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Old 09-26-2013, 09:05 PM   #1
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1987 Seville 3350 33'

Hi all! My husband and I just bought a 33' 1987 Seville 3350. It is in pretty good condition for it's age (a year older than me!), but the previous owner fried the electric and did some poor DIY work/rewiring. It is rigged to work, but the electric is not running through the walls. We are going to have an electrician friend look at the wiring and we may be taking down the walls and rewiring the trailer ourselves. We are both really new to RV owning/repair, so this will be a major learning experience for us. We know the electrical issue is a big project, but the price of the trailer was super cheap.

I am basically looking for any information on repairing/maintenance of the trailer. We are aiming to work on it at our house this winter and move it upstate where we typically camp. I think it is missing the hot water heater, in addition to the wiring issues.

Something I was wondering about on the ascetic side, is it possible to paint the interior? The kitchen has some very 80's floral pattern and the rest of the walls remind me a smoke stained wallpaper. I was also thinking of repainting the cabinets and removing the carpet and replacing it with a faux wood vinyl tile.

Thanks for any help!
Angela
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Old 09-27-2013, 05:41 AM   #2
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Hi Sunline 1987! First and foremost welcome to the forum, you will find many people here that are not only very knowledgeable but willing to share that knowledge!

I am by no means the person to talk to you about re-wiring a trailer - waayy beyond my scope of knowledge....however I can tell you that remodeling the interior is your way of personalizing your Sunline. Yes people have painted walls, cabinets, re-arrange a floor plan, put in floor laminate flooring, etc.......so go for it!

Hope your electrical issue is not as daunting as it appears to be!
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Old 09-27-2013, 06:28 AM   #3
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Welcome!

If you have an electrician looking at your wiring, that is great and better leave it to him. If the previous owners didn't tear any walls down with their DIY fix, odds are you might not have to either.

I think the Seville was the high end of the Sunline line back then. Sounds like a nice, large camper. That thing with the front kitchen will have a rather high hitch weight so keep that in mind. I think it is listed at 850 lbs completely dry.

You can paint the walls and you can also put wallpaper over wallpaper. You can also paint the cabinets as they are wood.

Instead of those stick down vinyl tile, go with the vinyl planks. We did the $2 a sqft light bamboo interlocking adhesive Allure from Home Depot and it looks great. I have some pictures on a thread somewhere in the repairs an maintenance section that I started with my bathroom repair. I would not use anything else in a camper as it is waterproof, just about completely scratchproof and VERY easy to make the complex cuts that are needed often in a trailer.

How is the trailer in regards to water damage?
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Old 09-27-2013, 03:09 PM   #4
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Thanks! We are going to try to tackle all of the needed repairs before we do anything cosmetic, so we need to get the issues with the wiring and roof fixed first.

The lady that did the previous work to the trailer probably did not do things correctly, so we will likely be fixing some of the issues that she created. When she "rewired" the camper, she must have cut a hole in the roof near the A/C unit in order to rewire it. She patched the roof in that spot with metal flashing and tar, which is pretty unsightly and we are not sure of the integratity of the repair or how long it will last. We want to fix it so it looks better and doesn't leak, so any help with that would be appreciated.

I took a bunch of pictures of the trailer, so you all can see what we are working with. It looks like we are missing something that is supposed to be under the fridge, but I am not sure what. I thought it was the hot water heater, based on something I read, but I am not sure now. Anyway, here in the album of photos that I took.

1987 Sunline Seville T3350
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Old 09-27-2013, 04:52 PM   #5
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Oh, I forgot to mention, there is no real noticeable water damage that we could see!
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Old 09-27-2013, 05:27 PM   #6
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WOW It looks like you will have your hands full for awhile.....from the pics of the roof - I think I would start there!!!!!!

Good Luck!
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Old 09-27-2013, 06:47 PM   #7
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That's a loooong Sunline! Looks like it could be very comfortable when you get done with it. (We agree with Poppy & Nana: start with the roof. )
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:05 PM   #8
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I have the same model...Seville...mine is 31 feet and a little different arrangement. Any questions about the model... I'd be glad to try to help. Yes, get that electrician over pretty quick...this looks like a real jackleg wiring job....what with the exposed wiring all over the place and loose wires dangling... and taped ends exposed. The guys may have gutted your DC system and simply wired AC outlets in convenient areas of the trailer...Did the trailer come with a battery? Have you checked to see if all interior lights work? Until you have an electrician look at this situation...be very careful. Also...looks like the furnace...I think that may have been under the fridge...has been removed .
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:22 PM   #9
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Welcome to the forum Angela.

It looks like you have quite a project ahead. Yup, the roof !!!

As for removing the cabinets, I believe even the 1987 versions were like the newer versions and had everything built from the inside out. The walls were built first then the screws that hold up the cabinets were put in from the outside and then the outside walls were put on, it make it real challenging to remove them.

As for the AC wiring, it is certainly ...er .. ah ... creative? I don't think I have ever seen anything quite like that. If it was mine I would rip out ALL the surface wiring stuff and that electrical box in the bathroom. I am not familiar with that model but I am quite sure the main electrical box was not in the bathroom.

One thing different in camper wiring is that the outlets (at least on the newer units) were not in regular outlet boxes like a house. The outlets were self contained without boxes. If you remove one, with the shore power disconnected, you will see what I mean.

Good luck with the project and keep us informed, and ask questions as you go.

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Old 09-30-2013, 06:33 AM   #10
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ROOF FIRST!

It looks like a metal roof and while flashing and tar could be used to repair, a 10 pack of the little squares from home depot just haphazardly placed with tar like that can't be good. Someone with more metal roof experience than me may be able to help. I know that the AC units come off somewhat easily and you can replace roof segments.

That space below the fridge in the pic right after the roof repair was not a heater, it was used by the original fridge which would have been propane and electric and filled the entire cavity. Actually, I'm pretty sure you knew that and were talking about the area underneath that with the screen over it. I don't think that is the furnace.

From what I can tell, it looks like the furnace is on the door side of the trailer and just behind the tires. What is usually under the fridge is the power center which would make sense considering the sorry state of wiring in that thing.

The power center probably broke and instead of replacing it, they did that insane wiring job in there.

That will be a bit of work but thank goodness you have a friend who is an electrician. That's probably the most daunting repair. Once the roof is done, you can just hit the other stuff one at a time and it won't be so overwhelming.

I really like that floor plan. Back bedrooms are great and look at all of that storage across from the bathroom!
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:36 PM   #11
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OhhWell,
The reason I said I thought it was under the fridge is because I don't see any other place on the entire outside of the trailer big enough for the heater to be installed. I believe they were all installed from the outside... That opening should be about 15 inches long and 8 inches, give or take a little, wide. The opening you point out...I can't get that picture large enough to have a good look...but it looks too small for a furnace. You are right...that vent that I pointed out was for the original fridge, but I couldn't find anywhere else the furnace may have been vented...can't see the entire trailer so it could be at some undisclosed location I guess...or it may have had the A/C wired and hooked up to also be the heater ???? I think that was an option on some models. In that case we may be looking for something that just never was there. Whatever!!!! Yep...roof first then electrical.
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Old 10-01-2013, 10:32 PM   #12
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Thank you everyone for the words of encouragement and advice. We know we are going to have to put a lot of blood sweat and tears into this camper, and all of your help is greatly appreciated.

We know we should be starting with the roof, but when we spoke to our electrician friend, he said he had free time this week and is actually going to work on it tomorrow. We already pulled all of the wiring the previous owner did, and it was actually more unsafe then we thought, because we found one or two spots where a screw had bit into the wiring. They are really lucky the trailer didn't catch fire while they were using it for temporary housing. I know the lady's heart was in the right place when she tried to rewire it herself and she is really a nice person, but electricity is really something that should be left up to the professionals. Which is why I am so glad we know someone and can barter computer repair work for electrical help. I will give an update after I know more about the issues, but the guy seemed optimistic about it when he stopped by real quick over the weekend.

@Drake - The trailer did come with a battery, but none of the lights seem to be working. The previous owner actually bought a brand new battery, but if I remember correctly, she couldn't get them to work. I'll have the electrician look into it as well.

@Gene - Thank you for that information about the cabinets. I understand why they did that, but if we do need to gut it, that sounds like it would make it so much more difficult! Thankfully we are getting the wiring taken care of ASAP. Having the breaker box in the bathroom does seem like a really odd location, but we aren't sure where it was originally either. Hopefully the electrician can figure it out. I didn't know that about the outlets, do they still sell those online? The previous owner did try to shove some newer outlets into the walls with boxes, but they didn't seem to fit and just left us with several wholes to patch.

@OhhWell - Yeeeeah, the roof job is just... terrible. I'm not sure why she even "repaired" the roof. My only guess is that she cut a hole in it when working on the wiring, in order to hook up the AC unit. I'm not really sure. I pulled on one of the tiles, to see how well it would hold, and it pulled up really easily and it wasn't that warm of a day here in Pennsylvania. It is good to know that the AC unit is easy to remove, because we may look into just replacing a section of the roof. I know we should be doing the roof first, but it seems really dry (we did find a small bit of water damage, but it was not located in the area of the patch) so we are going to research it more and look into the cost of doing it ourselves vs. paying someone. We don't want to put a ton of money into it, since we only paid $300 for it, but we understand the value of a good roof!
"That space below the fridge in the pic right after the roof repair was not a heater, it was used by the original fridge which would have been propane and electric and filled the entire cavity. Actually, I'm pretty sure you knew that and were talking about the area underneath that with the screen over it. I don't think that is the furnace."

We really weren't sure! We couldn't find a picture of the fridge area online at all, and we thought it looked like the space had been altered, but we also weren't sure why you would need access to the fridge from the outside. There is something in that space behind the screen under the fridge, but it escapes me as to what my husband said it was. I have some pictures of it, and others, that I will upload as well. I would really feel bad for the lady if that was the case, because she probably spent as much on new wiring as it would be to replace that part, but I could be under estimating the cost of a new power center. I am glad I found this community because it has been a great source of help.

And, yes, I love the storage space! My sister was jealous of the amount of storage it has. She complained that it has more cabinet space that her one-bedroom apartment. Haha!

And now I feel like I have written a book! I really appreciate all of the help that this community has to offer and I will try to keep you updated on everything. It was a busy weekend and finding time to work on the camper is always a little difficult with a two year old in tow, but we hope to have it up and ready by spring ::crosses fingers:: Thanks everyone for all of the help. As always, any other information/suggestions is greatly appreciated!

I couldn't get the pictures onto my computer, so I will try again tomorrow and post them when I get a chance.
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Old 10-02-2013, 06:20 AM   #13
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we found one or two spots where a screw had bit into the wiring.
Oh my....

This camper is a very good example of how "redneck engineering" isn't always the way to go. It is such a shame that the PO didn't just think through the electrical problem. There was already properly run wiring from the factory. Why a person would run new wiring in such an awful manner is besides me when finding the source of the overall problem and just replacing that seems the rational course. Maybe they had a lot of 15amp wiring and those boxes already and it was between the cost of a new power center (My guess at the root of the trouble) and a day or two of running wire...

I think you are probably right that they cut through the roof to run power to the air conditioner. That just makes me sad. At least it was a metal roof though. That makes it not a complete loss. That attempt to repair the cut almost makes me laugh it is soooooo awful. Thank goodness they must have slopped enough tar on there to keep the water out. Once again I am floored however because there was already perfectly good wiring going to the AC. They could have just tapped into the ends at the power center instead of cutting through the doggone roof.

I'm actually going to reverse and say that under the fridge may very likely be the furnace like Drake thought. It would make the most sense because it could be ducted properly on that side and the opening is large enough for an air intake. The duct taped over thing on the outside could be the exhaust. The more I look at the pics, the thing behind the tires on the door side kinda looks like an access port for something like fresh water which would make sense as the tank would be under the wardrobes.

That leaves me looking at the pictures trying to figure out where the power center is / was. I am fearing the latter as perhaps it was on an overhead and was removed. Then again, it almost looks like the shore power cord access door is perhaps just behind the wheels on the street side which would put the entry in the bathroom area. That could explain why they put their new breaker box under the sink.

$300 is a great price. I would have bought it in a second at that price as well and fixed it up to sell. You can buy a new convert-a-bed sofa for about $500 or do what a lot of people do and just put a futon in there.

anyhow, more pics please!
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Old 10-02-2013, 01:18 PM   #14
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Couple-a more observations/ speculations/ guesses.... could that be the power hook up there on the door side to the far right...I can't see clearly, but is that a plug at the bottom left side of the compartment door? And I see a couple of possiblilities for the location of the original converter ( power center) in the 12th picture down on posting. I see a place with "wiring" coming out of it on the facing wall and what looks to be another panel along the right side of the wall going down the passageway. My converter in my Seville is located along the right side of that passageway under the closet area. However, with the configuration you have, they could have placed it any where.... but I'd look low on the trailer, not high. I hope the "electrician" has left the converter in the trailer and has not just thrown it away! I can give you the info from my converter if you need to replace it. Right... the reason you have no lights in the trailer is because some of them run on battery, and if you have no battery then they won't come on, and if you do hook up a battery, they will only work as long as the battery charge holds because without a converter, the battery won't stay charged up. Best to let your electrician take a look before you hook up a battery to check those lights anyway. Ohhwell...I'm not at all sure, "upon further review" about that vent being used for the heater...For there to be one of the hydro-flame furnaces installed, it would have it's own distinctive door, not share the refrigerator vent....and the placement under the fridge would be a poor choice too I think, don't you? This all leads me to think that maybe it never had furnace, but used the A/C to heat instead.

Also...I hope I am wrong but in that 12th picture, is that a baseboard heater along the right wall? If someone had this trailer and tried to live in it during the winter, it may explain why the rewiring took place...these trailers, except for one or two circuits are not wired for the heavy amperage that a baseboard heater would pull...the wiring would heat up and ...well you get the picture.

Your bedroom is the same exactly as our trailer, and the space will accept a regular FULL size mattress.

Hope this helps
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:31 PM   #15
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That thing to the far right is the catch for the awning support (That is missing). That area with the wiring coming out of it would be under the tub. Kinda scary huh with the quality of electrical work done to that thing? The couch would normally be there anyhow. That panel in the hallway would be a better possibility but could just be an access panel for plumbing.

So many things have been ripped out of that trailer and discarded, I fear for the power converter. I would HIGHLY doubt that the converter portion of the power center was hooked up so no lights when plugged in. It would be interesting if they actually left it intact and the 12v side was still functional allowing lights off of battery power.

Drake, I am still on the fence about the space under the fridge. If you look at picture number 3, below the fridge access grate is what I am wondering might be the furnace exhaust under the duct tape. You can make out a circular depression with a flange. I agree that under the fridge would not be the opportune place for the furnace though! The main thing that is having me still look for a place for the furnace as opposed to a heat pump in the AC unit is that there is still the ducting for the propane furnace. you can see a vent in the kitchen below the stove. Then again, if there was a Heat Pump upgrade option, they probably would have just left the furnace ducts.

That does look kinda like a baseboard electrical heater jury rigged to the wall on picture 12 doesn't it? Hopefully it is just a simple 1500 watt model. Then again, in this Frankenstein, it could be just about anything...

It's fun playing detective with the pictures but I bet that with about 10 minutes hands on, we could sort out what happened to the power system.
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:33 PM   #16
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Here are the pictures: More trailer pictures - Imgur

A quick update: Everything went really well with the electrician, he was able to get the power restored, for the most part. I meant to ask him what exactly the issue was, but he got a call to leave for a job while we were talking, so I'll have my husband call him later. The only remaining electric issue is the power converter, which is DOA and needs to be replaced. He said he would install it after we find a replacement, so suggestions on where to look would be greatly appreciated!


@Ohhwell: Yeah, leaving it up to the professionals really would have saved the PO frustration/money. I asked our friend, out of morbid curiosity, if it would have cost the woman to have a profession come out more than what she spent on wiring and such to replace the issue, and he said she probably spent the same or more redoing it herself. It's sad that she caused the trailer to have additional issues in an attempt to save money. However, had she fixed the issue correctly, we probably wouldn't have bought the trailer because she was going to ask around what she paid for it, which was about $2,500.

Hopefully we will have most of Sunday to donate to working on the roof. I'm still really not sure how to tackle the issue. I assume we should remove what work she did, but I'm not sure what we are going to find under there and if we need to replace a large chunk of roof, what materials we should use.

Anyway, I have to run! Thanks again!
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Old 10-02-2013, 03:05 PM   #17
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Well, now we know that Sunline did indeed put the furnace under the fridge... At least that's cleared up. That's funny that the converter was just behind a little wooden door this whole time. It would be interesting to hear from the electrician as to what he had to do.

Sunday sounds like a load of fun..... I was really hoping someone with metal roof experience would come along to speak to replacing a panel. An actual residential roofing contractor may be able to offer help on repairing that as well. My understanding was that they were corrugated panels just like on the side of the camper and could be replaced. It looks like you may get lucky and only have to take the AC off.

Looking at the state of the sealant on the roof, it's kinda amazing you only have the water damage you have so far (hopefully). At least they were nice enough to have already taken the couch out for you....

Maybe try posting in the repairs and maint. section of these boards specifically about replacing a roof panel. If you can get a replacement easy enough, it would be smart to do as much at once if possible. That is to say, you really need to seal all of the seems but if you have to remove an edge piece to get the bad roof panel out first, there's not much point in sealing that just to pull it up again.

I would certainly remove every scrap of the old sealant and put new Dicor down on everything else though. The nice thing about the metal roof is that you don't have to worry about puncturing the rubber while trying to get the old sealant off.

I wish you luck with the water damage that is already in there. Nothing gives me that sinking feeling like finding water damage and dry rot. Hopefully if it is not too far gone, you can expose it, apply some antifreeze to it to kill the rot, let it dry for two weeks and just cover it back up as it is in out of the way places. Some of those pictures of the wiring have the look of water damage showing on the linoleum but that could also be the flash and shadows.
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:52 PM   #18
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..... I didn't know that about the outlets, do they still sell those online? The previous owner did try to shove some newer outlets into the walls with boxes, but they didn't seem to fit and just left us with several wholes to patch......
Yes, they are still available. Here is one example I found: Pass & Seymour Almond Self Contained Wall Receptacle | Mobile Home Parts Store

They are often called "Self Contained Wall Receptacle" and "speedwire Receptical". Because trailer walls are only about 2 inches thick the thin self contained outlets do not need a box. One hazard is that the wires just push into the receptacle and are not held with a screw, not good for high wattage items. You may also be able to find shallow boxes made for "old construction" that will work with shallow outlets. Those boxes have an ear that holds behind the wall when you turn a screw on the corners.

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Old 10-02-2013, 09:05 PM   #19
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Well ...as the sun sets on this much abused old Seville, we leave her in your loving care with the hope that you can fix her up to be the travel trailer of your dreams. As you have seen, we are all here to help. The converter that was in the trailer was either a B-W Manufacturers 3230 ( 30 amps) or a 3240 (40 amp) converter. Whether that company is still in operation, I do not know, but I'd Google them and see what comes up...if they are out of business...take the fried one into an rv place near you and they can fit you up with a replacement. The roof is a real sticky wicket...whatever you replace it with, it should be one piece...not several...the more seams the more leak probability. Don't hook up a/c to the furnace...that is gas/dc operation only....and you will fry the squirrel cage fan and the electronics if you do.
You are going to have to spend some money to erase the scars on this old beauty, but she'll be worth it. Good luck!
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Old 10-03-2013, 12:39 AM   #20
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Welcome Angela! I can get you some pics of what your coach originally looked like inside, I'm sure I have some. I'll look it up tomorrow though as I'm too tired to see straight right now.

I haven't read all of the above, but in short:
- You can get a replacement porch light and wire it up in place of your missing one (where metal base is what remains)
- Yes, the furnace would have originally been below the refrigerator. The (small) outlet for it is about the size of the area covered in duct tape. At this point, I'd try to retrofit a new RV furnace even though it'll be a little bigger.
- There was likely a drawer or two below the refrigerator that probably rotted as the old refrigerator leaked.
- The original refrigerator would probably have taken up the rest of the space there as it would have been a big 6 or 8 cubic foot model.
- Original microwave would have been huge and inefficient, so your new one will work much better.
- Was it originally from Stivenson Camper Sales in Butler?
- Water heater burner tube needs some slight adjustment, burning a bit rich.
- It did have a big, plush hide-a-bed in there in fabric that matched the dinette cushions (looks like Salmon to me, but I struggle with '88 colors). A futon from somewhere like Ikea would be as good, but make sure to figure out way to fasten it down. Original had a skirt hanging in front to hide everything underneath.
- Rear bed should have had plywood on top, a stationary piece in back and a big hinged part on the front with gas shocks to hold it up.
- I don't believe the carpet is the original color
- Wheels/tires aren't original, original wheels were either like that and painted tan or solid steel with hubcaps.
- Not going to comment on the roof other than the A/C unit isn't supposed to lean back like that...
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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