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Old 04-12-2008, 07:06 PM   #1
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Can a tow a 2006 T-276SR Classic with a 2005 F150 Crew Cab?

Hello all,

I am new to this site and am looking at buying a 2006 T-276SR. My F150's owner's manual says that it can tow up to 8200#. I see that the GVW on this Sunline is 8600#. My question is am I asking for trouble by trying to tow this thing with my truck? We don't take very long trips, maybe the longest would be 500 miles one way once a year. The rest would be short weekend type trips.

Also, can anyone tell me how the Sunline TT's would compare to the Nash TT's by Northwood? Any info you can provide me with would be very much appreciated. Thank you.
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Old 04-12-2008, 08:49 PM   #2
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Hi Penguin33

I looked up the 2005 F150. https://www.fleet.ford.com/showroom/...wing_Guide.pdf

Iím missing if you have 4 x 4 or 4 x 2 wheel drive and what rear axle ratio so I can back into the GCWR. And Iím trying to back into the GVWR on the truck to confirm if you have what Ford calls Super Crew or Super Cab as the Wheel base is different and so is the allowable payload. Also it would be good to know how many pounds of passengers are in the Truck plus any travel gear that is essential for the passengers.

There are a few numbers that have to be crunched to tell how you will fair with your TV and the T276SR. Pending what the truck is, you could be right on the edge of OK or over the edge. And we are assuming you have the heavy duty tow package with the aux transmission cooler.

There is also the 990# WD rating of the F150 receiver that needs to be paid attention to but that can be upgraded if everything else falls in line.

The 2006 T276 SR weighs 6,085# dry with no gear and a 750# dry TT tongue. Most campers with that size TT can take on 1,000# of camping gear with no fresh water hauling. I know that sounds like a lot of weight, but not really.

So rolling down the road to go camping with no fresh water in the tanks you could be about 7,100# of TT back there and very possible a 1,000 to 1,100# tongue weight. And about 7,500# with fresh water. So you might be in the upper end of the pulling contest of the TV pending how much weight is in the truck. The next topic is can the truck hold up the TT with the suspension? There we need the ratings and weight data I talked about above to know more.

Iím not trying to bury you in 20 questions, just point out where you need to look to help yourself figure this out. Also see this web site. I know the fellow camper who wrote it and you cannot go wrong with the info on it. http://www.rvtowingtips.com/

Now to your questions on Sunline and Nash. Sunline is a top quality TT with a number of very unique features. If you go that route you are acquiring a high quality coach far above the normal TT of todayís market. Since you are also looking at Nash, we can tell you are looking at the higher end campers. The Nash is a good TT. I looked at both the Nash and the Artic Fox by Northwood and almost had an Artic Fox. They are good campers. However in my case they did not jump out and say WOW this is it, like the Sunline did. Last year we where looking for different camper, and in the higher end TTís the choices here on the east coast are not that many any more. The Artic Fox was nice and brand new, but it still did not jump out and say, yes thatís the one. So I continued to wait.

Then a very good friend on this forum gave me a lead to a used 2004 T310SR Sunline. It was the floor plan we where looking for and in the quality and features of the TT we would not settle for anything less. When DW and I walked into the Sunline, that same WOW yes this is it jumped out as us lie it did on our first Sunline and the Artic Fox was a distant memory. But that is my story. Every one has different likes. You will not go wrong with either the Nash or the Sunline.

Good luck and hope this helps

John
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Old 04-12-2008, 09:31 PM   #3
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JohnB:

Thanks for the reply! I have the 4X4 with the tow package and the 3.55 axle with the super crew (4 door) F150. I will have a total of 4 people in the truck total weight would be somewhere around 450 -500#. As for the gear, I mostly see us taking weekend trips without much gear, maybe another 600-800# or so. We would be towing witht the taks empty since the campgrounds that we would be going to have full hookups.

I was a little worried about the tongue weight. When you say upgrade that, do you mean with a new hitch, or by using a WD bars? And yes, we are looking at the upper end TTs. I am someone who is willing to pay a little more for a quality product. We have looked at so many that just look and feel so cheap! I guess they call them ultra lite for a reason!
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Old 04-13-2008, 05:56 AM   #4
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Penguin I think I'm a good canidate to answer a few of your questions,I had a Nash and now a Sunline,First I will say that you can't go wrong with either brand they both are well built,I would give the Nash a slight edge on being a little more solid in construction,the nash is a little more fancy inside,I would give Sunline the edge on overall quality,we had alot of little petty stuff that bothered us with our Nash but don't have that with our sunline.Now onto the truck I have a 267sr which is a foot shorter 276sr even if you can get the numbers to work out those 355 gears are going to be a killer,I don't have alot of miles towing our camper yet as I just got the tow vehicle in my sig. but even having the v-10 with 373 gears on hills I need to lay into the throttle pretty good and so far those are just small hills and the camper is not even loaded to camp yet,I know gassers like the upper rpms and such but I can tell my truck is working to pull the load.If your going to be on mostly flatland it might be doable but if your heading to the hills and mountains I think your gonna wish you had a lighter camper or bigger truck with more power,or you could always do a gear swap in the f-150 if all numbers work out,then you should be ok.
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Old 04-13-2008, 07:57 AM   #5
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Penquin: You have the 5.4L V8, right? That's the one that gets you to 8,200# max trailer. If you have the smaller 4.6L engine, it is limited to 6,500# loaded trailer weight.

A couple of thoughts from the pool of tried and true towing wisdom:

First, you've mentioned the type of trailering that you want to do. This really isn't important because if your rig is safe for short hops, it would be safe for big hops. And the reverse is true. The type of trailering just is inconsequential.

Those of us who have been there and done that all respect the "safety margin" school of thought in towing capacity. The basic idea is to have a percentage of extra towing capacity between your tow vehicle's rated maximum trailer weight and your trailer's maximum GVWR. I've heard numbers as low as 15% and as high as 33% in various discussions. I personally subscribe to the 20-25% range. Using a 20% figure, if one's tow vehicle is rated to tow 8,200#, one would set a safety margin of 6,560# as the max trailer weight to be towed by that particular vehicle. That's not a hard number, and as I already pointed out, some folks agree that 15% is OK, and others will argue a higher number.

Everybody agrees that a safety margin is a really good idea. Most agree that it is essential.

When JohnB talked about upgrading, I think he meant a larger capacity receiver. We've previously discussed the limitations of the factory installed receivers, and JohnB posted a wonderful thread on upgrading his F-350 from a Class IV receiver to a Class V which included that discussion. It is worth reading.

If you look back through the Towing and Tow Vehicles forum, you will find a number of similar threads regarding proposed tow vehicles. I would recommend reading as many of them as you can. I think you will find many commonalities to your own situation.

My previous tow vehicle was a 98 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Extended Cab, short bed with the 5.2L V8 and 3.53 gears. It came from the factory with everything but the receiver and wiring harness for towing. It did have all the extra capacity battery and alternator, oil cooling, tranny cooling, etc., that would be included in the tow package. Its rated max. loaded trailer weight was 7,800# and I was pulling a '99 T-2453 with a GVWR of 5,500#. When we go, we carry **STUFF**: two adults, one big dog, a canoe, two bikes, 10x10 shelter, FCP lean-to, rugs for everything, a 2000W generator, plenty of cribbing for those sloped campsites, lots of food and clothing, chairs, etc., etc. etc.

I towed that combination with full weight distribution and a friction sway control. The whole rig was so stable, that if I forgot to tighten up the sway control, it did not matter; no sway under any conditions.

Here's the story at that rig: On the flat, it was fine. In 55 mph zones, I got off the line OK, and accelerated up to speed nicely. I was never the guy holding up traffic. I was good up to about 62 MPH. Above that, particularly on expressways, I had to have my foot in the gas and the overdrive off to maintain any speed faster than 63. Gas mileage fell off badly when I did that. In the hills, the story began to change. Very poor hill climbing capability, and if I got stuck behind a slow-poke, that would magnify my problems because I lost any downhill momentum that I might be able to acquire for the next uphill. Once into the Adirondack Mountains, there are several hills there that were real challenges. Luckily, the worst of them have "slow vehicle" lanes on the uphill grade.

Bottom line is that I always felt that I was at about maximum capacity when fully loaded up for a ten to fourteen day trip. After we bought the boat, which my wife tows with her Grand Cherokee, I was able to move a bunch of stuff (ie. weight) to the boat for travelling, relieving the some of the load on the Ram, especially as the truck got older. I never considered the rig unsafe under any conditions. I was always unhappy about the towing in the hills and on expressways, but it was never unsafe, just not speedy enough for my tastes.

And, you'll note that I was observing about a 29% safety margin between the rated max. rated trailer weight of the TV and the GVWR of the trailer. There are other factors to be considered, of course, but it is a good first number to look at carefully. And it's one of the easiest and quickest to calculate.

I know my signature line shows a 3500 diesel dually, but we just bought that in December and have yet to tow the Sunline with it. I really don't think we'll have any problems... (And yeah, I would agree that the dually is a bit of overkill for our 5,500# trailer, but we are looking to the future and a much bigger rig.)

But I would point out that if you read the signatures of folks here on SunlineClub.com, you will see that a great number of us have 3/4 or 1 ton tow vehicles. And most of those with 1/2 ton TV's are pulling the smaller trailers (Ques, 1950's and smaller, etc.).

Take a stroll through any campground, and make note of the tow vehicles vs. the trailers on each campsite. I think you'll quickly see that the grand majority of campers are using tow vehicles that have significant extra capacity beyond their respective trailers.

The reason for that is that we all went through the same decision making process that you are just starting, and a great many of us found the lighter capacity tow vehicles versus our trailers to be sadly wanting. Some would even say downright inadequate.
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Old 04-14-2008, 04:55 AM   #6
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I just came across this on rv.net thought it may help in comparison for you,and if you look at the fifth post this person has a 276
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...d/21268750.cfm
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Old 04-14-2008, 09:34 AM   #7
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I'll second Steve's message....

I have a T-276-SR and initially had a '01 Dodge 1500 reg cab OFF-Road 4 X 4, 5.2 V-8, it's got heavy-duty everything and will pull just about anything you can attach to it, like an F-150 4x4 attached to a Diesel F-350 4x4 attached to an Diesel Expedition 4x4, all stuck in two feet of snow, long story, but Blue pulled them all loose The thing is it will pull it as long as you don't want to go more than 45-50 while doing it. Yeah, it'll do 55-60 on the flats, but the slightest upgrade will have it struggling.

Moral of the story: I now have MACK (see sig block) aka '04 Dodge Diesel 2500 4x4 towing pkg. etc. etc. Your Ford will pull it, you won't be happy with the way it does and you'll upgrade.

The other moral is I knew I was going to upgrade truck when we bought the trailer we REALLY wanted.
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Old 04-15-2008, 08:37 AM   #8
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Thanks for the info guys, I checked out the link... good info! After reading some of the posts, I am now not 100% sure if I have the 3.55 or 3.73. Anyone know an easy way to check that? Would there be that big of a difference between those two gears? I really can't thank all of you enough for the info you have posted, this is a great site, please keep the info coming! Thanks again!
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Old 04-15-2008, 09:36 AM   #9
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I think there should be a metal tag/plate right on your rear axle that tells you what the gear ration is. Some one with more knowledge should be along soon to help you more.

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Old 04-15-2008, 10:04 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Penguin33
Thanks for the info guys, I checked out the link... good info! After reading some of the posts, I am now not 100% sure if I have the 3.55 or 3.73. Anyone know an easy way to check that? Would there be that big of a difference between those two gears? I really can't thank all of you enough for the info you have posted, this is a great site, please keep the info coming! Thanks again!
On my Dodges there is a metal plate fastened to the framing next to the radiator which has all the installed options in the vehicles stamped into it. It is coded, but the codes are readily available in many places on the internet. There is also a sticker on the underside of the hood with the same info, and a sticker fastened to the wall of the glove box with the same info. You may find something similar in your Ford somewhere.

Best I can tell, the axle ratio is **not** coded in the VIN number, sorry.

I don't find anything on the Trailer Life towing charts that distinguishes the 3.73 from the 3.55 gears. My personal experience is that even that small difference in gear ratio works to your advantage in towing. The taller the gears, the better.

Added 4/16/08: I just looked in the Ford towing charts and the 3.73 gears would give you an additional 1,000# maximum loaded trailer weight and an additional 1,000# of GCWR. That takes you up to 9,200# max. trailer, and 15K GCWR.
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:45 PM   #11
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If you had a GM, I could tell you in a heart beat as they have RPO codes in the glove box.

But Ford buries it in a code on the side of the drivers side door. I forgot my exact Ford Trucks forum password and it bumped me out.

On the Ford Trucks forum site they list the codes on how to de- code the rear axle in the truck.

Or you do it the long way, jack up the truck rear end, turn the drive shaft and count wheel turns. If I remember right it would be 3.55 turns of the drive shaft per 1 rev of the tire. Or what ever you ratio.

If I can find that link. Iíll post. Iím away for work and do not have access to all my normal stuff. The decoding is also in the Ford Source book, again home in my desk drawer.

A Ford dealer can also decode the door tag.

Hope this helps

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Old 04-16-2008, 05:20 AM   #12
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penguin as mentioned there should be a tag on the rear bolted on with one of the rear cover bolts,if you post those numbers I can tell you what gear ratio you have
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Old 04-16-2008, 06:05 AM   #13
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Here is a chart of all Ford truck axle differential coding:

http://www.drivetrain.com/Fordtrkratio_posidata.html

There's even a drawing at the bottom of the page that shows exactly where the ratio tag is located on the differential.
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Old 04-17-2008, 05:51 PM   #14
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Rich2500,

Here are those numbers from the tag:

V 951 R
L55 9 75 5C14

I checked out the link that was posted, but I have a 2005 and didn't see anything listed for the newer trucks. Thanks Steve for posting the link anyway.
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Old 04-17-2008, 07:13 PM   #15
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the L55 means you got a limited slip 3:55
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Old 04-18-2008, 08:29 AM   #16
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Figures! Anyone know what the approx cost would be to upgrade to a 3:73 or 4:10?
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Old 04-18-2008, 06:57 PM   #17
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Old 04-19-2008, 05:01 AM   #18
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penguin if you do a gear swap don't even bother doing the 3:73 do the 4:10,it will be much better for towing,another thing is if you did all the other figures and your truck is fine with the numbers and you have your heart set on a 276 you could give it a try and see how it does,then at that point if your not happy with the performance then switch to the 4:10 gears,everybody has a different feeling as to what performance they are happy with and you just might be happy with the 3:55 gearing
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:19 AM   #19
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Penguin,

Just had a thought (dangerous I know ) But, is there any chance of getting a "test tow" with your current truck ? I know the trailer would be dry weight, BUT, it might help you figure out what you want to do. "IF" it pulls like a barge on dry land, how much will the gear swap help ? (some of the guys need to answer that). "IF" it tows like you feel it should, then you'd have the gear swap option if it felt a bit heavy once loaded. I know it's a huge decision, and I'm not a fan of towing over weight, but if you meet the weights and it is just a matter if going up hills a bit slower, well maybe you could deal with that until you could replace the truck. "IF" the test tow works, you know you can't buy a better long lasting trailer than a Sunline. Keep us informed

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Old 04-19-2008, 10:10 PM   #20
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Thanks once again for the info. Kitty, that is a great idea, I don't know why I never thought of it! The TT that we were looking at was at a dealer, so I'm not sure what their policy would be on a test tow... but it surely will not hurt to ask! The other thing I was wondering about was would a gear swap change my gas milage much for everyday driving (while not towing)? My truck already likes to drink... A LOT! and I would hate to make that even worse.
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