T310SR Enclosed Tanks Option (with Pics)

[JohnB]

Fellow Sunliners

For those curious on what an enclosed tank option looks like on a TT by Sunline, here are pics of mine. The T310SR was only made during 2003 and 2004. So I do not know if all T310SR's had this or it was an actual option. In my case I’m glad I have it.

The tank layout is good in my opinion. The dump valves are way up inside to not have cold weather affect them. The fresh tank is right over the axle so when filled it does not add/subtract tongue weight.

The enclosure, this needs some work. I know this is considered to be an “extended season” tank enclosure but there are some things that just do not look Sunline. Mostly in craftsmanship. A little more time spent and the design would of looked/worked a lot better. In time I will update this area and feel I can then truly extend the camping season with water still on board. I have a good design start from Sunline, all I have to do is cleanup the insulation and bottom cover support, plug some big holes and redo the fresh tank drain to be an inside shut off drain spout.

I also found a few things that where in need of fixing and glad I caught it now. Here are the pics of inside:

Here is a shot of the bottom cover. It is a plastic corrugate sheet. I have seen this on many other enclosed tanks campers.


And the front area. A metal cross members blocks/creates the front and rear.


And the sheet laying off the camper


Now the insides, The slide side looking back. You can see the black tank dump valve at the end of the tank


A more central shot looking to the back


A shot looking to the front, the gray tank


A shot at the back of the enclosed area. You can see the fresh tank over the front axle


And the fresh tank with the low point pocket. I’m glad to see this. I will soon convert the side suction port to tee into the bottom drain port and gain another 3 to 5 gallons of usable water from the tank before the pump sucks air in. I did this on my T2499 and it worked very well. I could suck down to the last quart in the tank and not air lock the pump.


There is also something unique to Sunline here maybe. See the large metal strapping under the fresh tank. That is a good thing. That strapping supports the bottom of the fresh tank when you are towing with full fresh water. I have seen my friends Jayco and Skyline and those 2 campers only have thin wimpy pipe strap tape holding the fresh tank in. I would be real nervous towing with those setups, but Sunlines with this heavy tank strap, I tow often with full fresh water and no worries the tank is coming out. Both of my Sunlines have this feature. I do not know when it became standard, but it was there in 2003 and 2004.

Now here is the first OMG! . See the black tank dump handle about ready to completely unscrew it self. I fixed this with a jam nut to keep the long pull rod from coming off. I also did it to the gray tank rod. That would have been an issue if it came undone at a CG or worse rolling down the road.


Then there is this. That is the manual slide drive shaft where you can put a crank on the outside of the TT to move the slide if the motor burns out or battery is dead. 2, issues.



First the rod is wearing a hole in the side of the air duct. Second, the roll pin fell out of the rod to the motor shaft. Glad I did not have to use this. So I corrected this while was in there. I put a plastic pipe sleeve around the manual shaft to protect the duct. There was no way to move the duct. And I put a screw with double nuts/lock washer on the shaft.


This is all for now. More as improvements come.

First is added bottom insulation. I’m looking at this. Flex Foil http://www.ipcpack.com/foilbuildapp.cfm The R value pending application really high and it is friendly with wetness if it gets wet. And it is not very thick and is light. I was going to put this on as a first layer, then the plastic cover over it on the bottom.

I found this at a Jayco plant tour this summer. They use it on the bottom of there fiver’s. They claim it to have an R15 value.

Anyone ever see or use this stuff?

Hope you enjoyed the pics.

John

[Tweety]

John,
Is there heat to the enclosed tank area? Was there any insulation, or just the corragated sheet?
Pam

[frank]

Thanks for the pictures, John. I've been seriously considering enclosing and heating the two tanks on the 2363 to allow for cooler weather camping. Because of the way the tanks sit, I'm thinking of 1/4" ext grade ply boxes lined with foam..

That insulation looks interesting. Going by the example install shots and the estimated R values, it seems they are using the air pocket created by the foilbuild to gain R. The bigger the pocket created, the higher the R value. So the R15 doesn't seem too far fetched with a 4" frame channel when going by the manufacturers info there.

- Frank

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by Tweety

John,
Is there heat to the enclosed tank area? Was there any insulation, or just the corragated sheet?
Pam

Pam

The Pink foam board insulation around the sidewalls was there. About 1” thick. Maybe ¾” I did not measure but it is one of the 2.

The heat,

When the furnace runs, radiant heat from the ducts is given off heating the space. I have seen this concept on other TT makers as well. I have an ambient air temp sensor I will add to this space with a digital readout inside the TT so I can monitor what is going on. Nowhere can I find anyone to tell how cold one can go with this type of enclosed tank setup. They only say extended season. So I have to monitor and prove myself. Pending the findings if the radiant heat is not enough, I may add a very small damper off one of the ducts to pump real heat into the space. And ideally be able to control it as needed.

The first key is closing up the area a lot tighter then it is. The area has many large holes in this setup. The slide square shaft has a 5" square hole for a 1" slide shaft, the dump pipe has very large triangle shaped holes next to it. And then there is a lot of leakage around the perimeter where the large corrugated sheet attaches. If I just purely insulate better I can get by from the night freezes when day is above freezing. Which is really all I’m after. I will not attempt it if night and day are well below freezing. In Ohio I can get the month of November, part of December, maybe a little January pending the year and some of late March. February/March seems to miserable that I have not been able to camp for other rotten weather reasons.

John

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by frank

Thanks for the pictures, John. I've been seriously considering enclosing and heating the two tanks on the 2363 to allow for cooler weather camping. Because of the way the tanks sit, I'm thinking of 1/4" ext grade ply boxes lined with foam..

That insulation looks interesting. Going by the example install shots and the estimated R values, it seems they are using the air pocket created by the foilbuild to gain R. The bigger the pocket created, the higher the R value. So the R15 doesn't seem too far fetched with a 4" frame channel when going by the manufacturers info there.

- Frank

Frank

Yes the Flex Foil does look interesting. The roll I get will also be used towards my sons house crawl space.

As far as heat, I really do not want to heat real hot, just keep it like 40 on a night that is 20 or 15. I'm thinking if it is too hot, 60 to 70, then condensation may/will come from it. Actually the water in the tanks are probably 40 or so. So they create a level of heat and when hot dish water/shower goes down the drain. If we can keep the drafts out the rest may take care of a lot of it.

I also thought your fresh tank was under the bed. Was it? If so then that tank is already inside.

John

[frank]

Originally Posted by JohnB

Frank

Yes the Flex Foil does look interesting. The roll I get will also be used towards my sons house crawl space.

As far as heat, I really do not want to heat real hot, just keep it like 40 on a night that is 20 or 15. I'm thinking if it is too hot, 60 to 70, then condensation may/will come from it. Actually the water in the tanks are probably 40 or so. So they create a level of heat and when hot dish water/shower goes down the drain. If we can keep the drafts out the rest may take care of a lot of it.

I also thought your fresh tank was under the bed. Was it? If so then that tank is already inside.

John

John,

40 sounds like a good figure and is right around what I had in mind for "heating".. I'm still deciding on what to use to generate the heat, but there's some Klixon thermostatic switches out there that have set points right around the 40 mark. I have to run a little test or two, but I suspect a section of heat tape inside the box may do the trick.

Like you said, just getting them directly out of the cold breeze may be more than enough to comfortably extend the season.

You are correct, fresh is under the bed. The grey & black tanks are mounted not quite side by side underneath. I think I can actually (and even rather simply) enclose the two tanks, drain pipes and the valves in one (maybe two) pieces. Obviously, I'll need a door for valve access

- Frank

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by frank

I'm still deciding on what to use to generate the heat, but there's some Klixon thermostatic switches out there that have set points right around the 40 mark. I have to run a little test or two, but I suspect a section of heat tape inside the box may do the trick.

Snip... Obviously, I'll need a door for valve access

- Frank

Frank

Yes the Klixon switch is about the most simplistic. Have to figure out what differential they have. At set point +- 2 or 3 degrees??

Depending on ones stash of left over stuff…A low temp thermostat running a relay. Have not yet sorted this one out yet as I can run the furnace and get heat form the ducts.

On heat tape, I “thought” they had 2 types. The one type it will melt the tape if it is not wrapped around a pipe with water to cool the tape. I had some of those years ago. The other type, they could be loft out in the open and not burn up. Have to read the packages.

Actually a 40 watt rough surface shop light bulb might be enough. Or a 60 or a 20 watt. You screw in or plug in the light blub thru your access door when you get to camp. And take out when traveling and bouncing down the road. You can also see what holes to the outside world exist at night….

This winter I will have temperature data off my sensor to help see what it is we really do have and will share with the group. I know others are up to this enclosed tanks topic too.

John

[frank]

Originally Posted by JohnB

Frank

Yes the Klixon switch is about the most simplistic. Have to figure out what differential they have. At set point +- 2 or 3 degrees??

Depending on ones stash of left over stuff…A low temp thermostat running a relay. Have not yet sorted this one out yet as I can run the furnace and get heat form the ducts.

On heat tape, I “thought” they had 2 types. The one type it will melt the tape if it is not wrapped around a pipe with water to cool the tape. I had some of those years ago. The other type, they could be loft out in the open and not burn up. Have to read the packages.

Actually a 40 watt rough surface shop light bulb might be enough. Or a 60 or a 20 watt. You screw in or plug in the light blub thru your access door when you get to camp. And take out when traveling and bouncing down the road. You can also see what holes to the outside world exist at night….

This winter I will have temperature data off my sensor to help see what it is we really do have and will share with the group. I know others are up to this enclosed tanks topic too.

John

Yes, this topic should generate some interest

I took a look at some of the Klixon type switches. The stuff that most places carry off the shelf have wide differentials (20F) and typically high set points. Common to use these for attic fans, etc so it makes sense. On "special order" you can have just about anything you desire, from below zero set points to single digit differentials. I bet the minimum order on those contains a lot of zeros, so your thermostat suggestion might be a more viable alternative.

Either way, I plan on including something for a high limit cut-out.

I believe you are correct with the different types of heat tape. I seem to remember using different types when wrapping some pipes vs. setting up a de-icer on someone's roof.

The light bulb is a workable option. I know some people strategically place them inside their trailers to prevent pipes from freezing up, and I've seen some high-school incubators heated quite nicely with light bulbs as well.

One thought I had was using a section of rope light - it's very low profile, easy to get, relatively inexpensive, runs usually around 6 watts per foot, can be cut to length to produce the desired wattage, and can be snaked around to spread the heat and eliminate hot spots. In quantity, this stuff can produce some serious heat - I saw a guy leave a 100' spool plugged in on a wooden floor for about a half hour - It did indeed char the floor and produce some smoke. Spread out, the heat is much more tame.. most packages I have seen of that stuff (and every roll) states to not plug it in when it's bunched up

Sorry for hijacking your thread!!

- Frank

[MACK C-85]

Another prospective......We ordered our trailer with the Heated Tanks option from the factory, we have two switches on the wall above the kitchen sink, one for the Potable Water tank, and one for the black and gray tanks. We have camped twice where the temp dropped into the low twenties/high teens overnight (35-40's daytime) without any issues. Of course you have to make sure you have water in all the tanks, but they seem to work (with admitted limited use) very well. None of our tanks are enclosed and I have often wondered if that would be a help or if it might overheat? The switches are currently on/off only, no temp control.

[Sunline Fan]

Originally Posted by MACK C-85

None of our tanks are enclosed and I have often wondered if that would be a help or if it might overheat?

Nothing like a big boiling tank of sewage under your floor!

Jon

[SanDimasJoe]

John,

Exactly what did you do to keep the dump tank release handle from unscrewing itself? My black tank dump tank handle unscrewed itself while on the road between New Mexico and Arizona. There was enough threads left on the end so that I could cut off the part that was ground down by the dragging on the asphalt. I could then screw the end back into the valve. I keep the handle secure with a flexible tie on the handle to the frame. But I would rather have something more secure.

Joe

[MACK C-85]

Nothing like a big boiling tank of sewage under your floor!

That definitely wouldn't be a good thing But.......

I'd be more worried about the blob of melted plastic that used to be my black (or gray or fresh water) tank laying under the trailer

I did a little research and most of the commerically available heater kits do have cutoffs....on 40 deg. off around 60 deg......so I guess cooking the tank isn't that great of an issue. I will have to look and see what brand SUNLINE used.

See the black tank dump handle about ready to completely unscrew it self.

Thanks John.......I also just discovered this problem on our last trip, it hadn't seperated yet, but it was close. I just screwed it back on the valve stem at the campground, but now I know I can crawl back under with an easy fix

[Sunline Fan]

I'm not sure if I have these extra long handles or not, but would loc-tite solve the problem? I've never checked them, so if I do have them, I should probably secure them now instead of when it's too late.

On a side note, one of our friends who have a Jayco FW found a problem with their black tank recently. The wife had gone up to use the coach with a friend and they leave the hose for the black tank flush hooked up all the time, with a tee off the auxilary spigot. She went to turn the sprinkler on (on the other side of the tee) and turned on the wrong valve. The black tank flush filled up the tank and started to come up through the toilet. One of them went to go to the bathroom and picked up the cover, only to discover it was about 30 seconds from over filling. As a result, like John said, it has really flimsy straps holding the tank up, and it bent those right now because the whole tank bowed. To make it even worse, this all happened inside the front basement! So they spent the early part of this past weekend visiting a welding shop to get some HD brackets and straps and then installing them until 2 A.M. I'll be ugly if the black tank flush is left on now!

Jon

[MACK C-85]

John B's method is probably the simplest fix, I'll summerize until he can respond (a picture would be worth.... .):

Unscrew the handle
Thread a properly sized nut onto the threaded control rod
Reattach the handle
Tighten the nut you added against the handle to "jam" it in place.

Both the Black and Grey rods are extended on our trailer and will get this fix after "Hanna" does her thing this weekend.

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by MACK C-85

John B's method is probably the simplest fix, I'll summerize until he can respond (a picture would be worth.... .):

Unscrew the handle
Thread a properly sized nut onto the threaded control rod
Reattach the handle
Tighten the nut you added against the handle to "jam" it in place.

Thanks Mack, you nailed it.

Here are the pics.

The problem



The fix


On the Locktite. Caution, they make all kinds of Locktite. If you use the Red (permanent). The parts will not come apart unless you use a torch and heat the joint to almost a glowing red to crack loose the joint. And then it will be tough to get it off the tube is so thin. At which time you may melt some of the dump valve in the process. OR you cut off the rod end if you want to rebuild the dump valve. They also make green permeanet and other even more indestruble compounds.

Locktite brand does make Blue (removable). It allows with force the rod to be unscrewed. I "almost" did this but then stopped. This pull rod on mine is actually a piece of stainless steel tubing with like a 1/32" wall thickness that is tapped inside. Not much. The blue will work but I was cautious on if I had to ever take the valve apart to fix it I might end up crushing the tubing trying to get it off. If the jam nut does not solve the problem, then I will go to the blue Loctite approach still with the jam nut. The jam nut really should not be a problem on it’s own.

Why they never put one on from day one totally escapes me. This is standard practice in mechanical world, automotive, agricultural or industrial. Right now the only way the pull rod is tight to the valve stem is it runs out of threads and sort of jams the last thread of the rod into the thin tubing trying to swedge it open. Not good. Since others have this same problem, the $00.10 5/16-18 nut is money well spent...

Good luck

John

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by frank

Sorry for hijacking your thread!!

Frank good buddy, no worries. This post is all about enclosed tanks or how to heat holding tanks for extended season use. We really have not talked much about this on the forum and really like all the post/opinions.

Well except maybe a black tank melt down.... I really can't get into that

If you find a heating/controlling setup that works, please post away.

H'mm the rope lights. Maybe, They would not have a road vibration issue so much as the ordinary light bulb. Just run a 10-foot set around the tank area with air on all sides of it.

My son bought me a 12-volt ambient temp gage and sensor for Fathers day. He works at Jeggs High Performance Car parts so he is into most any of those goodies. Some how unless you measure the temp it is hard to know what it is to know how bad the problem is. Maybe a wireless thermometer out of Wal-Mart for $10 too would help. No wires and goes high and low enough and you can read it inside.

John

[MACK C-85]

Why they never put one on from day one totally escapes me.

My thoughts exactly. Had mine been apart (almost, but not quite ) I would have thought the jam nut had fallen off. Thanks for the size of the nut John, now I can fix it without two trips under the trailer

[JohnB]

Fellow Campers

I have completed the next phase in my “extended season” enclosed tank project. This past weekend we gave it a “dry run” to actually see what temps the enclosed space reached when it was cold out side and we have no water in the camper.

First let me bring you up to date on the project events and then the final outcome.

From what I have attempted to find out, this “extended season” feature on my camper is something Sunline did on special request “I think”. The newer Sunline fiver’s have it I think as Std. I saw HappyCampers 5’er at the M & G and his was all closed up. But this is the 1st Sunline TT I have seen with this package other then maybe the special one Karl Kerns had made up. There may well be others out there, just I have not been able to find it in a Sunline.

The TT was at least made with the tank and dumps valves in the right configuration for this “extended season” package, however the amount of holes to the outside environment where still too many for me to feel comfortable in trying this.

Here is what I have come up with.

First off I had to fix my gray tank dump valve setup so I can lubricate the slider valve with Silicone to keep the O-rings from tearing themselves up. And once buried under this cover I had no way to even get to them so I expanded on the idea I use on the manin black tank valve. I added a silicone blow pipe.

Drilled and taped a 1/4” NPT port in the side of the fittings and screwed in a push lock style air line fitting and polyethylene tubing. This is positioned so that naturally not a lot if any water enter the tube. And even if it did I took care of that too.


Then to route the other end of the hose to the dump pipe


Then I drill and taped another 1/4” NPT port by the dump pipe so this is an enclosed tube to the drain system and outside the compartment so I can get to it with the silicone and blow it out for freeze protection.


Now to do the silicone treatment, I unhook the tube, spray in the pipe, then use compressed air to blow it up into the slider valve. I work the valve a few times, spray some more then stick the hose back on. Works good.




I do a similar thing with the main black tank valve just I use a piece of removable tubing I shove up in the dump pipe and spray it with.


The next upgrade was the fresh tank suction port and drain valve. This is what was there to start with. The fresh tank suction port was in the side of the tank which sucks in air bubbles when there is still over 1” of water left and that darn little itty bitty drain hose that takes over an hour to drain the fresh tank when sanitizing the system.


The drain hose would freeze, in my opinion, and it had to go anyway for capacity reasons. I installed a frost free drain spout to get the shutoff inside the compartment and I converted the suction port to the bottom low point of the tank so I can draw water down to the last quart before the pump looses prime. I did this same upgrade on my prior T2499. The forst free spout is the older non anti siphon one so gravity will drain the water out. It was about $10 at Menards, an import.




With the cover on. I cap off the drain spout to keep road dirt out.


Next was the fresh tank bottom. I raised it up to get some drain height, get the low point sump in the tank up higher, get the tank bottom away from the cover with some more insulation, and more so to keep the tank bottom away from the metal strapping. Those tank base bars being so close to the tank have sent accelerated rusting from tank condensation on my T2499 prior to repainting them. Here I can help keep the tank more isolated from sweating in the first place and add a level of insulation. By lifting the tank 1” I did have to deal with the brackets that keep the tank from sliding left to right. I did not take good pics of those brackets but it is not much more then 1/4” flat bar bolted in to keep the tank in place. Sunline used a thin piece of aluminum angle to hold the tank in place. Actually the alum anlge and my 1/4" bar does have parts of it showing in this pic


I also added a remote temperature sensor in the compartment so I can tell what is going on down there. No where could I find anyone to tell me what these enclosed tank type options are good for in temperature on any brand TT so I had to prove it to myself. More on this later but here is the sensor


Then came making the insulation package better. I found at Lowes http://www.reflectixinc.com/ Reflectix. Here is the Lowes link Reflectix at Lowes

And this is alum foil bonded to 2 layers of bubble wrap. It can hold up to moisture and it really helps reflect heat. I lined the plastic corrugated bottom cover with this. As I knelt on it putting it on the cover, I could fell my body heat almost immediately insulated verse just kneeling on the black plastic sheet.




Here it is sandwiched up against the TT bottom. I may yet make an edging strip to go around this to keep road stuff from reaching that edge, but no other TT maker does that and the road dirt really does not seem to get up to this area much. For now that is a spring project.


I had to also enclosed the dump pipe with 2” foam board as Sunline left this wide open. Why, I really do not know but leaving those 2 large triangle holes open did not add up to me to keep cold out. I will in the future put a thin alum flashing strip over this area and paint it.


I also used a can of “Stuff” gap and crack filler spray foam insulation to seal up the cracks in the enclosure or where ever large holes where. I still need to trim the globs with a knife and paint them black once the weather allows. The enclosure is not 100% air tight, there are still air gap looses, I would estimate it is 98% closed up. So any little moisture vapor can still escape if there is any.

Next was the test and last weekend provided a perfect test. We camped, dry, and the Night temps dropped to 11 deg F. Burr… I jury rigged the Cyberdyne 12 volt temp gage so I can view it inside. I will later mount it in this storage area by the water pump as that is the power feed I tapped into. This meter also has hi and lo memory recall so I could find the highest and lowest it ever went.


Here it is just giving a reading.


Now to the data: I was happy with the results.

Outside air temp: 11 deg F
Camper inside temp: 68 F (Hunter digital furnace T stat set to this)
Lowest tank compartment over night: 40 F
Highest tank compartment over night: 78 F

Tank compartment temp in middle of afternoon before I turned on furnace: 41F, (outside = 30F)

The radiant heat off the furnace ducts shocked me that it went so high. Seeing temp in the 60’s and 70’s was unexpected. And seeing it only get down to 40F made me a happy camper with it being 11F outside….

I did not have any radiant heat from gray water from dish washing/shower to add to the space so I do not know yet what that will gain. And I know there are still fine holes in the compartment where heat will leak out of plus the lack of very tight insulation. But I know feel I have a working solution that will give me “extended season” and not have to worrying I’m going to break a tank. When we winter camp, it needs to get above freezing at least during the day and at night it can go into the single digits and for me this is low enough.

I will have to fill up fresh water at the camp ground or do test of the space for heat loose from towing. Have not done that yet. Heat at home before towing, turn furnace off, then tow, then get to camp, read temps and see what I have. However most of our winter camping are in the 1 1/2 hours away from home or less and my fresh tank should not freeze from a 60 degree water fill temp in that short a time or it is way to cold for us to go camping anyway….

Hope this helps some others. I will report more as I learn it.

Happy winter camping

John

[EMD_Driver]

Originally Posted by JohnB

Hope this helps some others. I will report more as I learn it.


John

Any updates yet John?

[JohnB]

Hi Gary,

Well.... I think I have had a full fledged "senior moment"... I forgot I left this sort of open ended.

Since the post in 2008, (man where does time go...) we have winter camped often with this year being the 1st where we were able to go every month as the weather was so mild. The enclosed tanks upgrade and the addition of the temp sensor to tell me what is really going on down there has worked out well.

I also did some other winter camping upgrades, unhooked and insulated the outside shower, made a insulation cover for the shore power cord, did the P trap of the shower, did the HW heater drain hose, see here for more and the links. http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f6...ing-13116.html

We cheat a little when winter camping. I will not fill up the camper with water until we are ready to travel. And camp is only 30 minutes away. We pre-warm the camper which heats the tank compartment. The tow to camp is generally at freezing or above. When I get to camp the compartment is still above freezing as the water itself is at least 50F. Then the furnace comes on once at camp and I have no worries from then forward.

During the days temp rise above freezing and at night can get real far down. 10F is common. I feel confident I will not have an issue from over night cold. On breaking camp days I have waited until 12:00 noon to 1:00PM before we head to the dump station. It is at least above freezing when I dump. Sometimes not a lot, but still above. The dump valves being inside the compartment really helps as I do not have to deal with them outside.

As a precaution I bring 2 extra gallons of pink antifreeze. If I run into a problem I can pour antifreeze in the black and gray tank along with the P traps at camp and drain the fresh tank. This have never come up yet but I am prepared if I need to.

While during the day and night we do use the electric heaters (1 ceramic and 1 oil filled electric, also separate 12 awg power cable to run 1) and at night I set the furnace to 63 as it does run a few times over the night and I need it to. During the day it may only kick on once or twice pending the wind.

The shrink wrap on the windows is a big deal with the amount of glass I have (16 windows) and the entire back is all windows. The heat loss and sweat wet is a problem you have to deal with. The shrink wrap is not perfect but it is light years ahead of not having it. Storm windows is a future project.

This year I added a dehumidifier to the mix and a moisture gage (relative humidity) to figure out where I am at. It helps and we already vent a lot where there is no condensation on the windows or walls but yet still there is excess moisture as the dehumidifier is pulling it out of the air. I can tell on Friday night it pulled more water then Saturday. The wood, the sofa etc all have some kind of moisture in them. We run this at night and turn it off during most of the day. At night it is white noise at the opposite end of the camper. During the day it is right next to my ear sitting in the swivel rocker so it goes off.

After each trip I blow out all the lines, have a separate quick blow out setup, and put new antifreeze in the traps. I drain the fresh tank before breaking camp and the HW heater.

As of now, the upgrades have allowed us to winter camp with full water systems for any time it is good enough for us to go camping in the winter months. Since we live in central Ohio this is doable for us. If we lived up near Cleveland where the snow is blowing a lot, the snow stops us from going regardless of cold.

For us to winter camp with the camper, it needs to be at or above freezing during the day, no snow in the forecast and little to no snow on the ground. I do not want to tow in the snow. Night time can go to 0F if it decides too.

I mention this as these are the conditions I tested these upgrades under. This is not a true 4 season Arctic Package like an Arctic Fox or a NUWA has but has for sure let us go out with full water services where before we went dry. I have yet to find any manufacturer to give actual data on their "extended season" package which is what Sunline did with the enclosed tank system of this TT. So far this is the only model I know of that in a TT has the enclosed tanks. Not all T310SR's do but several have. There may have been other models, just I have not been able to find them, yet anyway. Hopefully others who have them will let us know. The 5er's seemed to get the enclosed tank option.

Hope this helps.

John