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Old 04-03-2018, 05:10 PM   #1
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Manual slide override 2004 T280-SR

Hello! I am in desperate need of help please.

I own a newly purchased (used) 2004 TS280-SR and my slide is stuck out. The slide motor underneath is getting hot and it doesn’t want to come back in although it has battery power and it’s also plugged up.

How do I manually override the slide motor it to bring the slide back in?

And secondly, what motor do I need to purchase to replace the old one? It doesn’t have a hydraulic system. Just the one motor.

I greatly appreciate your time and assistance!
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Old 04-04-2018, 08:03 AM   #2
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I may be able to help as I have your same slide system on my T310SR.

Trying to get some more info before I start typing down the wrong road of the problem.

1. How long has the slide be extended out? A week, a few months, a year or more? Need to know more about how stuck the slide is.

2. When you use the slide motor and it is getting hot, do you hear a ratcheting, clunk clunk clunk when you press the slide button? That would be the overload clutch for the motor.

3. Has the slide moved in any amount? Try to describe in inches. 0 inches, 2 inches, 12 inches etc.

4. Approx. how many times have you tried to pull it in with the motor? 1 to 2 times, 6 to 10 times etc. I am trying to get a hanlde on how stuck the slide is.

There is a way to crank the slide in by hand however it has to be done very cautiously. Some folks have twisted off the entire slide drive doing it by hand on a slide that was stuck. The manual drive has no clutch on it and the system is so geared down to work off a small motor the power you can create by the hand crank can me 20 to 30 times stronger than the motor can provide and things can break if the slide is jammed.

Tell us more on how this problem came to happen. We need to help you free up the jammed slide before you start trying to bring it in with the motor or the manual hand crank.

Many times the slide can be stuck "in" sitting from sitting over the winter as the slide seals get stuck. The key in that case it to help break free the stuck seals first. But yours may be a different problem and need to know more about how the problem came to be before we can help better.

Are you stuck in a campground trying to leave or is the camper at home and you are trying to get it going for the season?

Hope this helps

John
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Old 04-05-2018, 04:12 PM   #3
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Hi John. Thanks for your response. The slide has been out for about a month. We had it in the day I made his post, but when we let it back it, it won’t come back in.

We hear clunk clunk clunk noise and it has moved maybe two inches in.

We are not camping thankfully. We had a pad built for it and we are trying to move it from my driveway to the new parking pad.

What now?? Lol


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Old 04-05-2018, 04:25 PM   #4
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I really wish I could tell what model motor is on this 2004 TS280. We have two fully charged batteries. Is there a fuse somewhere besides in the power converter? We just replaced that unit so I doubt the converter is the issue. This is so frustrating.


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Old 04-05-2018, 04:27 PM   #5
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Old 04-05-2018, 04:42 PM   #6
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Ok now the slide is in....weird. What could the issue be? Why wouldn’t it go in and then after multiple tries it went in. Could it be the wall switch maybe?


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Old 04-05-2018, 08:19 PM   #7
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Hi Lisa

Glad you have the slide in. I am offline other then a phone until Monday. I can then get to all my info to help better

Please take more pics of the slide drive under the camper and post before then. Something looks really different on yours

There is no fuse. There is a 30 amp self resetting circuit breaker in the junction box behind the battery on the camper frame header. If the motor has power then no need to get into that junction box. I will post pics next week what it looks like inside and how to get the screws out.

The switch when it goes bad then nothing on the motor works generally meaning no motor movement it clunking of the clutch.

Your slide seals may need to be lubed. I use 303 aerospace UV protectant on them.

Be back on Monday

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Old 04-10-2018, 06:24 PM   #8
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Hi Lisa,

I'm back home for a short while and have better access to my information.

A key point in this mystery for you. I know you were thinking this may be the motor as the problem or the wall switch but here are a few things to help narrow this down.

You stated when the problem first started, you did hear a clunk, clunk, clunk when the slide motor was started and you tried to bring the slide in. The clunk is the overload clutch tripping. This happens when too much load is put on the slide, the clutch trips to save the motor system. And you said the motor was getting warm after trying this a few times which supports the motor was working just the slide not moving.

Basically explaining this, something was creating more load when trying to bring the slide in then the motor can handle so the clutch tripped. This is normal, the motor is working right. The problem is the slide is creating too much drag for the motor to pull it in.

You also stated the slide had been extended for about a month. And after several attempts the slide did move about 2" then stopped. These symptoms point to excess drag on the slide room that the motor cannot pull in.

This excess drag often times comes from slide seals that are stuck or very dry and the friction is very high. The best way to prevent this excess drag is to lube the slide seals regularly. Every few months. The 2 sides and the long top seal, both inside and out need to be lubed. Spay the lube on a rag and then wipe it on if needed to not make a mess. You can use liquid silicone spray on the seals as it will help on the high friction and not affect the rubber. Or the RV stores have "Slide Lube" which is similar.

I use 303 Aerospace UV protectant as slide lube. This helps prevent the seals from drying out with exposed to the suns rays. They remain more flexible and not so sticky.

If you find the slide stuck out or stuck in, first is to make sure that nothing has fallen into the slide travel path blocking it. Next is to "help" it break free from being stuck. You first press the extend or retract button and "stop" pressing when the clutch trips or nothing moves. Do not reverse the slide, leave the pushing pressure on.

On a slide that will not move "out", (it is stuck in) then push/rock the top of the slide room wall (not the bottom). Once it moves some amount at the top, then the slide seals are starting to break free. Then try the motor again. It may take a few times of this to break it free.

On a slide that is stuck "out", (will not move at all in) the clutch may trip instantly when trying to move it in. This is a little harder to unstick but you do the same thing. Reach up as high as you can (not down low) and push/rock the slide outside trying to get to go in. Once there is some rocking movement, then try the motor again.

If in either stuck situation if the slide is really trying to move and it is very hard, try the liquid silicone spray on the seals. You may have by hand pull the rubber slide flap back to get the silicone behind it between the rubber and the slide of the slide. Even if you do the 2 end walls and not the long top seal, you greatly lowered the friction.

Slides that have not been regularly lubed with a UV protectant of some kind can get stuck in 1 to 6 months time of not being used.

To sort out, is it stuck or is it the motor? If the motor has turned and grunted at least or the clutch trips, then the motor and the wall switch is working. This then points to stuck slide seals or something mechanically stuck in the travel path. Look for something stuck in the slide travel path first.

If the "first time" you try the slide and the motor does not move at all, nothing, then this points to a problem in the motor system. The 2004's have a 30 amp self resetting circuit breaker in the front header junction box to protect the slide motor. If you try the motor one too many times and it heats up, the breaker will trip. Then it takes time to cool down and self reset to try it again. How long, maybe 5 to 10 minutes. If you were trying a lot and it stopped, then worked later that could be the self resetting circuit breaker that tripped and then reset.

The pic of your slide motor does not seem to be what I would expect in a 2004 T-280SR super slide (couch and dinette slide) front kitchen camper. Can you take some more pics of the slide drive system under the camper? I can then for the future help you sort out what brand motor drive you have if you even need one. Also look on the VIN sticker on the front left of the camper for a "Build date". You might have a real early T-280SR and they uses the Barker system and not the Lippert system that the later ones have.

See this post on a 2004 T-280SR that the slide drive pins were sheared off using the manual hand crank on a slide that was stuck. It shows the slide drive. Try and get similar pics of yours. http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...ins-10564.html

Hope this helps

John
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Old 04-10-2018, 06:39 PM   #9
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Lisa,

The 30 amp self resetting slide circuit breaker is inside this front junction box on your 2004 camper. Look behind the battery area.

The box outside


The box inside


The self resetting circuit breaker. The breaker with the 2 black wires is for the slide. The large red wired one is to protect the main camper power.


If you ever want to try and get into that junction box, ask here first so you do not get frustrated and end up breaking it trying to get in. Dirt gets in the screw holes making it very difficult to get the screws out.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 04-11-2018, 03:47 AM   #10
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Hi John! You are fantastic and a wealth of valuable information so thank you very much! We have not had cooperative weather here lately coupled with some illness. However; hubby will get out there and take some more photos of he slide and I’ll get them posted here soon. We fortunately finally got he slide to come in and it’s going to stay there until we can get the seals changed as we purchased new seals recently. The old ones were less than desireable.

I’ll be back to you soon! Thank you again. I always know I can count on you to get the most informed responses.
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Old 04-11-2018, 09:12 AM   #11
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Thank you Lisa for the good words. Glad to help.

Another thing which may cause more drag on the slide is the rack and pinion gearing system. There are nylon pads to help stop metal on metal contact on the slide arms that do not need lube, however the gearing and the bronze bushings in the pinion shafts can benefit from it. There is a long standing debate to lube to not to lube on the Lippert system however the new Lippert slide manuals now talk about lubing certain parts of the system where the old manuals never did. I started lubing mine a long time ago and it really helps. But.... not all slide drives are mounted or made the same so we need to see which one you have.

Have your husband look at those areas. Odds are high they may be very dry and rusted. Once I can see exactly which slide drive system you have, we can post pics and how to help lower the drag from the slide mechanism system.

Thanks

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Old 04-14-2018, 05:43 AM   #12
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Always lube the it a couple of times a season and this will help with operation of the slide.
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Old 07-06-2021, 07:31 AM   #13
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Lisa,

The 30 amp self resetting slide circuit breaker is inside this front junction box on your 2004 camper. Look behind the battery area.

The box outside


The box inside


The self resetting circuit breaker. The breaker with the 2 black wires is for the slide. The large red wired one is to protect the main camper power.


If you ever want to try and get into that junction box, ask here first so you do not get frustrated and end up breaking it trying to get in. Dirt gets in the screw holes making it very difficult to get the screws out.

Hope this helps

John
John, I'm asking.

The slide came all the way in at the campground but we did not get the usual clanking sound at the end (Always does it in both directions). We tried to run it out a bit and try again but nothing happened. No movement at all. I checked the 15 amp fuse in the fuse box but it was good and I put a known good fuse in with still no joy. The motor was not remotely warm and when we tried the switch again, there was no noise from the motor. I put the hand crank in and ran the slide out a turn or two and then brought it back in gently.

It appears to be the Lippert system based on pictures you posted in another thread. I lubed it late last year.

I want to test the auto reset breaker in the junction box but I figured I'd ask about those pesky cover screws first. Seems odd that it ran normally all the way to the end and then just quit so I'm guessing an electrical fault.

Is there a relay somewhere to tell the motor which way to turn or does the wall switch perform that function?
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Old 07-06-2021, 10:24 AM   #14
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Hi Dig,

It sounds like you have an electrical fault.

There is no power relay in your system. The wall switch is a double pole double throw switch that reverses the motor polarity.

Some where in your camper, most likely near the slide in and out switch, is an emergency stop switch for the slide. It is a big switch about the same size as the in and out switch, just it is an on and off switch. Power to the slide in and out switch comes from this switch. Mine is buried inside a near by cabinet. Check and make sure that switch is OK.

Before I would get into the plastic junction box on the front of the camper, do a voltage check at the motor. Many are just wire nutted connected to the large 10 gage Sunline power wires that go to the wall reversing switch. Have someone flip the switch while you use a volt meter or test light at the motor wire connection. If you have power, then the motor has issues.

If no power, then next pull out the reversing wall switch and see that it has power. The switch may have gone bad. Next is the emergency switch, pull it out and check for power there. If none, then the plastic junction box on the frame header is next.

I do not know what 15 amp fuse you checked. There are none that small in the slide drive. The 30 amp self resetting breaker is all that fuses that year’s slide system.

There are 6 tiny screws in the plastic junction box. The 2004’s I have had apart are all tiny Philips head and sent back in about 3/4 to 1 inch in. Dig the dirt out, use a screw driver or small drill bit by hand. Compress air blow if you have one the dirt out or vacuum. Look in with a flash light for the Philips head. The screw is about a no, 4 maybe a 6 screw.

Once the screw driver fits the head, tap the driver with a hammer to set the tip, push hard as you can in, and by hand unscrew to not slip out of the head. If you are lucky, all 6 will comes out.

The last one I was in, 4 screws would not come out and the heads all stripped.
I had to drill the heads off, once cover was off, then I dealt with the broken off screws. More on that if you have the same issue

Water getting into the box has made some of those self resetting breakers fail. Corrosion and high power do not last long.

By the way, the slide system is a Lippert system, but in 2004 LCI bought the motor drive from Venture systems. LCI made the rack and pinion arms etc and just used the venture motor drive. In 06 and 07 models LCI started to make their own motor drive or at least be made for them as LCI was cast into the motor drive

Hope this helps and let us know how it goes

John
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Old 07-06-2021, 04:41 PM   #15
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Thanks, John. You always come through with great information. It got me to thinking, I never noticed an Emergency Stop Switch. The wall switch is between the kitchen window and the microwave oven. The only other thing on the wall is a GFI two plug outlet. There is one overhead cabinet but it has a standard 110 outlet for the microwave and nothing else.

I came to my senses and dug out the complete owner's manual (it was a one owner camper so I have THAT going for me). I found the floorplan that shows a kill switch (19) and the room switch (20) but not the microwave plug. That may not be important since it also fails to mention the nightstand outlets. I dunno.

Anyhow, NOTHING else mentions the Kill Switch. Only the slider switch and I can't find it.

The page I attached talks about how the system will shut down if something impedes it. In our case, the leading edge of the carpet comes into contact with the swivel chair and it's never been a problem before. It usually just humps up the loose flap and finishes the job. Maybe this time, it decided to stop. It's definitely the right place for that to occur.

However, I can't find anything in the manual that says how to start it once it has shut down. Does it just start working again when the obstruction has been removed? How would it know unless it moved a little bit? Is there a reset button? Questions, questions.

I'd like to rule out things that fit the timeline before I go ripping into wires. I took a peek at the motor and it's two wires coming from a harness out of the floor and they disappear into the motor. Some disassembly may be required.

Oh, the 15 amp fuse is labeled Slideroom. Further thought leads me to believe it is for the lights in the slide.
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Old 07-06-2021, 08:50 PM   #16
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Dig,

In your system, there is overload protection in case the slide runs into something that is so blocked, it would break the system under power. It does this 2 ways

1. There is a mechanical detent overload clutch. If the power required by the motor drive exceeds the bind/blockage of the jam, the clutch trips and ratchets. This ratcheting clunk of the clutch is the clunking you hear all the time when the slide reaches full out and then you let your finger off the button to stop the clunking. The clutch is an auto reset clutch.

2. There is a 30 amp self resetting circuit breaker in the plastic junction box in the frame header. This protects wire shorts to ground and power overload above 30 amps. The breaker will auto reset if it trips once it cools down and the electrical overload condition that caused it is gone.

There is no overload reset button. The mechanical detent clutch works well on a system overload, it normally always trips before 30 amps is created by the motor.

If I understand you right, there is no motor movement at all. No clutch tripping noise. The clutch only is in the picture when the motor is used. When you out the hand crank in, there is no clutch or any over load protection as the manual crank goes right on the main drive screw of the slide drive. That is why you have to be super careful when using the hand crank. It only takes inch pounds of toque on the manual crank to tear off the trunnion lugs on the main slide drive attachment if the system is turned the wrong way it under a hard jam.

Your symptoms point to the motor not running. Either lack of power or a bad motor if power is actually going to it.

Since you could gently move the slide in and out manually, that also helps confirm the slide drive is not jammed by being stuck.

This points you to start confirming where power is or is not reaching the motor.

Let us know how you make out.

John
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Old 07-11-2021, 11:41 AM   #17
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I'm baffled. I just can't explain it.

I bought a $90 amp clamp multimeter because my family kept ragging on my wobbly $5 Harbor Freight meter. Armed with the proper diagnostic tool, I set forth to slay this dragon.

I took a peek at the junction box and saw that it was well defended by the second battery and the second propane bottle so I removed both to get the clearance I needed to work. Using the instructions above, I successfully extracted all 5 tiny screws. The 6th screw was AWOL.

The wiring in my box was different from the one pictured earlier in this thread. A picture of mine is attached below. Instead of the expected self resetting breaker, a 30 amp blade fuse link was wired in, also pictured below. The fuse looked good so I got busy with the tester.

I reconnected the second battery and showed 12 volts (nominally) at the battery. Then I went to the fused link and got nothing. I started tracing back toward the battery. The wiring went back (long spiraled orange wire) to what might have been the previously expected self reset breaker. The wire coming out the other side (red wire going through the left wall of the box, then becoming red with black grime on the top) led to the main battery disconnect switch for the whole camper, also pictured below.

Except when I looked at it, it was set to OFF instead of ON. If fact, if you look at the pic below (turned sideways 90 degrees) where my hand is holding the 30 amp link, you can see just a bit of the faded red label of the switch indicating that it was in the OFF position, just beyond the propane pipe. I switched it on and went into the camper thinking it couldn't be that easy but deep inside, I knew it could.

I pushed the wall button and the slide powered right on out.

Keep in mind that when this all began at the campground, I was outside, sweeping leaves off the slide topper as it retracted under the command of my wife, standing in the kitchen with her finger on the button. No one else was around. No one was near the tongue. In fact, I've NEVER touched that switch since I bought the camper!

How did the camper disconnect switch turn itself off immediately following the slide retraction because no one else did?

As I said, I'm baffled... but relieved.

Thanks again, John! I wasn't even aware there was a junction box out front, let alone the location of the slide overload. It could have been a disaster.
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Old 07-11-2021, 07:37 PM   #18
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Hi Dig,

Glad for two things,

1. You broke into that evil junction box on the header and came out unscathed! All screws that were there came out!. You get an A+!

2. You found the problem and fix it! Even is it was turning on the disconnect switch, that was an easy fix.

Hey, you got a nice new multi meter out of this, new tools are always a good thing.

The 30 amp fuse in your junction box, is the truck charge fuse. It protects the truck and the camper if there is a short on either side. If that fuse blows, you camper battery will not charge when connected to the truck. I brought that fuse to the outside of the box so I can change it if it does blow versus dealing with getting into that box just to change it. I have pics if you want to consider doing this.

I did see the 2, self resetting circuit breakers in your pics. One for the main camper power convertor fuse panel and one for the slide driver motor. They are mounted in a differently then our 2004 Slide camper, but they both share all the same parts.

Good job getting this done!

John

PS, by chance did you do the screw upgrade on the junction box so you do not have deal with those tiny screws again?
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Old 07-12-2021, 04:15 AM   #19
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Hi Dig,

Glad for two things,

1. You broke into that evil junction box on the header and came out unscathed! All screws that were there came out!. You get an A+!

2. You found the problem and fix it! Even is it was turning on the disconnect switch, that was an easy fix.

Hey, you got a nice new multi meter out of this, new tools are always a good thing.

The 30 amp fuse in your junction box, is the truck charge fuse. It protects the truck and the camper if there is a short on either side. If that fuse blows, you camper battery will not charge when connected to the truck. I brought that fuse to the outside of the box so I can change it if it does blow versus dealing with getting into that box just to change it. I have pics if you want to consider doing this.

I did see the 2, self resetting circuit breakers in your pics. One for the main camper power convertor fuse panel and one for the slide driver motor. They are mounted in a differently then our 2004 Slide camper, but they both share all the same parts.

Good job getting this done!

John

PS, by chance did you do the screw upgrade on the junction box so you do not have deal with those tiny screws again?
I did not do a screw upgrade yet. I was contemplating using deck screws. They are rust resistant , long enough and their heads would be wide enough to pull the box lid tightly down without using washers. They would back out easily at some future date. I'd be interested in hearing your idea.

I'm also interested in the truck fuse idea.

Still scratching my head over how it all went down and how the disconnect switch was turned off, though.
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Old 07-12-2021, 10:42 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Digmenow View Post
I did not do a screw upgrade yet. I was contemplating using deck screws. They are rust resistant , long enough and their heads would be wide enough to pull the box lid tightly down without using washers. They would back out easily at some future date. I'd be interested in hearing your idea.

I'm also interested in the truck fuse idea.

Still scratching my head over how it all went down and how the disconnect switch was turned off, though.
Here is the screw upgrade with pics. I use stainless sheet metal screws, no 6 or 8 x 1" long. Do not overtighten.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post137518

Here is the fuse holder upgrade, scroll down in this post to see the pics of the fuse holder coming out the bottom.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...y-17444-5.html


My 7 wire cable came in the back of the box. Some are setup that the 7 wire cable comes in the side of the box. I have seen some folks feed the fuse holder back through the 7 wire cable hole. I just could never get the wires long enough and did not want to extend them.

I also use 3M 33 or 88 electrical tape around the cover joint to create a better water tight seal.

If you need more pics let me know. I have done both of those upgrades on several Sunlines. I have raw pics somewhere of them.

On the disconnect switch, just chalk it up to a senior moment. All I can say it, it happens! Trust me, I know...
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