Towing a 1981 15 1/2 SB w/ a 2018 Toyota Sienna XLE

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by 81SunlineTT

Thanks JohnB - I will give this a shot when I am back at the trailer. I found this picture of a tire (sorry it doesn't include the entire tire) that includes, hopefully enough, helpful information.

Your pics are good resolution and very clear. I could zoom in and see it was a 50psi tire.

Doing some digging, this is your tire https://sutongctr.com/tires/h180/

The brand is Hi Run, the LQ229 series is a bias trailer tire. The size ST175/80D13 load range C, will hold 1,360# at max cold pressure of 50psi.

The tire OD is 23.9".

Ideally radial tires are better for travel trailers doing longer distances. They run cooler. But, your tires are newish, not worn out or aged out which is what most cases require trailer tires to be changed is age. Five years on a ST tire is about it. Bias tires existed before radials ever came out, so unless you are thinking of doing lots of long distance, you can use them. Just make sure they are inflated to 50psi cold each time to go camping and make sure you do not exceed the weight ratings and do not exceed 65 mph on them other then a instant passing a vehicle as they are not rated for the heat above that speed. They should have a speed rating on the sidewall.

The next time you change tires, get the radial tire. I cannot speak to the brand of tire. When new tire time comes, come back and lets revisit brands.

One thing I did see in your pic, the circle marked in red on your fender well is a leak spot. Water will get into the camper in that area. Seal that area up soon. I suggest a product called Eternabond tape. Or Proflex RV caulk that touches both the siding and the fender well. Do not use silicone caulk, it is the wrong application for it.



Hope this helps

John

[81SunlineTT]

Originally Posted by JohnB

The good news, you have more axle then needed. The 3500# rating is common as the brakes are to. They are the 10" x 2 1/4" brakes. Just remember, the leaf springs are still what Sunline installed and your limiting weight requirement.

The told you the self adjusting type. Here is one of them https://www.easternmarine.com/nev-r-...bly-k23-468-00

The standard manual adjust are these. $22 cheaper, https://www.easternmarine.com/electr...and-k23-026-00

The price difference when you are talking all new, is not that much more, but it all does add up. I have the self adjusting on our big T310SR. They do work well/better as a electric drum brake can and keep the brake in proper adjustment all the time. We put enough miles on over enough years, it was a good move for us with our heavier camper.

Thanks JohnB. I started to look at easternmarine's website and, so far, their prices look quite a bit cheaper than etrailer's. Thanks for the link.

And also thanks for the explanation about self adjusting vs manual. That makes sense. Do you have any thoughts on a particular brand of brakes?

[81SunlineTT]

Originally Posted by JohnB

The brand is Hi Run, the LQ229 series is a bias trailer tire. The size ST175/80D13 load range C, will hold 1,360# at max cold pressure of 50psi.

The tire OD is 23.9".

Thanks for this JohnB - I will definitely put radials on when the time comes. I've been staying at 65 anyway, because it starts to sway at speeds faster than that, but now I have another reason to do so.

Originally Posted by JohnB

One thing I did see in your pic, the circle marked in red on your fender well is a leak spot. Water will get into the camper in that area. Seal that area up soon. I suggest a product called Eternabond tape. Or Proflex RV caulk that touches both the siding and the fender well. Do not use silicone caulk, it is the wrong application for it.

Also, thanks for this! I have several of these spots on the camper that need sealing and was going to do a separate posting to ask about these. I've been wondering how much work to do (pull off the siding, replace rotted pieces of wood, put everything back vs just sealing up exposed spots) and also wondering about products to use. This is super helpful!

[mainah]

If it sways add more weight forward.

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by 81SunlineTT

Thanks JohnB -

I took a look at the stickers on the driver's side pillar and here's what I've got:

Main Sticker:
GVWR: 5995lbs
GAWR: FRT 3100lbs with P235/60T17 Tires 17X7J Rims
GAWR: RR 3100lbs with P235/60R17 Tires 17X7J Rims

Tire Sticker:
Combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed 1290lbs

Extra Sticker:
Caution: modifications have been made to this vehicle reducing the original carrying capacity by 23lbs.

Thanks again!

This helps. Now you have a higher confidence of your empty van weight. Most times they include full fuel in that cargo/occupants number. This is a little long, but I am explaining it so you learn where all this is coming from to help in the future.

Following the door sticker cargo weight, 1,290# cargo/occupants - 23# of modifications = 1,267 # allowed cargo (CCC= combined cargo capacity) before reaching the GVWR on the van.

Van Empty GVW: 5,995 GVWR – 1,267 CCC = 4,728 # GVW (empty)

From your first post,

Originally Posted by 81SunlineTT

GCWR - 8900lbs
GTWR - 3500lbs
Unbraked TWR - 1000lbs

There will be about 430lbs of passengers and about 200lbs of gear in the towing vehicle when heading out to camp.

Van loaded to go camping GVW: 4,728 GVW empty + 430# passengers + 200# cargo + 75# WD hitch = 5,433# GVW (loaded)

Front & Rear axle weights when van is loaded and hitched to camper Here we have an issue. We know the rear axle weight limit, but we do not know the van empty weight or loaded weight estimate. I cannot find online the axle weight split between the front and rear axles for the curb weight. More on this later with a trip to the truck scales.

Camper loaded tongue weight We can create an estimate to see how close this creates an issue for the van.

The 81 sales brochure states a 15 1/2SB has a "dry" axle weight of 1,640# with a dry tongue weight of 160#.

The camper has an axle rating (GAWR) of 2,500#. Back in 1981, they rated campers by axle weight and not by GVWR like they do on the newer campers. In your case, the new axle/tires have excess capacity but the leaf springs are the weakest item as they look original in your pics. Also to keep in mind, one side may/will be heavier than the other as the camper is not built exactly even and where you cannot store cargo exactly equal left to right. Point being, watch out that each wheel weight does not exceed 1,250#. You can have a lighter side with a heavy side being the limiting factor and not be able to reach the full 2,500#.

You notice I talked about "dry" brochure weights. The dry weight estimate is the camper empty, with no LP gas in the tank, no battery mounted on the tongue, no added options and no prior owner modifications that could add weight.

Items like, crank down stabilizers, spare tire, awning, roof AC unit are options that add weight to the camper. Do you have any of them? Did a prior owner add anything that does not look original?

The 150# dry tongue estimate will grow by, 20# for LP gas in the tank + 45# for a group 24 battery = 215# on the tongue with no cargo inside or added options.

Camping gear, you mentioned this;

Estimated gear in the trailer: 300lbs

300# of camping gear is very light even though that may sound like a lot right now. The average amount of "stuff" a camper couple/small family adds is 1,000 to 1,200#. Yes, that much on a larger camper. In your case, the size of the camper may not allow that much, nor the 2,500# axle rating. By the brochures, 2,500# GAWR - 1,640 GAW = 860# total cargo on the axle so you have some room to add more.

Things like, leveling blocks to go under the wheels, tire chocks, an outdoor grill, flashlights, a mini repair kit, spare tire, etc. all add up and this is before food, clothes, cooking gear, plates, utensils, towels and the list goes on.

Yes, you could weight pinch yourself into 300# only added cargo. I used to be big into backpacking and 50# on my back and we could go 2 to 3 weeks without issues other than food drops we would get every so many days. But in a camper, sooner or later the weight adds up in a camper. It is always shocking when you weigh your camper, where did all the weight come from? Trust me I now. We all have camper weight gain...

You could be starting with 500 to 600# of cargo and that is a light amount for a small family. We can use that as a starting point to see how your van comes out.

Adding 600# cargo to the 1,640# GAW unloaded = 2,240# Loaded GAW If all the weight came out on the axle, which is normally does not, some of the cargo goes to the tongue weight. Let’s adjust this to 520# to the axle and 80# to the tongue. This would be 520# + 1,640# GAW unloaded = 2,160 GAW loaded

You also need to load the camper to have ideally 12 to 15% loaded tongue weight per trailer GVW to create good natural towing characteristics on the camper. 10% tongue weight per GVW is the bottom end and on a small TT, it is not advised as one wrong gear move and 10% can turn into 8% and sway can start given the right circumstances.

Starting with an estimated 215# tongue with battery and LP gas, then an additional estimated 80# from the 600# of cargo would be: 215 + 80 = 295 # loaded tongue weight. (again this is purely guesstimated, but very well can be)

295 TW + 2,160 loaded GAW = 2,455# Camper GVW. This estimate comes out with 12% TW. The lower end.

If we had more of the 600# cargo to the tongue, using 120# in place of 80#, or 40# more to the tongue, then that is a 335# tongue weight.

335 TW + 2,120 loaded GAW = 2,455 Camper GVW. This estimate comes out with 13.6% TW. A better TW to give some freedom to move an item or two.

Taking this one step more, and move another 40# forward to the tongue on the same 600# of cargo, that is 160# to the tongue 335 + 40 = 375 # tongue weight.
375 TW + 2,080# loaded GAW = 2,455 Camper GVW. This estimate comes out with 15.2% TW. The higher end of the weight and balance.

So by the above, you may have a varying tongue weight from 295 to 375# on the same 600# of estimated cargo. Let’s see how all this affects the van.

Your GCWR = 8,900#.

Camper & van loaded GCW 2,455 GVW camper + 5,433# GVW loaded van =7,888# GCW.
8,900 GCWR – 7,888# GCW = 1,012# of excess van pull rating.

Wind drag and frontal area of a travel trailer affects your van towing ability to pull the load beyond just the weight of the trailer. A 2,500 open utility/boat trailer tows a lot easier than a 2,500 # tall and wide trailer cargo due the lack of wind drag. Pickup trucks or other larger tow vehicles have limits that when you exceed the frontal area exposed to the wind, towing performance can be affected. In many cases, pickups can be rated at 60 sq. feet of frontal area. Many campers exceed that being 8 ft wide and 10 plus feet tall. Yours may only be 45 or 50 sq feet on a van, and I am not sure your minivan has this stated anywhere since they only tow lighter trailers, but the wind exposed to the front of your camper will tow harder then an open trailer of the same weight. Ideally you have would more reserve van pulling capacity. You will find this out when hills come your way. The good news, your camper is lower and narrower so that helps reduce the wind drag. End result, with 600# of cargo, you are close to your pulling limit, it will work, you will just notice it on the hills and the van works harder. For sure, make sure you have an auxiliary transmission cooler. You reported it was supposed to have one, just check as you are close the van pulling limit and high tranny heat comes with it. You may also notice I never compared anything to your van 3,500# GTWR. The GCWR is the true pull limit of the tow vehicle van regardless of where the weight comes from.

Van GVWR 5,995# - 5,433# GAW van = 562# reserve load capacity in the van. So this is good.

Van front axle GAWR-FRT. We know the limit is 3,100# GAWR, but we do not know the loaded front axle weight to compare it too. The front end normally is not normally an issue of being too heavy, but it can be too light and the front end slide too much.

Van rear axle GAWR-RR. We know the limit is 3,100# GAWR, but we do not know the loaded rear axle weight to compare it too. Odds are high, with a 295# to 375# hanging off the back of the van, the rear axle can be over its limit without using a WD hitch which will shift some weight back to the front of the van and some to the camper axle.

The estimated TW is about twice or more the tongue weight of towing the camper empty and the van maybe not loaded the same with people and cargo. How does it feel now?

The ideal way to solve the issue of not knowing the axle weights, take the camper and van to a set of truck scales and get it weighed. Suggest this, get your brakes sorted out first and upgrade them as they add weight to the camper. Fill the LP tank, put a battery in, put the spare tire on if it has one and with the camper close to empty, load the van with the must have weight inside and take a trip to the scales.

You need a loaded van, and the camper not yet fully loaded. The reason to not yet fully load it yet, is the rear axle on the van. If you put 300 to 600# of camping gear in now, it is very likely the rear axle will be into issues. I'm assuming you will tow it with the drawbar you have been towing it around with. The WD hitch is not yet in this weighing.

1.Front axle weight,
2.Rear axle weight,

3. Camper axle weight,
4. Camper tongue weight

Many truck scales have 3 scales on them to measure semi's. You can get weight 1,2 & 3 in one weighing on the scales.

To get weight 4, you will have to take a second weighing. Unhook the camper from the van, axle on one scale, tongue jack on 2nd scale, pull van off 2nd scale and take a weight.

This gives you a solid place to start. With actual axle weights then you know where you are starting from. The camper still is not all loaded, but you are a lot closer and we can better make a decision on the WD hitch and what size.

Once you know actual real weights you are starting from, then you can use a home scale to measure each item you are adding. You will know you can only load in the camper XX pounds before reaching the trailer axle weight limit. Loaded tongue weight can then be done at home too with either a Sherline tongue scale, or a less reliable method with a bath scale with certain home tongue scale method setup with levers. Can explain both more if wanted.

Once you know you need a WD hitch to not overload the van rear axle and improve van towing stability, then we can get into which is the right WD for your setup. (right sizing and fits right and not drag the ground)

Hope this helps

John

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by 81SunlineTT

Thanks JohnB. I started to look at easternmarine's website and, so far, their prices look quite a bit cheaper than etrailer's. Thanks for the link.

And also thanks for the explanation about self adjusting vs manual. That makes sense. Do you have any thoughts on a particular brand of brakes?

On the brand of trailer drum brake parts, Dexter is my first pick. Better quality, they stand behind their product, and they will help you when you call/write them.

Alko is also good, they are now owned by Dexter and I can see the two product lines intermixing.

I myself are not a fan of the low cost cloan's. Seen too many short cuts taken.

That said, shop around for quality parts. The aftermarket pricing is all over the map for the same brand and part. Just make sure you are getting genuine OEM parts.

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by 81SunlineTT

Thanks for this JohnB - I will definitely put radials on when the time comes. I've been staying at 65 anyway, because it starts to sway at speeds faster than that, but now I have another reason to do so.

Also, thanks for this! I have several of these spots on the camper that need sealing and was going to do a separate posting to ask about these. I've been wondering how much work to do (pull off the siding, replace rotted pieces of wood, put everything back vs just sealing up exposed spots) and also wondering about products to use. This is super helpful!

If your camper is starting to sway, that is a heads up, something is causing it and do not accept it. I agree with Mainah, first is to find out the TW percentage of the camper total GVW. If the TW is too low, the camper will have handling issues given certain conditions when the speed goes above 45pm. 45 mph is sort of a rule of thumb critical speed. An out of balance trailer can be Ok at 30 and then start to go wild above 45mph.

TW will not solve all issues, but it has to be right to start with. If 12 to 15% TW per GVW does not solve the problem, then there is a long list of other factors to drill down into.

As FYI, I myself with my big truck and camper, only target 60mph as a top towing speed when conditions allow it. Things can go wrong way too fast with higher speeds. Even at 60 mph it can be a handful when it all goes wrong. Your camping! Enjoy the travel.

On your camper sealing and what to fix and with what, those are great questions and topics. Ask away, but start a new post on just them and include pics of questionable areas.

John

[81SunlineTT]

Originally Posted by JohnB

You need a loaded van, and the camper not yet fully loaded. The reason to not yet fully load it yet, is the rear axle on the van. If you put 300 to 600# of camping gear in now, it is very likely the rear axle will be into issues. I'm assuming you will tow it with the drawbar you have been towing it around with. The WD hitch is not yet in this weighing.

1.Front axle weight,
2.Rear axle weight,

3. Camper axle weight,
4. Camper tongue weight

Many truck scales have 3 scales on them to measure semi's. You can get weight 1,2 & 3 in one weighing on the scales.

To get weight 4, you will have to take a second weighing. Unhook the camper from the van, axle on one scale, tongue jack on 2nd scale, pull van off 2nd scale and take a weight.

This gives you a solid place to start. With actual axle weights then you know where you are starting from. The camper still is not all loaded, but you are a lot closer and we can better make a decision on the WD hitch and what size.

Once you know actual real weights you are starting from, then you can use a home scale to measure each item you are adding. You will know you can only load in the camper XX pounds before reaching the trailer axle weight limit. Loaded tongue weight can then be done at home too with either a Sherline tongue scale, or a less reliable method with a bath scale with certain home tongue scale method setup with levers. Can explain both more if wanted.

Once you know you need a WD hitch to not overload the van rear axle and improve van towing stability, then we can get into which is the right WD for your setup. (right sizing and fits right and not drag the ground)

Hope this helps

John

Thanks for this JohnB - I'll get to some truck scales and take some measurements and report back - not before I get the brakes sorted out though!

[81SunlineTT]

Originally Posted by JohnB

On the brand of trailer drum brake parts, Dexter is my first pick. Better quality, they stand behind their product, and they will help you when you call/write them.

Alko is also good, they are now owned by Dexter and I can see the two product lines intermixing.

I myself are not a fan of the low cost cloan's. Seen too many short cuts taken.

That said, shop around for quality parts. The aftermarket pricing is all over the map for the same brand and part. Just make sure you are getting genuine OEM parts.

Thanks JohnB - sounds good! I've been on the phone with Dexter this week and last week trying to figure out the axle and hub I currently have so I can figure out which brakes/hubs to get. Per one of my previous posts they got me information on the axle and told me which brakes I needed but they needed the Dexter hub part number to tell me which hubs to purchase to go along with my brakes. I went back out to the trailer this past weekend to look for the hub number but could not find it. This afternoon I looked at some pictures of the Dexter hub I suspect I have (https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hub...e/84545BX.html) online and figured out that the number is on the back side of the hub on the spoke of the hub, so now, knowing exactly where to look, I'll check it out next time I'm with the trailer.

[81SunlineTT]

Originally Posted by JohnB

If your camper is starting to sway, that is a heads up, something is causing it and do not accept it. I agree with Mainah, first is to find out the TW percentage of the camper total GVW. If the TW is too low, the camper will have handling issues given certain conditions when the speed goes above 45pm. 45 mph is sort of a rule of thumb critical speed. An out of balance trailer can be Ok at 30 and then start to go wild above 45mph.

TW will not solve all issues, but it has to be right to start with. If 12 to 15% TW per GVW does not solve the problem, then there is a long list of other factors to drill down into.

As FYI, I myself with my big truck and camper, only target 60mph as a top towing speed when conditions allow it. Things can go wrong way too fast with higher speeds. Even at 60 mph it can be a handful when it all goes wrong. Your camping! Enjoy the travel.

On your camper sealing and what to fix and with what, those are great questions and topics. Ask away, but start a new post on just them and include pics of questionable areas.

John

Thanks JohnB/Mainah - I think I'll be able to settle this once I get some of those specific weights from the truck scale. As soon as I get those I'll post them here and we can do some math. Thanks again!

[JohnB]

Sounds like a plan.

Think of it this way, you are getting a full advanced learning course on trailer suspension and weights and balance.

Keep digging, you will sort this out.

[mainah]

My Tacoma is rated 6500# I would never try to pull that.

[81SunlineTT]

Originally Posted by 81SunlineTT

Thanks JohnB - sounds good! I've been on the phone with Dexter this week and last week trying to figure out the axle and hub I currently have so I can figure out which brakes/hubs to get. Per one of my previous posts they got me information on the axle and told me which brakes I needed but they needed the Dexter hub part number to tell me which hubs to purchase to go along with my brakes. I went back out to the trailer this past weekend to look for the hub number but could not find it. This afternoon I looked at some pictures of the Dexter hub I suspect I have (https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hub...e/84545BX.html) online and figured out that the number is on the back side of the hub on the spoke of the hub, so now, knowing exactly where to look, I'll check it out next time I'm with the trailer.

Ok, I didn't make it to the trailer this weekend but I went back through the pictures I'd taken a few weeks ago and found this gem.



If you click on it and go to the original, full resolution version, you can see that it says DEXTER and 8-248 on the spines on the back side of the hub. Those numbers take me to this on etrailer.com:

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hub.../8-248-50.html

Am I correct in saying that I could purchase the following Dexter hubs:

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hub.../84546UC3.html

and they would fit the axle I currently have and the brakes Dexter told me I could get (K23-468-00) (https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...le/23-468.html).

Thanks!

[JohnB]

Hi,

I followed your trail to Etrailer, there are a few things, good and then 1 big unknown.

The good.

The tapered roller bearing race and bearing numbers align between the brake drum and the non brake hub. Most likely due to the same 3,500# weight rating.

The big unknown,

The E trailer specs call out this, on the brake drum.

This hub-and-drum assembly fits 3,500-lb axles with #84 spindles.

The key point being #84 spindles.

Etrailer does not talk about what spindle shaft the non brake hub goes with. And that spindle number may be what will not work between a non brake spindle and a brake drum spindle.

I myself have never converted a non brake axle to a brake axle to know if the spindles are the same. But this is what needs to be checked and confirm.

When you order a new brake axle tube, they must have 2 dimensions.

1. Centerline of axle seat left to right. The axle seat is what the leaf springs mount to.

2. Machined hub wheel face to face, left to right. This is from brake drum machined surface to surface. The trailer frame, hangers and wheel wells are setup to accept the wheel/tire to be in the correct spot and accommodate the brakes.

A non brake axle has no brake shoes and in this case, 2 1/4" wide brake shoes for a 3,500# axle. While it has inner and outer bearing are the same, there does not need to be room for that 2 1/4" brake shoe on a non brake axle. Point: Is the distance between the bearings on a non brake hub the same as on a brake axle drum and is the distance from the brake mounting plate to the inner bearing correct?

See here on a 3,500# brake axle off a Sunline camper, tandem axles in this case, but still a 3,500# drop axle with brakes. Look at how long the spindle is between the bearings? That is an no. 84 spindle.



Here is a few other views, just not from the top down.

The Right side of the camper. Meaning auto passenger side or camper door side. Notice the brake magnet arm location.




The left side of the camper. Auto driver side or camper non door side.


I posted those pics for 2 reasons,

1. Make sure you put the right side brakes on the right side of the camper and the left side brake on the left side of the camper. They do not work well if put on backwards

2. To look at the distance from the brake plate mounting plate to the end of the axle spindle.

Main point: If the your non brake axle has the wrong length spindles, they may not work with the brakes as a brake axle needs a no. 84 spindle.

That may be why Dexter could not tell you for sure if the brakes will work on your axle, and the axle numbers did not line up. I'm not sure if they will.

If you totally strike out, I have a Sunline project camper with 3,500# axles and brakes. I can pull a wheel and measure the axle spindle from the brake plate mounting surface to where the inner bearing bottoms out on, the distance between bearings in the brake drum, the end of the spindle so your can check if your axle will accommodate a brake drum. You can then compare them to what you have and see if it will work. You just have to pull the hub off and measure.

Hope this helps

John

[mainah]

It seems kind of strange that Dexter would have two different spindles and bearing setups for the same weight axle it would make for a greater parts inventory. The only real difference in the backing plates is the bell crank for the magnite they are right and left the rest is mirror image so yeah they can be put on the wrong side, the smaller brake shoe all ways faces forward that makes them self energizing. I think this may get you to tech support, https://www.dexteraxle.com/contact-us/contact-form.

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by mainah

It seems kind of strange that Dexter would have two different spindles and bearing setups for the same weight axle it would make for a greater parts inventory.

I agree on one spindle fits all, just it is unknown, so far.

I did some digging and found this on the Dexter site.

PDF page 26, catalog page 25 shows the parts breakout for a D35 axle which is the 3,500# axle. Again, assuming he had a 3,500# axle.
https://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defa...rsn=5cdb1548_4

They show the brake drums and the hubs for a non brake axle, just they do not exactly callout the spindle. I would say there is "hope" the spindle is the same since his has the bolt on flange for the brake plate.

I could not find a cross section of the brake setup showing how all the bearings and drum fit to compare to a non brake hub. Those side by side in scale would solve a lot of unknowns right about now.

[JohnB]

Here is a non braked Dexter #84 spindle kit. No brake flange but the spindle diameter may be the the same.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axle-Kit-84...-/171661849478

A Tru Ryde # 84 drop spindle for a brake axle on Etrailer.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Spi...e/TRU87FR.html

These look close on the bearing setup, wonder why Dexter would not answer his question early on if they only have one spindle bearing setup for brake and non brake???

[81SunlineTT]

Originally Posted by JohnB

Hi,

I followed your trail to Etrailer, there are a few things, good and then 1 big unknown.

The good.

The tapered roller bearing race and bearing numbers align between the brake drum and the non brake hub. Most likely due to the same 3,500# weight rating.

The big unknown,

The E trailer specs call out this, on the brake drum.

The key point being #84 spindles.

Thanks JohnB. This is a huge help.

I talked to Dexter this afternoon and gave them the hub number (8-248 ). They told me I could install the following hub with my axle/spindles: K08-247-94. They also stated those hubs would work with the self adjusting brakes they'd previously recommended (K23-468-00 and K23-469-00).

This is the same hub I'd speculated would work in my previous post (https://www.etrailer.com/p-84546UC3-EZ.html).

Based on JohnB's previous post, I pushed the Dexter customer service rep on the phone to confirm that this brake hub would fit on the spindle currently installed on my axle. She assured me it would, but I'm still planning to remove the wheel and hub that I currently have on my axle and take some pictures/measurements before making the more than $350 purchase.

I'll keep you all posted. Thanks, as always, for all the help!

[mainah]

My guess here is it's not an axle that had no brakes what did they weld a flange to hold a backing plate for brakes? If they did why would it be different than the other brakes?