues on your travel home.
The roof AC shroud, here is a place to start. https://www.icondirect.com/rv-exteri...tioner-shrouds You will need to determine what AC shroud to get. If you need help with that, let us know we can help. We will need your roof top AC unit make and model number. Pics help too.
On the door, yes some of the older camper entry doors have rotted themselves apart. Many have rebuilt the doors. If you have common wood tools and know how to use them, this is a very doable job. Not sure what your door fiberglass looks like, but if it is the bubble textured one on the outside that I have seen on some of the older campers, that may be still very available at some lumber yards. Again pics showing what you have really help us see what you are up against.
On the water pump and the hoses and what to do with them, here we need pictures to understand what you have. A prior owner may have changed something original and that's OK possibly, just we need to see it to help guide you what to do.
See here on how to attach pics to a post
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...html#post86041
See here on how to create and upload pics your your photo album here on our site. Then you can link them to a post if needed.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...html#post87945
On the light switches, again needing to see what you have, some of the older campers had a red lighted switch outside the bathroom for the bathroom light. I would light red to let you know you had the light left on inside. And there may be a local flip switch on the light fixture too. The main idea was, have the local fixture switch on all the time, then use the lighted wall switch for light on and off.
The range hood switches, some of the older campers had a water pump switches on the range hood. Again, pics help.
We do not always know what every model year had in it as they changed over the years since 1964 to 2007 models being the last made. Again pics help show what you have and we can usually always help.
Any and all questions are welcome. So ask away if you cannot find something in all our posts. Again tell us the year and model of the camper, if on an appliance, make and model and pics of the question area.
Looking forward to seeing and hearing about your Sunline adventures!
John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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09-30-2020, 01:06 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 6
SUN #12290
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Adding pictures
The ac has a tarp over it right now until we get the replacement which is the icon that was suggested.
The door has the a protector over it for the foam right now but we were able to find a replacement fiberglass that is the bubbly texture just like the original.
The pump for the water had the output hose in right now but the hose connected to the fresh water consists of hoses with clamps and probably a 1/2" hose end.
We don't know how the original owner attached the two ends together but we are trying to find a double female connector to get things running again. It's just difficult to find one that isn't just one solid piece, since the hose doesn't move freely to rotate it closed.
I added a few pictures to give an idea of what I'm working with and the general look of the rv. I can add more pictures of the ceiling and floor to show the past water damage and how the floor has swelling. I'd like to replace it someday and replace it with vinyl floors.
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09-30-2020, 06:23 PM
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#4
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaitlyn
We don't know how the original owner attached the two ends together but we are trying to find a double female connector to get things running again. It's just difficult to find one that isn't just one solid piece, since the hose doesn't move freely to rotate it closed.
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This pic,
There is for sure something missing there and it is not original. There also appears to be a gray "something" as part of the suction line, can you take a picture showing more of the pump suction hose? The entire setup to either the floor of the camper if the tank is under the camper, or to inside the camper if the fresh tank is inside the camper.
Once we can see more of that was added, we can suggest what to do with it.
Pure speculation is, they created some king of winterizing kit to draw RV antifreeze into the fresh water system for winterizing. That or there use to be a water strainer before the pump to keep dirt etc out of the pump and they took it out and never put it back in. But this could be way off base.
The hose threaded part also looks to be a larger thread size then the pump, OR it may be a picture anomaly. See if the OD of the pump plastic fitting is the same OD as the suction piping thread OD.
There are ways to fix this without too much issue, just need to see the whole suction line creation.
Hope this helps
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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09-30-2020, 09:09 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 6
SUN #12290
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The gray hose is the 'output' hose. It is directly underneath the shower.
I connected the plug from the regular hose end and it is the same size as the pump end. Though the ridges are more prominent on the pump.
The hose is connected to the fresh water tank, which is under the kitchen sink inside the rv. (the tank is a 20 gallon, thought I'd throw that out there).
I should mention that when I first looked at the fresh water pump, the hoses were plugged by the white accessories in the pictures. The red wires that connect the pump to the electrical were not attached. So I think I can agree with you on the winterizing. He left the freshwater tank completely full though so I'm not sure.
I tried my best to show the whole attachment of the hose to the tank, but as you can see in the picture with the hose under the gray box, the hose is underneath the power converter.
I hope that helps a bit.
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09-30-2020, 10:24 PM
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#6
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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The pics now help.
There is a gray shut off valve in the fresh tank supply line. We can now see it with your extra pics.
Using this pic as a guide, on what to remove and what to add.
In order to correct the setup, I suggest this.
Go to the lumber yard, hardware store, Home depot, Lowes etc and obtain these parts. Print out the needs and ask the clerk to help you make the connections. A good old fashion hardware store may can help too.
To connect to the water pump, you need a 1/2" PEX swivel fitting. This fitting has a nut and rubber cone washer that should screw right onto the water pump. The swivel fitting can spin, allowing you to tighten the nut to the pump.
One of these. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-1...212S/301541047
Get a short piece of flexible 1/2" ID potable water hose to fit onto the 1/2" PEX swivel fitting and to fit onto the end of the gray shut off valve. You may have to buy 1 ft off a roll.
Remove the old short piece of hose on the end of the gray shut off valve. You will no longer use that old hose. It is held on with a Pex crimp clamp at the valve. It is a little complex, but those crimp clamps can be undone with a screw driver and pliers. Wear gloves as they are tough fittings that you do not jab yourself. The old clamp is no longer useable once undone. They are one use clamps.
Make the new hose long enough, with a some extra, to connect the gray shut off valve to the swivel fitting at the pump.
These PEX crimp clamp will work on the hose to the fitting. Make sure the clamp fits over the OD of the hose you buy. https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...953A/202032891
The down side of this, a tool will be needed to crimp those clamps. The cheapest one I found was $20 https://www.amazon.com/AB-Crimping-C...1524743&sr=8-1
If you have a friend who is a plumber, they may have a cinch crimp tool you can borrow. Some tool rental places have them too. Show them the clamp fitting you need to crimp to get the right one.
Some folks have tried this kind of worm drive clamp in place of the crimp rings, however I have never had lasting luck that they do not leak later on. The compression of the hose to the PEX fittings is not strong enough.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...0595/206261538
You ideally have a swivel fitting on the pump to be able to tighten the fitting as you cannot rotate the hose or the pump.
The PEX option I am showing above, is not complex or overly expensive for the fittings, but the crimping tool is an expense. The store may have a rental or a more manual one cheaper.
Another forum member may have a thought on how to do this, but you still will need the swivel fitting at the pump that works with the pump fitting.
There is also the possibly and RV repair shop can help you. This is very simple for them to do, just getting into one for this small a job may be complex. But you can try.
Hope this helps.
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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10-01-2020, 07:02 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 6
SUN #12290
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Alright, I was able to get everything you said from Lowe's.
Tomorrow I'll start working on it.
Thank you so much for your help. I honestly wouldn't have been able to figure it out without you.
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