Worn out hitch

[jpspaz]

I've been using a Reese trunnion bar style hitch with bar style sway control since our trailer was new. I've noticed that over time I have had to move up the chain links to keep the set up in check. After further inspection I found that the head where the bars drop in is starting to wear. The holes where the trunnion bars fit have elongated. I am wondering if this is normal wear. I guess it's time for replacement as I cannot see any other solution. The replacement head is a little over $100 but I am considering buying a whole new hitch with the sway control built in to the WD bars. Is it worth it?

[JohnB]

Hi jpspaz,

I have seen what you are describing on some of my camper buddies hitches. I had pics of it even, but can't seem to find them right now.

Most of the time the trunnion lug and hitch head wear comes from lack of lube. Do you use any lube on the trunnion sockets in the head or on the lugs of the trunnion bars?

I use white grease and it makes the difference. It does not have to be white grease, it can be most any type of good grease. The trunnion sockets and the lugs are under extreme pressure from the WD and running dry magnify' s the wear.

The hitch head of my one buddy had was swedged (mushroomed) up out of the trunnion socket.

See here on one of my WD heads. You can see the locations I'm talking about.


The top inside


The bottom trunnion socket. Yes there is play built in from day 1. It doe not affect the hitch as the only the WD bar contact points are under load.


Grease both the upper and lower sockets of the hitch head. It really only needs it on the 180 degrees on the side all the pressure is applied to. Basically the top front and the bottom rear where the trunnion lug locks up in the hitch head.



Mine shows almost no wear, the paint is worn off but no large or even small metal is gone. The head I'm using now is pushing close 30,000 miles on it. I changed heads when we bought this newer camper so I can use the older head on my proior camper and flat bed trailer. Had different shank setup's. I would expect to get 100K miles with no problem, maybe even more. And this is on a 1,500 to 1,600# loaded tongue weight.

Now there is a down side to this, it seems the grease has a magnetic attractions to my pant legs.... I also grease the tow ball as the same thing happens there when run dry. On the ball I stick a baggy over it as soon as the ball is exposed. I have "finally" learned how to keep the WD bar far enough away from me to not make a mess.

I do use a paper towel and clean off the old grease and put new on every few times. dirt/dust gets in there and starts aggravating the issue.

I do not know how bad your wear is. Any chance of some close up pics? May be able to spot some things to help make a recommendation. Need close ups of the trunnion sockets and the lugs on the WD bar.

They do sell replacement trunnion lugs. On the head you have to replace the whole thing.

If you feel the wear is bad enough to create replacement, then upgrading may be an option. You can price out just the parts to upgrade to say a DC or look at a complete DC and WD hitch less shank as a unit. Some times the package deals are not a lot more than the parts. Your snap ups, the WD bars themselves if they have the V ends on them, the tow ball and the shank should all be good still. You may only need the new head, trunnion sockets if worn and the DC. That may add up to a savings worth going in parts alone.

Here is one place I have bought many hitch parts from and had a positive experience on all purchases. Many times they offer free freight on over $150. And when your shipping a pile of steel, that can be a bit of savings. The sell the parts and complete hitch
Weight Distribution | etrailer.com

You can shop around too, just watch out on the freight.

Hope this helps and good luck

John

[Sunline Fan]

Originally Posted by JohnB

Hi jpspaz,

I have seen what you are describing on some of my camper buddies hitches. I had pics of it even, but can't seem to find them right now.

Most of the time the trunnion lug and hitch head wear comes from lack of lube. Do you use any lube on the trunnion sockets in the head or on the lugs of the trunnion bars?

I use white grease and it makes the difference. It does not have to be white grease, it can be most any type of good grease. The trunnion sockets and the lugs are under extreme pressure from the WD and running dry magnify' s the wear.

The hitch head of my one buddy had was swedged (mushroomed) up out of the trunnion socket.

See here on one of my WD heads. You can see the locations I'm talking about.


The top inside


The bottom trunnion socket. Yes there is play built in from day 1. It doe not affect the hitch as the only the WD bar contact points are under load.


Grease both the upper and lower sockets of the hitch head. It really only needs it on the 180 degrees on the side all the pressure is applied to. Basically the top front and the bottom rear where the trunnion lug locks up in the hitch head.



Mine shows almost no wear, the paint is worn off but no large or even small metal is gone. The head I'm using now is pushing close 30,000 miles on it. I changed heads when we bought this newer camper so I can use the older head on my proior camper and flat bed trailer. Had different shank setup's. I would expect to get 100K miles with no problem, maybe even more. And this is on a 1,500 to 1,600# loaded tongue weight.

Now there is a down side to this, it seems the grease has a magnetic attractions to my pant legs.... I also grease the tow ball as the same thing happens there when run dry. On the ball I stick a baggy over it as soon as the ball is exposed. I have "finally" learned how to keep the WD bar far enough away from me to not make a mess.

I do use a paper towel and clean off the old grease and put new on every few times. dirt/dust gets in there and starts aggravating the issue.

I do not know how bad your wear is. Any chance of some close up pics? May be able to spot some things to help make a recommendation. Need close ups of the trunnion sockets and the lugs on the WD bar.

They do sell replacement trunnion lugs. On the head you have to replace the whole thing.

If you feel the wear is bad enough to create replacement, then upgrading may be an option. You can price out just the parts to upgrade to say a DC or look at a complete DC and WD hitch less shank as a unit. Some times the package deals are not a lot more than the parts. Your snap ups, the WD bars themselves if they have the V ends on them, the tow ball and the shank should all be good still. You may only need the new head, trunnion sockets if worn and the DC. That may add up to a savings worth going in parts alone.

Here is one place I have bought many hitch parts from and had a positive experience on all purchases. Many times they offer free freight on over $150. And when your shipping a pile of steel, that can be a bit of savings. The sell the parts and complete hitch
Weight Distribution | etrailer.com

You can shop around too, just watch out on the freight.

Hope this helps and good luck

John

This. Right down to getting the grease on the pant leg, I can relate and echo 100%.

[pugman]

JohnB I fell out of my chair laughing so hard when you said "it seems the grease has a magnetic attractions to my pant legs." I been doing the baggy thing also every time I unhook.

[jpspaz]

I do grease it, but probably not as much as I should. It seems that the wear is all on the hitch head, bottom recess. Its created slack that affects the ability of trunnion bars to do their job. I'll see if I can get a picture or two. Everything is buried under two feet of snow at the moment. We got clobbered last weekend.

[suebobby]

Check out the classified ad posted by suebobby regarding selling our Blue OX hitch.

[jpspaz]

I shoveled a path to the trailer and took out the hitch for a couple of photos. As you can see, the bottom recess is more oval shaped than round. I don't have a new one to compare it to, but I believe it was perfectly round when new. Not a perfect scale measurement, but it's basically 1/4 inch longer from front to back.

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by pugman

JohnB I fell out of my chair laughing so hard when you said "it seems the grease has a magnetic attractions to my pant legs." I been doing the baggy thing also every time I unhook.

I left the part out about DW making certain pointed comments due to my magnetic attraction, ....

I must say it "was" bad in the beginning.... How the heck did I do that...

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by jpspaz

I shoveled a path to the trailer and took out the hitch for a couple of photos. As you can see, the bottom recess is more oval shaped than round. I don't have a new one to compare it to, but I believe it was perfectly round when new. Not a perfect scale measurement, but it's basically 1/4 inch longer from front to back.

H'mm, I don't seem to see the swedged metal I was looking for.

I'll check mine and report back. I have 4 Reese heads in the shed to compare with one only having about 100 miles on it. Have it set up for my Son's Expedition.

If yours is worn by 1/4" that will for sure change the WD. Even 1/2 of that would.

[jpspaz]

Thanks John. Whenever you get a chance.

[Hematite]

I, also, use grease on the trunnion swivels. The hitch is used on an equipment trailer and the Sunline. I actually like to use an old can of long fibre wheel bearing grease. Very sticky and extremely thick. Almost all the paint is still on the swivel points and I bought the hitch slightly used.

I clean off the grease and put fresh on every outing. And, yes, do NOT get it on your pants. Always keep a roll of towels in the back of the truck for that purpose. There is a LOT of pressure and stress on this part of the hitch.

[JohnB]

Hi Jpspaz,

I did some measuring today. Learned something new I did not realize before. The lower trunnion lug holes are not round. And they are different sizes depending on what vintage Reese hitch head you have.

I could not see enough of your hitch head pic to know which vintage you have. So here are the 2 vintages of the HP Trunnion bar head. Both have the same part number, Reese just changed the way they made them and some features.

The earlier vintage. This one came on the market in early 2,000's. Do not know the exact year, it was for sure being sold in 2003 as I have one.





This vintage was made from a 3 piece welded design. The U clamp part that goes around the shank is formed plate that is welded to an upper and lower forged trunnion mount. This vintage also has a lower height boss of metal where the tow ball goes. If you look close you can see the welds.

You can see the slot of the lower trunnion lug. I say slot as it is longer in the direction of the WD path then wide. It has a taper to match the WD bar lugs. The head in these pics was made 12-19-2005. It is a spare one for me as it matches the one I use on the T310SR. It was never used yet.

The lower trunnion lug measures 1 3/8" along the path of the WD at the top where the radius is a full contact metal to the WD lug.


And it measures 1 1/4" in the cross direction.


Here is the WD bar in it at lock up and the excess space


There is an extra 1/8" of air down at the taper contact point.




Next is the newer present day vintage. The date on this one is 6-25-09. This design came out around~ 2006. They were selling both for a while until inventory drew down and the 3 piece was phased out

You can see the 2 vintages next to each other. The newer one is all cast steel on left next to the 3 piece welded one on right


More views


And the higher raised boss area for the tow ball




You can see all the cast in patent numbers and no welds


This one has more length of slot in the lower trunnion. This head I measured my son uses and has about ~ 150 miles on it. It's not worn.

Measures 1 1/2" along the path of the WD bar, 1/8" longer then the 3 pieced welded head


Measure 1 1/4" cross wise. The lighting of the pic is a little deceiving where the inside edge is. Same as the 3 piece welded one.


Here is a close up


Here is the WD bar in with more clearance than the older vintage one




Measures 1/4" down where the taper starts. 1/8" more than the 3 piece head


Seeing this, it seems to line up with your dimensions on the 1 1/2" long which points to the 1 piece all cast steel head.

Are you sure there is wear in those lower pockets? you should see heavy burrs up top of the from the wear and I did not see that in your pics.

Now, tell me more about your need to take up chain links. If it is not trunnion wear it may be a few other things. Here are 2 of the more common ones

1. Increased tongue weight for more gear in the camper or increased truck bed weight, especially behind the rear axle closer to the back of the truck can affect needing an extra chain link taken up.

2. Your truck receiver may be having problems. Look for cracks in the welds and or a tell tail sign, a bent up pin box. The pin box is the 2 x 2 hole you put the shank in.

If you are taking up 1 chain link, you can unbolt the head and tilt the head back towards the TT. 2 teeth of head tilt will equal about 1 chain link of WD bar tension.

GM had a few problems with bending receivers from the model year 2000 to around 2007 ish. Ford had some in the 1/2 tons PU's and even Dodge and Toyota had some that I know of. The ones I know of came from folks towing TT's with WD. Not all of those brands had a problems in every receiver, but there where some. I found more GM ones.

Hope this helps

John

[jpspaz]

Wow thanks for that info John. I have the older style head with the welds. If the slots are designed to not be round then I'm not sure what the issue is. I'm glad I started this thread before spending money on a new hitch head.

Here's the basics of what has occurred. When we bought the trailer I was towing it with a brand new Nissan Armada. The hitch was set up by the dealer and I was on the second link I believe. Over the next couple of years I found that I had to increase the links to keep the attitude of the truck in check. I went up a link maybe once every two years. I am now on link 6. I suspected the issue was both wear on the hitch and wear on the truck suspension, although it was equipped with self leveling air shocks in the rear. Last year I replaced my truck with a new 2011 Armada. Basically minimal changes to the vehicle since 2005. I kept it on the same link and even tried to go up an additional one but it was too much tension.

Here's the caveat. I don't believe my trailer is overweight, especially in the front, but I have never actually weighed it. The trailer dry weight is about 6500. I figure an extra 1000 for gear and that's probably high. I usually have one full LP tank and never carry water in the tanks. Aside from about 400 of passenger weight, I don't carry a whole lot of cargo in the truck, maybe another 200 at the most. My truck has a 9000 lb rating. If it is not hitch wear, my new truck should be theoretically back at the old link setting right? Unless there is other wear that is not obvious. Any possibility the chains have stretched over time?

[jim44646]

Is the hitch height the same between the two vehicles? If head isn't adjusted to new vehicle, bar chain links will change.
Is there a chance the top bolt is loose allowing the head tilt to slip or strip a tooth? The changing tilt will make the chain adjustment change

[jpspaz]

Everything is tight. As for the hitch height, I never measured it but like I said, the trucks are exactly the same so I would expect the same hitch height.

[jim44646]

Check your tire sizes. I beleive they changed between 2005 to 2011. that could raise or lower your height

[JohnB]

Hi Jpspaz,

I'll be back on Tuesday night. Need to research something first to what might be your problem. I may see it but want to check a few things first.

Odds are very high, the chains are not stretching. Something else is moving.

Please tell me how many links under tension you have had and how many you had to move, again under tension? I cannot relate to the number of links free as every hitch may not have the same number of chain links to start with.

Is there a rating sticker on the receiver of your truck? or in the truck owners manual for what is the rating of the receiver in weight distributing mode?

Be back soon

John

[jpspaz]

Ill check the manual. As for the tire size, they offer different size rims but the larger rims use a lower profile tire so it all works out in the end.

[jpspaz]

I took another look at it John. If I don't count the bottom link that has the threaded ends on it, there are 6 links under tension. When the trailer was new it was 9 or possibly 10, I can't remember exactly. If it was 9, I moved three links tighter. I'm not sure if that's a big deal but it seemed odd to me. Again, I just figured it was some kind of wear. The sticker rating on the truck hitch says 10,000 lb max with 1,000 lb tongue weight max.

[JohnB]

Hi jpspaz

OK I'm trying to get the links part right and on what truck.

Originally Posted by jpspaz

Here's the basics of what has occurred. When we bought the trailer I was towing it with a brand new Nissan Armada. The hitch was set up by the dealer and I was on the second link I believe. Over the next couple of years I found that I had to increase the links to keep the attitude of the truck in check. I went up a link maybe once every two years. I am now on link 6. I suspected the issue was both wear on the hitch and wear on the truck suspension, although it was equipped with self leveling air shocks in the rear. Last year I replaced my truck with a new 2011 Armada. Basically minimal changes to the vehicle since 2005. I kept it on the same link and even tried to go up an additional one but it was too much tension.

Here's the caveat. I don't believe my trailer is overweight, especially in the front, but I have never actually weighed it. The trailer dry weight is about 6500. I figure an extra 1000 for gear and that's probably high. I usually have one full LP tank and never carry water in the tanks. Aside from about 400 of passenger weight, I don't carry a whole lot of cargo in the truck, maybe another 200 at the most. My truck has a 9000 lb rating. If it is not hitch wear, my new truck should be theoretically back at the old link setting right? Unless there is other wear that is not obvious. Any possibility the chains have stretched over time?

Originally Posted by jpspaz

I took another look at it John. If I don't count the bottom link that has the threaded ends on it, there are 6 links under tension. When the trailer was new it was 9 or possibly 10, I can't remember exactly. If it was 9, I moved three links tighter. I'm not sure if that's a big deal but it seemed odd to me. Again, I just figured it was some kind of wear. The sticker rating on the truck hitch says 10,000 lb max with 1,000 lb tongue weight max.

Trying to follow this and understand what was on each truck. Here goes

According the 2006 brochure, a T267SR has a dry tongue weight of 750#. Add battery 30#, the LP gas to put in the tanks, 63# and then out at the tongue this is around 83# for both. Or 750 + 83 =833# TW before any gear is added.

I'll estimate you have 150# of gear between the front cargo hole and anything in the closests next to the bed and over head. This weight out at the tongue this is approx 106# more.

And I estimate you have 50# of something under the bed which is 25# out at the tongue.

Add this up, 833+106+25 = 964# loaded TW estimate. Your floor plan has storage under the dinette and in the rear bath room. They may cancel each other out as far as TW. The gally is pretty much over the axles so that is weight neutral to the TW. The only way to know this for sure is to weigh the camper in a 3 step manner to get a loaded TW. It is always a shock what stuff weighs. You are only carrying it in at 10# and the most 20# at a time, but it all adds up.

So big picture, you could be just under the receiver rating or just over. We will hold that thought for now but I needed to see about what TW you might have in relation to the reviver rating.

Now to the number of links. If the dealer set it up with no camping gear, but they most likely had a battery installed and filled the LP tanks. So this is around 833# TW when they set it.

I forgot to ask what size WD bars you had. Are they 800# or 1,200#? If they are older bars they might be 1,000# bars as in the old days Reese did make some 1,000# trunnion style.

So if they set the WD on 833# TW on 1,200# bars at 9 links under tension, that is a starting point. Correct me on the bar size as this changes a lot if they are 800# bars.

"Assuming" they set the WD hitch to return the front of the truck to unhitched height, then adding gear to bring it up to 964#, well moving from 9 links under load to 6 is a fair amount links for only 131# of weight. That does not fit on 1,200# WD bars

Again confirm the WD bar size as this can explain a lot all by itself if they are 800# bars. Once I know that I'll fill in the rest of my estimate on what might be going on.

Since you started using the new 2011 truck have you had to take up any more links? Did it start at 6 under tension and now still at 6? Also approx how many towing miles has it been on the new truck?

I'm assuming the 9 to 6 links under tension was all on the older truck, right? Please confirm.

This much I can say, your hitch head does not show 1 to 2 links worth of wear from a 1,200# WD bar. 2 links is a fair amount of weight transfer and distance. The wear would be really big to cause 2 chain links worth.

With a little more info I can point to some "things" it might be for you to go check out.

Hope this helps.

John