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10-31-2009, 07:35 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 40
SUN #811
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Sunline upgrade
Just recently I had to give up on my older 1986 Sunline Satellite. It was going to require a lot of repair to the water system and the fridge. Plus the idea of actually pulling this old trailer across the country did not seem practical given the tires, brakes etc.
But being a Sunline owner I am always on the look out for similar trailers. So Just recently I found and purchased a 1995/96 Solaris T2670
(S/N 1LC2S2M2222TD265143 for tracking purposes).
Very good condition, very clean and something I can see pulling out west and down south.
My question is related to the preferred WDH and anti Sway hitch most of you prefer. Are there clear favorites for a trailer this size? I'll be hauling with a 4.7 Ram 1500.
Anyone with a favorite Brake Controller?
Thanks very much
Al
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10-31-2009, 07:49 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 221
SUN #28
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thats a great floor plan I had a 2002 2670 t and loved it but wanted a slide out , as far a brake p3 all the way , check e-bay best prices around Dan
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Dan
05 T264sr /00 Ford Excursion 6.8 v10
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10-31-2009, 07:52 PM
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#3
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Hi Al,
It is a 1996 model. Thanks for the VIN.
My favorites are the Reese HP Dual Cam for the hitch and Tekonsha Prodigy for the TBC.
For your trailer I'd guess you'd need a 1000# DC. It's hard to say what style (round or trunnion) would be better, maybe the round style would so the bars wouldn't be as close to the ground when in the cams. However, getting a trunnion would save you a little money down the road should you want to upgrade to a larger SR coach because your head will work still, you'd just need heavier bars. The largest weight round bars are only 1000#
The Prodigy is a good proportional control. Now the prices are coming down on them because the P3 is the top of the line, and the only thing it really gains you is the ability to haul a 4 axle trailer and haul one with hydraulic brakes. It also gives you a computer type screen with brake diagnosis, whereas the screen on the Prodigy will only tell you the output level. Really, any proportional brake controller is good. Avoid the time based ones...they need constant resetting and aren't good in emergency situations, not to mention they're horrible on slippery roads (pretty much any one will, but a time based will lock a wheel easier). The proportional will also respond faster whereas a time based will take a few seconds to get up to full operating level.
Jon
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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11-01-2009, 01:07 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 1,846
SUN #264
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Prodigy is the best bargain out there right now in the way of brake controllers. If your truck has the factory towing package with pigtail under the dash, get the matching pigtail with the controller. It's plug and play after you mount the controller.
Reese WD and Dual Cam is the way to go as Jon advised.
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'12 F250 4x4 Super Duty PowerStroke 6.7 diesel
2011 to present: '11 Cougar 326MKS
1999 to 2011: '99 Sunline T-2453
SUN264 * Amateur Radio kd2iat monitoring 146.52
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11-01-2009, 07:46 PM
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#5
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Hi Al
Both the Reese DC and the Equal-I-zer brand (Made by Progress Mfg) are good hitches as part of an effective anti sway program. They are both in the league of ultra high friction hitches. And both have pros and cons to each of them just on how that are made.
The Reese DC when used with a HP Trunnion bar hitch head can accept 600, 800, 1200,1500 and 1700 # WD bars. The DC and the snap up brackets can all handle those weights. The hitch shank may/will need to changed when you approach the 1500 and 1700 # range. The HP hitch head also gives fine resolution of hitch head tilt all the way to 15 degree rear tilt. This helps when dialing in the hitch. This give you more choices for this TT and any one you buy in the future. If needed you can upgrade just the bars as needed. I myself have the Reese HP Trunnion bar hitch with the DC and it is a good sound hitch.
If you look at the Reese round bar WD hitch, it to is good WD hitch but has drawbacks to the hitch head and WD bars when using it with a DC. If you can Reese, go HP trunnion bar hitch. I myself would not buy the Reese round bar head to use with a DC. Every one I have helped setting theirs up cannot tilt the head back as much as they would like to have. The round bar can only tilt back about 7 degrees and that is a problem sometimes.
The Equal-I-zer by Progress Mfg (make sure it is that brand) is also a good hitch. It comes in several sizes and can accommodate up to a 1,400# tongue weight when properly selected. Reports from fellow campers who have had both report very similar results from each. The actual TT and TV play a role in the comparison as well, however there is not a lot of significant performance between the 2.
The Cons of the Reese DC is the DC hangs down further then the Equal-I-zer below the TT frame. If you have a low riding TT that is less then 12 1/2” from bottom of A frame to the ground, this can create a dragging problem of the DC. That 12 1/2 dim I stated gives about 5 1/2" ground clearance. I do not know the ball height or bottom of the frame to the ground on that 96 T2670. Do you?
If you are in the 12 1/2” bottom of A frame to the ground, In this case the Equalizer will mount better. This low 12 1/2" dim comes generally on small TT's (5,500# GVWR or less most times) or large cargo trailers with really large 8" wide A frames. Yours is a 7,000# GVWR TT so it may not even be in this low riding range.
The Cons of the Equal-I-zer is the WD bar size if you need to change the hitch. When you buy a certain size hitch, say rated at 1,000#, that is the size the entire hitch is good for. If you find you bought a hitch too small, you have to re-buy the entire hitch, you can’t upgrade just the WD bars. They offer 400, 600, 1,000, 1,200 and 1,400# hitches. So now and in the future that hitch may have to just sell with the TT.
There are small operating differences between the 2 in how they create there high friction. It's a real debate in this small difference area which one is better. Both are good!
Both hitches will not solve an unbalanced TT or a TV that has soggy tires or is loaded over the capacity of the TV. Since you have a 1500 truck, and a good truck I might add, it may be limited to a certain size tongue weight in WD mode on the receiver. This has been corrected in some cases by an upgrade to an after market receiver, however again the rear axle of the 1500 can only hold so much weight. The 96 catalog shows a dry, non loaded T2670 as having a 490# tongue weight on 4,390# of dry camper weight. That is 11% dry tongue weight. When you load the camper try can get the % tongue up in the 13% area per loaded GVW. Estimating 1,000 # of camping gear like most camping folks, that would be about 5400# loaded and a 702# tongue weight at 13%. The better towing stability tongue weights are in the 13 to 15% range.
Ideally you can weigh the tongue and camper loaded or at least empty to verify the weights before buying a WD hitch. That is not always possible so you have to estimate.
Either the Reese trunnion bar or the Equal-I-zer will serve you well and both have in’s and outs of set up that must be understood. So which ever you get, research and read up on it on how to set it up, balance out your TT correct and TV. It will not all happen over night and will be a progression from new empty TT to fully loaded TT as the setup changes with TT loading and Truck bed weight.
Something else you are going to have to sort thru is what truck receiver ratings do you have? If you find that the receiver is only good for 1,000# in weight distributing mode and you are in the 12 1/2 to 13” bottom of TT frame to the ground range, then the Equal-I-zer 1,000# WD hitch may fit your application better.
Need to know a little more about the actual TT and your truck receiver to hone in on a Reese 800# Trunnion system or a Equa-I-zer 1,000# system. If your loaded tongue weight will be over the 800#, then the next Reese jump in trunnion is 1,200 and that be more then your receiver can handle.
Hope this helps
John
PS I fully agree with Steve and Jon. Do not get a time based brake controller for a TT if you have a choice. The Priodgy is common and is proportional.
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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11-02-2009, 09:54 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 40
SUN #811
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John, thank you very much for your very detailed response. I'll be gathering the necessary Trailer weight information as soon as I get the trailer back home. Currently the trailer does have a Reese WD setup, I'm uncertain just what model it is actually, it is a type with the chain adjustments. I have the bars as well but lack the head and shank as they stayed with the owner. I want to make sure I have the best possible setup so if necessary will replace whatever is there now and go with new.
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11-02-2009, 10:46 AM
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#7
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Hi Al
It sounds like the camper is coming home. Great, good for you.
When you get it home then this is easier to point and talk. If you can take some pics and post of what the hitch parts you have, we can generally tell from the pics what vintage Reese you have. And then we can give you some options to think thru.
And you can measure up for frame sizes to see how that will all work out.
When you get to that point, start up a new post in the Towing section here on Sunline Club. That way for future someone coming behind you can find your post as we talk about hitches etc in that forum.
This RV forum is more for motorized campers like Motorhomes. Many of us read all posts so we can find you, but everyone may not.
Good luck. New to you campers are always good times.
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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11-02-2009, 01:55 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 40
SUN #811
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I'll do that John. Sorry about the wrong location for this post, just noticed it was for motorhomes. I'll start a new one on the trailer forum.
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11-02-2009, 04:05 PM
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#9
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dryflie
I'll do that John. Sorry about the wrong location for this post, just noticed it was for motorhomes. I'll start a new one on the trailer forum.
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Seems like one ouf our handy moderators already took care of moving the post. It's in the towing forum now!
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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11-02-2009, 04:07 PM
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#10
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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__________________
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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