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Old 07-21-2019, 08:54 AM   #41
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WOW, what a beautiful trailer! Yes, I do believe those aluminum wheels to be original, they were optional at the time and a pretty rare option at that. They usually only show up on SE package trailers, although I think they could be had on an aluminum sided one too. The aluminum wheel option changed to a five spoke in 2005, so I think this one was only 2001-04. The 2001 brochure has a picture of the actual wheel, although it looks a little different. I've seen the style you have on Sunlines before though, so I believe it to be correct.

I can't help you on a supplier. It may be stamped on the back side somewhere.

+1 on Goodyear Endurance. Granted I don't have a ton of miles on mine, but I'm very happy with them.
I didn't even notice this until I read your post! What else makes it a Special Edition?



Quote:
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Hi Jim,

That is good to know. In 2005 Sunline upgraded the slide floor from Darco covered OSB to a plastic coated OSB slide floor. It for sure made it into the full size slides of all 2005 and forward. It sounds like on your smaller slide, it made it there too. Good to know.

In Dig's case, he seems to have the upgrade early. Will have to see what his build date is. I know the earlier build date 2004's and older ones even on the 5th wheels, they had the Darco covered slide floor.

Thanks

John


Also, the valve stems were already Heavy Duty to begin with so they were designed for the higher PSI that the tires need. My only concern is that they are 15 years old. I probably should have had new ones installed but I don't imagine the rubber degradation in valve stems is comparable to that in the tires.
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Old 07-21-2019, 08:56 AM   #42
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OK good!

The valve stems, ah yeh. If I'm understand it right, I'm surprised the shop did not just plain change them out to high pressure stems?? That is standard practice. You sure they didn't do that?

Nothing foolish on balancing the spare. I would. The day you need that spare some several hundred to thousand miles from home, it needs to be in perfect operating condition.

H'mm OK learning something new. It seems you have the 2005 upgraded design slide floor. What is the build date on the VIN sticker of this camper? I wonder where in the 2004 model year they adapted to the 2005 upgrade.

Since you have that slide floor, you do not have to worry about the Darco holes, YEH.

But, with every new design there is a learning curve... the first attempt at the slide floor upgrade has a different problem. This is industry wide issue, not only Suline. The physical ends of the slide floor exposed below the molding, the coating splits over time due to sun damage and then water gets in and expands the OSB coated slide floor. Let me hunt for pics showing this. Since yours is in pristine condition, if you seal that exposed area now, it will ward off the issue.

Look at both ends of the slide floor and the black part of the floor below the white molding strip.

I'll be back soon.

John
The exposed ends were the first thing that crossed my mind after my moment of relief from the lack of Darco. Both ends currently look brand new. What would you seal them with?
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Old 07-21-2019, 10:08 AM   #43
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The exposed ends were the first thing that crossed my mind after my moment of relief from the lack of Darco. Both ends currently look brand new. What would you seal them with?
I found most of the pics I was after. Will make a post on just that later today and link it here. Been meaning to do this for some time anyway.
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Old 07-21-2019, 10:16 AM   #44
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Thanks of the vin pic. May 2004, yup that is just about the turning point I think in that year when the 2005's started to come out. Maybe Sunline Fan knows what month in the 2004 time frame they switched to the next model year, June, July? I know if has moved around over the years what month they changed.

The good news, and especially for you, you have the next generation slide floor and the slide floor trough. The trough changed too from an all sheet metal one to a combo trough that was lined with a plastic wear strip on the end of it. The wear strip helped slow down the wear on the slide floor coating or in my case of the older design, the Darco.
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Old 07-22-2019, 06:29 PM   #45
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Dig, in case you didn't see it, see here for the slide floor end repair.

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...tml#post149369
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Old 07-23-2019, 03:54 PM   #46
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I don't see a link but I'll search for it later tonight after work.

Meanwhile..

Why do I need 2 batteries on the 280sr? Boondocking with the super slide? I'd like to delete one battery to make room on the tongue for my ez-stor hitch storage. Tell me why I shouldn't.
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Old 07-23-2019, 04:28 PM   #47
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I don't see a link but I'll search for it later tonight after work.

Meanwhile..

Why do I need 2 batteries on the 280sr? Boondocking with the super slide? I'd like to delete one battery to make room on the tongue for my ez-stor hitch storage. Tell me why I shouldn't.

Hi Dig, h'mm wonder if the PC you are on does not allow links to show. It is showing on my post above.

Here it is again, http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...tml#post149369

Can you see it now? It is a now sticky on top of the Slide camper forum

2 batteries on a slide camper. If you are boondocking this is really a need. The power draw getting the slide in and out along with a power tongue jack and multiple day traveling, setting up, breaking camp and moving from one place to the next leaves you with not enough recharge time to ever recharge a single or double battery back to 100% state of charge. Using 2 batteries helps get you through.

Now, if you never, ever boondock, and you "always" plug the camper in at home and the campground, or have it on a battery minder/tender going on the battery when you are not camping, your battery will be at 100% state of charge at the start of every camping trip and the end. You can get by on a one camping trip setup and teardown with only one battery. Because you are always plugged into shore power at home and at camp.

If you put the camper in a storage lot, or are at home and not plugged in or on a battery minder/tender and a month or more goes by between trips, and you head out on short days at camp and start moving camps often, well you could get into an issue.

Tell us more about your camping habits to help better. The slide power draw is more than a power tongue jack power draw. Almost 2 times more as the motor runs twice as long.

John
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Old 07-23-2019, 07:27 PM   #48
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I'm posting from my phone so that's probably why I don't see the link. I'll be home in a couple of hours and then I'll be on my laptop.

I keep the 1950 plugged into a standard outlet outside of the house using a converter plug. Based on some recent work performed using that receptacle, I'm guessing 10 amps. That keeps the fridge cold and the battery hot. I'll do the same with the 280 until I can get a 30 amp receptacle installed.

Camping so far has been shore power all the way, Thursdays through Sundays. There's talk of a road trip to either Fort Wilderness to see the mouse or Canada via Niagara falls. All stops will be scheduled in advance at campgrounds along the way. Boondocking is far in the future and I can always put the second battery back on the tongue if it comes to that.
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Old 07-23-2019, 10:35 PM   #49
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Dig, in case you didn't see it, see here for the slide floor end repair.

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...tml#post149369
Got it, Thanks. I was wondering if drip edges were in my future. Looks like they will be.
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Old 07-24-2019, 07:42 PM   #50
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If you are plugged in all the time, then for sure 1 good battery will get you through.

And just mentioning it, the power converter in your T280SR due the age of it is better one then what was in your T-1950. Your 20 amp wall outlet at home will keep the camper the same are your T1950 did, just still you cannot use the roof AC unit, the water heater on electric or the microwave off a 10 amp supply. But for keeping the battery up and running the fridge, 10 amps of 120 VAC is ok.

Have fun with the new camper. Always good times sorting out all the little things on a new camper.

John
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Old 08-19-2019, 04:05 AM   #51
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If you are plugged in all the time, then for sure 1 good battery will get you through.

And just mentioning it, the power converter in your T280SR due the age of it is better one then what was in your T-1950. Your 20 amp wall outlet at home will keep the camper the same are your T1950 did, just still you cannot use the roof AC unit, the water heater on electric or the microwave off a 10 amp supply. But for keeping the battery up and running the fridge, 10 amps of 120 VAC is ok.

Have fun with the new camper.
Always good times sorting out all the little things on a new camper.

John
You ain't just whistlin' "Dixie"! I've had an interesting time trying to get all of the lighting working. Still a few miscreants giving me fits. The microwave circuit is very temperamental and needs to be reset at least once an outing and the water heater gave me quite a scare on a previous outing but I've since come to believe that the erratic campground feed was to blame for that issue.

We spent the past Thursday through Sunday as guests (as in FREE) of a family member who's pretty high up on the executive flow chart of a large DC (no pun intended) electrical contractor. The family owns a near hundred acre tract bordering the South Branch of the Potomac River in West Virginia.




No bath house but the camper's facilities worked fine after I learned to close the front and back split bath doors and open the window along with the fan/vent.

Full hookup with sewer! They forgot to tell me that it was 50 amp only and it wasn't until we got there that I realized that when I had transferred all of my gear from the 1950 to the 280, I overlooked the electrical compartment which was where I kept the 50 amp to 30 amp converter. D'oh. No worries though as I located a dogbone converter in one of the storage sheds onsite.

Tubing on the water, target shooting and relaxing since there were no distractions for miles. Good times!

Nearest available diesel was 10 miles away in Paw Paw. More on the tow vehicle later in another thread.
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Old 08-21-2019, 10:05 AM   #52
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Hi Dig,

That camper looks great out there Camping again! Yeh....

Your camping pad looks like a landing strip.... Nice a flat too!

Have fun, if you need help you know where to ask.

Thanks for sharing. Always good to see Sunline’s in action.

John
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:02 AM   #53
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Thanks, John. Been so busy researching and wrenching on the Powerstroke trying to get it up to snuff once and for all (if that's even possible), that I've been remiss in posting here.

Take a look at the middle picture in Post 51 and click the resize button. Use the slider buttons to zoom in on our host's 6 month old Coachmen Freedom Express behind the yellow building. If you examine the only visible front marker light, you can see the delamination ripples just below the light on the front cap.

I got my moisture meter out of its storage cupboard and while they were away for a bit, surreptitiously scanned the outside of the whole unit. When they returned, I asked him how much he knew about water damage and if he'd be interested in having his camper checked. He was intrigued, since the unit was brand new and I asked if he had noticed the humps in the front cap. He said that he had seen it but just figured it was natural settling of the structure.

Not wanting to be the bearer of unsolicited bad news, I explained the moisture meter to him, tested it on the palm of his hand (95%) and asked if he'd like to see it in action on his camper. Well, who wouldn't? I grabbed my ladder and we walked over. I showed him the unit on a (known) dry spot returning a zero rating on the meter.

Then I moved it to the spot below the marker light. The alarm went off and it pegged at 100%. I covered the 4 or 5 square foot area that I already knew was wet and extended out to the dry edges. It showed completely dry above the light and saturated below so we figured the light was the leak point. The side wall, luckily, was bone dry. He was a bit shaken by the revelation.

I let him try it for himself and we grabbed a tube of silicone sealant from my son-in-law's camper to let him temporarily seal it until he could get it back to the dealership for warranty repairs. I advised him to have them remove the cap and if the wet wood couldn't be replaced, at least have them dry it fully with heaters while it was open for evaporation before reattaching the cap.

I haven't heard back yet what's been done but I don't anticipate an easy go for him. Turns out the dealership is the same place linked in the first post of this thread that tried to sell us the 264 SR with the missing section of roof. I'm hoping he gets better treatment than we did.
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Old 08-26-2019, 01:15 PM   #54
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Hi Dig,

Your friend for sure has a classic case of delamination. The only thing that may save your friend from a costly repair, is that it is 6 months old from when he bought it. It is common on water leaks that the manufacturer will claim lack of annual maintenance was not done and not warrant a leak. In this case the is didn’t make it even a year. That leak to cause that much that fast was leaking a good while.

Are the body lights caulked on the others as he bought it? If they are and they missed the leaking one, it could help support a factory miss. But many now a days no longer even caulk. They count on the foam gasket to do it all. Which is a leak waiting to happen.

It is sad to see this, but not surprising. I have seen other brands who use to caulk the tops of light fixtures, or DOT lights no longer do it. Sad for sure. This was preventable.
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Old 08-26-2019, 02:47 PM   #55
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Thanks, John. Been so busy researching and wrenching on the Powerstroke trying to get it up to snuff once and for all (if that's even possible), that I've been remiss in posting here.
I've got a high milage '02 7.3 too, good motors and I'd take mine anywhere. Just did a trip to VT
Most problems are common and easily repaired. Find a good forum on them and you'll be set.
Also I'd recommend a OBD reader and the torque app, diagnose and monitor the engine for cheap!
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Old 08-26-2019, 07:18 PM   #56
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I've got a high milage '02 7.3 too, good motors and I'd take mine anywhere. Just did a trip to VT
Most problems are common and easily repaired. Find a good forum on them and you'll be set.
Also I'd recommend a OBD reader and the torque app, diagnose and monitor the engine for cheap!
Hah! It's like you've been looking over my shoulder! I'm really digging it so far. I intend to start a thread about it in the TV section but I will say here that I'm hip deep into the Torque Pro app. Pretty much set but I just wish I could get EGT readings. I guess I'll have to install a meter for that one, though as the '02 doesn't have a pyrometer in the exhaust system.
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Old 08-31-2019, 07:00 PM   #57
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Help me out! What should I do?

In a world that is as large as this one, sometimes it can be very small. We're camping this holiday weekend in Delaware and my son-in-law got here a couple of days earlier. I had to drive home to pick up my wife and take her to an appointment. On our way back to the campground, my son-in-law shoots us a text.

"You're not going to believe this but I just met the people who bought that other Sunline (the 264 in the thread title) and they're thrilled with it!"

He went on to say that he told them that he had seen it before (twice, actually) but he didn't mention the water damage and missing roof section that I had discovered earlier in this thread. He said they were super friendly and bought it for a little over $7000.

They're currently on the other side of the campground. It's apparent even from a distance that the siding and roofline are undisturbed by any repairs.

Would I be doing them a favor by introducing myself as a fellow Sunline owner who had shopped that very camper and asking if the roof had been repaired and the walls stripped and dried or is that out of line?

I'd like to think that I'd be appreciative if someone told me that I needed to save my new purchase before it fell down around me.

What do you folks think? Be the bearer of bad news or let them deal with any problems that may arise?

Heck, they may already be members here!
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Old 09-01-2019, 04:51 AM   #58
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I’d probably keep what you know to myself. Telling them would probably ruin the holiday weekend for them.

In conversation I would mention the importance of roof maintenance and let it go at that.
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Old 09-01-2019, 07:19 AM   #59
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Yeah, I already got the word from headquarters this morning that there would be no unsolicited advice dispensed. Best of luck to the currently happy campers.
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Old 09-01-2019, 09:02 AM   #60
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Hi Dig,

This is a tough call. I have been in similar situations. One for instance our last campout. The campers next to us just pulled in and the started to setup their pop up. I was still setting up and didn’t pay that much attention at first. Then as their setup progressed I saw 2 things that could get someone hurt. They unhooked the camper with no wheel chocks in place and they had the beds pulled out and the roof up, all without putting down the rear stabilizers.

Growing up on a farm I have already dealt with 2 tractors rolling down a hill due to events after getting off them, and I did a bone head thing on our pop up drying it out in our yard without the rear stabilizers being down. I caught myself as the pop up started to go tongue high with me walking in the back of it. When the teeter-totter started to go out of control, I caught it in time and the tongue came down gently, but it could of been bad.

Now to the situation at hand, do I go help them or stay out of it? They had a young child that was rambunctious and I can envision this not being good if the camper started to move. After thinking through this, I grabbed 4 spare wood blocks from my stash and I went over. With a friendly hello we exchanged names and I tactfully told them I noticed no wheel chocks in place and the rear stabilizers not down. I spoke briefly on some close calls that happened to me and was trying to help them understand what may happen.

They started out with this is our first ever trip doing the RV thing. And they had wheel chocks, just they didn’t put them on yet and the stabilizers were stuck and had to get a hammer to break the rust free. They thanked me big time. I told them we created a checklist and in what order things need to be done in. They had a pad and were going to take notes. I was relieved that they responded positively and I’m sure how the message was delivered in a friendly way helped.

In the your 264SR case, odds are high the dealer did nothing to the camper and sold it as is. You can’t change that. And bashing them for not doing it isn’t going to really help with the new owners. Selling of undisclosed wet campers happens a lot by folks who know better.

I myself would not ask them if the dealer fixed all the stuff you found. That sets a tone that is not going to come out well. They missed it and the dealer may not have told them. This may be their first camper and they have no understanding of how campers can leak.

Introducing yourself and telling them about the forum and you now are on your second Sunline, can create a positive thing in common. Telling them about the forum and the many articles we have on how to do most anything in keeping a camper, from axle work to a very important topic of roof maintenance etc. You can elaborate as much on they may want to hear.

You made contact, hopefully helped them and if they act on your suggestion the roof issues will come up. There is not much they can do this weekend to change what happened, but hopefully can be better prepared for what may come.

There is also how to read people. If the husband is doing a lot of yelling about things setting up camp to his kids or wife, well he might not be receptive to listening to much and better leave that situation alone.
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