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Old 08-29-2020, 09:11 AM   #41
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Hi John.
I got the rest of the measurements. The straight edge measurements of the slide side view show that the slide itself is high by 1/4 inch at the front and an 1/8 at the rear. I put the measurements on the photos you provided.

Roger
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Old 08-30-2020, 10:16 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger66ogden View Post
snip...

I can tell you that I checked the rollers both inner and outer and there is no noticable side to side or up and down movement in them. They also roll "spin" very smoothly like a bearing should.
Hi Roger,

I have some info I want to share and you confirm before we get into adjusting.

1. Let's start with the slide arm rollers. In the response above you checked some rollers and they were all good. I need to confirm you checked all 3 sets of rollers on both slide arms. See this marked up pic of the Barker slide drive.



Did you check set A, B & C?

Did you jack up (if needed) the inner arm that moves with the slide to see if the bearings/bushings had excessive play in them? You would have to position the jack (again if needed) to take the pressure off the roller and each area the jack placement would be different. Excessive is in the 0.03" play area which would be worn on bronze bushing and if a actual bearing, something is wrong with the bearing.

If any of those rollers have excess wear, they need to be addressed before we adjust anything. If you did check all 3 sets of them and they are good, then we need to look elsewhere for the problem.

2. Next are these dimensions.


The rear outside is a little low at 4.75" but that does not explain the issues inside the camper. We will keep this in mind though as we work through this.

If the slide arm rollers listed above in check 1 are good, then there is 0.110" difference on the "inside" dimensions between the front and rear roller arms to the bottom of the slide floor. (4.89 - 4.78 = 0.110) That is close to 1/8".

The slide arm housing is welded to the camper frame and is non adjustable. If they welded in the arm housing by 1/8" off, that's a lot in my opinion for something this critical, but the frame welders have goofed before. You can check if it is off that much by measuring from the top of the arm outer tube to the bottom of the top I beam flange. If front and back is 1/32 to 1/16" difference, then OK it's not that bad.


2A. By the pictures (which may be tricking us) with the slide fully out, and looking up under the slide outside, it appears the slide floor is resting on the camper floor with no gap or very little. Is there no gap between the slide floor and the camper floor on both front and rear by the slide arm area? It could be there is no gap and no gap can be OK. BUT if the one end is touching and the other end has close to 1/8" air gap, then this may point to rollers embedded in the floor under the slide have an issue. Have a look.

I am not sure if Sunline installed the floor rollers like what is on the Barker drawing. When they designed the flush floor system, (next generation slide) the slide literally slides on a metal trough in the camper floor system. The black plastic membrane is under pressure at the contact points. It is not beyond imagine Sunline did something similar with the Barker slide drive system versus using the rollers.

If the answer to question 2A comes out, dead flush on one end and 1/8" air gap on the other end of the bottom of the slide floor to the camper floor, then a floor roller may have a bearing shot and the floor dropped down. If both ends are the same, well then the floor rollers have a good chance they are OK and we move on to the next thing. Have a look at this if you can.

If you want to check and see if rollers actually exist or one is bad, there is a way to lift up the slide about 1/8 - 1/4" and with a flash light peak in and see the floor rollers. With the slide extended full out, use a jack and a 4 x 4 etc. under the end wall, about in the middle of the slide floor width. You only want to jack at a wall, never in the open area, the heavy support is all at the walls. See pic below. Carefully lift the slide 1/8" to 1/4" while watching the gap at the floor. You can only go up until the slide roof hits the camper slide wall flange or the play in the slide arms stops you. Then with a flashlight look under the slide floor/camper floor gap for rollers.


3. Here is the update cross section view. Please make sure these dimensions are correct.


What seems odd is the 1/2" difference outside from the slide flanges to the camper wall flanges when inside the camper, Surface A is only 0.010" different on the front and rear. That may be the way it is, and is so OK. Please confirm.

Look this over, report back and then we are going to start adjusting. One does not really want to start adjusting on a slide until they understand all or as much as they can, what is going on.

Hope this helps.

John
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Old 08-30-2020, 05:49 PM   #43
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Hi John
Our camper only has rollers A and C.
There is an equal gap between the bottom of the slide floor and the frame opening. There is a wiper seal that runs the length of the slide that makes the floor look like it is touching.

I will check the other measurements tomorrow. Was visiting the grandson today which took priority 😁

Roger
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Old 08-31-2020, 07:42 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger66ogden View Post
There is an equal gap between the bottom of the slide floor and the frame opening. There is a wiper seal that runs the length of the slide that makes the floor look like it is touching.
Hi Roger,

No worries on getting back to me. Grandson duty always take first place!

While you are out checking today,

1. Curious, approx what is the dimension of the equal gap between the bottom of the slide floor and the camper wall frame opening? And was the slide fully open or closed when you took the dimension? If the slide was closed or very close to closed, then this is good the gap is equal. If the slide was fully out, h'mm OK good to know. If you can bring the slide to about 6 to 12" of being extended out, what is the gap? (if you can get in to see it) The slide room will flex in almost any direction when the slide is fully extended. But not so much in this gap area when the slide if very close to almost fully in.

If there is a gap between the bottom of the slide room floor and the camper wall opening, this helps point to Sunline either has a floor rollers or some form of plastic/metal wear strip for the slide bottom to ride on.

2. With the slide fully closed up tight to the camper as the motor shuts it off, look at the front and rear ends of the slide vertically at the rubber seal flange area. Look if the black rubber seal compression is close to equal front and rear. If the seal gets covered up with the slide flanges, see the difference in the metal slide room flanges to the camper wall opening flanges. Many times at the bottom of the slide, the compression can be very tight and at the top is can be less approx 1/8" - 3/16" and can be normal as long as the seal compression is good. The rack and opinion drive is at the bottom pulls the bottom tight, the top can flex open some as the entire slide room can flex out at the top.

What you do not want to see, is one end of the slide is sticking out 1/4 to 1/2" then the other end with the slide retracted in. Or even both ends stick out much past the wall flanges. Take a few pics of the slide flange are at the front and rear with the slide closed trying to show the compression.

Thanks

John
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Old 08-31-2020, 11:05 AM   #45
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Hi John.

The slide rails to frame measurement difference is less than .016 also I noticed something that may help in our figuring out what is going on. At the rear of the slide I can stick a good part of my hand between the camper floor and the underneath of the slide floor. On the front I can't even get my finger tips between the two. Is it possible that the 1/4 inch misalignment where the siding is higher on the front cause this?Also I took measurements of the slide seals when closed and then I measured the distance. The rear is closed much further.

Roger
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Old 08-31-2020, 11:22 AM   #46
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The pictures showing my hand is when the slide is closed. I could not see any rollers between the camper floor and the slide floor like you told me to check but it almost seems like there has to be.
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Old 08-31-2020, 01:14 PM   #47
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John
This is what I see between the slide floor and the camper. It appears to be a metal slide that the barrier material slides on.

Roger
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Old 08-31-2020, 01:42 PM   #48
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John
You will not believe what I just discovered. I was going to gather the tools to do the adjustments prior to your instructions and the front slide arm to slide bolt nuts are loose! It's a wonder they didn't spin off on their own. I should have known when I seen the difference in colors on the plate that the bottom nut tightens against.

Roger
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Old 08-31-2020, 06:14 PM   #49
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Roger,

I just sent you a PM.

Thanks

John
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Old 08-31-2020, 06:18 PM   #50
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Here's a picture of the nuts that I was talking about in the previous post
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Old 09-01-2020, 10:39 PM   #51
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Hi Roger,

Recapping what we talked about on the setting process.

Notes:

1. When making slide adjustments, measure/mark where you are starting from so you can always go back to that location if needed.
2. When adjusting the slide, go in small increments and creep up on a total adjustment. Sometimes, a little can go a long way.

Step 1. Using this sketch as a guide, we will start with adjusting the slide room for full extension
(slidee is out) but adjusting the end of stroke stop all-thread rod.

Loosen the double nuts on the inside of the frame. Since we have the potential to move the slide outwards 1 1/2”, we will start with creating 1/4" move increments. Back off the double nuts to create 1/4” more travel.


The goal is to creep up on letting the slide go out farther to close up some of the large gaps at surface A and the wall. The need is, do not bottom out hard against the wall with surface A at the bottom. The rack and pinion drive is very powerful and can can break the wall loose if over compressing over a long time. Being 1/16” to 1/8” away at the bottom is good. Over compression at the bottom is bad. The top of the slide will touch the wall, and that is OK. (or it will bottom out on the rubber seals and not touch the wall)

The front top of the slide has a 0.63” gap from the wall. The rear top is 1.70” gap. The bottom on the front and rear is close to 1.50” gap. Look at each of these areas after you make your first 1/4” move out. The gap at all locations should change. See if 1/4" more travel = 1/4” inside less gap. We are trying to close up the 1.50” gap to be 1/16” to 1/8” of Surface A to the wall. Check both the front and rear of the slide.

Note: The extra thick slide rubber seals you have may stop the slide movement before you get to the wall with Surface A. If the motor stalls out with full seal compression, and you have not reached the wall at the bottom, then the seals are the stopping point and not the wall. If you do stall out with the seals, do a full compression move then back off the adjustment 1/8” – 1/4" so the all-thread nuts stop the movement and not the seals. If the seals end up stopping the motion, then that is going to be all you can get. Tweak in 1/4" increments until you see what is happening. You can go less or slightly more as needed.

As soon as the top front gap (0.063”) touches the wall, the entire slide will start to twist and straighten out. The rear 1.70” at the top may get smaller faster than before the top front touches. So be aware this may happen. You may not get the rear to be as good as the front.

Step 2. After you have completed the slide extension stops adjustment, then work on the issue of the height of the slide floor to the camper floor when the slide is all the way in. First, double-check that the rear of the slide still has a large air space between the bottom of the slide and the floor with all the extension adjustments. See is the front is still rubbing hard on the carpet where you could not get a finger under and the rear has a large gap. This condition is not good long term, and we need to see if we can reduce the large air gap at the back and lessen the hard carpet press at the front.

NOTE: Do not step in the slide room when the slide is in with a large gap at under the slide floor. There is no support under the slide floor with a large gap. Some Sunline members have broken the dinette free from the wall stepping in the slide when the slide was retracted with no support under the slide floor. More on this after, if you need to, you can make a rug board spacer and stick it under the slide in the center to fill the gap.

You are now going to adjust the large all-thread rods that change the outside slide wall height—the ones in this pic.


This adjustment will be a trial and error adjustment in very small increments. Since we cannot change the distance of the rack arm at the camper (it is welded in place), we can only tweak the height of the floor at the end of the arm with the all-thread at the wall area. On some flush floor slides by other brands, the setup is to have the outside 1/8” higher than the inside. BUT, that will/may not work in this case, as I think Sunline may have never set it up that way by looking at what you have.

Here is the concept of adjusting. Lowering the outside adjustment will affect the parallelism of Surface A to the wall inside the camper when the slide is extended. Lowering will bring the top of the slide closer to the wall when the slide is extended. But, lowering the outside adjustment will help lift the slide floor off the carpet when the slide retracts. You have to tweak this in small increments to create a happy medium between the slide being out and the slide being in. One adjustment affects the other.

Since the front is rubbing the carpet real hard, I would start with lowering the front 1/32” - 1/16” max. at the slide arm outside adjustment. This will help relieve some of the carpet pressure. Check inside and see how it goes. There will be a point you went too low.

After you make that first tweak at the front, go to the rear arm. Raise the arm the same 1/32” to 1/16” and go inside and see how it is lowering the floor closer to the carpet.

Also, keep a look at the wall to Surface A parallelism when the slide is full out. If we start creating a parallelism issue a lot worse, we need to regroup. I would say you can tweak the back to being up to 1/8” higher then the inside which is at 4.78". May not want to go more than that until we see how this goes. When you adjust the rear arm area up, there a chance it will lower the front down some too. Watch for it.

If you end up with a large enough gap between the carpet and the bottom of the slide floor we cannot adjust out, we need to regroup. Once you can define how big that gap is at the end of adjusting, it is unknown how large is too large, and it needs a shim. And if needed, you create a transport/towing rug board shim to go under the slide for support in case someone steps inside.

I hope this helps and let us know how it goes.

John
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Old 09-06-2020, 02:13 PM   #52
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Hi John. Finally got to adjust the stop rod. I initially adjusted in 1/4 increments until I got from 9 1/2 inches to 8 1/4 inches of rod left extending past the jamb nut. I ended up moving back a 1/4 to 8 1/2 inches because my seals (when viewed from outside) at the bottom were compressed a little to tightly. The room itself is still at an angle with about the same percent difference between the two ends as when I started. I am thinking that I may have to adjust the rear end out separate from the front that 3/4 to one inch that it is off. I will tackle the large 1 1/2 nut adjustments tomorrow.
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Old 09-07-2020, 10:30 AM   #53
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It looks like you took out 1" of the problem out. Curious on the end of arm adjustments how this comes out.
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Old 09-16-2020, 08:00 PM   #54
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Hi John haven't got to adjust anything else. My sister-in-law lost a very hard fought battle against cancer on the 10th. I promise I won't leave the camper like it is and will post as I make adjustments.

Roger
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Old 09-17-2020, 09:55 AM   #55
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Hi Roger,

So sorry to hear about your sister in law. Our thought and prayers go out to you and your family.

No worries on the camper.

John
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Old 04-11-2021, 03:46 PM   #56
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Hi John.

I finally got my slide adjusted yesterday. I did all of the adjustments to the rear slide rail. I turn the top 1 1/2 nuts up about an 1/8 of an inch which dropped the inside floor to just above the carpet on the inside. It still seemed to be binding and I realized the rear of the slide was tracking behind the front of the slide. So I got underneath and slid the gear off the square shaft and manual moved the rear of the slide out and slid the gear back into place which allows the slide to move much easier and opens fully now in the front and back plus seals completely when closed.
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Old 04-11-2021, 09:18 PM   #57
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Excellent work Roger! Glad it all worked out.

Happy camping this season.

Thanks for reporting back.

John
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