Slide room adjustments

EMD_Driver · 08-31-2009, 01:49 PM

Forgive me if this has already been discussed, my Blackberry has issues with the forum search. I was wondering if there are any adjustments that can be made to the slide, so that it is even with the TT when fully closed. Our appears to be open more in two opposite corners. I will get pics tonight, since the slide is closed already.

We are plannin on camping this weekend and thought it might be a good time to adjust it, if it's even possible.

Gary

MACK C-85 · 08-31-2009, 02:13 PM

They can be adjusted, unfortunately I had mine done by a local repair guy and wasn't close enough by to see how he adjusted it. Our front lower corner was sticking out about an inch (from the side when closed) and the whole box was out of square about 1/2". Now it is square in the opening and is flat against the seals (when closed).

The way he expained it to me there are jam nuts near the end of the slides that once you loosen them you can move the "box" on the slides. From what I did see there was a lot of trial and error involved.

I wanted to let you know they can be adjusted, hopefully, someone with better instructions will pop up.

264SRinPA · 08-31-2009, 02:53 PM

Yes Gary they are adjustable. I adjusted ours myself. One side didn't close as tight as the other side. There is an up and down adjustment and an in and out adjustment. Sounds like you only need the in and out. Go to this web page and click on "ELECTRIC SLIDEOUT" then look for the info for the adjustment.
http://www.lci1.com/index.php?option...uals&Itemid=66
If you have any questions just ask.[/u]

**JohnB** · 08-31-2009, 08:40 PM

Mike

Since you have been thru this before, I have not yet, on this PDF http://www.lci1.com/OwnersManuals/Sl...ideout-Web.pdf

On page 11 it talks about the stop can for the total IN stop position. That is the powered side.

On page 14 it talks about adjusting/sync’ing the IN position on the passive tube, the non powered one. Which looks like slots. Loosen up the 2 bolts, push pull that side of the slide to the stop location.

Well I guess it may depend on which side is not sealing tight. If it power tube side, then the stop can brings it in closer, but would you have to loosen the passive side to not over squeeze that side when adjusting the stop can?

Also I’m assuming, if you are having the outside hang out when the slide is retracted, then when the slide is extended out, there must also be a gap or a twist in the slide on the inside wall of the TT. Yes/no or never noticed?

The question I guess is, if we adjust the passive side for a tight retract, I would think that adjustment would interact with the fully extended stop position too on that side. Does it? Or has the things slipped and by adjusting the passive side it put that side back in the right relationship both in and out? The slide has to be built true on both left and right sides or this will never work right.

I do not recall seeing any electric limit switches on the slide to stop travel. Ours on the way out stops when the slide hits the wall and the slide mechanics ratchets for the full out load torque. Then take finger off switch. On the way in, ours does not ratchet, it just squeezes up tight and the motor stops. Then take finger off switch. I think the overload clutch on the way out is if you hit a tree or something it overloads verses self destruct. Does your work this way too?

Trying to learn here in advance of having to do this.

Gary, look for witness marks. If something loosened up, then putting it back to the original rust marks may bring it back in. That was one tip the slide mechanic at the dealer as part of my PDI told me. In fact the entire PDI was for him to go over the slide. However we never talked on one side hanging out.

Good luck, take pics and let us know how it goes.

John

EMD_Driver · 09-06-2009, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnB

Well I guess it may depend on which side is not sealing tight. If it power tube side, then the stop can brings it in closer, but would you have to loosen the passive side to not over squeeze that side when adjusting the stop can?

Also I’m assuming, if you are having the outside hang out when the slide is retracted, then when the slide is extended out, there must also be a gap or a twist in the slide on the inside wall of the TT. Yes/no or never noticed?

The question I guess is, if we adjust the passive side for a tight retract, I would think that adjustment would interact with the fully extended stop position too on that side. Does it? Or has the things slipped and by adjusting the passive side it put that side back in the right relationship both in and out? The slide has to be built true on both left and right sides or this will never work right.

I do not recall seeing any electric limit switches on the slide to stop travel. Ours on the way out stops when the slide hits the wall and the slide mechanics ratchets for the full out load torque. Then take finger off switch. On the way in, ours does not ratchet, it just squeezes up tight and the motor stops. Then take finger off switch. I think the overload clutch on the way out is if you hit a tree or something it overloads verses self destruct. Does your work this way too?

Trying to learn here in advance of having to do this.

Gary, look for witness marks. If something loosened up, then putting it back to the original rust marks may bring it back in. That was one tip the slide mechanic at the dealer as part of my PDI told me. In fact the entire PDI was for him to go over the slide. However we never talked on one side hanging out.

Good luck, take pics and let us know how it goes.

John

John,
Our slide's bottom rear corner and upper front corner both stick out, when the slide is retracted. It is not much, but is very noticeable. I believe it to be around 1/4". When the slide is extended, the rear corner is much tighter to the wall, than the front corner. I hurt my hip this morning, so getting some exact measurements will have to wait till later.

We managed to get a few mods done yesterday and pics will be forthcoming..

**JohnB** · 09-07-2009, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EMD_Driver

Our slide's bottom rear corner and upper front corner both stick out, when the slide is retracted. It is not much, but is very noticeable. I believe it to be around 1/4". When the slide is extended, the rear corner is much tighter to the wall, than the front corner. I hurt my hip this morning, so getting some exact measurements will have to wait till later.

Gary

First off, hope you fell better. Hurt your hip, oh boy. Wish you the best and take it easy.

Now to the slide.

Recapping your comments.

Rear bottom and top front corner stick out when retracted.

When extended, rear bottom is tighter then top front.

That "sounds" like maybe a twist in the TT?? OK question, is the TT level and plumb when in the condition?

The next thing is well where does one exactly declare level and plumb to be taken at?

I know on mine the 10" I beam frame has some small since wave effect to it. The A frame is not exactly welded on dead true to the main frame. So using the A frame is not always a good place to level off of. I have a concrete pad by my building and the concrete is fairly true. If I pick a point, bottom of frame to ground, at the front just behind the main header, then at the front spring hanger, then the rear spring hanger, then the back by the rear wall, you can see the wave in the tape measure distance to the ground. If you pull a string or thin MIG weld wire down the length of the frame you can see it too.

The tongue jack is holding up the front, wheels holding up that location. The rear aft of the wheels has some sag and so does the span from front axle to front main header.

I also have some left to right twist in the main frame. If I jack up the TT and put it up on 4 jack stands by the front and rear hangers and level out the tongue, 1 of the stands is not touching. In my case, always the one by the rear door is high.

What I am seeing is I’m sure in most every modern day TT. The T2499 had it and so does the T310SR. The thing is made to flex and keeping a span that long dead true takes a lot more rigidity then we have in these TT’s.

Now can you adjust out of your problem? Well don’t know until you can find out the root cause of the issue.

We where out camping this weekend and I was looking at mine. If you on the inside to the wooden frame you see in relation to the opening in the wall for the slide, the 2 up and down are not parallel. Mine is out a lot. Maybe a good ½ to ¾”. What I’m off in the back, the front follows it. Sort of like the hole in the camper is a parallelogram to the slide. Or visa versa. Did not dig to find out which one was right. A tape measure doing cross diagonal, lower left to top right and lower right to top left will show if it is dead square which I highly doubt. Nor does it really have to be. The seals for sure take up all the error in my case. On the outside of the camper, the slide outer frame flange fits into the recessed TT frame out that gives the appearance of being parallel. So it had to be built that way. What I see that loogs good on the outside, is off on the inside.

Mike may be able to shed some light on this as he has adjusted his. Mine works well, just exact fitting precision is not in a TT slide or they use “industry standards” that have a different tolerance of precision that is.

H’mm if you take a 4 foot level up the side of the camper both front and back by the ends of the slide, see how much the level has to move to create plumb. Do both the camper itself and the slide. This may show some of the problem areas. While I doubt they will be plumb, you can use the level to determine how parallel the camper and slide are in relation to each other.

Good luck

John

264SRinPA · 09-09-2009, 04:30 PM

Bottom rear and top front corners sticking out doesn't sound like an easy fix. My slide was an easy adjustment as it was only one side sticking out. As long as it's sealing against the gasket, I think I would leave it alone.