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Old 09-02-2019, 06:45 PM   #61
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Much ado about nothing. Despite my good intentions and the great advice posted above, I didn't bump into them at the pool and with a suddenly ill grandson, we spent so much time at the urgent care joint (he's fine now) that there was no opportunity to make contact. They were gone the next time I had a chance to look. If they join the site and read this thread, I sincerely wish them well.
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Old 09-08-2019, 07:41 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Dig, in case you didn't see it, see here for the slide floor end repair.

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...tml#post149369
Quote:
Originally Posted by Digmenow View Post
Got it, Thanks. I was wondering if drip edges were in my future. Looks like they will be.
Well, after getting most of the loose ends tied up on the Powerstroke, I'm moving back to the Sunline. Looking at how the seals work on this camper, I can't see how to install drip edges. It looks like they will snag on the seals.


On a completely unrelated note, I have solved the two battery issue wherein the second battery occupies the space that I need for the EZStorHitch. I simply inverted the EZStor and mounted it beneath the A-frame! It sits (allllmost) above the line from the fully retracted jack foot to the stabilizer jacks so ground clearance should not be a problem. The antitheft top part of the device now serves as the 'floor' that the trunnions slide in and rest on when in storage and the hitch simply faces out instead of in to hold everything together. Much relieved. I'll post pics when possible.
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Previously: 2003 Solaris Lite T-1950
"The Land of Pleasant Living!"
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Old 09-08-2019, 08:12 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digmenow View Post
I'm moving back to the Sunline. Looking at how the seals work on this camper, I can't see how to install drip edges. It looks like they will snag on the seals.
Hi Dig,

I'll try and explain the method I used a little more to help show how snagless the materials and mounting I used, are. I have been using this method for over 9 years now, and there are no cuts, nipps, tears, or wear on the slide seals with the drip edge if done with this method.

This is a thread with more detail, scroll down to the lower part of this reply. and skim forward to the end of the thread for more detail. http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...html#post84825

Here are few of the key critical parts and how they attach.

You "have" to start with a folded over hemmed edge on the drip edge material. The edge that rides the seal is a full round radius and smooth. This is a key factor.

I used a long leg standard building aluminum drip edge. The drip leg is longer than the normal drip edge. All lumber yards may not have it, but may be able to get it.





Hard to show in the pics, but the edge is folded over and creased and that creates that perfect smooth edge to ride against the slide seal.

If you used a sheared or cut edge (90 deg sharp) piece of drip edge against the seal, it will tear into the slide seal is short order.

Next key point, how to mount it so the slide seal never leaves that smooth edge.

Start with the end slide wall flat molding off and the siding unstapled at the bottom. In this pic I had the corner molding off. In your case you do not need to take the corner off, just the flat wall molding and the take the staples out. You can slip the drip edge up behind the wall siding.



Then you have to get the drip edge inside the camper behind the slide seals so the end of the drip edge is mounted inside the camper with the slide extended full out. Fold back the slide seal to see in there and push the drip edge through.


You will have to measure and trim the drip edge to fit inside the slide room flange area so it will lift up high enough so the drip edge itself is just at the bottom of the slide floor, approx 1/32 to 1/16 max above the floor. For sure not below the floor with the drip edge as it will get bent up riding in and out of the camper. Since the slide flange is still on, you can't get the drip edge up behind that part of the siding, so just trim the area that would of gone up under the siding off.


Next is another key point, you staple that end of the drip edge inside the camper to the slide floor. Just 1 staple is needed to hold up that end. This staple is inside the camper and behind the slide flanges.


By making the drip edge longer then the stroke out of the slide room, the slide seals never leave the smooth edge of the drip edge. The radiused edge is always in contact with the seal flap from full closed to full open.


The slide seals wiper already 100% of the time rides the flat bottom wall molding. The drip edge is the same.


With that added explanation, does it help show the method I used? It is not the only way to do this, just the one I came up with and has worked well.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 09-07-2021, 12:04 PM   #64
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Hey, John! I wanted to get your opinion on whether you see any problems using the item described below to deal with the exposed floorboard issue.

I was at a campground over Labor Day and the folks next to us had installed a pair of "Slide Skis" under the exposed ends of one of the slides on their 2020 Whatchmacallit Express Bunkhouse. The intended purpose of these doo dads is to help the slide go in and out easier but an unintended consequence is that they perfectly seal the exposed edges of the slide floor with a watertight cover! They got them much cheaper than Amazon through a private supplier that I will likely use as well and will share the info here if all goes well.

I looked at their slide that didn't have them installed yet and it was just like mine with the black coated, exposed MDF floorboard ends.

They removed the side trim from the outer wall and installed them by sliding them under the floor from the inside although there are YouTube demos that suggest briefly lifting (I know, I know) the slide to slip the skids in. Not sure which method would be best. Then they used some butyl tape to hold them in place on the side and bottom and they reinstalled the side trim which acts as a clip to hold the skid tight to the side wall.



Here's a brief YouTube video. Whatcha think?

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Old 09-21-2021, 06:42 AM   #65
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Hi Dig,

Sorry this took so long to respond. Between camping (yeh!) and repair worked I have been swamped here lately.

The "slide ski" was born out of the aftermarket industry to address an RV industry new slide floor design flaw. Around 2005 time frame, Sunline and many other RV manufactures started changing the slide floor system to a plastic coated OSB 1" thick slide floor. The plastic coating was a good thing, but the ends of the slide floor that where exposed had plastic cracks aggravated by sunlight that would form over time. Water wicked in the ends and started a rot situation.

You mentioned that your 2004 Sunline may have this plastic coated floor system, is that correct? Your might be one of the last 2004's made before they switched to the 2005 models in mid 2004, and thus you may have the new system. Many of the 2004's or older had the Darco black plastic wrap over 2, 1/2" OSB sheets glued together.

The older, Darco wrapped wood concept looks like this:




There was also a slide trough change that went with slide floor change. The older formed metal trough went with the older Darco wrapped design


The new design was the plastic coated floor with a new fabricated (welded) metal trough with UHMW plastic glide strips to cut friction on it.

This is a 2005 Sunline with the coated floor. You can see the plastic chips missing at the screw area.




This one is from a 2007 Sunline.






I gave you all that background info to help address how a slide ski fits needs to fit into the system.

I agree, the concept of the slide ski is a good one. It covers the area exposed to the weather on the slide ends where the damage has been occurring. But, there are some installation things to work through, that may be unique to Sunlines approach to building a slide.

If you are going to install the ski, and by the way, there are two brands of ski's out there, the brand from RecPro you found and there is another one. I'll have to hunt for it if you need it. The dimensions are different for both. While I found these slide skies a year or so ago, I have not yet installed one. There are some issues to work through. Here are my thoughts on what needs to be done or find another work around.

I agree, pull the flat trim molding off to expose the siding. It would look similar to this, this is the older Darco wrapped wood camper, but the siding and the trim molding is the same. Note: You do not have to pull off the slide corner moldings as shown in this pic.


Pull the staples from the siding so you can shove ski up under the siding. Now to the harder part, and the part that may makes these skies be a potential problem. A work around the problem for sure needs to be created and tested so the ski does not tear off over time.

The end of the slide floor, we will call it the "tongue". This area is what slides under load on the slide floor trough when the slide goes in and out. There is a lot of pressure on the end walls of the slide during the last part of slide room extension and the first part of retracting the slide to deal with.

See here for the problem area. This is out of a 2006 Sunline.






The vertical leg of the slide ski that will slip up the wall, behind the siding, has to be notched out when you get to the slide wall angle flange. The white angle metal in the pics above. Your not going to be able (easily) to shove the slide ski up behind that angle without a lot of work.

The ski slide wall leg, would be notched to just sneak around the slide flange angle. That creates a weaker slide ski slide wall leg. That same ski leg has to be notched to align with the slide floor thickness inside the camper to fit under the carpet.

The next area of need, is the tongue angle at the tip of the slide ski. The RecPro ski has a molded end on it. I'm not sure that angle matches the Sunline floor tongue angle and length. You really have to fasten that end angle plastic well as that is where a lot of force happens on that angle section when the slide room is going in and out.

I'm making an assumption, if your 2004 has this slide floor trough in it if it has the plastic coated new floor design. Please confirm.




The concept of the ski is good. However the slide tongue area needs some refinement on how to over come the mounting of the tongue end and not come off in the future.

If you take this on, please post the process or ask more questions. I'm sure there is a way on how to mount the tongue area, but that detail does not show up yet on the web that I found how it would fit on a Sunline. Hopefully someone else has done this and can post.

Hope this helps

John
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