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Old 03-08-2015, 12:25 PM   #1
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
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SUN #3392
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measureing for correct shank

I got a new truck that sits higher than my old truck so now I need a new drop shank. From what I been reading I came up with this so if anybody could tell me if I got it wright or wrong let me know. From ground to top of truck recever is 19" from ground to the inside top of trailer coupler is 18.5" hitch ball is 3" so I came up with.

coupler 18.5"-ball 3"=15.5
truck 19"-15.5"=3.5"drop

I'm using a reese with trunnion bars.
Would this be the shank I need ? Reese Weight Dist Shank - Drop Only - 14" Long - 4-3/4", 6-1/2" Drop - 1,500 lbs TW Reese Accessories and Parts RP63971

2003 T2499
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Old 03-09-2015, 02:56 PM   #2
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Sorry, but your numbers are making my eyes glaze over.

You need to allow for the 2499's heavy tongue to compress the truck's suspension and that depends on how heavy a truck you have. The top of the hitch/base of the ball could be about the same height as the lip on the coupler. Or, the top of the ball needs to be 1-2" higher than the top of the coupler. Get a shank that has some room for adjustment within these measurements and you should be able to make it fit.

2019 F150 3.5L Max Tow
2015 Silverado 1500 NHT
2014 Arctic Fox 22G
2005 Sunline T-2499
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Old 03-09-2015, 05:16 PM   #3
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Ok so I go 1-2" above coupler to make up for truck squat that would give me just a 1.5-2.5 drop instead of the 3.5" drop. I think I got it now.
2003 T2499
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Old 03-10-2015, 09:42 PM   #4
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Hi Steve,

I do this by drawing a hand sketch diagram of the parts and the requirements and then you can see what you need.

Henry is right on about truck squat. To add to truck squat is bed weight. The question to answer for the truck is, with the truck bed loaded to go camping (lowers rear end), then what is it from ground up to the top of the 2" square hole?

Then for truck squat,
- The ball needs to be above the camper coupler on the T2499 when TT is level.
- Figure the tow ball needs to be approx 1" 1/4" to 2" higher for a 1/2 ton, 1" to 1 1/2 for 3/4 - 1 ton.

When you hitch up and set the WD on the truck, the back of the truck will be lower (squat) and the camper comes out level or slight nose down.

Like this, Trucked loaded, camper level, unhitched

The tow ball itself is in the middle of the mix. A hi rise tow ball like in the pic above the changes the relationship over a standard tow ball. Which do you have?

Hi rise on left, standard height on right

3 3/8" is the difference on a standard ball from the top of the hitch head ball mount up to the top of the 2" shank in the truck.

If you want, I can figure this out for you but need this.

If you post a few pics of the Reese hitch you I can tell what you have and what are the shanks you have now. If you have Reese PN's on the shanks tell me them.

Then load the truck with what ever gear you are going camping with (to lower the truck) and tell us ground up to top inside of the 2" sq hole inside the receiver.

We know the T2499 has a ball height of 18 to 18 1/2" when level.

If you want to do this yourself, see here some pics of others I have helped which may be of some help to you.

And this one, hi rise setup. This is a large camper with a 23" ball height, a 1 ton truck (GM), and the larger 2 1/2" shank. Same concept just compensate for the 2 1/2 shank

And this one on a Trailblazer

My 2004 T2499 on my 2003 K2500 Suburban

This link will take you to the Reese WD hitch catalog. A 4meg pdf download

Page D-18 has their shanks.

Notice the one you picked has no holes through the 2" shank section, your holes start below the 2" shank. That may or may not be an issue. Cannot tell yet from your numbers.

Hope this helps

Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

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